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South Korea - Autumn Colours (Part 1/2)

Seoul - Sokcho - Gyeongju - Busan in Oct. 2022

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

May 14^th, 2023

Motivation

Well, let's be honest, South Korea is probably for many people not the first travel choice in Asia. We all know about Samsung or Hyundai, also the conflict with North Korea is continuously in the news - but all this is nothing that makes you visiting a country. However in recent years, South Korea definitely became more and more popular, especially with younger people. Maybe an effect of the K-Pop, K-Drama, Korean BBQ, Bubble Tea waves in recent years - and K-Beauty seems to be the next trend. So how does this rather small country manages to set those kind of worldwide recognised trends? Reason enough for me to visit South Korea.

Facts

Population: around 52 million
Size: 100,363 km²
Capital: Seoul
Biggest City: Seoul, 9.8 million inhabitants
Main Languages: Korean, English not widely spoken but sometimes works in touristic places.
Religion: 58% no religion, 28% Christians, 15% Korean Buddhism
Currency: South Korean Won (KRW), 1 EUR = 1,400 KRW (10/2022)

Itinerary

Despite its size, there is a lot to see in Korea, although many travellers only concentrate on Seoul - which of course is so big (with a population of around 10 m) and has so many areas to explore, that it’s not difficult to spend one week or more, including some day excursions.

I decided to include Sokcho with the nearby Seroksan NP and famous autumn foliage for some hiking, Gyeonju for it’s historical sites from the Silla period, Busan as the second biggest city right at the sea, Jeju Island, which is considered as the Hawaii of South Korea, and finally Jeonju for the biggest Hanok village, also being the food capital of the country.

Seoul (4 nights) - Oh My Guesthouse (home away from home, fantastic helpful and good English-speaking host, walking distance to the Bukchon Hanok Village and Gyeongbokgung Palace, otherwise good connection by bus / metro.
Sokcho (3 nights) - Sokcho Hutte - very close to Intercity Bus Terminal and Bus to Seroksan NP
Gyeongju (2 nights) - DoranDoran Guesthouse - walking distance to all major sights in the city
Busan (4 nights) - MAMA Guesthouse - perfect for Haeundae, otherwise long traveller distances to other sights in the city - next time I probably would prefer a more central location like Seomyeon.
Jeju East (1 night) - Sungsan Woori Pension - walking distance to Seogsan peak for sunrise
Jeju South (3 nights) - Seogwipo Good Day Pension - good base to explore the north and east
Jeju North (1 night) - Ventimo Hotel & Residence - nice hotel, close to airport
Jeonju (2 nights) - Starlight Rest Area - lovely owners, good hints, directly in the heart of the hanok village
Seoul (4 nights) - Oh My Guesthouse

When to go?

A rather simple question. For the normal traveller spring (April-June) and autumn (Sep. to Oct.) not only come with the best weather but - if timed rightly - with the cherry trees in blossom (late March to early April) or fantastic autumn foliage (mid to end of October). I've timed myself for the latter one, and would immediately do it again. Beside two rainy days at the beginning in Seoul, the weather was perfect - with blue skies and comfortable temperatures around 20 degrees during the day. Perfect for exploring the country. July to August are very hot and humid with monsoon rains and winters can get very cold.

Three essential tips for getting around the cities

Get a T-money card, which can be used for all kind of local transports in Korea, Airport train, metro, buses and even taxis. Very simple. They are sold in all metro stations, e.g. at the airport at vendor machines and can be topped up on closeby machines or at the myriads of 7eleven, CU or similar shops around. Use the card for hopping in and out of a city transport, transfers are free within a certain time, this is automatically considered.
Download the Naver App - this brilliant Korean app shows all connection possibilities from A to B and even often real time when the next bus is coming. I used it all the time. Google Maps direction is NOT working in Korea.
As the Naver app requires online connection, get a SIM card. Typically they are booked ahead, e.g. via Kloog and directly picked up at the airport. Wifi ist often available for free, e.g. in trains, shops, restaurants, public places - but to be on the safe side, a SIM is helpful.

