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Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

17 days from Kharthoum to Cairo in February/March 2022

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

July 31^st, 2022

Motivation

The Egyptian history, the Nile River... Egypt has been on my bucket list for quite some time, but somehow I never made it. Sudan came on my list when a fellow traveller on my São Tomé trip told me about the stunning time he had in Sudan, sleeping in a tent between pyramids without any tourists in sight and having great encounters with extremely friendly locals. On my more recent trip to Chad Sven, our guide, who also works as guide in Sudan, highly recommended a trip too, saying Sudan is now what Egypt was forty years ago in terms of tourism. As Sudan seemed to be on the upgrade on the touristic world map, I thought I'd rather go now than later.

Fortunately Marcus, my old travel buddy, could convince his family that it’s time again for a "boys" trip. A tour organized by Diamir, my favourite travel company, offered a combination of Sudan and Egypt, following the river Nile. That sounded very promising!

Itinerary

After some research, we extend the standard itinerary of Diamir by three extra days. One in Meroë, to have some more time at the famous pyramids, one in Karima and one in Aswan. We also decide to arrive Friday morning instead Saturday in order to join the Sufi dance that takes place every Friday afternoon. Looking back to the tour, all in all a good decisions, although an extra day in Cairo would have been nice as well.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

UPS Bashing

The message comes with a shock: UPS has lost Marcus' passport on its way from the visa service. We had pictured lots of things causing a cancellation of the trip: COVID-19, a military putsch, delayed visa... but a document lost by UPS was not on the list!

Marcus gives hell to UPS, but beside knowing that the package got into a delivery van, they don't even know which van and driver, so they contact 130 of them - without success message.

A new passport and visa within four days: no chance. The next two days we clarify our options with Diamir, and finally come to the conclusion that - considering the cancellation fees for the complete tour - it would be best if I went alone.

Shame on you UPS, shame, Shame, SHAME!

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan Facts

Population: around 45 million
Size: 1,886,000 km²
Capital: Khartoum
Biggest City: Omdurman 2.4 million people
Main Languages: Arabic, English
Currency: Sudanese pound (SDG) , 1 EUR = 518 SDG (02/2022)

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

My flight with Egypt Air departs 20 min late, otherwise it's OK. Great, the middleseat is not occupied. The transit in Cairo from Terminal 2 to 3 is a bit confusing, as there are no signs, but the staff is friendly. So it works at the end. The flight to Khartoum is on time. To my surprise, the have changed my seat to an exit row, so I have ample space.

The entry procedure is fast. The building looks a bit run-down, not very representative. It takes a while until the luggage arrives, but I'm glad when I finally see my bag. I exchange 20 €, then outside a driver is already waiting to bring me to the Khartoum Plaza Hotel. F…., when I try to open the car door I suddenly have the handle in my hand. Ok, ok, I have to calm down my Teutonic power with the local cars. The room in the hotel is big enough for a complete Sudanese family, but a bit run-down. The bed is hard, but it's already 4 am, so who cares!

Breakfast is in a dark room but surprisingly diverse. I ask for a view from the top and a boy brings me up. Even the view from above can't hide it: Khartoum is not a very appealing city. Some areas look like war zones.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

At 9.00 h Mudathir, my guide for the day in Kharthoum, arrives. We drive along the presidential palace. Taking pictures out of the car is OK but we can't stop. Finally, we stop at the old port on the Blue Nile. An English ship from the 1920s is a kind of landmark, but not very spectacular. Next, we go to the National Museum. In front of the building I'm asked to look at some paintings for sale. The artists are obviously friends of Mudathir. They are not pushy, and I'm invited to a tea, having a nice chat. Then the museums guide gives me a tour. The inside of the museum has been closed for 1.5 years. Outside, there are some sculptures and temples from Wadi Halfa. Well, for 30 min. OK, and the guide is really nice.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

After a break of two hours in the hotel, we start again in the afternoon. First, we walk through the city to the Grand Mosque and than further to the exclusive Corintha Hotel, from where we have a nice view from the top over the Nile. The weather is pleasant: not too hot and with a cooling wind. Much more comfortable than in Chad back in October 2021.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We take the car to drive over the Nile to Omdurman, the sister city of Khartoum. From the bridge I can see the rather unspectacular confluence of the Blue and White Nile. After lunch we visit a market. People are friendly and I'm often asked for pictures. Unfortunately, we have to hurry to get to the Sufi Dance.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We visit the Al-Iman Al-Mahdi tomb. Al-Iman Al-Mahdi was the holy leader of the Sudanese revolt at the end of the 19th century, when Sudan won its independence from Egypt.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Then we move on for the Sufi Dance, which is already in progress when we arrive. Every Friday afternoon the Sufi ceremony at the Hamed el Nil Tomb brings together worshippers who come together to sing, chant and praise Allah together, as well as onlookers and tourists, who are welcome to observe the ceremony and take pictures. But I can only see a handful.

I like the energetic, mystic and overall friendly atmosphere, which doesn't fail to draw you in.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In the morning I meet Al Hadi, who will be my driver guide for the next days until the border to Egypt. He is 59, married, has three kids and looks deeply and soundly relaxed.

We make a short detour to the local agengy to pick up a new water pump for the Hotel in Meroë which is also owned by Raydan Touristic. "Great" I think, "at least I'll have running water". I have a longer chat with the owner who - before the COVID-19 times - visited Germany almost every year. He believes that the current Sudanese military government would give back the power to the parliament in a while. But for now it was good that they are in power, as it was difficult to moderate the different groups in Sudan, which are often controlled by warlords who follow whoever pays the most. The offered coffee with ginger tastes interesting and after two, three sips I decide to like it. Before Naqa, we stop at a roadhouse. I’m fascinated how they burn frankincense to keep the flies away from the meat. Then a charismatic guy comes over and introduces himself as the owner of the place. He looks like a warlord right out of the movie "Laurence from Arabia". He proudly shows me around several times, mentioning how clean everything was - and indeed, measured by Sudanese standards, it’s quite OK. He also insists that I test a soup (yummy) and finally poses for a picture with me, making sure the roadhouse sign with his name on it is in the background. I didn't expect such an entertaining stop.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Al Hadie seems to interpret his role more as a driver than as a guide. Arriving in Naqa he only says: "This is Naqa, you go there, then there, and I will wait over there for you." My question about how old the ruins are is answered with a detailed: "very old". Well, I don’t mind. This way I can fully concentrate on taking photos and will later read about the history in the guidebook. The ruins are quite impressive, especially the carvings. An Italian tour group of eight people also visits the site. It will be the only group I see the next days until we arrive in Egypt.

