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Sri Lanka - Paradise in Trouble

Travelling the country independently 04/2022

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

October 23^rd, 2022

Motivation

Looking back, I wonder why Sri Lanka had never ranked high on my bucket list. It would have easily deserved a place in the top ten - what a misjudgement! Only when my trip to North & South Korea in April 2020 was cancelled due to the Covid-19 situation, Sri Lanka came to my attention as an alternative. Covid-19 was not a big issue at that time, and travelling still possible, so I started planning an itinerary and soon after booked a flight with Qartar Airways. I made reservations for accommodation and a driver guide. Of course, the inevitable had to come: a couple of weeks later also Sri Lanka closed borders. Fortunately, I was able to cancel everything without fees, but the plan to visit the country asap stayed. Two years laster - in April 2022 - it was finally time.

Sri Lanka Facts

Population: around 21.9 million
Size: 65,600 km²
Capital: Colombo
Biggest City: Colombo 753,000 people
Main Languages: Sinhala, Tamil, English
Currency: Sri-Lanka-Rupie (LKR) , 1 EUR = 330 LKR (04/2022)

Itinerary

Not an easy task to find a good itinerary and also travel time. Despite its relatively small size, there is a lot to see and I could easily fill up a six-weeks itinerary. My first plan had been three weeks, but soon I found out that I needed at least four weeks to cover at least my top priorities. The right time is also not easy. November to March is the peak time for the southwestern part, afterwards the rainy season starts. On the east side, it's just the other way around. I decided for April which is a bridge month for both areas and overall, I was not disappointed by the weather. Many people prefer to go to the cultural triangle in the centre first, followed by the highlands and finally relaxing at the beaches in the southwest. I did it the other way around, having the monsoon times in mind.

Negombo

My flight with Sri Lankan arrives punctual at 6 .am. Outside the terminal, not only my guesthouse pick-up waits for me but also rather humid air. Welcome to Sri Lanka! The Villa Dominikku lies in a quiet residential area in Negombo and has very charming boutique-style rooms. The owners are nice and helpful.

After a rest I take a tuk tuk to the fish market, one of the biggest in Sri Lanka. A huge area is covered with all kind of dried fish. In a corner, fresh fish is prepared for the drying process. Cleaned, cut and salted. The smell is, ugh! ...let’s say challenging.

Around 70 % of the Sri Lanka's population follows Buddhism and only 6 % are Christian, the majority of them living in Negombo. Accordingly, there are several churches in Negombo. Another unique site of Negombo is the Dutch channel, a 15 km long channel connecting the lagoon with the sea. It was erected in 1802 during the British colonial time and used to transport the famous Ceylon cinnamon.

Lords Restaurant is a popular hangout place for the evening in Negombo.

Negombo Beach. First, I’m wondering about the meaning of the huge billboard at the beach. Then I realise it’s from the Australian Government and suddenly it becomes a story. Having been before in Nauru and seeing the Australian detention camps there, I know they are very serious about it. So the message is clear: don’t do it! I wonder if people care in these difficult times.

Hikkaduwa

I've organised a private transfer to Hikkadawu (2 hours) with the owner from Villa Dominikku. As I've read that Colombo is not an appealing city, I skip it on the way.

Getting around in normal times is pretty easy, as everyone will happily organise a transfer to the next destination. There are also plenty and very cheep buses and trains, but honestly - considering the very reasonable prices for a tuk tuk or taxi - this was the most comfortable way for me to travel around.

Arriving at Hikkaduwa, I check in into the Oasis Villa, which is conveniently located at the busy beach road but still quiet and in lush surroundings. I like it.

Hikkaduwa is a popular place for the backpacker party and surf scene, but nowadays also for package tourists, especially from Russia.

Hikkaduwa Beach - miles of beach walk opportunities.

For around 7 US-$, I rent a scooter for 1.5 days. The owner warns me that at the gasoline station they charge too much if you don't look carefully at the meter - and indeed a couple in front of me starts complaining as they think they are asked too much. From that moment, I always have a careful look at the meter - and will never run into a problem during the whole trip.

I pass a boat factory just outside town and have a look around the colourful boats. No one seems to care and the few workers just smile when I greet them.

The severe 2004 Tsunami also hit Sri Lanka with waves up to 10 m. Thousands in the area lost their lives due to the disaster. The Tsunami Honganji Viharaya is a memorial site for those. Close by, a full train was hit by the tsunami. A small museum shows pictures of the destruction caused.

Without a specific goal, I make a detour through the rural area. Everyone greets me with a big smile, the old ones often with only 2 or 3 teeth in their mouth. I enjoy the ride and the atmosphere in this beautiful lush area.

I have dinner a little bit outside Hikkaduwa in the Canal View. A residential house with five tables outside and charming owners serving authentic local curry. Around 9 € for the plate below, including juice, water and desert. Yummy, highly recommended.

Back in Hikkaduwa, I experience my first power blackout (1.5 hours). It will not be the last one! The rather dark beach is only lit up by the few lights from the restaurants and bars that have solar LED or a generator. I almost stumble over a turtle laying eggs just in front of a bar. People start gathering around but everyone is concerned not to disturb the turtle until it's finished. I'm surprised as mostly there is an idiot close by in such a situation. Not this time!

