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Tajikistan and Uzbekistan - Pamir Highway and More

30 days exploring the "The Stans" 09/2019 (Part 2/2)

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

October 25^th, 2020

Motivation

see part 1 of the trip --> Kazakhstan/Kyrgyzstan

Intinerary

Kazakhstan/Kyrgysztan (12N) - see part 1 for details
Karakul (1N) - village and lake
Bulunkul (1N) - village and lakes
Langar-Hissor (2N) - day hike to Peak Engels
Ishkoshim (1N) - Wakhan Corridor
Khorog (3N) - city tour, relaxing
Kalaikhum (1N)
Duschanbe (2N) - city tour
Iskanderkul (1N) - lake, relaxing
Seven Lakes (2N) - hiking
Samarkand (2N) - city tour
Buchara (2N) - city tour
Taschkent (1N)

Tajikistan and Uzbekistan - Pamir Highway and More

Tajikistan Facts

Population: around 9 million
Size: 143,000 km²
Capital: Dushanbe
Biggest City: Dushanbe, 0.8 million
Main Languages: Tajik, Russian
Currency: Somoni (TJS), 1 EUR = 11,2 TJS (05/2020)

Meeting the team

On the other site of the Kyrgyzstan border, in the no man's land, our new guide Mohammed and driver Sharif are already waiting for us. We are too late. We quickly find out that Sharif is a bit shy regarding pictures, so the below one shows him in a typical action we will see him countless times, keeping the car spotlessly clean. He is not talking a lot but if shows a dry humour that makes us laughing tears more than once. Mohammed is quite the opposite, very talkative with perfect English, extremely knowledgeable and more than once the target of Sharifs dry humour. Together will will have a lot of fun the next two weeks.

The 18 km road to the Tajik border is quite bumpy, but much better than it used to be in the past, as we learn. The border control can be tricky here, according to the guidebook. I refrain from making any pictures. It's not uncommon that only money helps to makes the border process more fluent. Due to its remoteness, it is also a typical smuggling route for emeralds. But I shouldn't wonder if also for drugs coming from Afghanistan. Anyway we do not experience any problems.

The scenery on our way, despite its bareness, is stunning. It's a combination of moon-like desert and colourful rocks, until we finally descend towards the sparkling green and blue Lake Karakul, with snow-covered mountains in the background. What a view!

Lake Karakul

At 4,020 m altitude, a harsh environment to grow up. Due to its mineralogy, the beautiful lake does not even provide edible fish. Our homestay is simple, clean and run by a lovely family.

We walk through the village and along the lake shore. Mohammed explains that 600 $ to 700 $ a month are required to have a good life in Tajikistan. A simple policeman typically earns only 60 $ to 70 $ from the government, therefore he appreciates small gifts for his work. This is not considered as bribery but as tribute to the job he does for the country. Well, a new view for us and in some way understandable. A lot of Tajiks also work in Russia and send money home to their families.

On the way to Lake Bulunkul

The plan for today is to drive 280 km, 5 h to Bulunkul. One the way, we visit a building said to be from the "Great Game" period. This term is used to describe the period in the 19th century when England and Russia fought a war of influence in Central Asia.

At 4,655 m, we cross the Ak Baital Pass, the highest point of our trip.

The area up here is dry, bare and hostile. No water, no trees, bushes, grass, no animals - not even yaks. Also traffic is extremely low. All the more we are surprised that we see more bikers than cars. We use a short stop to have a chat with Wolfgang and Sabrina and I give it a try with Wolfgang's bike. They came all the way from Austria via East Europe, Turkey, Armenia and Iran to this place and further plan to cycle to China and Pakistan. They have my deepest respect together with all the other bikers on this tour. You can follow Wolfgang and Sabrina on their highly interested website wosanontour.com. Hey guys, if you read this lines, I wish you all the best and always enough air in your tyres!

We stop in Murghab for lunch and a quick look at the market, which consists of ship containers in two rows. 8,000 people live in this windy and dusty place. On one administration building we see a huge picture showing the president standing in a sea of flowers with a gesture that look very, ....ahem, let's say irritating, especially for Germans. Very, very weird, especially in such a place.