By the way: the different Meroitic temples in Naqa date back to the 4th century BC to the 4th century AD.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Musawwarat, just half an hour away from Naqa, is a bit less impressive. This time, an old gatekeeper shows me around. I tip him with 200 Pounds as suggested by Al Hadi, but the old chap is not happy and is muttering around. I give him another 200 and ask him to pose for a picture, what he now gladly does.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Next, we drive to Meroë, arriving just in time for the golden hour. Meroë was the capital of the Kingdom of Kush from around 590 BC until the sixth century AD. The site is marked by more than 200 pyramids, many of them in ruins. The main area is fenced. There is a small museum and some souvenir stalls as you would typically expect from a UNESCO World Heritage site. Some camels are lying around and I’m asked by the guides if I want to make a tour. Taking pictures from a wavering desert ship does not sound very promising to me, so to the obvious disappointment of the guides I reject - understandable, as this afternoon I’m the only tourist.

The scenery in the golden light is mesmerising, except for the power lines in the background which can be seen from some viewing angles.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Looking at the quantity of food at the dinner table in the Raidan Tourist Village, they must have expected a tour group and not a single traveller. Nevertheless the food is really tasty, while the atmosphere is kinda strange. Before COVID-19, the hotel was always full with dozens of people in the peak season, I’m told. But now it’s just me. I feel a bit lost.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

I’ve asked Al Hadi to start early at 5:45 am for the sunrise, hoping that he does take it halfway seriously. At 5:30 am I already hear the car engine warming up. Wow, that’s how I like it! Again, I have Meroë for myself, crazy. I feel like Indiana Jones discovering an ancient civilisation. The ruins in the soft morning light are breathtaking. It’s even better than in the afternoon, as the light is now coming from the front. Closer up, the ruins are less spectacular, as there are only few reliefs to see.

The museum consists of about eight tables that explain the site. That’s it. I have to observe the souvenirs, some daggers, broken armlets and cheep bracelets. I'm sorry for the guys, business is not good but I really need nothing. At 9:30 h, we are back already.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

A lonely warden is taking care of the site. Not a busy job nowadays, so he is mostly sitting around overlooking the scenery.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

After a short rest I walk over to the exclusive Meroë tented camp owned by an Italian company, where I have a nice conversation with the young lady manager, who speaks very good English and shows me around. They have started to build bungalows instead of the tents. The tents are disassembled during the summertime. She tells me about the gold fields in Tumbus where she comes from and that a lot of people got rich with the Nubien Gold. In 2019, the camp was completely booked out during this time and now there are almost no guests at all. We also talk about the political situation, and she doesn't believe that the military will accept an election in 2023 as planned. A smart lady, I enjoy the conversation - and obviously she as well, as she is very talkative.

The two camps are only one kilometre away from each other, but two different worlds in terms of luxury and of course price. For me, Raidan is perfectly Ok.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In the afternoon, we visit the other pyramid site, which is across the main road. It's far less impressive and obviously not often visited. After that, we go again to the main site. I try some new perspectives from behind, etc. Then I meet Sofie with her mother Claudia. Sofie works for the EU in Kharthoum for a democratic support programme. Her mother is on a visit for twelve days and they are on a four-days trip, just coming from Karima. Later, at the viewpoint, Sofie tells me about her work. Also she thinks that the military regime is playing for time, not really wanting to give back the power. There are still regular protests, but the military regime manages to keep the casualties low, trying to avoid sanctions. The situation is critical, as there are also several warlords with troops. Additional fighters from Libya and Jemen are returning with weapons but no jobs. They were well paid by the Saudis, 1,000 € a month. So Darfur again becomes a critical place.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

I have breakfast at sunrise and a view towards the pyramids. Not bad. A long driving day is ahead of us. We have a ginger coffee on the way in Atbara. To my surprise, the coffee lady agrees when I ask for a portrait. Nice. The typical price for coffee is 500 Pounds, approx. 0.5 €. It's served in a small glas and quite strong. I like it.

Our Toyota Landcruiser is spacious but a bit run-down. The automatic window opens in slowmotion, if at all, the doors sometimes decide not to work, same with the starter, so the car needs to be pushed. Fortunately, there are always people around to support, including myself.

The drive through the desert is quite boring. Highlights of the three-hours drive from Atbara to Karima are a traffic warning sign "Fibre cable" (eh - in the middle of the desert?!) and three camels trying to organise a road block.