I have a drink at the Surf Control Rooftop Lounge, before I finally fall - well-fed and tired - into my bed.

I wake up early for the sunrise which I enjoy right from my balcony.

Then I drive to the next town Dodanduwa for the harbour. Unfortunately, the sun is behind the clouds. Dozens of fishing boats are on the beach. Some fishing crews are just coming in and ask me to help them bringing the boats on shore. We have to wait until the waves are high enough, then we push together. Not an easy job. I'm asked if I want to join them in the afternoon, but I'm not keen enough for that adventure. I spend almost 1.5 hours at this very photogenic spot.

I drive around through the beautiful countryside without a clear plan and make it back for a late breakfast at 9:30 hrs. Then I relax before I go to Steffi's Mandala for a Cappuchino and Avocado Sourgought Bread. Yummy. I like the place!

My afternoon drive brings me to the turtle point in Hikkaduwa. Lots of Russians here. To my surprise, two big turtles are close to the shore. The spectators around don't seem to disturb them. With the scooter I do another tour through the countryside, and at 6:30 p.m. I have dinner again in the Canal View. This time I order a delicious seafood soup. The live music at Steffis Mandala today I skip, as I'm too tired.

Again an early start at 6:00 a.m.

I drive to the Sinigame Muhudu Viharaya Temple, which lies partly on an offshore island. I hope for good morning light which I get, additionally to a religious ceremony I'm able to witness.

Galle Fort

I cruise around through the countryside before I return for breakfast. Due to the powercut this morning I can only pay cash. The return of the scooter is hassle-free and the tuk tuk to Galle I have organised (5 €) is already waiting. It takes about 30 min.

The Mango House is perfectly located in the middle of Galle Fort. The manager apologises several times for the power cuts. Currently they are building a generator room. The area has only been affected by the power cuts since two weeks ago. Today, from 13:00-18:00 and 21:00 - 23:00 hrs.

The fort dates back to the 16th century. It was first made by the Portuguese and then expanded and reinforced by both the Dutch and the English. The fort is so strong that it suffered almost no damage during the tsunami that hit Galle in 2004.

The walk along the ramparts offers several nice views, especially in the late afternoon.

I have lunch at Abscate, a small eatery, run by an elderly couple. Very tasty chicken, tomato, cheese roll and lassies. Afterwards I enjoy a fabulous coconut and passion fruit ice cream at Cafe 82, which is run by a lovely family. Prices are like in Germany, well Galle Fort definetly is an upmarket area.

Galle Fort is touristy with many souvenir shops, boutiques, cafes and restaurants. Nevertheless it's a charming place and and there is a lot to discovery while walking around the streets.

I have dinner at Coconut Sambol - all you can eat buffett (6 €) with tasty ginger beer. Afterwards I enjoy the sunset from the ramparts.

Except for a few more expensive hotels and restaurants that have a generator, the city is completely dark from 9:00 p.m. on. The time until 11:00 p.m. sucks. It's hot and humid and no AC in the room.

In the morning, I stroll through the fort. It's raining, I hear a faint thunder, the streets are empty... an eerie atmosphere!

After breakfast, the sun emerges and I have another stroll. The air is fresh and the first life shows up in the streets. In a gallery, I buy some vintage postcards for Melanie. Expensive but the nicest postcards I've seen for years.

Mirissa

At 11:00 a.m. my tuk tuk to Mirissa, which I've arranged via the hotel, is already waiting (9 €).

36 km and an hour later, I arrive at the ERA Holiday House, which offers just three rooms. The owner speaks only basic English but is very nice. His wife, who usually manages the guesthouse, is in hospital with their youngest child.

He arranges me a private scooter from the lady next door (9 € for 2 days). Her husband died a while ago, and this way she can make some extra money. The price is fair, the scooter cleaned - and off I go.

First I have a stroll at Mirissa beach, before I drive ...

...to the Kushtarajagala Statue, a Buddha carved into the rocks a bit outside of Mirissa.

In the afternoon I decide to check out the secret stilt fisher place I read about in the internet. The correct road to the beach is not clear, the first is a dead end but the second works. Well, the place is not a secret any more! There is a small beach shack with some locals selling coconuts and a hotel next to it. Some tourists enjoy the beach. There are also stilts in good condition in the water which let me hope.

At the beach shack I have a coconut and learn that occasionally there are fishermen in the morning, but not in this season, as now there are not many fish. They offer to pose for me but are not pushy at all when I first show no interest.

As the sunset looks promising and I'm already here, I decide to give it a try. My question regarding the price leads to some discussion among them, then they ask me how mutch I would pay. As I've read that the "professional" ones are asking for 3 € and more already four years ago, I offer that amount. They accept but only for one guy. Ok for me.

I try different perspectives, and at the end find myself in the water with all clothes, the water reaching to my belly button. Trying to keep the balance with the occasional waves is not so easy, but the scenery and sunset are spectacular, so I don't care.

Mirissa is probably the stereotype of a backpacker's dream. Nice beach, surfing, affordable accommodation, laid-back bars and all kinds of food from curries to fish, pizza, vegan poke bowls and much more. The locals are friendly, there is no aggressive street selling (which I haven`t experienced in Sri Lanka at all), what else do you want? It`s an own subculture - but honestly I like it.

