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Thailand - Pattaya and Koh Chang

Part 1/3 – 5 Weeks through Thailand, Central Vietnam & Singapore · 03/2026

Por Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

26 de July de 2026

Welcome

This travel story is separated in three parts, use the links below to the other parts

--> This is Part 1: Thailand - Pattaya and Koh Chang

--> Go to Part 2: Central Vietnam

--> Go to Part 3: Singapore

Motivation - Why to Go?

Every trip needs a good excuse. This one comes with two. While planning a journey through central Vietnam and Singapore, a stopover in Thailand fits perfectly. My retired father lives there, and it also gives me the chance to revisit Ko Chang, one of my favorite islands from a trip back in 2000.

Back then, Koh Chang felt wonderfully untouched. I stayed in a simple bamboo hut just a few meters from a beautiful white sand beach and paid what would probably buy half a cocktail today.

Of course, I expect things to have changed. Twenty-five years is a long time in tourism. Somewhere along the way, the world discovered Koh Chang, and beachfront bamboo huts likely became beachfront resorts.

Still, returning after a quarter of a century is part of the adventure. I’m curious to see what has changed, and whether the island has managed to keep some of the laid-back charm that made me fall in love with it in the first place.

Climate and best travel time

Climate and Best Travel Time

Both Pattaya and Ko Chang have a tropical climate with warm temperatures year-round. The most popular travel season is from November to February, when the weather is slightly cooler and drier. I visited in March, which offers plenty of sunshine and fewer crowds, but also noticeably higher temperatures. Especially during midday, the heat can be intense. For me, March proves to be a good compromise: great beach weather, mostly dry days, and enough opportunities to cool off in the sea, a swimming pool, or with an ice-cold drink.

Facts and Figures

Size: ~513,120 sq. km (≈ 1.3 × Germany)
Population: ~71 million (2025 estimate)
Capital and biggest city: Bangkok, ~10–11 million inhabitants in the metropolitan area
Ethnic groups: Thai ~85–90 %, ethnic Chinese ~10–12 %, Malay ~3–4 % (southern regions), Khmer and various hill tribes
Languages: Thai (official national language) and some Regional dialects
Currency:
Thai Baht (THB)

Thailand in one Sentence and 4 Fun Facts

A diverse and geographically varied country stretching from mountainous northern regions to tropical southern islands, known for its mix of modern cities, ancient temples, beach destinations, and a deeply rooted everyday street culture centered around food, markets, and scooters.

1. The “Land of Smiles” isn’t just marketing

Thailand is often called the Land of Smiles, and while it sounds like tourism slogan fluff, it actually reflects a cultural norm. Smiling is used in many everyday situations, not just for happiness, but also to avoid confrontation, embarrassment, or awkwardness. Even getting mildly lost or confused can still be accompanied by a polite smile.

2. Bangkok’s full name is a world record

The full ceremonial name of Bangkok is 168 letters long. It’s so long that even Thai people don’t memorize it in full for daily use. If cities had LinkedIn profiles, Bangkok would definitely be the one with a biography nobody finishes reading.

3. Scooters are basically a national organ system

In Thailand, scooters are not just transport, they are infrastructure. Entire families, pets, ladders, food deliveries, and occasionally what looks like an entire living room move around on two wheels. Traffic rules exist… but more as a suggestion system.

4. There are over 40,000 temples (and counting)

Thailand is home to more than 40,000 Buddhist temples (wats), ranging from tiny jungle shrines to massive golden complexes. No matter where you are, there is always a temple nearby, sometimes beautifully serene, sometimes squeezed between 7-Eleven and a noodle shop.

Itinerary

Day 1-4 - Pattaya
Day 4-8 - Koh Chang
Day 8-26 - Vietnam (see details in the Vietnam part)
Day 26-30 - Singapore (see details in the Singapore part)

Arrival

The 11.5-hour flight to Singapore with Singapore Airlines passes surprisingly quickly. The Airbus A350 offers generous legroom, and I even manage to get a few hours of sleep. The reward for waking up early is a spectacular sunrise outside the window. Towering thunderclouds stretch across the horizon, illuminated by flashes of lightning deep inside them, a reminder that sometimes the best in-flight entertainment happens outside the aircraft.