After having travelled a while since Murghab and being closer to Bulunkul, the scenery becomes more diverse, with rivers and occasional lakes.

Bulunkul

At 4,000 m, the tiny village at lake Bulunkul is considered the coldest place in Tajikistan. Minus 50 degrees Celsius is not uncommon in winter time. Often, people live from their stock, as there exists a huge flat pasture surrounded by a moonlike landscape. In winter, only a few people stay here, taking care of the livestock of the whole village.

Everything is very basic, including our homestay. Toilets are outside, showers do not exists. Water needs to be pumped manually from a pump house in the village. Our host lady is lovely, she even speaks a bit of English. It’s a very hard life up here, no wonder that their grown-up children who study in bigger cities show no interest to return.

Village impressions.

Fortunately, it’s not too cold in the night, and although the moon shines brightly, the stars offer a spectacular performance, begging for a night shot.

Early in the morning, life starts at sunrise with bringing the stock to the pasture. Close by are the lakes Bulunkul and Jashikul, which offer a spectacular scenery in the morning light.

We leave Bulunkul and make our way on a lonely, rough road towards Afghanistan. After a while, the snow-covered Hindu Kush mountains come into view.

We slowly descend to the Wakhan Corridor. This part together with the Whakan Valley separates Pakistan from Tajikistan and was created as a buffer zone between Russia and England at a time both were trying to extend their territory into Central Asia. This period is known as the "Great Game", as the fight between the two opponents was also heavenly fought based on alliances, spies, treason, etc.

Today, this area is the main drug smuggling route coming from Afghanistan, going to Osh in Kyrgyzstan and then making its way to Europe. It’s considered to be relatively safe for tourists. The only incidents in the past were fights between smugglers and the police / military.

A small, shallow river is all that separates us from Afghanistan. Sometimes, tourists walk over for a picture, but that is generally not a good idea. Who knows who is watching, better to avoid any trouble. The guidebooks says you need to be careful at the river bench due to unmarked mine fields. But everywhere are footprints from cows and we see shepherds along the benches. So close to Afghanistan I at least have to throw a stone over to the other side.

Once better and safer times come, I would love to visit the Afghanistan. I heard several stories about the beauty of the country and the legendary hospitality of the Pashtuns.

Picknick time.

In the very first moment, I thinks it's a Fata Morgana - but it's a real camper van. I can't believe it and walk over to have a chat. A Frech family with three children. "Slowly, slowly, we have time" is the answer when I asked them how they managed the road condition and elevation. It will be the only camper van we see on our trip. Brave or crazy? Maybe both.

Down in the valley, we visit a holy shrine in a garden. Huge trees surround us, water flows, birds sing, the temperature is just perfect. After days of bare, dry mountains area, we feel like we we’ve arrived in paradise. The hot shower in the guesthouse we reach shortly after proves our paradise theory.

During dinner, we have a nice conversation with a perfect German-speaking guide from another group. The next morning, Mohammed tells us that he is famous and insist that we have to take a picture with him. He is the nephew of Navruz, the reincarnation of the first Persian poet Rudaki. Navruz was born 1942, exactly 1,000 years after Rudaki's death. Now, Navruz' nephew has taken over the task to translate all his uncle's poems into German.

Langar - Day Hike to Peak Engels

Besides the information in our travel itinerary (a beautiful but strenuous hike), we did not find a lot of concrete information. Even the Bradt Guidebook was no help, nor was Mohammed, as he hadn’t done this hike before. Therefore, a local guide joins us who knows the way but is not very communicative and also very vague when asked for information. A situation we generally don’t like. Therefore, here is the information from our GPS:

The hike starts at 2,800 m in Hissor and goes all the way up to the base of Peak Engels at 3,950 m. It starts very steep, going up to 3,500 m, then follows a water channel for several kilometers, until finally it goes up again to the viewpoint. At first, it's the same way back, but instead of making the very steep and slippery descent, the route follows the water channel further on almost even level, until it ends after a 20 min. descent to a village where our driver is waiting for us, maybe at around 3,200 m (I forgot to check). All in all, 21 km with spectacular views almost the whole way. It took us around 8.5 hours, however bear in mind we are not the fastest.