We have lunch at a simple restaurant. The meat doesn’t look so appealing to me, but the aubergine and potato stew looks good and also tastes well. Everything is served on a huge plate.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Ahead of Karima, we make a detour to Nuri, to see the old pyramids there. From the ground, the rumbled pyramids are a bit disappointing, especially in the harsh light. I climb on a hill and - to my surprise! - the view over the Nile and the pyramids is really gorgeous. Later Al Hadi tells me that this is officially not allowed and that normally a police guy takes care of the sight. I wonder why then there is an obvious path to the top.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

After we have checked into the Nubien House in Karima, we drive the 15 km to El Kurru, to see an underground tomb with colourful paintings. Ok, but not spectacular, especially compared to the Valley of the Kings in Egypt, which really will blow me away later on this trip (see below ;-)). Nevertheless, it's fascinating, considering the age of the paintings dating back to around 900 BC.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We reach Jebbel Barkal (387 m), the house mountain of Karima, just on time for sunset. I climb up a rocky side in 20 minutes - and later down a sand dune on the far side in three minutes. A big natural cinema on top awaits me. The 360 degrees panorama with the Nile, pyramids, the city and desert is breathtaking. Lots of locals and lots of fun! I actually like the mountain so much, that I decide to occupy it with personal markings. Thanks to the food at lunchtime no problem, backwards and forwards if you understand what I mean. I spare you the details. Alas, today only fruit juice for dinner.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Very basic but clean is my Nubien Guesthouse where I stay for two nights. It's run by a humble owner, who enjoys posing for some portraits together with Al Hadi.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Al Hadi suggests driving to Old Dongula today, coming back to Karima, and taking a shorter route to Karma and Tumbus tomorrow. Looking at the map, it does not look significantly shorter, as Old Dongula is already half way to Kerma, but nevertheless I agree, asking Al Hadi to start already 5:30 am, i.e. shortly before sunrise in order to still have the soft morning light arriving in Old Dongola. First, he hesitates, but then replies he would wait in the car from 5:00 am on (tough guy 👍).

Punctually at 5:30 am we start, and despite the good road which is occasionally completely or partly covered by sand dunes, it takes us two hours for the 130 km, so we arrive around 7:30 am when the soft morning light already starts to vanish. I take some pictures of the strange-looking tombs at a huge graveyard before we head on to the back of the huge area.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

At first, I'm a bit disappointed, taking the long drive into account. There is an information booth with few and partly destroyed information boards, a fortress-like structure which was a throne room and became a mosque I later learn and some granite pillars which are remains from old churches.

Old Dongola was the capital of the Christian Kindom of Makourie and believed to be founded around 400 AD, starting as a fortress. It had it's golden period in the 11 th century, covering an area of 2.6 x 0.9 km, but lost its importance when the Kindom in the 13th century started to decay, when the Nubian emperors converted to Islam.

A Hadi tells me to walk up a small hill and…. wow! ….there is the Nile just in front of me with some more structures and an excavation going on. A dozen or so people work on the site, dig here, dig there, take measurement, etc. They are fully covered as protection from the dust and the sun. Immediately I find myself in a kind of Indiana Jones mood. When I look at the ground I can identify pieces of pottery and engraved stones. They are just scattered around. I'm approaching a second excavation site when a lady comes over, presenting herself as the Sudanese inspector of the excavation. We have a short chat, then she starts explaining me the whole site and the ongoing excavation. It's funded and run by a Polish institute and has been going on for five years already, although only in winter time.

I learn that the currently already excavated visible structures were living quarters on top of an much older church. So in some sections they dig deeper now. It's digging through the centuries. With her explanations the whole area becomes alive.

All in all a long but worthwhile detour.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Back in Karima I have a look around the Nubian House run by the same Italian company as the camp in Meroë. I enjoy a small 5 USD 😮 fruit juice on the terrace. Beautiful place but deserted, as there are just occasional guest currently.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

After a rest in my much more real-life Nubian Guesthouse (while Al Hadi repairs the starter and the door lock of the car), we visit the temple ruins in front of Jebel Barkal and make a stop at the Nile. I'm tired today, so I have an early dinner (Pizza) before I fall into my bed.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

This morning we visit the market, which starts at around 7:30 am. As always, I'm cautious about taking pictures of people. I walk around, say "Hello" or "Salam Aleikum" and show interest in the things to see. The positive reactions and smiles makes me more confident, so I ask if I could take pictures and soon find myself invited to a coffee by the owner of a butchery. I learn how to differentiate the carcass of a goat from a sheep by the tale (long and short), indicating myself as a novice. Now other people come over, wanting to say "Hello". Who speaks little English tries it out: "Where are you from?", "You like Sudan?", "How long you are here?", ... I try the few Arabic phrases I've learned, immediately generating smiles, hopefully not because of the bad accent or saying something stupid. As of course the whole street is observing the event with the stranger, now taking pictures is easy and people proudly pose, even the coffee lady, to my surprise. I feel very welcome - Sudanese people are fantastic!

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

The 170 km from Karima to Dongola are mostly flat boring desert, sometimes interrupted by a broadcast tower. The road is excellent.

We make a roadside stop at the only green patch on the way to have a coffee. Ali, the owner, lives with his wife and his three kids in Dongola, 50 km away. During the week, he sleeps here and works at a small patch of field to grow grass for animals. He has a water pump run by a generator. Drinking water is stored in huge clay pots which keep the water cool. I discover even an old tractor in his backyard. His small roadside store is just an additional business, for the few people that stop on the way. From time to time tourist stay overnight on their cycling tour through the desert. "Wow, tough guys!", comes to my mind.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

From Dongola to Kerma the landscape is much greener, as we are now following the Nile. Fields of local weed, beans and grass are occasionally interrupted by groves of date palms or small villages.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In Kerma we stop at the Museum which shows the history of the region, starting with the first human settlements about 8,000 BC, followed by the Kindom of Kerma 2,000 BC, a shorter Egyptian period around 1,300 BC, followed by Napata, the Kindom of Meroe around 0, the Christian Kindom of Makourie 1,000 AD which later became Islamic at the times of modern Islam. The highlights are well preserved statues of the "Black Pharaos" from the Egyptian period. I find it quite informative with good English explanations, especially as Al Hadis historical knowledge is quite limited. Definitely worth a stop.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

On a bad road we drive to Tumbus to see another statue lying on the ground. Al Hadi explains that the statue was knocked over by the villagers a long time ago, as many women worshipped it as a god of fertility, instead of praying to Allah.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Another 50 km further, we visit the 3rd Nile cataract. There is a great overview from the top of a hill with an old fortress. Unfortunately the sun is coming from the wrong direction. Definitely a morning spot.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

I would like to stay for the sunset, but as Al Hadi doesn't want to drive in the dark, which I can perfectly understand, we start earlier. Nevertheless, it takes longer than expected, as we are blinded by the low sun, before she finally sets. It gets dark quickly, and I keep an eye open for bumps, potholes or anything alive to support Al Hadi, as I feel a bit guilty. It's indeed dangerous to drive at night. Some vehicles or donkey carts have no lights, others seem to have laser beamers blinding the eyes. In the villages, there are plenty of pedestrians but no sidewalks nor street lights.

