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Thailand and Laos

Pad Thai and French Baguette (2016)

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

July 16^th, 2017

The Brief Itinerary

We started in Bangkok to soak up the atmosphere of the bustling city for two days. A flight to Chiang Rai and bus to Houayxay (Laos) brought us to the starting point of a scenic two-day river cruise down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. After a couple of relaxing days in the old kings city we took a bus to the backpacker heaven of Vang Vieng. The heavy party times of the past are over and now it's all about the scenery around. Just five hours further by bus is Vientiane, the modern but compared to Bangkok sleepy capital of Laos. Across the border the huge north eastern region of Thailand, called Isan, is still "Terra Icognita" on the classical tourist map. The right place to see and experience "real" rural Thailand. A 13 hours overnight bus ride away lies the the perfect contrast: Pattaya, the 24/7 amusement hot spot. Sin City.

Thailand - A Mourning Country

On 13th October 2016, Bhumibol Adulyadej, the highly respected king of Thailand, had died. He was the longest acting head of state by the time. Everywhere we walked around in Bangkok people were dressed in black. No surprise, black was also the dominating color in all outfit shops. A few days ago there even had been a shortage of black clothes we heard. Well, markets seem to react fast if big business lures. A coffee at Starbucks came with a free black horseshoe bend and a young lady beside gladly offered her help to fiddle it on my T-shirt. Free food, beverage and sweets were offered on the streets for the many pilgrims from oll over the country and tourists with black horseshoe bends were especially targeted by the volunteers. In front of Wat Phra Keo (The Kings Palace) a huge queue of people was waiting for many hours to pay their homage before the Royal Urn. We decided to postpone our visit to the Wat to next time in Bangkok.

Bangkok

Traffic

Roads are always busy in Bangkok, but at rush hour it's overwhelming. Also overwhelming is the number of taxis. At least every second car seemed to be a taxi. They come in different colours, pink, red, blue, green etc. depending on the company they are representing. Outside rush hour they are a good and cheap option to go around (ask to use the meter) especially if your travel to destinations are not close to the river (use the river boats) or sky train.

Chao Phraya And Best place to stay in Bkk

Buy far the most fun option to get around in Bangkok is by boat on the Chao Phraya River, as many interesting spots for tourists are along the river. There are several boat lines (coloured flags) and with the typical maps in guide books and provided information at the piers, it's very easy to find around.

Therefore my personal favourite area to stay in Bangkok is around Phra Arthit Road. It's right at the river and just a short stroll to Kaosan Road, the famous backpacker hotspot (although the roads around are more appealing nowadays than the original).

There is no close access to the metro or skytrain to get to the more downtown shopping places (MBK, Siam Paragon, etc.), However if you are interested in that there are several easy options:

Take a cheap taxi into downtown. The fasted way if no rush hour (15-20 min.).
Take a Chao Phraya river boat to Taksin Bridge (40 min.) and from there the Skytrain (20 min.). The longest option but with the best sightseeing on the way.
Walk to Phanfa Bridge (15 min.) and take a canal boat (15 min.) on the only left klong (river way) into downtown, experiencing the old fashioned way of travelling. Get of at Jim Thomson house (also worth a visit and in easy walking distance to the shopping malls).

Wat Arun

Easy accessible by river boat a must do while visiting Bangkok. Also especially nice to photograph from opposite the river at dusk and in the blue hour. Unfortunately, there was a huge scaffolding around the main "tower" this time, so I refrained from taking those pictures and spend my time in China Town instead.

China Town

It's overwhelmingly crowded, colourful like a comic, a criss cross of odours from disgusting to heaven like, chaotic, full of impressions, China Town is the full monty for one's senses.

It's all About Food

After all the hustle and bustle on the street it's sometimes nice to relax in a laid back restaurant for lunch or dinner, but honestly the best tasting food in Bangkok I always had at one of the many street stalls around town. Just look for a queue of local people, always the best sign for great taste. Thai food is fantastic.

Around Khaosan Road

I always liked the laid back backpacker atmosphere around Khaosan Road although the road itself never was my favourite. But this time I was completely disappointed: the harsh bright lights and lack of some green plants created a very steril atmosphere, not a place to stay for long. Fortunately close by Son Ram Butri: with its big green banyan trees and much more pleasant illumination it still manages to preserve the old time backpacker charm. Many places I remembered from my last stay, already 20 years ago.

Son Ram Butri - Shopping under beautiful Banyan Trees

Wat Po

Easy to understand why everyone just calls this temple Wat Pho related to its former name. The beautiful temple, famous for its 46m long reclining Buddha, is close to the King's Palace and a must do while in Bangkok.

There was a kind o fair on the temple ground with stalls selling food and remedies for all kind of medication. Here I even had my best Pad Thai ever, prepared by a smiling lady. Again, the best food in Thailand you get on the streets.