A five-hour layover at Changi Airport hardly feels like waiting. The three terminals, connected by the Skytrain, are filled with gardens, tropical greenery, and inviting places to sit. Despite being one of the world’s busiest airports, it never feels crowded, and even the food and drinks are reasonably priced. It’s easy to see why Changi remains one of my favourite airports.

The final 2.5-hour flight to Bangkok is equally uneventful. Thailand now requires a free online arrival card, which can be completed up to three days before arrival. Immigration is efficient, and from touchdown to collecting our luggage takes barely half an hour. A Bolt ride later, we are on our way to Pattaya, reaching the city about ninety minutes later, the journey has finally begun.

Pattaya

Pattaya - More Than its Reputation

While Pattaya is famous for its vibrant nightlife, shopping, and endless entertainment, neighboring Jomtien offers a much calmer atmosphere. Just a few kilometers away, the wide beach, relaxed cafés, and slower pace make it a popular choice for families, couples, and long-term visitors.

Our bungalow in Jomtien is simple, spotless, and only a two-minute walk from the beach. The small pool quickly becomes our favourite retreat, offering a welcome escape from the midday heat over the next couple of days.

Before the day comes to an end, we meet my father for a welcome drink at one of the relaxed beach bars. As the sun disappears, we take a leisurely stroll through the nearby night market, soaking up the familiar sights, sounds, and aromas of Thailand. After a long day of travelling, it doesn’t take much convincing before we call it a night.

The day begins with the simple plan of taking a walk along Jomtien Beach. We don’t make it very far. After just a couple of hundred metres, the tempting aroma from a busy local soup stall draws us in. A steaming bowl of noodle soup costs only 50 baht and tastes every bit as good as the crowd around us suggests.

A little farther along the promenade, another stop becomes inevitable. We settle down with a coconut-infused coffee and watch Sunday morning unfold. Families stroll along the beachfront, vendors prepare for the day, and locals enjoy an unhurried breakfast.

Eventually, we continue our walk, passing the elegant Wat Mai Hat Krathung Thong. Its golden roofs and intricate details provide a peaceful contrast to the lively beachfront just a few steps away. After exploring the temple grounds, we head back to the hotel, where the pool once again proves to be the perfect refuge from the afternoon heat.

In the evening, we treat ourselves to dinner at MAYs, one of Jomtien’s highly rated restaurants. Alongside Thai classics such as papaya salad, tom kha gai, and chicken cashew, we enjoy crispy spring rolls and try a refreshing pomelo salad for the first time. Every dish is beautifully presented and full of flavour, making it one of the culinary highlights of our stay, although not a cheap one.

Later, we hop onto one of the public jeeps that shuttle between Jomtien and Pattaya for just 10 baht per person. Within minutes, the relaxed beach atmosphere gives way to the bright lights and constant buzz of Pattaya. We wander through the lively streets before reaching the famous Walking Street, where neon lights, loud music, and countless bars create one of Thailand’s best-known nightlife districts. It is fascinating to experience, even if simply as an observer, before we return to the much calmer atmosphere of Jomtien.

Walking Street – Neon Lights and Uncomfortable Realities

As darkness falls, Pattaya undergoes a remarkable transformation. Walking Street, a one-kilometre stretch along the waterfront, closes to traffic and fills with a constant stream of visitors. Neon signs compete for attention, music pours out of every doorway, and the entire street becomes a spectacle of flashing lights and sensory overload.

We slowly make our way through the crowds. Bars spill onto the pavement, street performers entertain passing tourists, and seafood restaurants compete with countless nightclubs for customers. It is loud, chaotic, and strangely fascinating, a place unlike anywhere else I have visited.

Yet after the first wave of excitement, another side of Walking Street becomes impossible to ignore.