We make it at the end and are even rewarded by a beautiful afterglow over the Nile on the way.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

BBQ chicken for dinner, yummy.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Tonight we are staying at the Al Dufufa tourist Resort in Kerma, with surprisingly comfortable rooms and even a hot shower. There are some local tourists but no foreigners.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We have a breakfast coffee at the market, then I have a closer look. It doesn't take long until I find myself in a first chats. I make only slow progress in exploring the market, at the end I had three coffee invitations, which I kindly refused, two sweet bars the owner eagerly refused payment for, and countless pictures, at least 50% taken by request. Only two times a picture was refused when I asked for it. Unfortunately, the spoken English is quite basic and does not allow for deeper discussions about daily life or politics, with the exception of some smart youngsters who seem to be interested in everything, in particular in Arnold Schwarzenegger. In just 20 min, we cover my travel itinerary, other countries we've been to (one of them was in India), our jobs, world politics (the war in Ukraine), local politics in Germany and Sudan, social differences regarding marriage and having children, the local custom of henna tattoos in a wedding ceremony (one of them had painted hands so I had to ask), football and favourite actors which of course brings us back to Arnold Schwarzenegger. Funny.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

To get to the other side of the Nile, we have to drive back to Dongula, what looks not very appealing. We have lunch at a very busy place. I have Foul, the national dish made of beans, together with bread. Simple and tasty, but no culinary dream.

The 130 km to Soleb are mostly boring desert landscape, occasionally interrupted by a roadside store or a simple gasoline station.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Soleb is a quite dusty little village. The guesthouse is the most authentic Nubian House I've been to. Old buildings with thick walls that help to keep it cool inside. Everything is very basic but clean. The 70 years old friendly owner, who always smiled according to Al Hadi and was mentioned in a guidebook, unfortunately died two month ago. The guesthouse is now run by his son.

The Tempel of Soleb is next to the guesthouse. It's quite windy and there is a lot of dust in the air, so I wonder how the light will be in the afternoon. As it's too early, I have a rest.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In the later afternoon, I take a walk through the fields along the Nile and finally find a spot where I can reach the river bed. I sit down and put my feet into the water. It's surprisingly cold. A roughly 300 m wide band along the river is green and cultivated with weed, beans, grass for the animals, etc. The cultivated patches are clearly separated by each other, so they seem to have different owners.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In the evening I have a longer chat with Achmed, the owner of the guesthouse. He has studied Englisch translation in Kharthoum and worked for two years in Saudi Arabia. He also tells me that from time to time he goes gold digging in the desert: they rent a caterpillar, dig out stones, sometimes up to 15 m deep, crash the stones and bind the gold with mercury. Hi says sometimes they make 50 g a day, sometimes 150 g or up to 1 kg. It's hard for me to believe, as I wonder where the money goes, considering the basic living conditions. He wants to build a luxury resort when he has saved enough, he replies.

I wake up before sunrise to visit the temple again. It's really fresh and I need a jumper. Again, the sun is visible only later due to the dust. Nevertheless, I like the morning atmosphere.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We take a roadside coffee, not without some picture-taking and by 9 o'clock we are on our way to the Sudan-Egypt border. The road and border crossing are just three years old, and accordingly there are no villages or even roadside stops, nor any phone signal along the three-hours drive. Even for Al Hadi it's the first time.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We arrive shortly before 12 pm at the Argeen Boarder Crossing. The border is more than chaotic. No signs at all and we don't know where to go. Suddenly, we see a guy waving to us and we drive over. Al Hadi talks to him and says he will take care of me. His name is Asim but his English is quite limited. I say farewell to Al Hadi. Although he is not very knowledgable about history, I enjoyed the trip with him, as he has managed to give me a good picture of Sudan and the Sudanese people today. Besides, he was always reliable, a save driver and extremely patient in teaching me some phrases in Arabic. Thank you very much, Al Hadi!!!

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Ok, now it‘s time to tell you about the craziest border crossing I ever had. I could fill a complete book with it but will try to keep it short.

First, Asim brings me to a Corona vaccination check in a room that is hard to describe as a room at all and would have been impossible to find without him. As prayer time starts, I have to wait for 45 min. It’s fascinating, every single soul at the border is praying, well, except me. I feel like an alien. After that, Asim asked if I want some food (no thx), then we walk outside and I‘m invited to a coffee and talk to some locals. The border is not open yet. Communication is not easy, as English is rarely spoken. As I need to exchange Euros to Egyptians Pounds for the entry fee, Asim brings me to at least five guys until someone is willing to exchange for Euros. Everyone else only wants US dollars. The rate is 20% below the official one, but I need to exchange only 30 Euros so I accept. Next, Asim brings me to an office, greeting almost everyone we meet on the way. The office is full of waiting people, but Asim seems to know all the officials here at the border and we never have to queue up. I have no clue what we are doing here, but we get some papers after Asim showed my passport. Through an unofficial backdoor we enter another official-looking area, obviously to get my passport stamped. We are not in front but behind the counter and I accidentally shut down the computer of the officer taking care of us by touching the PC cable slightly with my foot. How embarrassing. It takes almost 10 min until everything is up and running again. The exit fee is 5,000 Pounds, damn I have only 4,500 left as I thought it’s 3,500. The generous 2 US dollars I offer are not accepted - it needs to be Sudanese Pounds. Again, we go for exchange, but 1 US dollar notes are not accepted. I need to exchange 10 Euros, then we go back and finally I get my exit stamp. Now I need to wait for the bus to the Egypt side, which should go around 3 pm. Although only a few hundred meters, walking is not allowed. In the meantime, I understand that Asim is a border fixer, as he asks for 50 US dollars. I give him 10 Euros, saying this is fair enough. After several trials to get more, he finally accepts. Everything comes with a lot of laughter and even picture taking. What a crazy guy, I like him and honestly without him I would have been lost in this chaos here.