Mohammed is well-educated and loves to talk about everything. Despite our long and tiring hike, today we have serious discussions about Trump, Nietzsche, Hitler, the Koran and Christianity. What a mix, it won't be the last time!

Along the Afghan Border

Almost everyone gets stomach problems in Tajikistan. The guidebook, our travel agency and other traveller warned us. We are not an exception, and after several porcelain meetings, we feel weak and miserable, not very willing to get out of the car for some sightseeing on our way to Ishkoshim. Here, the Wakhan Valley is mostly wide and fruitful. It’s harvest time and we see many people working on the field. Passing with the car, we are several times invited for a tea with a clear gesture, but unfortunately neither have we the time nor do we feel accordingly.

On the way, we visit the Yamchun Fort, the natural hot spring of Bibi Fatima (where I have a dip between the many locals, recommended!) and the small museum of Mubaraki-i-Wakhani, a kind of all-round genie. He translated the Koran from Arab to Persian, invented a calendar, a 19-string instrument for his Sufi sounds, and from time to time he vanished for 40 days into a small hut for fasting and meditation.

We are glad when we finally arrive at the Hanis Guesthouse in Ishkoshim. The toilets are just next to our rooms, which is our highlight of the day, together with the comfortable bed and the extremely sweet medication tea we receive from Sharif.

Khorog

The next day brings us to Khorog. The valley becomes tighter, the scenery more dramatic. Little scenic villages constantly show up on the Afghan side. Khorog, the capital of the region, is beautifully settled in a valley, which is best observed from the botanical garden. It’s a green and relaxed city and we even find a nice coffee place. We decide to stay one more day and skip the hike and overnight into the Jisev Valley, as we still feel weak and our Hotel Zafar has quite cosy rooms.

Breakfast view from our hotel, not bad.

Hm, who does that Tajik folk hero reminds us of with his beard?

Another long day on a very bad road brings us to Kalaikhum. Afghanistan is still all the time just a stone's throw away from us, over the now wild Pyandzh river, and we can get several glimpses of the village life on the other side.

We constantly see small military troops on foot, patrolling the border on the Tajikistan side, and wonder why we never see patrols on the opposite side. "Nobody wants to enter Afghanistan" is the reply of our guide. Well, sounds plausible. Nevertheless, a few hours later, we see a patrol with three jeeps on the Afghan side. Covered people in the back hold mounted machine guns. A martial scene we typically imagine with Taliban or IS troups. Fortunately, a Police sign on the cars signals that these are the good ones and we are greeted with friendly waves and some machine gun poses for the pictures.

Kalaikhum

Shortly behind Kalaikhum we visit a former garden retreat of President Rahmon, now open for the public. It feels a bit like a tiny Disney World, quite cheesy if not even bizarre in this beautiful surroundings but worthwhile to explore.

President Rahmon, a real hero.

Finally, after several days following the border with Afghanistan, we turn inland towards the capital Dushanbe. Signs on the way warn of minefields, a leftover from the civil war.

Lunch break.

On the way, we visit the Mausoleum of Mir Said Ali Hamadoni in Kulob. Al Hamadoni was a famous Persian Sufi master.

Another stop is Hulbuk Fortress. Hulbuk was one of the biggest cities in Central Asia between the 9th and 11th century until it was destroyed by the Mongols. The renovated walls are quite impressive but otherwise there is not much to see inside.

The place for the four tourist cyclists who were killed by Islamic terrorists on July 29, 2018. Not at the border to Afghanistan but on a highway just 100 km away from Dushanbe. Apart from this tragic event, the country was and is relatively safe for travellers.

Dushanbe

I’m generally not much into posh hotels, but after the last 10 days our 4**** Hotel (Atlas) feels like a real treat and we enjoy a great hot shower, the heavenly comfortable beds and the breakfast buffet with cereals and good real coffee.