Seoul

My flight with Asiana is punctual and the immigration straightforward and efficient. I buy a T-money card and hop on the metro to Seoul, which takes about an hour. A short bus ride brings me to my guesthouse. I'm tired, but today is an international firework competition in the city, and after a short rest I'm on my way again. It seems like the whole city wants to see the show. The crowd is overwhelming. After 2/3 of the show I decide to leave early, as otherwise I see me already waiting for hours in the metro. Again I'm not the only one with that idea, and slowly but constantly manoeuvre myself through the masses towards the metro entrance, only hearing and seeing the bombastic final of the show from the distance. It almost feels like in a war scene. Too much for me today, and I'm more than relieved when I finally in the train.

On the way to the guesthouse I stop at a food market. I'm overwhelmed by the many exotic-looking dishes. Hard to make a decision, but at the end a picture of John Kerry eating at one of the stalls clinched it for me and I order spicy rice cake (tteokbokki). I even get a trial of a sweet version. A bit sticky but overall tasty and yes... spicy!

Gangnam

Gangnam is the posh part of Seoul, famous for the K-Pop scene (best experienced on the K-Star Road) and...

...expensive shopping, but honestly what fascinates me the most are the pedestrian traffic lights built into the walkways. Very cool and probably the only way to hinder the mobile phone-fanatic young Koreans to run into passing cars while checking their social media account on the fly.

Surrounded by a sea of modern skyscrapers of busy Gangnam, Bongeunsa temple feels like a little island of tranquility. A great picture opportunity.

Besides its enormous size, the COEX mall is just another shopping mall. As I'm not into shopping, the only reason for me to come here is the Starfield library, a well-known instagram spot. A cool spot for some pictures.

Impressive LCD installation in the COAX mall. Could have watched it for hours, but Hongdae is waiting for me.

Hongdae

Hongdae is the cool, hip student neigborhood of Seoul, with lots of nice cute cafés, bars and shops.

Something that comes totally by surprise to me: there are many countries in the world which are famous for their coffee culture, like Italy, Brazil or Ethiopia - but who would consider Korea? In fact, Koreans drink more than 12 cups of coffee per week and Seoul has over 18,000 coffee shops including more Starbucks than any other city in the world. Fortunately, there are not only chains but plenty of very unique theme cafés, waiting to be discovered. Unfortunately, the coffee prices are also some of the highest in the world: 6 to 7 EUR are not uncommon but the price can go beyond 10 EUR for some special theme cafes. In this case, the price can be regarded more as an entrance fee for a unique experience. I decide to make it my mission to find and visit unique coffee places during my trip.

The 2D Greem Café in Hongdae being the first one.

Another interesting but also partly questionable place is the dog café. It was clean, the dogs were friendly and looked well cared of. It was mostly frequented by young Korean girls. The coffee was poor, but of course you don't come here for the coffee. I have no clear picture what I should think about such a concept. There are other similar cafés in Seoul with cats, and even racoons, which I did not visit.

Hoho Myoll Café is probably the place for coffee aficionados, as you can watch the owner, who is a real Barista, roasting the coffee beans himself.

Hongdae at night. Beer and Korean Fried Chicken is extremely popular at night, especially with the party people. Although not partying, I tried my first at Chicken in the Kitchen and really loved the place and the red hot chili chicken. Just don't ask for the calories.

My final stop for today is the Seoullo 7017 bridge, which now is a park for pedestrians on a former highway. It's chilly, wet and no one is around, but It's a cool place for some night traffic pictures, as the wet roads just add to the atmosphere.

Bukchon Hanok Village

I start my third day with a visit at the Bukchon Hanok Village, which is a pleasant stroll away from my guesthouse. With its 900 Hanok houses and narrow alleys, it preserves a 600 years old urban environment. I especially like the contrast between the old village and modern Seoul which some of the views offer. Of course it's a popular place, so better start early.