Now I have to wait at customs for another 1.5 hours, as it’s again prayer time in between. The busses are coming all the way from Khartoum and are full with locals. For the few hundred meters I’m asked to pay 5 US dollars by the driver, which after hard negotiation I bring down to 3 US dollars. It’s not the money but the feeling to get ripped off that makes me bargain hard. At the end, I have no other option. Around 4:30 pm, the bus finally leaves towards the Egyptian border, where we have to wait again 30 min at the gate. Several officers check passports and Corona vaccination. In a low voice, I’m asked for one US dollar as a gift. When I friendly but clearly reply: "One dollar for what?" the officer goes one. The driver collects money, I need to pay 200 Egyptian Pound. I refuse, as I think I need the exchanged 420 Pounds as entry fee later and this was a bribe for the officers to let us in, but he insists and as everyone else also pays I give him the money. Later, I find out that this was already the entry fee. 200 instead of the expected 420 Pound. Well, a nice surprise. But neither the guidebook nor Diamir were correct regarding the fees. Of course, I wouldn't wonder if that changes daily, as everything at this border feels a bit erratic.

The Egyptian side is much better organised. Customs is very serious, and after scanning my big bag precisely the customs officer asks me to show my medicine, knife, camera and iPad. I expect the worst, thinking they are out for a "gift". They closely examine my medicine, checking for drugs I guess, then inspect my camera. Everything seems to be fine, beside my Swiss army knife which they keep despite my protest that I could easily buy a far bigger knife in any hardware store in Egypt. They even call their boss by phone but it doesn’t change anything. Not allowed, I can’t keep it. Despite the situation, the atmosphere is friendly and the officer several time excuses that they had to keep the knife.

For the passport stamp, I have to wait again 30 min. Already outside the building, I’m called to come back as a chief officer needs to check again. Waiting with the other passengers for the bus, which is searched in the meantime, I see two people walking to the gate. I start walking as well. After 100 m, I hear loud shoutings behind me, but decide to ignore it, I have waited long enough! After a while, they give up and no one follows me.

Approaching the final gate, I already see a guy waving to me from the other side. It’s Nur, my guide in Egypt and I'm really glad to see him. I need to wait another 30 min. The chief officer at the gate is praying, I wonder what the three other guys are for. I talk to a young military guy who has studied English literature and is now at the military service. I get a tea for free, then finally - after the return of the chief officer who checks the documents - I can go through the gate. The bus has not yet arrived. It’s already getting dark. It took me more than six hours, but I made it! The most challenging and longest border crossing of my live. And yes, this was just the short version of the whole experience!

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Facts

Population: around 103 million
Size: 1,010,000 km²
Capital: Cairo
Biggest City: Cairo, 10 million people
Main Languages: Arabic
Currency: Egyptian Pound, 100 EGP = 5.6 EUR (02/2022)

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Nur speaks excellent German, although he has never been to Germany. He studied German at University. During the 1.5h drive to Abu Simbel, we talk about a lot of things and I have the feeling we will have a good time the coming days. In Abu Simbel, I have chicken for dinner. For 7 € - around double the price I was used in Sudan.

At 8:30 pm we finally arrive at the Eskaleh Nubian Ecolodge - and gee! - I like that place. It looks like you expect a Nubian Guesthouse should look like, at least from an touristic point of view. Nice architecture, nice decoration without being overly fancy or corny, clean and in addition a comfortable bed and a well-equipped bathroom with a hot shower. Also the owner and his staff are very friendly. Would have loved to stay here one more day!

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We start early this morning to Abu Simbel, as the temple already opens at 6.00 am and I'd like to be there before too many people arrive. Although not busy at that time, I see more tourists in the first 10 minutes than in the complete seven days in Sudan, with one group of eight people and two individuals.

The temple was built by Ramses II and is beautifully lit in the morning light. I'm really stunned. Also the inside is impressive, with statues and beautiful wall inscriptions illuminated by indirect light. Well done! The smaller temple dedicated to his favourite wife Nefertari is impressive as well. But most stunning to me is how they managed to disassemble and assemble the temples on higher ground from 1964 to 1968 due to the rising water of Lake Nasser caused by the High Dam. What looks like a real hill in fact is fake. It's a concrete dome with a rock face, covering the temple.

The way back is lined with souvenir stalls. Every shopman tries to steer me into his store, but I'm not interested and fortunately they are not too pushy or get unfriendly.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We stop at the High Dam, which is strongly secured by the military. No wonder: if destroyed, the flood emptying Lake Nasser with his 500 km length and up to 180 m depth would within 24 hours run through Kairo and Alexandria, erasing everything on its way. The dam was build with support of the Soviet Union. It's 3 km long, 980 m wide on its base and 40 m on its crown. Material of the equivalent of 14 Gizeh pyramids was used to build it.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In the afternoon, after a 4 hours drive to Aswan, we visit Philea Temple. It's a temple from the Greek period (Alexander the Great). Not as spectacular as Abu Simbel, but nice and it comes with a boat ride.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

I ask Nur about a picture in the guidebook which shows a spectacular view over Aswan and the Nile. After a chat with the driver, we take a detour uphill through a less appealing neighbourhood and finally stop at an old run-down Nubian guesthouse. The view from the terrace is almost like in the guidebook. I wonder why the guesthouse was given up, as the location is spectacular. An old man shows me around the building for a small tip. Renovating the place would definitely have potential.