For dinner I have a faboulous Pizza at DelTano's, and afterwards a cocktail, placing myself in one of the beach bar`s many colourful sandbags. The season is almost over and it's not very busy: no big party crowd.

On the way back it starts raining... ahhh....pouring like hell. It feels like myriads of single water bombs. Back at home I'm completely soaked. Enough water for today!

I start early for a visit of the Dondra Lighthouse, 20 km from Mirissa. The roads are already busy, especially in Matara, a bigger city on the way. It's a melange of buses, tuk tuks and scooters and an occasional truck. Especially the buses sometimes show up so close in the mirror that it feels they try to push me. They are the kings of the road and behave accordingly.

On the way, a bunch of monkeys attract my attention. They roam along the street, using the power lines and roofs of the houses. Always fun to watch monkeys, but for the locals they are a nuisance I'm told. An open window and they ruin your interior.

When I arrive, the entrance to the lighthouse is closed, but an old men shows me how to bypass. Inside the property I'm approached by the lighthouse keeper. I expect a telling-off, but he only wants to say hello. Unfortunately, the lighthouse itself is closed due to Covid-19. I take some pictures and then have a coconut at a very relaxed beach bar close by before I drive back.

In the afternoon, I decide to visit the cosmic power woody cottage in the countryside, highly recommended by Tripadvisor. The location is in a beautiful green setting. The owner is not only very friendly and talkative but looks quite unique with his 12-years old dreadlocks. He and his wife offer hair cuts, dreadlocks, body massages, meditation lessons and cooking classes. The curry I order is delicious and the best I had so far. I decide to have a relaxed afternoon here, as several hammocks in the property look quite promising.

For the sunset, I drive to the coconut tree hill, a famous Instagram spot in the area. Of course I'm not alone. It's actually quite busy, but still a great place to take some cool pictures. And if you can't beat the crowd, take 2-3 steps back and put them all in the picture.

To my suprise, the afternoon power cut today is only 15 min, instead of the usual 4 hours.

A missed junction brings me to the harbour fish marked, instead of to the secret beach. As I'm already here, I have a look around. I love the colourful boats, and taking pictures of the busy scene is no problem. A fisherman even asks me to take his picture and to send it to him, which I gladly do.

The secret beach is again not quite secret: two beach bars with plenty of chairs, and sun loungers are waiting for customers, but at 9:00 a.m. the backpacker scene is not yet awake. So I enjoy the scenery with an iced coffee almost alone.

Sinharaja Forest

After a late breakfast, a friend of the guesthouse owner brings me to the the Sinharaja Forest (82 km, 2.5 hours). The price for the car (27 €) is only slightly higher than a tuk tuk, so I choose the more comfortable way.

The rainforest is at an elevation of around 500 m. The scenery up here is beautiful even with tea plantations. Also the temperature is much more pleasant than at the coast.

The last 2 km, I'm picked up from the hotel`s own jeep, as the road is too bumpy. The 360 Rainforest is located in an idyllic location, close to the park entrance. I've opted for the tent rooms which are quite luxurious. I'm the only guest. There is a new interim manager called Kaushan, a smart guy who worked as a marine engineer on cargo ships for almost 12 years. He speaks excellent English, and we have an interesting discussion about politics but also his future plans. He wants to do a Master in IT security in Canada. I also meet Rukshan, the original manager who wants to go home tomorrow for a longer visit.

The rain counteracts my idea to do a night walk but I book the adventure tour for tomorrow. (15 km, 40 US-$)

I'm picked up by the guide 7:30 a.m. I tell him that I wanted to take pictures and if it got too late we just return. It does not take long until we see a snake. The light is dim and handheld shooting is almost impossible. The guide calls the guesthouse and Ruskan brings the tripod. Great, I will use it several times today and get some great close-up shots.

The waterfall is refreshing! It takes us almost 3 hours for the 2.5 km, due to protracted photo stops.

Leech area. Salt on the shoes and socks helps a lot against these little bastards, but still not 100 %.

On the way back, we run into a thunderstorm, but fortunately can wait in a hut. It rains cats and dogs, the path looks like a river and the thunder is so loud that it hurts in the ears. I've never encountered something like that!

At 4:30 p.m., we are finally back and Kaushan tells me that there is a lockdown until Monday morning due to riots in Colombo. After some phone calls it becomes clear that tourists are free to move, so I ask Rukshan to organise me a transport to Tangalle tomorrow.

Saying farewell to Rukshan and Kaushan.

Tangalle Beach

With prepared paperwork for the police, I start around 10:00 a.m. with the tuk tuk to Tangalle (20 €). As expected, streets are empty, a strange atmosphere. We stop at a gasoline station. Two soldiers with AK47 secure the station. There is no queue and with our special permit, the driver can fill up without any waiting time, which otherwise can take hours.

We also stop at a police station to get some papers, where I have a nice smalltalk with the chief police officer.

Driving down from 500 m to sea level, the temperature significantly increases. We reach Tangalle after 2.5 hours. The road to the Waves Beach Chalets is not well marked, but with Google`s help, we find it. Again I'm the only guest in the two chalets. The beach is beautiful and there are lots of shady areas. Just next is the Restaurant of the Mangrove Cabanas, were I have late lunch. The sitting area is beautiful. Mutch more relaxed than in Mirissa. It's one of the most relaxed and beautiful beach restaurants I`ve ever been to. Good food and cocktails, with great cozy sitting areas right on the beach. Even the internet is fast. I love the place!