Outside almost every bar, young women greet passers-by with practiced smiles, inviting them inside. Others dance on brightly lit stages or sit with customers over drinks. The atmosphere appears carefree, but the repetition of the same scenes, bar after bar, gradually changes my perspective. What initially feels like entertainment increasingly resembles a workplace built around attracting attention.

Many of the women come from poorer regions of Thailand, where opportunities are limited and supporting family members is often a strong motivation for seeking work here. While some choose this profession because it offers better earnings than other available jobs, that choice is rarely made in a vacuum. Economic necessity, family expectations, and limited alternatives all shape the decisions behind the smiles.

The contrast is striking. Most customers are foreign men with financial means far beyond those of the women serving them. In this environment, companionship has become part of the local economy, and personal interaction is often reduced to a commercial transaction. It is a dynamic that raises uncomfortable questions about tourism, inequality, and the invisible forces that sustain places like this.

Walking Street is undoubtedly one of Pattaya’s most famous attractions, and experiencing it offers a glimpse into a side of Thailand that many visitors come to see. But beyond the neon lights and booming music lies a far more complex reality. The people behind the flashing signs are not part of the attraction, they are individuals navigating circumstances that most visitors will never fully understand.

As we leave the crowds behind and return to the quieter streets of Jomtien, the contrast feels almost surreal. The bright lights fade into the distance, but the questions they raise linger much longer.

The Sanctuary of Truth – Pattaya’s Unexpected Masterpiece

I join my dad on his daily morning walk, which begins at the rather uncivilized hour of 5:45 a.m. He is genuinely surprised to see me at the meeting point, clearly convinced that I would still be recovering from the previous evening. Normally, he would have been right. But curiosity wins this time. I want to see what Pattaya looks like before the neon lights give way to daylight.

As it turns out, we are anything but alone. The promenade is already buzzing with walkers, joggers, cyclists, and fitness enthusiasts who apparently consider sunrise the ideal time to exercise. Meanwhile, I am still trying to convince my body that being awake before 6 a.m. is a reasonable life choice. At least the pleasantly cool morning air makes the experience surprisingly enjoyable.

Later, we head to the Sanctuary of Truth, one of the very few places around Pattaya that doesn’t involve bars, loud music, or someone trying to sell you something every five seconds.

The first impression is spectacular. This gigantic wooden temple rises directly from the coastline, covered from top to bottom with incredibly detailed carvings. From a distance, it already looks impressive. Up close, it becomes almost absurd how much work has gone into it.

The entire structure is built from wood and decorated with thousands of hand-carved figures illustrating Buddhist and Hindu mythology, along with philosophical ideas about life, humanity, and the universe. Even more impressive is the fact that construction never really seems to end. Skilled craftsmen are still carving and restoring parts of the temple, which makes it feel like the world’s most beautiful never-ending home improvement project.

I have to admit, I liked the Sanctuary of Truth far more than I expected. Pattaya has a reputation for rather different kinds of attractions, so finding a place dedicated to art, philosophy, and spirituality feels almost like discovering a library in the middle of a theme park. If there’s one place that genuinely surprised me here, this was it.

The Sanctuary of Truth Museum, Pattaya, Thailand

After a visit to my dad’s home, we head again to the night market. This time, we join the queue for the legendary Pad Thai from Mr. Boom. Legendary is no exaggeration; we end up waiting for almost 30 minutes, and by the time we finally get our food, the line has grown even longer.

So, was it worth the wait? Well… yes and no.

The Pad Thai is genuinely excellent, and watching Mr. Boom prepare each portion with impressive speed and precision is part of the entertainment. The man clearly knows what he’s doing. On the other hand, standing in line for half an hour just to eat street food feels slightly ironic. Isn’t street food supposed to be quick, cheap, and effortless? Apparently not when everyone in Pattaya has exactly the same dinner plans.

Koh Chang

Koh Chang – Returning After Twenty-Five Years

I’ve booked a minibus transfer (€25 per person) that takes us all the way to Koh Chang. Right on schedule, we leave at 10:30 a.m. and settle in for the journey east.