Streat Art

Mekong River Cruise

A flight to Chiang Rai, a taxi to the bus station and a 3h bus ride directly crossing the boarder into Laos brought us to Houayxay, our starting point for a two-day tour down the Mekong to Luang Prabang.

The Boat

There are different options. Small fast boats, for people who like to play "Russian Roulette" due to unforeseen shallows, or slow boats. The later ones are the far better choice to enjoy the Mekong atmosphere. There are cheap standard boats, which are used by locals, and some specialised tour operators with more comfortable boats. All the slow boats look similar from the outside, but are different regarding seating options and available space inside. Although not as authentic and more expensive, we chose the latter, giving space for walking around the boat and including good food and some sightseeing stops during the cruise. After some research and good reviews on the internet we chose Shampoo Cruise as tour operator. A good choice I can really recommend.

On the boat, waiting for the other guests.

River LiFe

To call staying two days on the Mekong on a slow boat a thrilling experience would be exaggerating, but it's by far not boring. Enjoying the scenery and the villages passing by, watching the fishermen, cargo boats and occasional crazy fast boats, having a chat with your fellow travellers and the friendly crew, reading a book, having some food and a cup of tea and coffee all interrupted by an occasional sightseeing stop. Well, a memorable experience it is.

A Local Village

Reading "visit of a local village" in a tour descriptions always gives me an "uneasy feeling", as too often these villages are overrun by different tour companies, e.g. due to a convenient location. Tourism in those villages is already the main income source and the streets are lined with stalls selling items tourists are interested in. Nothing wrong with it, as local people just try to get their fair share of a globalised travel world, but just not what I link with a "local village".

To my surprise this village stop was different, no prepared tourist shows, no tourist stalls, just a glimpse of authentic life in a local village along the Mekong in an relaxed atmosphere, with friendly locals. Some of the guest brought clothes, pens and drawing books which were gladly welcomed. We were told that the company uses different villages for the stop, thus avoiding overruning individual ones. A good idea I belief.

Overnight in Pak BenG

All small boats make an overnight stop here and accordingly this small village, half way to Luang Prabang, lives from the many overnight guest. We booked a room ahead (DP Motel, recommended) to avoid finding ourself left in a shabby room, arriving late (which we didn't as our tour started earlier than the standard slow boats). It´s not a bad place for an afternoon, with some good places for dinner and also nice to stroll a bit around.

Pak Ou Caves

This caves, 25 km from Luang Prabang, are famous for the thousands of differently sized Buddhist figures. Not really worth to visit for its own, but a nice stopover as part of the two-days tour.

Whiskey Village

Ok, ok... here it comes, the tourist version of a local village (see chapter "A local village" above). It has a reputation for its Mekong Whiskey and local weaving, and due to its proximity to Luang Prabang it is part of many day trips - but not a must see.

Arrival at Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang

Oh, what a beauty. The capital of the former French protectorate and residence of the Laotian King until 1975, when the monarchy came to its end, manages to preserve its wonderful colonial charm and relaxing atmosphere despite the many tourists visiting this UNESCO World Heritage site. It's a pleasure to stroll around in the old town, which is cornered by the Mekong and Nam Khan. Don't expect an authentic experience but it's a charming melange of Boutique Hotels, Restaurants, cafes, tourist shops, Vats and living houses (unfortunately converted more and more to serve the tourist hype) in a lush green surrounding: my favourite city in South East Asia and worth spending 3-5 days there, as there are also plenty of things to discover outside the city.

The Night Market

Morning Market

We had an accommodation right at the morning market, making it halfway bearable to get up at sunrise to experience this daily local ritual. As with many asian markets it´s the full monty for your senses. Not so easy to take pictures, as space is limited and the place is bustling with locals.

Wat Xieng Thong

Built in the 16th century, this beautiful monastery is one of the most important ones in Laos. Many Lao kings were crowned in this Wat.

Mount Pho Si

350 steps bring you to the top of the holy mountain right in the city. It's a prime sunset spot with a beautiful view over the city, but it can get extremely crowed during that time. We preferred to climb up in the later afternoon prioritising the more relaxed atmosphere.

Evening Atmosphere

The warm light in the beautiful, peaceful surrounding is like the cream on your cake. It makes the whole thing perfect.

Food Orgy

Luang Prabang is a nightmare for all calories counters. Not that Lao food is extremely rich, but it's the sheer mass of culinary temptations that lure around every corner. A nice looking cake here, a noodle soup there, trying a lemon grass sausage on the market or a great tasting sandwich with a fresh self-composed fruit shake from one of the many street stalls... and not to forget some really good restaurant options for dinner that serve Laotian dishes like laab (warm minced spicy meet with herbs), spicy papaya salat, sticky rice and much more in a great atmosphere right at the river. Yummy!!!