In Aswan we walk through the souk. In a herb shop a guy starts talking in German and we find ourselves in an interesting 30 min discussion about all the world and his wife, including also a tea invitation. He was married to a Swiss lady and now enjoys practicing his German again.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

My guesthouse for tonight is basically a complete simple flat as used by a local family. The owners are really nice and the view of the main land is fantastic. I immediately like it. The food at the King Jamaica (same family) is excellent and the owner very funny and cool. He was in a Reggae band and even toured around the world. I really like this place!

In the evening, I walk through the Nubien villages at Elephantine. It's already dark and quiet but I feel save and welcome here. Back at home, I enjoy the view over the Nile to the busy main city. Two different worlds.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In the morning, I go for another walk on the island, starting with the archeological area in the south, where excavations are going on. It's fine walking around the island, however it's less impressive compared to many other ruins Egypt has to offer.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

The archeological area offers a good view towards the Agha-Khan-Mausoleum located on the west bank of the Nile, which is closed for visitors.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Some of the houses on the island are colourfully painted.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

I have some nice chats with friendly locals.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Next, I walk through the southern village and have an early lunch at the Ibiza restaurant with a view towards the Botanical Garden Island. There is no ferry, and they ask 150 EGP for a motorboat. To steep for the 500 m each way. At the end I pay 100 EGP for both ways. Still steep.

The botanical garden is nice, the contrast to the bare land on the other side couldn't be larger. Also local tourists with their families enjoy the garden. I offer to take a group foto of a family, in return they ask me to pose for pictures together with them. Sweet.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Back at the guesthouse, the owner asks me why I'm late. I'm confused, telling him I asked if I could stay until 3 pm and he agreed. A misunderstanding, as he understood 3 hours, meaning until 11 am. The new guest, a dentist from Alexandria and his family are already in the room, but the owner has locked the sleeping room with my stuff. The dentist is very polite and tells me to take my time. He speaks excellent English, as he was in an English-speaking school. Hi comes here for the treatment of his young son, who had two heart surgeries in Aswan by a famous doctor who has studied in Leeds.

We bring my stuff to the feluka, which lies already moored in front of the guesthouse. The two captains Mustafa and Murat are already on board and are very accommodating and friendly. Mustafa speaks excellent English and Murat a bit as well. We wait for Nur and then we start 3:30 pm. The felluka is huge and it can host 12 people. To my surprise, it even has a clean toilet on board! A great idea from JJ Jamaika, as his Felukas are the only ones with toilets I learn. Now he owns six of them. A Feluka for my own with guide and two captains, how luxurious is that? Nevertheless, it's one of the places were - together with a friend - the experience would have been especially rewarding . Shortly after the start, we have a very tasty lunch. Spaghetti with a kind of bolognese sauce and salad, prepared by Mustafa. I’m surprised of the quality. Unfortunately, we have no wind and can only drift. We are not making it far this day and almost in sight of the city we have to moor in a not very appealing place. I hope that we have wind tomorrow, as Nur mentions that one time they had to be pulled back to Aswan, as there was no wind also the second day.

The crew encloses the feluka with a Mosquito net and light protection for better sleep. Wow, very comfortable! Dinner is tasty again. The crew is fantastic, we laugh a lot. They couldnˋt be any better, I feel extremely comfortable with them.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

I've had a good sleep when I wake up before sunrise. It's misty and the sun shows up only 30 min after sunrise. Fortunately, there is wind this morning. The crew wakes up rather late and we set sail only after breakfast around 9:00 am. I wonder, as after yesterday it's still a long way to go. But with the wind today we make very good progress. The sailing is very enjoyable. The temperature is perfect, sometimes I relax below deck, sometimes on top, having a chat with the crew or enjoying the scenery along the Nile. We listen to Bob Marley from my iPhone and they love it. I feel so comfortable with Mustafa, Murat and Nur that I wish we had one or two days longer together.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We arrive at Kom Ombo already 3:30 pm. Some bigger cruise ships are mooring at the temple. We visit the site today instead of tomorrow. The temple is dedicated to Seth (crocodile) and Horus (hawk). The place is quite busy and more and more ships arrive.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

When we leave I count a minimum of ten cruise ships. We decide to sail back a bit to find a good place for tonight. On the way we are overtaken by again a minimum of ten cruise ships. They all run to get a good mooring spot in Aswan. The scenery and atmosphere along the Nile during sunset is fantastic.

For dinner, Mustafa surprises me with a delicious and tender camel stew, after we talked about camel meet this morning. The taste is similar to beef. I ask how he managed to get it during the boat trip and he tells me that he has called a friend who delivered it when we moored at the river bench at lunch time today. How sweet is that! He really is a nice guy and an exceptional cook.

He explains that on Elephantine Island, everyone knows everyone and they are all related to each other. If there is a marriage, the whole Island is invited - 6,000 people, plus additional friends and family from the mainland. Sometimes, they have two or three weddings a week. Crazy.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

After another night I wistfully have to say farewell to the crew. I really like them and had so much fun! I expected that we sailed in the morning to Kom Ombo again to finish the tour, but the driver meets us directly at our overnight mooring.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Off we go at 8:00 am. We make a first stop a the local animal market of Kom Ombo, which takes place only once a week. We take a Tuk Tuk to the busy market. All kinds of animals are on sale: camels, cows, water buffalos, sheeps, donkeys, etc. To my surprise, people are very relaxed and friendly and picture-taking is no problem at all.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

The next stop is the Temple of Edfu, and I'm surprised that it's so empty. Most tourists arrive in the morning with the cruise ships and are gone in the early afternoon, I learn from Nur. He also knows a lot about the temples and history - quite a contrast to Al Hadi.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

After an total of seven hours, we finally arrive at Luxor. Detours are not possible, it's strictly regulated where as a tourist you can go and where not.