Including a short wait for the ferry, it takes about six and a half hours to reach our hotel. It’s not exactly a thrilling road trip, there are only so many palm trees and petrol stations one can admire, but the transfer is comfortable, hassle-free, and considerably easier than piecing together buses, taxis, and ferries on our own. Sometimes, paying a little extra is simply worth preserving what’s left of your holiday mood.

About Ko Chang

Located in the eastern Gulf of Thailand near the Cambodian border, Koh Chang, literally “Elephant Island”, is Thailand’s second-largest island after Phuket. It is part of the protected Mu Ko Chang National Park and is renowned for its rainforest-covered mountains, waterfalls, mangrove forests, and long sandy beaches.

Unlike many of Thailand’s more heavily developed islands, Koh Chang has retained a relatively relaxed and natural atmosphere. Most hotels, restaurants, and tourist facilities are concentrated along the west coast, where beaches such as White Sand Beach, Klong Prao Beach, and Kai Bae Beach offer a wide range of accommodation, dining, and nightlife. The island’s eastern coast remains quieter and far less developed.

Beyond its beaches, Koh Chang offers numerous outdoor activities, including hiking, kayaking, snorkeling, diving, and boat trips to the nearby islands of Ko Mak and Ko Kut. Inland, several waterfalls, most notably Klong Plu Waterfall, provide welcome opportunities to cool off after exploring the tropical rainforest.

With its combination of beautiful beaches, lush landscapes, and a laid-back atmosphere, Koh Chang is an excellent destination for travelers seeking a more tranquil alternative to Thailand’s busiest island resorts.

The Sol Beach Resort is one of those places where it’s remarkably easy to slip into island mode. It is by far the most expensive accommodation of our trip, but for once, it actually feels worth the splurge. Instead of oversized hotel blocks and crowded pools, the resort offers a relaxed, intimate atmosphere with wooden bungalows, tropical gardens, and the constant sound of waves providing the soundtrack.

Our beach bungalow turns out to be an excellent choice. Just a few steps from the sand, it features a lovely veranda that quickly becomes our favorite spot, for morning coffee, an afternoon break, or simply staring at the sea while accomplishing absolutely nothing. It’s surprisingly satisfying.

To explore the island over the next few days, we rent scooters from Sawasdee Rentals on the beach road. Being a German-owned company, it somehow inspires confidence that the scooters have actually seen a maintenance schedule, quite a reassuring thought considering Koh Chang’s steep, winding roads.

In the evening, we wander through the nearby night market, where the usual selection of grilled seafood, fresh fruit, and Thai specialties competes for our attention. One stall, however, stands out from the crowd. It specializes in edible insects, everything from crickets to silkworms appears to be on the menu. Fascinated, we spend several minutes inspecting the selection before making the sensible decision to postpone the tasting until tomorrow. After all, psychological preparation is an important part of trying fried insects.

Exploring Koh Chang’s Hidden East Coast

We get an early start today. At 8 a.m., we hop on our scooters to explore Koh Chang’s quieter east coast. The morning air is still pleasantly cool as we ride through small villages, past rubber plantations, and over rolling green hills. Our first stop is breakfast at Eddy and Thy Café, a charming little place surrounded by a lush orchid garden that creates a wonderful tropical atmosphere. Unfortunately, the food doesn’t quite live up to the setting. It’s one of those cafés where the garden deserves five stars, while the kitchen settles for a respectable three.

An Unexpected Detour into the Mangroves

Not long after we leave, the day takes an unexpected turn.

While stopping at a quiet junction to check our route, Mel suddenly loses control of her scooter and slides down a steep embankment straight towards the mangrove below. For a split second, my heart simply stops. Fortunately, the scooter gets caught in thick bushes halfway down the slope instead of tumbling onto her.

When we reach her, she’s soaked from head to toe, shaken, and understandably in shock, but, incredibly, otherwise unharmed.

Several locals immediately stop to help us haul the scooter back onto the road. Neither Axel nor I actually see what caused the accident, and afterwards Mel can’t remember the crucial moment either. The scooter has a few scratches and broken plastic panels but appears mechanically fine. The only thing missing is the plastic tube attached to the number plate containing the registration and insurance papers. It has vanished somewhere during the crash.