Insadong

Next, I stroll through Insadong, which 500 years ago was an area of residence for government officials. Today it has a wide mix of cafés, tea houses, restaurants, antique shops and art galleries and therefore is quite popular with locals as well as foreign tourists. Although not a big tea lover, for me the right place to check out one of the traditional tea houses in the area. Entering Jidaebang feels like a time travel, centuries back. I love the atmosphere, although I’m totally overwhelmed with the equipment that comes with my green tea so I have to check the internet to find out how to use it.

Jogyesa temple is impressive. There is a ceremony going on when I arrive. The area around is colourfully decorated and kinda corny.

On the way to the Cheonggyecheon river, I pass the Jonggak Avenue of Youth. I'm overwhelmed by the many neon boards and decide to come back here for the night scenery.

Along the Cheonggyecheon River

Cheonggyecheon Stream is an 11 km-long stream that runs through downtown Seoul. It was recultivated in 2003 as part of an urban renewal project, when an elevated highway was covering the river. I wander for quite a while along the river benches, which feels like a natural, peaceful green retreat in the middle of the city. Very enjoyable, especially with the occasional sun rays that make it more and more through the cloud cover.

Gwangjang Market

Next to the river is the Gwangjang Market, a huge busy food market. After strolling around, I grab a vacant bench at one of the stalls and order a delicious-looking dumpling soup from the two friendly older ladies that run the place. It tastes like it looks: yummy. As a dessert, I buy some pastry, which looks like walnuts. Fluffy with different fillings - and a real walnut inside! I like the ones with additional custard filling the most.

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

Dongdaemun is s a major urban development landmark, with exhibition spaces, some futuristic retail stores and a green roof garden. It's very modern, but IMHO not so impressive. Enough of walking today, fortunately the bus to the guesthouse goes straight from here.

Gwangsu Dong at Night

Although tired, I can't resist a short stop in order to take some pictures in the area where I saw so many neon boards earlier today. As expected, it looks pretty cool at night!

Half day tour to the DMZ

Via my guesthouse, I've booked a half day tour to the DMZ, the border between North and South Korea. DMZ means DeMilitarised Zone, but in fact, there are millions of land mines. After a long closure during Covid-19, it reopened for tourists just two months ago, causing a huge run. Yesterday Lee, my host, informed me that they will pick me up already at 5:30 h. Last time, more than 500 people wanted to enter the area, but only 280 are allowed, so the rest had to return.

Indeed, at 5:35 h a driver arrives with a sedan. He picks up two more people and brings us to a bus which picks up more people. Everything is quick and efficient, perfectly organised. On the way Jil, our guide, explains us the history and relationship between the two Korean nations. Very informativ and neutral in my opinion. Still today, one million South Korean families have relatives in North Korea. Meetings are not possible nor any other kind of connection. Relatives don’t even know if someone died.

Within 45 minutes, we are at the entrance of the DMZ, where we have to wait until 9:00 h, when the ticket office opens. We have a short look around and get some more information from Jil. There even is a railway connection ready to start. It was built many years ago during an appeasement phase, with the idea to connect the two Koreas with the Transsiberian Railway.

Then, Jil queues up for the ticket. It’s first come-first served, that’s why we had to start so early. Like many others, I queue up as well - but for a coffee, which I finally get 25 minutes later. I don’t mind, there is nothing to do.

At 9:40 h, we can finally start. We have to switch buses, because within the DMZ the transport is organised by the military.

First, we visit the 3rd tunnel. During the last decades, several tunnels were found, which had been made by the North Koreans in order to be prepared for an invasion. 30,000 soldiers could sneak into South Korea within one hour, just 50 km away from Seoul. Once discovered, the North Korean claimed the tunnels were for coal mining and to underline it, they were painted black with coal dust. Hard to believe that this is true... how can anyone really believe this dodge would work?!