The city is clean, surprisingly green and of course full of representative buildings, including a 150 m high flagpole. Once the highest in the world, it is now exceeded by one in an Arab country (can’t remember which one). Seems to be a new game for autocratic rulers. But when it comes to the number of banners showing the president in his full duty for his land and his people, it’s hard to believe that anyone can match Emomalij Rahmon. Of course we never heard a bad word about him. The propaganda works.

We visit a kind of giant convent building, the Navruz Palace. Here, the best Tajik craftsmen and the most expensive materials have been used to create a luxurious showcase of Tajik craftsmanship. Very impressive on the one hand, but hard to understand on the other, considering how poor huge parts of the population are. We joke that with the costs of that palace the whole Pamir Highway could be perfectly tarred with two lanes including a medial strip made from Swarovski crystals. Most impressive is the large conference room, perfect to host the regional dictatorship meetings.

Night-time in Dushanbe

Street scenes.

Dushanbe market

After we have pampered ourselves a bit in Dushanbe, we head on towards Iskander Kul. On the way we pass the "Tunnel of Death". 5 km of no light, potholes, dripping water and sometimes crazy truck drivers, that's where the name is coming from. Well, I didn't find it that scary! Either they have improved the situation over the last years, or we have to rename some European tunnels 😉. Outside the tunnel, the road was surprisingly good but for the last bumpy 25 km.

Iskander Kul

Honestly, after having seen so many great lakes during this trip, it’s hard to still impress me. Iskander Kul is considered to be the most famous mountain lake in Tadschikistan due to different myths related to Alexander the Great, but apart from this it’s just another nice lake. As an add-on it comes with a close-by waterfall with the nickname "Niagara Falls of the Fann Mountains". A slight exaggeration but nevertheless worth the 60 min walk. On the other side of the lake lies another impressive recreation centre for the president (not open for the public). The perfect weekend retreat for the hard-working man, even with two helicopter landing spots. So, no need to surface the bumpy 25 km access road.

Beautiful night sky.

The Seven Lakes

Also in the Fann Mountains is the area called "The Seven Lakes". We drive on a good road towards Panjakent and then turn left on a soon very bad road up to the 4th lake, were we stay in a village named Nofin in a guesthouse. The individual lakes are not so spectacular, it’s more the chain of them with different shapes and colours in the narrow valley that makes the area attractive. We pass several scenic little villages on the way.

The next day, we drive up the valley to the sixth lake, from where we hike around 1.5 hours to the seventh lake. At the starting point, water flows out at several spots from the huge rockslide that created the lake. A strange sight.

Selfie time

Some typical ways of transport in the region

Panjakent

Panjakent is our last stop before the border to Uzbekistan. The border was closed for a long time due to some disputes between the two countries. It's said that the former president of Uzbekistan, Karimov, and Rahmon from Tajikistan didn't like each other. Well, maybe because of Rahmon's higher flagpole.

Nevertheless, since Shavkat Mirziyoyev took over in Uzbekistan in December 2016, the relationship between the two countries normalised and the Border from Panjakent to Samarkand was reopened in 2017. Not so important for trade, but for tourism it was good news, as it opened a great opportunity to conveniently combine Tajikistan and Usbekistan with an attractive itinerary.

We bid farewell to Mohammed and Sharif.

The border crossing is easy, although a bit of walking. Everyone is polite, and of course we hear the typical questions/comments, "Germania!?", "Futbol". On the Usbekistan side, our transport to Samarkand is already waiting. It’s just 30 min to our Hotel Boulevard Palace. As usual, perfectly organised.

The next morning Zoyir, our guide for Uzbekistan, greets us in perfect German. He lived for five years in Wuppertal and Mainz.

Uzbekistan Facts

Population: around 33 million
Size: 449,000 skm
Capital: Tashkent
Biggest City: Tashkent, 2.5 million
Main Languages: Uzbek, Russian
Foreign Languages: English with some luck in more touristic places,
Currency: Uzbek (SOM), 1 EUR = 11.100 SOM (05/2020)

Samarkand

The next two days, we explore different sights in Samarkand with Zoyir. We start with the Gur-Emir Mausoleum, the burial site of the folk hero Timur Lenk. The Mausoleum is much more pompous inside than one would expect from the outside.