Despite everything, Mel bravely rides the scooter back to the rental company. Afterwards, she wisely decides that today’s scooter adventure has provided quite enough excitement and returns to the hotel, which seems like a perfectly reasonable decision.

The damage bill later comes to around €130, including replacing the damaged parts, the missing document holder, and even transporting new registration papers from the mainland. We search the embankment and the mangrove water a second time but never find the missing tube. It has probably floated away with the tide. To their credit, the rental company charges what feels like a fair price, with no attempt to turn our little mishap into their retirement plan.

After disinfecting the small cuts Axel and I collected while scrambling through muddy mangroves during the rescue operation, we finally continue our east coast loop.

Thankfully, the rest of the day is considerably less eventful.

We visit several beautiful spots, including the peaceful Wat Salak Phet...

…and a scenic mangrove boardwalk. But the greatest pleasure is simply riding the quiet roads. Compared to the busy west coast, traffic is almost nonexistent, allowing us to fully enjoy the lush tropical scenery and the warm breezerushing past.

We follow the road as far as it goes along Koh Chang’s east coast. At its very end, we take a well-earned break at Aoy’s Little Farm & Bakery, a charming little café with relaxed outdoor seating and lovely views across the bay. It’s the perfect place to slow down for a while, enjoy a drink and a slice of homemade cake, and appreciate just how peaceful this side of the island still feels.

On the way, back to the hotel.

We make it back just in time for sunset. Before returning to the hotel, we stop once more at the local night market to finally sample another Thai specialty: fried insects. Grasshoppers, worms, tiny frogs, you name it, someone has probably deep-fried it. Covered in generous amounts of seasoning, they turn out surprisingly crunchy. Honestly, they taste less like insects and more like particularly adventurous potato chips.

In the evening we enjoy a fire show at the hotel.

Snorkeling in Koh Rang National Park

I’ve booked a snorkeling trip with BB Divers for today. Although they offer hotel pick-ups along the west coast, Axel and I decide to ride our scooters to Bang Bao Pier ourselves. Melanie happily stays behind at the hotel, snorkeling has never really been her thing, and after yesterday’s involuntary mangrove expedition, she has probably had enough adventure for a while.

The ride to the south is beautiful, winding through beach villages and dense rainforest. In places, the road becomes surprisingly steep, with gradients that make you instinctively wonder how things would look in the rain. Fortunately, the asphalt is in excellent condition. Even so, I completely understand why Ralf from the scooter rental company firmly advised us never to ride here on wet roads. Some corners look like they could turn into natural waterslides within seconds.

Just 25 minutes later, we arrive at Bang Bao Pier. After checking in at the dive shop, we’re handed surprisingly high-quality fins before making the long walk to the boat moored at the very end of the seemingly endless pier.

Around twenty guests are on board, a mix of divers and snorkelers, and shortly after 9 a.m. we head towards Koh Rang National Park. The journey takes about an hour and a half, but the boat is spacious and comfortable. Drinks, lunch, fresh fruit, and all the snorkeling equipment are included, and everything runs with impressive efficiency. It’s one of those tours where you hardly have to think about anything except remembering where you left your mask and sunscreen

We stop at three snorkeling sites. The water is wonderfully clear, with plenty of colourful fish and healthy coral, although none of the locations are particularly spectacular. Still, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable day on the water and an exceptionally well-organised excursion at a very reasonable price.

We return to Bang Bao Pier around 4:30 p.m. and enjoy one last scooter ride back to the hotel in the soft afternoon light, a fitting end to a relaxed day.

The evening is spent exactly as island holidays should be. We watch another fire show on the beach, enjoy dinner, and play a few rounds of cards.

Later, a tropical downpour sweeps across the island, bringing a welcome cool breeze with it. Sitting comfortably under cover, we can only conclude that timing is sometimes the most underrated travel skill.

