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Taiwan

Part 3 - Four weeks traveling through Japan and Taiwan, Oct./Nov. 2025

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

April 25^th, 2026

Welcome

This travel story is separated in three parts, use the links below to the other parts

--> Go to Part 1:Japan - Tokyo to Kanazawa

--> Go to Part 2:Japan - Kyoto to Kagoshima

--> This is Part 3:Taiwan

Motivation - Why to Go?

There was more to my decision to visit Taiwan for three days on my way back from Japan to Germany than convenience. I wanted to venture off the beaten track and experience a place that is both culturally rich and modern, yet deeply rooted in tradition. The ongoing tensions between China and Taiwan also influenced my decision, not just out of political curiosity, but because the future of the island is genuinely unclear. This sense of uncertainty made my visit feel meaningful and timely.

However, what truly drew me in was my curiosity about Taiwanese culture and how it differs from mainland China and Japan. I wanted to understand how history, language, daily life and social values had developed along a different path – one that was more open and diverse and noticeably shaped by multiple cultural influences. Of course 3 days are by far not enough for this insight but it's a start. Beyond that, Taiwan appealed to me for some very personal reasons: its exciting food culture; its vibrant night markets; its beautiful, easily accessible nature; and its relaxed, safe atmosphere, which makes even a short stopover feel deep and authentic.

Climate and Best Travel Time

Taiwan’s climate is subtropical to tropical, meaning warm temperatures all year, high humidity and a clear rainy season. In cities like Taipei, summers are hot and sticky, while winters stay mild and comfortable.

The best time to travel to Taiwan is October to April. During these months the weather is usually drier, cooler and ideal for sightseeing, hiking and city trips.

The summer months (June to September) are hotter and bring heavy rain and occasional typhoons, which can disrupt travel plans – but also turn the island’s lush landscapes even greener.

Facts and Figures

Size: ~36,200 sq. km
Population: ~23.5 million
Capital and biggest city: Taipei, about 2.6 million inhabitants
Ethnic groups: ~95% Han Chinese, ~2–3% Indigenous peoples, others
Languages: Mandarin Chinese (official), Taiwanese Hokkien, Hakka, Indigenous languages
Currency: New Taiwan Dollar (TWD), approx. 100 TWD ≈ 2.7 € (02/2026)
Fun fact: Taipei is home to Taipei 101, which was the world’s tallest building from 2004 to 2010 and is still one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

Itinerary

I visited Taiwan as part of a stopover en route back from Japan. As I could only afford to stay for two nights and three days, I focused on the capital, Taipei.

Day 1-3 Taipeh - H: Star Hostel Taipei Main Station

By the way, many people do not realise that Japan's Okinawa Prefecture is so close to Taiwan — with the nearest island only 110 km apart.

Arrival

While waiting in the departure lounge in Kagoshima, I check for the immigration procedure in Taiwan, just to find out to my surprise that, since 25 October, a digital arrival card is required. I'm shocked at first, as my flight from Kagoshima is due to depart in an hour. Thankfully, I read on and learn that the card is issued immediately and that it's still possible to use a physical card. While looking for the digital card, I quickly discover that there are people taking advantage of the new situation by charging a fee to manage (or not manage) the process on alternative sites.

The official website is completely free of charge, and it only takes 10 minutes to complete the digital process. So beware!

Two-thirds of the plane seems to be filled with Japanese school classes. Upon arrival, there is a long queue for food control due to the pig trotter ban. Almost everyone seems to be queuing here. I decide to take the green line and see what happens. I have to show my flight ticket, then I can pass through. I wonder if everyone else on the flight has filled their hand luggage with pork sausages.

There is no one waiting at customs. Declaring their pork sausages takes time, of course. Thanks to the digital arrival card linked with my passport, I'm through in two minutes.

I collect the preloaded EasyCard that I booked with Kloog at their counter and take the Metro Express to the city centre.

The Star Hostel is perfectly clean, well organised and has a fabulous common area. The private room is not big, but has its own shower and is perfectly sufficient for sleeping.

As I take my first steps in the city, I immediately notice some differences compared to Japan. There is more traffic on the streets, which are definitely louder, mainly due to the many petrol-powered scooters. Honking is also part of the street etiquette, although not excessively. In Japan, I saw almost no homeless people, but passing the Taipei Main Station, I can see dozens of them seeking shelter in front of the building. It’s significantly warmer, too. From the Main Station I take the metro to the Longshan temple, which is also the meeting point for the evening street food tour I've booked some days ago.

Longshan Temple is one of Taiwan’s most atmospheric and historically significant temples. Founded in 1738, it brings together Buddhist, Taoist and folk deities under one beautifully decorated roof. Despite surviving earthquakes, fires and wartime bombings, the temple remains a vibrant spiritual centre.

Despite the many people who seem to be praying, resting or simply admiring its ornate carvings and incense-filled courtyards, it’s rather quiet compared to the outside world. There is chanting in the background and the air is pleasantly filled with incense. I really enjoy the spiritual and peaceful atmosphere, and I will come back again the next morning to experience it during daylight.