Without doubt the Registan with the three madrasahs from the 15th and 17th century is the highlight in Samarkand, if not in whole Uzbekistan. This is the first time during our trip that we see bigger tourist groups. It's not wrong to assume that almost every tourist in Uzbekistan will visit this place.

The beautiful structures also attract painters.

We also have a look at the Siab Bazar and buy a delicious fresh and warm bread which we instantly enjoy. Maybe we have seen already too many fascinating bazars on this trip, but this one lacks some atmosphere.

The Registan is especially scenic after sunset.

Early in the morning, before the tourist groups arrive, we visit the impressive Shahi Zinda Nekropolis. It's also an important place for pilgrims. Those who count on the way up and down the same number of stairs are sinless. Well, I failed.

In the evening, the modern Afrosiyob High Speed Train brings us in just 1.5 hours to Buchara, where we check in to our hotel Sultan. It's not the most luxurious one, but perfectly located in the centre.

Buchara

Like Samarkand, Buchara is quite busy with tourists. The interesting city centre is not too large, so all tourists gather here, and also hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops, etc.

The town's landmark is the Chor Minor Madrasah, which is especially beautiful in the early morning or afternoon light.

Buchara does not have specific highlights, it's more the total atmosphere of the historic centre that is the main attraction, with the old buildings, markets and the small lake in the centre, which is a perfect spot for a cup of tea.

No lack of souvenirs.

Many beautiful buildings close together, the Mir-Arab-Madrasah and the Poi Kalon Mosque.

Final Verdict

Definitely I enjoyed the diversity of the trip. The combination of modern (Nur-Sultan) and historic cities (Samarkand, Buchara). The different landscapes with wide steppe (Kazakhstan), green rolling hills with clear rivers and forest (Kyrgyzstan), the high plateau lakes (Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan) and the rough mountain ranges and valleys (Tajikistan). The combination of comfortable hotels (cities), yurts and basic homestays. And of course the different cultures in the region, becoming obvious for travellers by customs, food, language, ethnics including obvious facial features which are more evident than I have naively expected based on the common history of these countries in the Soviet Union.

I would make only few changes regarding the itinerary. Maybe one more day in Osh and Iskashim for regeneration and instead skipping the the mountain area around Iskander Kul and the Seven Lakes, which, despite the beautiful scenery, fell a bit behind after the time in the Pamir.

For anyone who loves long road trips in epic landscapes with a touch of adventure, this trip is heaven. Of course you shouldn't mind long days on bumpy roads, basic accommodation with no hot or cold showers outside the bigger cities, and also occasional stomach problems are hard to avoid, especially in the Pamir region. Nevertheless, the food was almost always tasty and even the most basic accommodations were clean, and lovely hosts made up for missing comfort. Locals were friendly all over the trip, but language is an issue. Beside the local languages, Russian is widely spoken, however English only by chance. So communication with locals was mostly limited to gestures and smiles or translation by our guides. Although by far not a cheap option, but doing this trip as a private tour with driver and guide proved to be right for us and of course you get what you pay for.

Therefore: a big THANK YOU to our guides (Sabina, Diana, Mohammed, Zoyir) and drivers (Damir and Sharif) on the way, which all made this trip memorable and did a great job bringing us their countries and local culture closer and enriched the trip with their own personalities. Special thanks also to Luca and Aijan Lässer from Kalpak Travel, who helped us to create that tailor-made tour and organised it in a perfect way. Everything worked perfectly from start to finish.

Nevertheless, we also met independent travellers, even mostly on bikes. So of course it's possible if you bring more time and have a special adventurous spirit. In Uzbekistan, we have seen bigger tour groups, but in the other countries only few small groups up to maximum ten persons. This all comes with obvious advantages and disadvantages. So, different ways to explore Central Asia. If you are interested, take the one that suits you best and go for it, you won't regret visiting these diverse and fascinating countries.

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