Island Life at Its Best

Today is officially a relaxation day, a concept I fully support after the excitement of the past few days.

The morning at Sol Beach Resort begins exactly as mornings on Koh Chang should. After a leisurely coffee on the veranda of our beach bungalow, watching the sea gradually light up with the first rays of sunshine, I take the few steps to the cosy wooden beach restaurant.

Now I’m sitting here with a fresh mango smoothie in front of me. Soft lounge music drifts through the air, barely louder than the gentle sound of the waves. The early morning sun bathes the wooden terrace in warm golden light while the calm sea stretches endlessly towards the horizon.

It’s one of those wonderfully simple travel moments that require absolutely no sightseeing, no schedule, and no effort. Just a tropical breeze, the rhythm of the ocean, and the comforting feeling that there’s nowhere else you need to be.

Life could definitely be worse.

White Sand Beach – Twenty Years Later

The weather, however, can’t quite decide what it wants to do today. Grey clouds roll in, a little drizzle follows, then the sun suddenly returns just long enough to restore everyone’s optimism before disappearing again. It’s classic tropical weather, the meteorological equivalent of “maybe.”

After lunch, Axel and I decide to explore a bit more of the west coast by scooter. Our destination is White Sand Beach, a place I last visited almost twenty years ago. I can’t help wondering how much of it has survived the relentless march of tourism.

To my surprise, quite a lot.

At least the northern end of the beach looks remarkably familiar. The same simple beachfront huts are still standing, as if they collectively decided that the last two decades were merely a minor inconvenience. I had expected boutique resorts, infinity pools, and cafés charging the price of a small mortgage for an avocado toast. Instead, the place has stubbornly refused to reinvent itself. Respect.

The whole area still has that wonderfully relaxed backpacker atmosphere where flip-flops are considered formal footwear and nobody appears to know or care what day of the week it is. It’s the kind of place where ambitious travel itineraries quietly go to die, and everyone seems perfectly happy about it.

Then reality catches up.

Plans for a bridge connecting Koh Chang to the mainland are progressing, with completion currently envisioned for 2029. While improved access will undoubtedly benefit many local residents and businesses, it’s hard not to wonder what else it might bring. More visitors usually attract more hotels, more development, and eventually the kind of polished uniformity that makes one tropical island look suspiciously like the next.

That would be a genuine pity.

For now, though, Koh Chang remains reassuringly itself, slightly scruffy, wonderfully laid-back, and just rebellious enough to resist becoming another perfectly curated beach destination.

Long may it stay that way.

Exploring the island by scooter

Our final evening, before the the flight to Vietnam tomorrow

Goodbye Koh Chang, Hello Vietnam

Our transfer taxi arrives even before 6:30 a.m., so punctual that it almost feels suspicious. At that hour, I’m barely capable of forming complete sentences, while our driver already looks as though he’s halfway through a highly productive day.

The journey to the airport goes remarkably smoothly. No ferry drama, no endless waiting, no mysterious delays that begin with the words, “Just five more minutes.” Before we’ve even had a proper chance to complain about the early start, we arrive at Don Mueang Airport at 1:15 p.m.—a comfortable four hours before our flight.

Our AirAsia flight to Da Nang departs fashionably late. Nothing dramatic, just delayed enough to stay true to the unwritten rules of budget aviation.

At least we’ve treated ourselves to seats in the first row. The extra legroom makes us feel almost like VIPs, which, as every frequent traveller knows, is a surprisingly affordable illusion. After all, luxury is relative.

Final Verdict - More Than Just a Stopover

Thailand once again proves how many different faces it has. While Pattaya is not really my kind of destination, it is the perfect place to spend a few enjoyable days with my father, making the visit worthwhile in its own right.

The real highlight, however, is Koh Chang. Returning after twenty-five years, I’m delighted to find that, despite the inevitable changes, the island has retained much of the relaxed charm that first captured my imagination. As we board our flight to Vietnam, I leave with great memories, a few unexpected adventures, and the reassuring feeling that Koh Chang is still one of my favourite islands in Thailand.