Taiwan is known for its street food, which has even been recognised by Michelin. So, I’ve booked a street food tour for this evening. The eight of us are given a nice introduction to the local food culture by our guide, Tammy, who also shares some site stories. We try...

Guangzhou Street Night Market, Taipeh, Taiwan

...the world famous Taiwan oyster omelette and listen about the importance of convenient stores in daily life...

...sample on snake whiskey and dumplings...

...braised pork and marinated eggs...

...stinky tofu (tastes better than it smells, but still not my favourite)...

...pancakes, a refreshing cucumber drink and finally some kind of sweet sticky balls.

Feeling satisfied and completely full, I take in the night-time atmosphere in a quiet corner of Taipei on my way home.

The next morning, I continue exploring the city, starting with a another visit to the Longshan Temple. Even more in daytime I'm amazed by all the intricate details of the temple.

Street taxi scene in Taipei

Taipei Tianhou Temple is a small but deeply atmospheric temple tucked into the busy city streets. Dedicated to the sea goddess Mazu, the temple feels like a living part of everyday life rather than a tourist stop. Locals come in to light incense, whisper quick prayers and move on with their day, while the scent of smoke and the soft clatter of ritual sounds create a calm contrast to the traffic outside.

One of the most famous dishes in Taipei is beef noodle soup, which I try at this recommended place just before the rush. Yummy!

Ximending, often called the 'Harajuku of Taipei', is the city's vibrant hub for youth culture, fashion and nightlife. With its colourful streets, quirky boutiques, street performers and themed cafés, it's a great place for shopping and people-watching and of course a bubble tea.

Very special cakes

A Word about Bubble Tea

If there is one drink that instantly connects to Taiwan, it’s bubble tea – or boba, as fans around the world love to call it. What many travelers don’t know is that this playful mix of tea, milk and chewy tapioca pearls was born right here in Taiwan in the late 1980s.

The most famous origin story leads to Taichung, where the tea house Chun Shui Tang is often credited with creating the first modern bubble tea by adding tapioca pearls to iced milk tea. A second, equally proud claim comes from Tainan, home of Hanlin Tea Room. In true Taiwanese fashion, both stories are told with a smile – and nobody seems too bothered about who was really first.

Fun fact: the “bubbles” in bubble tea originally referred to the foam created by shaking the tea, not the pearls at the bottom. Those chewy black balls later became the real star of the drink.

What makes bubble tea in Taiwan special is the incredible level of customization. Sugar level, ice level, tea base, milk type and toppings can all be mixed to your exact taste. It’s less about ordering a drink and more about designing your own.

For me, bubble tea perfectly reflects modern Taiwanese culture: creative, playful, open to experimentation and deeply connected to everyday street life. Standing in line at a small tea shop, watching fresh pearls being scooped into cups, felt like a small but delicious insight into how Taiwan blends tradition with modern trends – one sip at a time.

It's not the first one, but Xing Fu Tang is said to serve the best brown sugar boba milk tea in Taipei. I'm no expert, but I really like it. It's not too sweet, and the freshly made brown sugar pearls are nicely chewy.

I especially like the street art area. There is a long queue of girls waiting in front of a band mural (I have no idea who these guys are) to take a picture with their favourite performer. I’m impressed by their patience.

A bit of history

The history of Taiwan is deeply shaped by its complex relationship with both China and Japan – and you can still feel that layered past in everyday life.

For centuries, Taiwan stood at the edge of the Chinese cultural world, influenced by migration from the mainland but never fully identical to it. A decisive turning point came in 1895, when Taiwan became part of Japan and remained under Japanese rule for fifty years. During that time, infrastructure, education systems and urban planning were heavily shaped by Japan – traces that are still visible today in architecture and city layouts.

After the Second World War, Taiwan was returned to Chinese administration, and its political separation from mainland China later turned the island into a unique society with its own identity, institutions and way of life. Today, Taiwan’s culture reflects this unusual history: Chinese traditions, Japanese influence and a modern, democratic mindset come together in a way that feels clearly distinct from both of its powerful neighbors.

Next is the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial. To be honest, I didn’t expect much, but when I turn the corner from the subway exit, I am greeted by an enormous gate, two huge temple-like buildings, and the gigantic monument. Wow, impressive!

Chiang-Kai-shek Monument, Taipeh, Taiwan

Ching Kai-shek

Chiang Kai-shek (1887–1975) was one of the most influential and controversial figures in modern Chinese and Taiwanese history. As leader of the Republic of China and head of the Kuomintang (KMT), he fought against warlords, resisted the Japanese invasion, and later lost the Chinese Civil War to the Communists. In 1949, he retreated to Taiwan, where he established a new government and began shaping the island’s modern political and economic development.

The Taipei 101 World Trade Center is one of Taipei’s most iconic landmarks, rising 508 meters above the city with its bamboo-inspired design. Completed in 2004, it was once the world’s tallest building and remains famous for its innovative engineering, including a massive internal damper that stabilizes the tower during typhoons and earthquakes. Normally I could not resist the Observation Deck but in this case the best view of the city including the tower is from the nearby Elephant Mountain. The best thing is that it's free. Well, not completely free — I have to pay for it with a 25-minute sweaty hike up countless stairs. But the view is worth every drop of sweat.