Tad Kuang Xi

Roughly 30 km outside of Luang Prabang lies this beautiful set of cascades that can be reached easily by taxi or a scenic one-hour scooter ride. Better to start early as it can get crowed during the day. Don't forget your swim gear and a tripod for some great waterfall shots.

On the walking path to the waterfall there is a bear sanctuary. It's worthwhile spending some time watching bears, especially when they are active in the morning.

Vat Visounnarath

The Living Land Farm

If you ever wanted to know and experience by yourself how to cultivate rice, this is the place to go. Located just a few kilometer outside Luang Prabang, this farming community was formed to introduce organic and land friendly methods by closely working together with local villagers. They also have different community activities running, e.g. providing free English classes. We really enjoyed the half-day tour with our highly enthusiastic guide. Highly recommend!

Alms Giving Ceremony

As the sun rises in Luang Prabang, hundreds of Buddhist monks depart from their various temples to gather their daily meal. The tradition of alms gathering dates back to the 14th century, yet still today locals wake early to prepare the food for the monks and wait quietly by the roadside to hand over their gifts. This daily ceremony is both peaceful and spiritual and gives you a wonderful opportunity to experience an ancient Lao tradition. No wonder that also hundreds of tourist gather every morning to watch the ceremony, and although signs give advice how to behave appropriately, not few behave disrespectfully, standing in the way of the monks, taking close-up pictures, using the flash, etc. In some areas, especially at the entrance of the monasteries, it feels a bit like in a zoo. I have to admit that it's a challenge to stick to the rules while taking pictures, especially as many do not. Fortunately I was able to see the ceremony on four days, and therefore I had the time to figure out the best places and strategy for some good results. Here is some advice:

Enjoy the ceremony and atmosphere the first half an hour without taking photos (without flash it's too dark for good results anyway). Behave respectfully.
The monks move surprisingly fast, accordingly a fast lens 2.8 or better at full frame will help to freeze the motion in the dim morning light. But also some motion blurriness can give interesting results.
The best results can be achieved in the calmer side streets, especially Kounxoua Road: less tourists, more locals and better backgrounds.
Rather than walking with the monks, place yourself in a good spot (considering fore- and background) and let them pass. In general, there will be several groups passing.
Try different angels, my favourite pictures was shot on street level.

Vang Vieng

The road from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng is supposed to be a scenic highlight. Unfortunately the weather was quite bad.

Vang Vieng was the backpacker hangout par excellence. It was famous for its party scene along a calm and scenic river. Floating on truck tires and stopping at countless bars with loud party music, all kind of "happy" offers and crazy jump points or zip lines over the river was the big business. After several fatalities, the government closed down everything and the big party was over. But the first "illegal" bar was already open again and I wonder how long it will take until the old party times are back. The big business seems to be too tempting.

Fortunately Vang Vieng has more to offer, the scenery around the city with many steep limestone hills and caves is spectacular and worth to explore for a couple of days on bike or scooter.

Balloning

Tubing

Vientiane

Impressions

Vientiane, the capital of Laos, is the much smaller and sleepier version of Bangkok. It's not a must do while visiting Laos, but ok for a stop of one or two days.

Patuxay Monument

Pha That Luang

Mekong Sunset Atmosphere

Sunset Workout

Night Market

Wat Si Saket

Shock Moments

Thailand - Isan

There is probably no better place to get an insight view of rural Thailand then the north-eastern province. It´s a poor region, but continuously developing. Tourists are still very rare here and the locals are especially friendly.

Beside rice and sugar cane, rubber is the main crop of the region.

Loi Krathong

Pattaya - sin City

If you choose staying as a foreigner in Pattaya, chances are high that you are retired, a sex tourist or a Russian family. At least this is the strong impression looking around and talking to some people here. There a masses of hotels and condos available in Pattaya and the latter probably offer the best value for money and are even available for short term rentals. The city is full of entertainment of all kind and the night time nucleus is the famous Walking Street. If not for visiting my retired father, Pattaya definitely wouldn't be part of my itinerary. There are so many better places to discover in Thailand!

Walking Street

There's no accounting for taste. Whereas in Western culture a nice brown taint is often considered desirable, it's white skin in Thailand. Whitening creams sometimes with strange ingredients are advertised on every corner. Snail secretion on my face? Yuck, I prefer the brownish taint.

Jomtien Beach

What shall I say is that the water looked so dirty that not even 10 horses would manage to draw me in. But it's a fun place for people watching.

A city in Thailand without masses of scooters? Impossible. It's huge fun to position yourself on a good spot overlooking a street just to watch the scooters passing by. It won't take long until you will observe some funny or interesting situations.

Where there is a nice view the selfie sticks are not far away.

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