I walk along the beach and check out dinner options. One of the restaurants (Sha Sha Seafood) is highly recommended. They show me all the seafood options and I promise to be back later, which I do, ordering a complete fish (yummy).

Sunset atmosphere.

Soft morning light at the beach.

With a rented scooter I drive to the Mulgirigala Raja Maha Viharaya. On the way in Tangalle I see a demonstration. Some of the government people have resigned but not the Rakapaksa clan.

The cave temple is more interesting than expected, with some nice statues and paintings in several rock caverns. Although it does not really feels too hot inside, I can see and feel the sweat that is just dripping off from me. Must be very humid.

It's already 12:30 hrs and really hot outside when I return to take a rest. Today, new guest have arrived. A couple with two children from Germany. They have rented a tuk tuk for their Sri Lankan road trip. Respect!!! This afternoon I relax and enjoy the sunset later on.

Tissamaharama - Yala and Bundala

The next morning, I take a tuk tuk to Tissamarharama (14 €), the jumping-off point to the Yala and Bundala National Park. Based on many good reviews, I have booked a basic but clean room and a one-day safari for tomorrow at the Nehansa Resort and Safari Guesthouse.

There are some tame deer around, which come to the guesthouse garden once called by the staff. Of course they hope for some food, which they get.

In the late afternoon, the staff drives me to the Tissa Lake to see the fruit bats which hang in huge flocks in the trees on the lake shore and start in thousands just after sunset.

This morning, I have an early start for Yala National Park, together with Patrick and Paula, a couple from Germany, and our driver Amalka. The park opens at sunrise, and around 40 cars are waiting for the gate to open. In high season, it can easily go up to 150 cars, I learn. Crazy.

There are half-day and full-day tours. I opted for the full day, which is a long, long day. Nevertheless, the park closes around noon for two hours. That's when the half-day tours have to get out of the park. The full-day tours stay inside, but at rest areas. Then, when the park opens up again, you benefit from being already in the middle of the park, i.e. there are less cars around, at least for a while.

Once the park opens, the leopard hunt starts, the animal the park is famous for and most tourists come for. The cars overtake each other, trying to be the first at the sites that expect a leopard, e.g. due to a sighting the previous day. Once a leopard is seen, the drivers contact their buddies to come to the place. Sudden turns on the road and pacing away in the opposite direction is not uncommon. Crazy!

The effect is that once a leopard is seen, the site is immediately full of dozens of cars causing a traffic jam. Everyone tries to get a glimpse at the animal, hundreds of peeking eyes. It takes us 20 min until we are in a position to see the leopard, maybe 75 meters away on a rock. What a fuzz about it!

Amalka is an experienced driver, he has been doing his job for 15 years already. When the leopard starts walking away, we drive to a lake nearby as Amalka expects the leopard to go for a drink. After waiting of another 20 min, most other cars have already left, and suddenly the leopard shows up out of the bushes, going for a buffalo carcass in the water. This time, we are in a prime spot. Gotcha! The next hours we will see plenty of different wildlife.

Lunch break at the sea and more animals, especially birds, in the afternoon.

This morning I've opted for a half-day tour to the Bundala National Park. I'm happy to see that I'm again picked up by Amalka, who did a great job yesterday. This time, a Belgian couple joins the tour. Bundala is especially famous for the bird life and far less busy than Yala. We only see one car the whole morning. It's a nice and relaxed tour but honestly can't match with Yala yesterday.

After a short rest back at the guesthouse, my taxi transfer to Arugam Bay (40 €, 2.5 hours) is already waiting. The roads goes straight through the Yale NP and frequent signs warn of animals on the road. It doesn't take long until we see two elephants in the middle of the road. My driver approaches slowly, but the elephant doesn't move a centimeter. As my driver doesn't want to take a risk, he waits a moment until a truck approaches from behind. Still, the elephant doesn't move but the truck driver is less patient and bold enough to drive around. We follow behind and are glad that the elephant seems to be in a deeply relaxed mood. Phew!

Arugam Bay - Surfers' Paradise

The East Surf Cabanas are a bit away from Arugam Bay. I have a cool airy room with plenty of space, a comfortable divan bed outside and even an open-air shower! I love it! With the help of the owner I organise a scooter in town so I can cruise around the next days.

After a relaxed morning, I make a scooter tour through the beautiful green paddy fields towards the south. The few rain drops don't bother me. It's a stunning scenery with dark rain clouds in the background. Back in town I have lunch at cozy Hideaway.

In the afternoon I join the jungle BBQ which is frequently organised by my guesthouse. We drive 1.5 hours into the countryside and spot elephants and crocodiles on the way. The BBQ spot is on top of a rock that overlooks the the area. Beautiful - but would be even better with some soft afternoon light. Unfortunately it's cloudy. Nevertheless we have some good discussions, and the BBQ is great, too, with delicious fish, prawn curry, chicken, etc. Highly recommended!

5:30 a.m., a quick peek out the window gives me a slight adrenalin rush! Looks like a nice sunrise this morning! I pack my stuff and 15 min. later I'm already on the scooter towards Kumana NP. I don't want to enter the park but visit the Kudumbigala Monastery Complex close-by. I enjoy the early morning atmosphere and scenery on the way.