The Etap Arcan Hotel lies strategically well at the Cornice (promenade). Rooms are comfy. I go for a walk and a McDonalds stop along the Cornice and wonder why it's so empty. There are far less tourists than expected. I like the Cornice and watching the Felukas on the Nil.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In the evening, I'm collected for the light show at Karnak Temple, which is less busy and spectacular than expected. It's an old-fashioned light show, not a laser-show. I find it rather boring but if in Luxor, why not. It's 300 EGP. Tomorrow, an early start awaits me, as I have booked ride with a hot-air balloon.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

The alarm goes at 4:15 am. I have prepared everything, so 15min later I'm already on my way. Everything is perfectly organized, and 60 min later I'm already in the air, together with around 20 other hot-air balloons. Big business! It's a bit misty and I only get a short glimpse at the Hatseput Temple as we go away quickly and I'm on the wrong side. The scenery is not as dramatic as expected, and the highlight is rather the other hot-air balloons around us.

After 45 min it's already over and we land safely. All in all for 100 € a fair deal, considering that a hot-air balloon costs 120,000 € and a huge crew is required. Nevertheless, with 20 people in the gondola, the payoff shouldn't take too long.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Back in the hotel, I have a long breakfast and than relax, edit pictures and update my diary until 3 pm, when the Karnak and Luxor temples await me.

Karnak is enormous. It's the biggest theological temple in the world, where dozens of pharaos added their own constructions in more than 1,000 years. I especially like the 134 columns in the great hypostyle hall.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Luxor temple is especially nice after sunset as it's illuminated.

I have dinner at the Al Sahaby Lane Restaurant with a great view over Luxor temple. Beer, juice, tea and mezzo plate for just 9 €.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Again an early start. At 5:50 am we are already on our way to Theben-West. We have a first short stop at the 18 m high Colossi of Memnon, which are the last remains of Pharaoh Amemenhotep lll's Mortuary Temple, dating back to 1,350 BC. Ok for a stop on the way.

The next stop is the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut with three massive terraces. It's a huge structure, but otherwise not quite interesting, as many reliefs have been destroyed by her successor. The reason for this destruction is still unknown, as it happened 20 years after her death. It's here where in 1997 62 people, mostly tourists, were killed in a terroristic attack, seriously affecting the tourist industry for many years. Besides us only one bus it here at 6:30 am, and the morning sun gives a soft light.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Next is the Valley of the Kings, where between the 16th and the 15th century BC, rock-cut tombs were excavated for the pharaohs and nobles. So far, 63 tombs have been found, the most famous one being the tomb of Tutankhamun, the only one that was found untouched. Excavation on the site is still ongoing, and who knows what the future will bring.

In the normal entrance fee, three tombs are included, while some more can be visited for an extra fee. I decide to include the tomb of Ramses Vl for 100 EGP extra. Before this one, I visit the tomb of Merenpthah (KV8) - OK, Ramses lll (KV11) - very good and Ramses l (KV16) - very good following a suggestion by Nur. Although they are all interesting, the tomb for Ramses Vl is outstanding and worth every pound. I can only recommend to spend this extra money. First of all, the tomb is less crowded and secondly, it has beautiful carvings and preserved paintings, by far the best I've seen on the whole trip. The burial chamber is especially beautiful. It gives a good impression how the tomb must have looked like 3,500 years ago.

There is also a Valley of the Queens but it doesn't get any better than what can be seen here.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

At 10 am we are back at the Hotel, were I just get a late breakfast and say farewell to Nur who did a great job and was very professional. Tomorrow, in Kairo, another guide will await me.

After my ckeck-out at 02:00 pm, I go to the Luxor Museum, just to find out that it's closed between 13:00-17:00 hrs. Strange times. I decide to take the ferry to the West Bank instead (5 EGP, 1 EGP for locals) to spend some time at Wannas Art Cafe. The lentil soup and oriental salad is good and the gallery interesting. On the way back I just miss the public ferry. Some guys try to convince me to take a sail boat instead, and after a while, the price coming down to 50 EGP, I give in. It’s a small boat and the owners nickname is Jack Sparrow. It couldn’t fit better. He really sails over and despite the strong wind he manages it completely alone, although he has a lot to do. I decide that it was a worthwhile 20 min and give him 60 EGP, as I really respect his sailing skills.

The museum (140 EGP entrance fee) is not big but has some nice artefacts with good descriptions. Easy to spend an hour.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Around 8:00 pm, the same driver as in the morning picks me up, brings me to the train station, organises a chair and tea while we wait for the train at the platform (which is on time) and finally brings me to the right carrier and even into the cabin. As unusually not my travel style, I feel slightly embarrassed being cared for like a VIP. I have a cabin for my own, but it's a bit run-down, especially considering the high price of 120 US dollars shown on the ticket. A friendly steward brings me the included dinner, which is like airplane food: acceptable. He even wants to bring me a ladder for the upper bed, but hey I'm not that old. Tomorrow we should arrive around 9.00 am. Let's see how well I can sleep, it's a bumpy ride.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Despite the rumbling of the train, my sleep hasn't been bad. In the morning the steward brings me the breakfast and then suddenly hands me over his phone. Nur is on the line and wants to know if everything is OK. I wonder how he got the phone number of the steward. After a while, he tells me to prepare, as in 5 min we reached Gizeh. I expected that I have to go to Cairo Central, but he mentioned that he had already had contact with the guide waiting for me. How the hell are they doing this, I think. And indeed, a driver of the local agency is already waiting for me and takes over my luggage. Perfect organisation, couldn’t be better. Amir, my guide for Cairo, is waiting outside.