As the sun slowly drops behind the skyline, the city transforms minute by minute. Warm orange light softens the sharp edges of the high-rises, and then, almost unnoticed, the first lights begin to flicker on below. The view keeps changing — from glowing rooftops to a sparkling sea of streets and buildings — while people around me fall silent, simply watching.

Taipei 101 from street level

After enjoying the amazing view over the city, I take a bus to explore the colorful chaos of the Raohe Street Night Market – one of the oldest and most loved night markets in the city.

Compared to some of Taipei’s larger markets, Raohe is said to be refreshingly compact and local. A single long street is packed tightly with food stalls, sizzling grills, glowing lanterns and the constant rhythm of people weaving through the crowd. The smells alone guide you forward – peppery beef buns fresh from clay ovens, bubbling noodle soups, grilled seafood and sweet desserts that seem impossible to ignore. My favourite food are the peppery beef buns sold at a stall right by the entrance to the market. They are definitely worth the 10-minute wait in the long but fast-moving queue. The thing I like most about the market is the huge variety of unique foods on sale. Usually, many stalls in those markets sell the same things, but here it feels like every stall sells something unique.

The nearby temple sets a beautiful contrast to the busy market atmosphere and reminds me how deeply daily life, food culture and tradition are connected here in Taiwan.

Visiting Dihua Street in early in the morning feels like stepping into a calmer, more intimate version of the city.

At this hour, the street is still gently waking up. Shop owners slowly roll up their shutters, delivery scooters stop briefly in front of traditional stores, and the smell of dried herbs, tea leaves and spices drifts through the narrow lanes. Dihua Street is famous for its long history as a trading street, and you can still feel that heritage in the old shopfronts selling traditional medicine, dried seafood, fabrics and festive decorations.

Comparing Daily Live

Having visited China several times, and now Japan and Taiwan, it's interesting to experience the similarities and differences in daily life. Sometimes they are distinct, and sometimes they are very obvious.

Experiencing daily life across China, Japan and Taiwan feels like moving through three very different rhythms of modern Asia — even though history, food culture and shared traditions connect them in many ways.

In China, everyday life is fast, dense and highly pragmatic. Cities operate at an impressive scale, and daily routines are shaped by efficiency: mobile payments, delivery services and digital platforms are deeply embedded into almost every small interaction. Public spaces feel energetic and often loud, and communication tends to be direct and purpose-driven. Life moves quickly — and you are expected to keep up.

Japan, by contrast, feels highly structured and quietly disciplined. Daily life is guided by clear social rules: queuing is strict, public transport is extremely organized, and people are very mindful of personal space. Even in busy areas, behavior remains controlled and respectful. Convenience stores, punctual trains and a strong service culture make everyday life smooth and predictable. There is comfort in this order — and a strong sense that everyone plays their part.

Taiwan sits gently between both worlds. Daily life feels noticeably slower and more relaxed than in China, and less formally structured than in Japan. People are polite, patient and approachable, and everyday interactions — in shops, cafés or night markets — often include small smiles and casual conversations. There is less visible pressure to perform or conform, and public life feels softer and more personal.

One of the biggest differences becomes visible in how people share space. In Japan, rules guide behavior. In China, speed and practicality dominate. In Taiwan, social harmony and flexibility seem to matter most. Even small things — like how people line up, speak in public, or deal with mistakes — reveal these deeper cultural patterns.

For a traveler, these contrasts shape the entire experience. China impresses with scale and momentum. Japan reassures with precision and reliability. Taiwan wins hearts with warmth and ease. And while all three societies are modern, urban and technologically advanced, daily life in each place tells a very different story about how people choose to live together.

Departure

An unspectacular flight with China Airlines brings me back to Frankfurt.

Finals Words

It’s a bit of a shame that my stopover in Taipei was so short. The more I learned about Taiwan, the clearer it became that the country has far more to offer than just its capital – especially when it comes to landscapes, mountains and hiking opportunities that lie well beyond the city limits.

As a stopover destination, Taipei works very well for two – maybe up to three – days. It is easy to get around, culturally interesting and pleasantly relaxed. Still, being honest, if this were my very first trip to East Asia, I would probably recommend other major cities in the region first – such as Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto or Seoul.

For first-timers, these cities simply offer a broader and more immediately striking overall package – from world-famous sights and iconic neighborhoods to a wider range of large-scale attractions.

Where Taipei truly stands out, however, is its street food culture. The variety, creativity and everyday accessibility of food stalls and night markets feel genuinely unique. Eating here is not just a practical part of travel – it becomes a daily highlight and a very authentic way to connect with local life.

In the end, my short stay in Taipei left me with mixed but positive feelings: it is a great city for a compact stopover, especially if you love discovering food and local neighborhoods. But it also made me realize that Taiwan deserves a longer, slower journey – one that goes beyond the capital and into the island’s impressive natural landscapes.