Coming closer to the complex, I see more and more wildlife along the road, even an elephant. A crocodile scares the hell out of me - and I assume the other way around as well as it flees panic-fuelled into the water just a meter away from me, the moment I want to take a picture of a water buffalo. Damn - so close and I haven't seen it!

The old monastery is very peaceful. It's still active but I don't see any monks. Nevertheless it's nice to explore and it offers a spectacular view from the top of a hill with a stupa.

In the afternoon I have a quick look at the surf spots in the bay, but no surfers are out. The season has just started and the town still feels very empty. Some hotels and restaurants are still closed, some are for sale. The last two years have been hard.

The area is surprisingly clean.

Another tour through the patty fields. I can't get enough of these colours, especially with the dramatic blue storm clouds in the background.

A last morning tour with the scooter, and then it's time to say farewell to the East Surf Cabanas.

With Nora and Dominik from Kempten I share a taxi towards Ella. They get off half-way to take a tuk tuk to Tissamaharama, the way I came from a couple of days before. Later, they will let me know that they also had a nice elephant encounter on the way. Seems quite usual on that road!

On the way, I see people on the streets, demonstrating against the government. I can feel the tension rising more and more during the last days. Longer power-cuts, high inflation, rationed gasoline and diesel. People suffer more and more from the country's bankruptcy.

Ella - Tea Country

Driving up the mountains, the temperature drops noticeably. The air is fresh, the landscape lush - we finally arrive at Adam's Apple Home Stay in Ella. As usual, I organise a scooter, this time directly provided by the owner of the guesthouse. Then, I drive straight away to the Rawena Falls, said to be some of the biggest in the area. And indeed, they are impressive!

The small village of Ella has become more and more of a backpacker and tourist hub in recent years and now offers everything the crowd is looking for, including plenty of accommodations, restaurants, cafes, etc. It's a bit like Mirissa - just in the highlands. Especially in the evening, when everyone is back from the tours to the surrounding areas, it gets quite busy. Nevertheless it's a great hub to explore the area for three or four days.

Ella is full of guesthouses and home-stays. I've chosen Adam's Apple due to the many good reviews and I'm not disappointed. Lovely owners, great breakfast and a basic but spotless clean room with a fantastic view for a very reasonable price. Highly recommended!

The early morning greets me with a stunning sunrise.

Today, my plan is to explore some of the close-by must dos while staying in Ella, beginning with a short hike to the top of Little Adams Peak,.....

....the famous Nine Arch Bridge....

...and the Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory.

Who doesn't know the famous Ceylon tea? But before the tea plant came with the British from China via India to Sri Lanka, it was a coffee country until 1869, when a disease destroyed almost all coffee plants and tea became the substitute. Today, tea is the number one agricultural export good, although buildings and machines still look like they were from begin of the 20th Century.

Mostly black tea is made in Sri Lanka with lower quantities for green and white tea. All tea is coming from the same plant, only the production process is different. Especially the grade of fermentation.

The process of black tea making comprises five steps:

Withering - drying for 10 to 15 hours to reduce moisture by ventilation of the leaves.
Rolling - breaking up of the leave cells which starts the fermentation process
Fermentation
Firing - removing most of the leave moisture and destroying the enzymes to stop the fermentation
Grading - separation of tea particles into various shapes and sizes according to trade requirements.

Tea plantations often have Scottish city names, like Inverness, etc.

Unfortunately, it's a public holiday today and the production is not running, nor are any pickers around in the fields. I'm told that most tea factories are shut down for the complete week. Tours can still be booked to learn more about the process but no production. Back luck for me!

In the afternoon, I cruise around a bit with the scooter in the countryside.

I have dinner at Matey Hut, a simple eatery with fantastic tasty curries. For tomorrow I book a cooking class with them.

I wake up at 5 a.m., sitting at 5:20 a.m.already on the scooter on the way to Haputale and Lipton Seat, a famous viewpoint. The roads are still empty and it's a long way. So I speed up following a tuk tuk, hoping it will slow down in case of potholes, which are not so easy to see in the dark. Fortunately, the road is good until I reach the junction towards the Dambatenne Tea Estate. The next 12 km to Lipton Seat run through beautiful tea plantations. The narrow, steep and curved road has plenty of potholes and requires concentration.

I reach the viewpoint around 7 a.m., still in the soft morning light and can understand why Lipton liked this place so much. Usually, clouds roll in in the late morning, therefore best to visit early.

On the way back I stop for a tea tour at Dambatenne. The old plant was build by Lipton in 1890. The production is running, however the tour itself is far less informative than the one in Halpewatte and cost even more. The guide mostly reads just the text from the leaflet that is provided. Furthermore, there is no tea tasting afterwards. Not recommended!

During the one hour I was in the tea factory, the clouds have rolled in, creating a spooky atmosphere outside.

Back in Ella, I have a late lunch at the popular Cafe Chill, when it suddenly starts raining. Fortunately, I have my rain gear with me, but the rain becomes so torrential that I more float than drive back to my guesthouse. Swim gear would have been more suitable!

In the evening, I'm picked up for the cooking class. We prepare several curry dishes in four groups. Together with an English couple, we decide to become the original Sri Lanka spicy group. Whenever something spicy is added, our trainer tells us to triple the quantity. We are curious what awaits us!