First, we visit the Egyptian National Museum, and Amir mentions several times that I’m lucky, as it’s Friday morning which means empty roads in the otherwise notoriously full streets of Cairo downtown. As the new Grand Egyptian Museum is still not open (not sure if they can beat the Berlin airport regarding missed opening dates but they are trying hard), the Museum, dating back to 1913, holds the most precious treasures of Egypt's history, especially the items found in the tomb of Tutankhamun, the only royal tomb that hasn't been raided. Some say the old museum has the charme of a junk room - and although not completely deniable, it’s still interesting, especially the artefacts from Tutankhamun. His inner coffin alone is made of more than 100 kg of gold. Incredible! Also his death mask is amazing. Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed in this section and the guard is on alarm, immediately scolding when someone shows the slightest intention to take a picture.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

After the museum visit, we drive to Saladins Citadel were we visit the impressive Muhammad Ali Mosque and the Madrasa des an-Nadir Muhammad. The view from here over Kairo all the way to the pyramids is epic. There are many youngsters around and getting a photo together with me seems to become a competition. I'm having fun, but Amir decides that it gets too much and shoos them away as the guards already eyeball the situation sceptically

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Next, we visit the Coptic quarter with plenty of churches, some reaching back to the 4th century. The area is the original home of the Coptic Christians, who form the majority of the Egyptian Christians. It is a very old section of Cairo with an interesting maze of ancient and modern churches and monasteries, set within the walls of a centuries-old fortress. Believed to be a part of Babylon, Coptic Cairo was founded in the 6th century BC and expanded by the Roman Emperor Trajan in AD 98.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

The coptic cemetery feels like a small city.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

On the way to the Arab quarter we see many buildings with strange structures on top. Pigeon towers I learn from Amir. They have been existing for thousands of years in the region. In earlier times, raising pigeons was a hobby for the rich. Now it’s the opposite. The more underprivileged and shabby the neighborhood is, the more likely you’ll find pigeon coops there. The old Arab quarter is full of life. It’s a sensual overload of old buildings with wooden balconies, narrow streets lined by all kinds of businesses, charming old cafes and eateries. The streets are full of people, honking cars, donkeys, etc. I don’t know what to look at first. Love it.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

In the evening, we drive back to Gizeh to join the pyramid light show. Honestly, like already in the Karnak temple in Luxor, I’m not impressed. The show feels outdated for my taste. Maybe I’m just not in the mood, as I get more and more stomach cramps during the show and finally decide to leave 15 min early, looking forward to the hotel.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

The Steigenberger Cairo Pyramids Hotel is the most luxurious accommodation during my trip, but by far not the most charming one. It’s just opposite the huge Grand Egyptian Museum which still is a big construction site and offers stunning views towards the pyramids. But honestly right now the only thing I’m really interested in is the porcelain section in my big bathroom. Fortunately, after two more hours, the cramps are gone.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

A great breakfast buffet awaits me at the Steigenberger this morning. At 8:00 am I meet Amir and the driver. As it’s raining, we decide to visit Sakara first. The Djoser Pyramid was the first manmade monumental stone structure in the world, dating back 2,500 BC.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Afterwards we visit the Pyramids in Gizeh. As it's Saturday, also many locals visit the place. It's windy and cold, even with the three layers I'm wearing. It's quite busy, including many touts, which can be a big hassle. I don’t find it too bad, but maybe seeing Amir besides me keeps them away. Standing in front of the pyramids makes you feel very small. Very impressive, especially considering that everything was manmade thousands of years ago, before the emergence of modern construction equipment.

The entrance to the inner part of the Cheops Pyramid is inconspicuous and only the people queuing up in front of it clearly indicate the entrance. As the inner part is completely empty and there is not much to see, I decide against a visit, which would also be quite expensive.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

We visit several viewpoints, my favourite one showing the three main pyramids with Cairo in the background. Everywhere is a hustle and bustle. The difference to Meroë in Sudan couldn’t be bigger. Although the pyramids here are more impressive without a doubt, with regard to the overall atmosphere Meroë clearly wins in my opinion.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Finally, we visit the famous Sphinx which is smaller than expected but despite of this does not fail to impress.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Suddenly, the wind intensifies, blowing lot of dust into the air. For a short moment the whole scenery appears almost mystical and I can take my favourite shots of the pyramid, giving the impression of being from another time.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

After an extensive breakfast, I'm picked up at 7:30 am in order to be on time at the airport which is on the far side of Cairo. After 1:15 h with lots of traffic, we arrive. The procedure at the airport is straight-forward, but queuing takes a lot of time. Almost 50 min for the passport stamp only. I just make it on time and my flight to Frankfurt starts almost punctual at 11:55 am.

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

FINAL VERDICT

It's quite a contrast between Sudan and Egypt. Egypt has been used to mass tourism for many years, and the infrastructure is developed accordingly. Sudan only has appeared on the tourist map only lately, just to run into a significant downturn with Corona and the political situation. A travel companion who travelled both countries extensively once mentioned to me that Sudan felt like Egypt 40 years ago. This probably brings it to the point. So which country is better now for travelling? As so often, the answer is "it depends". Without any doubt, Egypt has more to offer when it comes to historical landmarks, except of Meroë in Sudan. Overall, Egypt plays in its own league, but this comes with the downsides of mass tourism: you share sites with huge tour groups, shop sellers can be a real nuisance, pushy and trying to significantly overcharge tourists with all kind of tricks (although it was not as bad as expected). By contrast, in Sudan you will have to share the sites only with few tourists or you might even have them completely for yourself, creating a kind of Indiana Jones feeling. You can also expect extremely friendly people and when you are a little bit open and maybe even learn two or three Arabic phrases, plenty of tea or coffee invitations and nice chats without any money-oriented hidden agenda are waiting for you. Walking over a market can become the highlight of your trip. The Sudanese are masters in making you feel welcome and beside the people in Iran and Pakistan the most welcoming people I have ever met. Nevertheless, I have to say that I had also some very nice people encounters in Egypt, especially outside the mass tourism bubble. As always, it’s difficult to generalise, as this will never give the complete picture, thereby disregarding some facets of a country. But if I had too, I would say the highlights of Egypt are its unmatched historical landmarks that reflect several thousands years of history, whereas the real treasures in Sudan are its people and the Indiana Jones feeling visiting the historical sites. So if possible, don’t make a choice and visit them both!

Sudan and Egypt - Along the Nile River

Footnotes

All pictures taken with my Fuji XT-4 and IPhone in few cases.

FootNotes

All pictures taken with my Fuji XT-4 and IPhone in few cases.

© 2026 Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

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