All dishes taste great. We decide that the food is quite spicy but on the bearable site. A cold beer helps. I wonder if it will burn a second time. We will see, or... ahem, ...feel.

What a great scooter trip through beautiful tea landscapes with gorgeous views today!

Sri Lankan people are fantastic. Despite all the economical problems they face - power shortcuts, long queues for fuels, soaring prices - they are warm, helpful, honest and always showing a smile. I can't remember that I ever felt more comfortable and welcome in any other country.

Today, I lost my mobile phone at a small waterfall I visited. I only realised it 10 min later when I wanted to check for directions with the scooter. Still searching all my pockets, a police car stopped and asked to my surprise if I miss my iPhone, which I, flabbergasted, confirmed.

Someone informed them and now they are on the way to pick the phone up. I just follow them. The old lady that runs a curry and rice place at the waterfall found the phone. I'm so glad I have it back that I want to give her some money as thank you, which she refuses several times. The phone is probably worth 2-3 monthly salaries. The police takes a picture with all of us, then they all wish me a nice holiday.

Long queue in front of a gasoline station. Several hours waiting time or even overnight is not uncommon. The gasoline shortage gets worse.

In the afternoon at the Demodara view point, a nice old man who runs a kiosk starts a smalltalk with me, then he invites me to a coconut and shows me with enthusiasm the different viewpoints up here. He brings some tea bags from the Oodoowerre Tea Estate, which is just next to the viewpoint and I think now he wants to sell them, but he only explains that his son sells this tea in a shop in Ella. When I ask for prices he needs to call his son, I asked for the best quality and I finally buy 25 g of Golden Tip for 1,200 Rupies (4 €). First I think: rather expensive, but later on the internet I find out that it's one of the best and rarest teas in Sri Lanka, even worldwide and that the tea estates generally achieve the highest prices in the region in the tea auction in Colombo. On the internet in Germany it costs four times as much as what I paid here.

The train ride between Ella and Kandy is probably one of the most famous and scenic in the world and an Instagrammer hotspot, as the open doors allow for some spectacular pictures hanging out of the train. Honestly, it's good fun. I think 2nd class is the best deal for tourists, as 1st has aircon and windows can't be opened and 3rd is very busy. I get off between in Nuwara Eliya to explore the most English city in Sri Lanka, as Nuwara is often called. At 1,850 m, it's also the highest and coldest city in Sri Lanka and the most important location for tea production.

Nuwara Eliya

My guesthouse in Nuwara, Heidis Home, is probably the most unique during my whole trip. Heidi painted and arranged every room by herself. I'm totally stunned and walk around and peak in every room in awe.

A stroll through Victoria Park. Unfortunately, it starts raining. Welcome to Nuwara!

High tea at the Grand Hotel. The perfect place for trying the first high tea of my life. Well, interesting experience, but somehow overrated. The assorted biscuits were not my favourites, despite the luxurious location.

Many vegetable stalls along the road to the Damro Tea factory.

It's already late and the tea factory is closed. I don't care, I just enjoy driving the winding scenic roads with the scooter.

Today, again an early start awaits me. With Heidis help I've organised a tuk tuk to the Horton-Plains National Park (12 € return, including waiting time). The entrance fee to the park is a pricy 25 €. Somehow, that feels quite unbalanced. On the way, we watch the stunning sunrise. The weather is perfect for a hike today, which is best done in the early morning, as clouds typically start rolling in by 10 a.m.

The typical round trips takes around 3-4 hours, including some breaks. The scenery and views are great, but somehow I've expected to see more animals. Nevertheless a good experience.

New Zealand? Ireland? No, Sri Lanka.

Strawberries are quite popular in the area and are sold as luxurious fruits.

As I'm already back from Horton-Plains about noon, I decide to make another scooter tour through the tea plantation area. This time, Damro is still open and I enjoy a free tea and a not-free cake.

Blue Field Tea Factory, a bit further down from Damro. Also in a very scenic location.

What a sunset the last night in Nuwara!

The second part of the train ride from Ella to Kandy is just as beautiful as the first. This time, there are less tourists on the train, but the 3rd class is completely full with locals.

Kandy - the last capital of the kings era

The SWP Eco Lodge in Kandy is in a perfect location. Centrally located and in sight and walking distance to the famous Temple of Tooth, but still quiet and in lush surroundings.

In the afternoon, I walk around the lake to join the procession in the Temple of Tooth. I'm amazed by the numbers of pilgrims and the fuzz around the relict. But it's interesting to watch. It's believed that whoever holds the relic holds the governance of the country.

In the morning, I organise a tuk tuk to visit the Ranawana Purana Rajamaha Viharaya Temple, which is known for its man-sized dioramas of religion scenes. I find the temple very unique and a worthwhile visit from Kandy, especially if combined with the Royal Botanical Garden.

Next, I stop at the Royal Botanical Garden, which is a great place to spend 2-3 hours. I'm especially stunned by the cannonball trees, not only because of their beautiful flowers but by their fruits, which indeed look and feel like cannonballs. Nothing you want to fall on your head.

Back in Kandy, I walk around the lake. Some trees are full of birds and there is a good reason why locals open their umbrella while walking beneath the trees.

The biggest protest I've seen so far.

In the evening, I visit a Kandy Dance Show. I had a reservation just to find out that there are only a few guests and for a couple of minutes it's not even clear if they perform the show. But finally they do. There are more performers than member of the audience, but they do a great show. Very energetic, and they really seem to have fun doing it. The perform several different dances, including a firewalk at the end. For around 4 € definitely worth a visit. The drop of tourism becomes now more and more obvious. Pictures of burnt busses and riots in Colombo made it already to the international press.

Anu, the owner of my homestay in Sigeriya, picks me up at at 8 a.m. On the way, we stop at a few places, starting with the very colourful Sri Muthumari Amman Kovil - Matale, a Hindu temple.

I rent a scooter for expensive 2,500 Rupies/day after negotiations. The tank is half full. I decide to visit the lion rock already this afternoon. I think it's four o'clock when I buy the ticket for 30 US-$ just to find out it's already 5 o'clock, which is tight considering the way up is already one hour. Halfway, I visit the so-called cloud ladies which can be reached via a steep staircase. Well preserved paintings, but taking pictures is not permitted. Then, I somehow take a wrong turn and find myself - after some confusion - on the way down to the exit. Damn - not enough time to get up now. Frustraded, I leave the site, angry about myself. The next day I hear from a couple I meet on Pitulanga rock that the view from here is even better, they wouldn't go to lion rock again due to the high price. Well, at least that eases my mind a bit.

Next, we stop at the Nalanda Gedige, which represents the exact geographical centre of Sri Lanka.

Especially fabulous is the Rock Temple in Dambulla.

Sigiriya

Around midday, we reach Sigiriya. I rent a scooter for a whooping 8 €/day after negotiation. Spare parts are now difficult to get and are extremely expensive is the explanation. I ask for a full tank to avoid the long queues in the gasoline stations, but they have only enough fuel in a bottle to fill it up half.

I decide to visit the lion rock already this afternoon. I think it's 4pm when I buy the ticket for 30$ just to find out it's already 5pm, which is tight considering the way up is already one hour. Halfway I visit following a steep staircase the so called cloud ladies. Well preserved paintings, but pictures are not permitted. Then I somehow take a wrong turn and found myself after some confusion on the way down to the exit. Damn not enough time to get up now. Frustraded I leave the site, angry about myself. The next day I hear from a couple I meet on Pitulanga rock that the view from there is even better, they wouldn't go to lion rock again for the price. Well at least that eases my mind a bit.

Yummy food at the Thal Sewana Guesthouse which is run by a lovely lady.

At 4.50 a.m., I'm already on my way to the Pitulangula rock. Entrance via the monastery is only 3 €. I'm the first and it only takes 20 min up on a well-lit path. Only the last 30 meters, some climbing over boulders is required. Soon, more and more people arrive. At the end it will be around 50, I guess. But the plateau is huge and the view, especially towards the lion rock, is spectacular.

I meet Petr and his friend from the Czech Republic on the rock and they ask me if I want to join an elephant Safari this afternoon. The price seems to be reasonable, and I agree.

Today, I have to switch guesthouses. I've originally booked the Sigiri Anu Home Stay, but when I decided to skip a day in Kandy and to spend one more day in Sigerya, it was already fully booked for that day. Anu and his wife are incredible hosts, always helpful and always showing a smile. The room is spotlessly clean and even has a quiet aircon. Food is delicious, too. Great value and highly recommended!

At 1 p.m., we start for the elephant safari. There are different parks and the elephants migrate between them. Most of them now can be found at Eco park. Our jeep has a roof that can be opened, which offers a great view standing up. Unfortunately, the sun is still very strong - and as I forgot my hat, I build myself a cover with the jacket. At around 3.30 p.m., it becomes much more pleasant. All in all, we see around 30 elephants, but not many other animals. Nevertheless for the price (18 € pp) a good experience.

At 5 a.m. this morning, I'm already on the way on the scooter towards Polonawarua. Fortunately, Anu gave me 1.5 l of his spare petrol, as the scooter is only half full and 120 km both way won't work. At 6.30 a.m. and a nice drive, I reach the place.

The entrance fee is again 25 US-$. Totally crazy, considering the general price level in Sri Lanka. The huge area is fenced, I see no other tourists visiting the different sites and enjoy the quiet atmosphere at the ruins. Polonawarua became the second kingdom site, after Anuradhapura was abandoned.

On the way back, I find myself suddenly in front of a road block with protesters. Damn, I think. A local on a motorcycle gives me a sign to follow him and brings me on side roads around. Some kilometers later, the next road block is already ahead. Damn, I think, that can be interesting to get back. Again, a local gives me a sign to follow him. He is on the way back to Colombo and just follows another local from the area. On many backcountry roads, we avoid several road blocks on the main road. Glad I met these guys! With an almost empty tank, all gasoline stations were out of petrol, I reach Anus Homestay. Phew!

This is the first time on my trip were I have the feeling that I can't wholeheartedly recommend a trip to Sri Lanka anymore under this circumstances. I never felt unsafe and I could deal with the power cuts, but once traveling from A to B becomes a game of chance, this is the tipping point. What a disaster for the country and the people, as tourism is the last business that brings some foreign currency to the country... now the whole situation is worsening.

Somehow Anu has managed with some friends to organise petrol, so I go on a village tour with him. Especially the secret sunset place is amazing. On a rock very close to his home a sweeping 360 degree view of the surrounding area awaits me, including Lions Rock and Pidurangala. It's equal if not even better than the two others and it's for free, easy to get to the top and without any tourists. Amazing! I wonder why not more people know about it. So I highly recommend to stay with Anu or to do a tour with him, so he can show you the secret spot.

I was so stunned yesterday by the secret viewpoint, that I ask Anu to bring me there again for the sunrise. Gee, I'm not disappointed!

After an extensive breakfast, Anu brings me to Anuradhapura. On the way we visit Rigitale, an old forest monastery, where I join a German lady with guide and driver for the walk. This way, I get some explanations about the place. The monks had extensive knowledge about the many plants in the area and their use to treat diseases.

Anuradhapura

In Anuradhapura, I check in to the Waterfront Homestay. Wasanthe, the owner, speaks excellent English and is very knowledgeable. He recommends visiting Mihintale for sunset, and the next morning the ancient city. I agree and he organises a Tuk Tuk.

Lalith, the driver, brings me to the place after we have visited two other places on the way. Again it's relatively quiet. Where are all the tourists? Are they all out of the country and only few are coming after the recent developments? The locals come here mainly on the weekends.

Mihintale is one of only two places Buddha visited in Sri Lanka, and therefore a very holy place. The sunset view is said to be stunning but unfortunately, today it's clouded. But anyway it's a nice experience.

Today, I plan to do a city tour of the ancient sites. Besides being a tuk tuk driver, Lalith works as a guide, but asks for 20 US-$ for the guiding. After some hesitation, I accept. He makes a good job and is very knowledgeable which definitely adds to the experience. The money is well spend. The entrance fee for the whole area again is 25 US-$. We visit many sites, including the biggest Pagoda in Sri Lanka, ruins of an ancient monastery with 5,000 monks and of course ...

... the Bodi Tree. The oldest planted tree in the world, sibling of the original tree where Buddha was enlightened, which has been burnt. Being rather small and crippled, the branches of the tree are supported by golden sticks. Walls around it protect it from elephants.

After countless visited sites, I'm completely bushed. It's sweltering hot by that time, and I've seen so many places that I'm glad when we are finally back at the guesthouse. I can only recommend starting as early as possible to avoid the midday and afternoon heat.

Wilpattu National Park

Yesterday, Wasanthe offered to bring me all the way to the airport within the next two days, organising himself a sleeping place around Wilpattu. As the price seems fair, I agree. We start at 11 a.m. and the drives takes around 2.5 hours. Only one time we have to make a detour due to a road block.

I'm the only guest at the Backwaters Lodge, which has an interesting concept: the houses are containers on stilts, so the animals can freely roam. It's a nice area with many secluded relaxing corners, sundecks, hammock, etc. The curry is some of the best I had during the trip. Nevertheless it's by far the most expensive accommodation of my trip and in my opinion a bit too expensive for what you get, which I openly also tell the owner. We have a nice chat and he is really interested in my feedback and asks a lot of questions. He mentions that he might reduce the price a bit in the future and that also some room renovation might be required, but ignores my remark that he could start with me today ;-)

Also the standard rates for the safari drive to Wiltapu, which are offered by the driver community, has recently been increased significantly. Too expensive, I decide, as I have no sharing possibility and have been already to Yale and the Eco Park. Instead, I decide to do a sunset boat ride and a morning walk for bird watching.

I enjoy the boat ride, although we don't see many birds, as it's cloudy. The sky quickly turns very dark and we make it back just before the rain starts.

In the morning, the lodge owner joins me with his bike to show me a good birdwatching place. It's a very nice surrounding with rice fields on one side and an irrigation lake on the other. Unfortunately, there are not so many birds - no match for Bundula and Yala.

We already start at 1 p.m. in order to have enough buffer in case of problems on the way, demonstrations etc. I wanted to spend the evening time in a hotel close to the airport, having a drink and some food. But when we arrive, only 2.5 hours are left and they charge 15 US-$ for a taxi to the airport which is just 2.5 km away. Normally, it wouldn't be more than 3 US-$. Ridiculous. It's not about the money, but I just don't want to support such an audacious behaviour, so I decide to go straight to the airport with Wasantha.

He tells me that the tuk tuk driver of yesterday informed him that I had forgotten my hat in the tuk tuk. Damn, I love that hat! We are travel buddies. I give Wasantha some money and he promises to send the hat. I trust he will do (which he did, by the way!), as he is a nice guy.

Everything in the airport works smoothly, and even the plane leaves on time. Farewell, Sri Lanka!

Final Verdict

What shall I say? It's a drama. Without a doubt, Sri Lanka is one of my favourite countries and I have been in many. It's so diverse, there is so much to see and to explore. Travelling around is simple, food is great and the people are a real treasure. Honestly, Sri Lankan people are some of the most welcoming people in the world - despite all the problems they currently face.

It's such a shame! Especially as there are so many crises in the world right now, the one in Sri Lanka stays mainly under the radar in the western world. I only hope that Sri Lankan people manage to get a future government that cares for the people and not only for themselves, that they get the support to rebound, for buying medicine and gas and that finally tourists will come back to that beautiful country, bringing in the much needed foreign currency. I strongly believe the country has great potential.

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