The tunnel brings us close to the North Korean border, which is just 150 meters away according to Jil. Of course underground. It goes down to the tunnel very steeply, and I’m glad we use the monorail. Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed.

Next, we visit the observatory, where we have a good view towards North Korea. On the South Korea side, a flag pole of 100 m was erected, soon answered by a 160 m version in North Korea. With the binocular, I can see people on bicycles and a little village which is said to be fake, as no one lives in it. It’s just a view to another country, but it creates a kind of goose-skin, considering that we had a similar situation in Germany some decades ago.

We can also see the Joint Security Area from the distance, with its famous blue barracks that are used for negotiations. Unfortunately, it's still closed for the public.

Back in Seoul

At 1:30 pm, we are back in Seoul.

Naksan park - along the city wall

Together with Rick, who I met on the trip this morning, I hike along the old city wall from the Hyehwamun Gate towards the Ihwa Mural Village. The views over Seoul on the way are stunning, but I’m a bit disappointed by the mural village, having seen similar places in other countries with much more and nicer murals.

Seoul is not a cheap place at all, which I can experience visiting a supermarket, looking for some fruits. 700 g of grapes for 9 EUR, 1 kg of apples for 8 EUR and some nice looking tomatoes for almost 10 EUR. Holy cow!!!

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Today, I start with a visit of the most famous palace in Korea. Built in 1395, Gyeongbokgung was the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty. The palace was almost completely destroyed two times, the last time in the early 20th century by imperial Japan. Some parts of the huge area are still under restoration.

I’m the only one waiting at the north gate. Great, I think, doesn’t seem to be busy in the morning! Sheesh, how wrongI am I encounter soon after: the masses are coming from the South Gate. I see in particular many school classes.

It seems to be popular to rent a Hanbok, the traditional clothing from the Joseon time. Entrance is free with it. A great idea, as it adds to the atmosphere of the place.

My personal highlight is the Hyangwonjeong Pavilion in the north of the compound.

I also watch the change of the guard at 10:00 h, although a bit from the distance, as it’s outside the ticket area and the ticket is only valid for one entry.

Overall, I spend around 2.5 hours at the huge site.

On the way to Sokcho

Getting a bus to Sokcho is much easier than expected. Arriving at Dong Seoul bus station, I only see Korean billboards except for one information booth. I go there, hoping the lady can tell me where to get the ticket. To my surprise, she asks me in perfect English if I want to go now, tells me the price, issues a ticket and 20 minutes later, off I go after a chat with a friendly Korean who had lived for 20 years in Canada and is now going back to Sokcho.

The bus is a premium bus, and with 24,000 Won slightly more expensive than the normal one, but with business class-like seats. Very, very comfortable. The landscape outside Seoul towards Sokcho is really nice: green, forested hills and the autumn colours just starting to show up. Sometimes, a small village is dotted between them and the rice paddies shine in bright yellow. The harvest can't be far away.

Sokcho

Abai Village

My guesthouse Sokcho Hutte is just 100 m away from the Intercity bus terminal. Very convenient. For dinner, I walk to the Abai Village, which consists of a small group of houses and shops located on what used to be a sand bar offshore from the main city of Sokcho. As the North Korean army retreated from South Korea in 1950, a large number of North Koreans ended up trapped on the southern side of the newly established border between the two nations. With nowhere else to go, what began as temporary accommodation eventually became permanent.

While many of the Abai have left the village in recent years, the traditions and food of their northern homeland are still maintained and provided within the numerous restaurants.

Today, I decide to be brave and have the traditionell blood sausage "ojingeo" and "abai ojingeo" filled squid. Tastes much better than it sounds! Not weird or strange, just solid and tasty - and it works best with a local beer.

Seoraksan National Park - Day 1

Again an early start. At 6:00 am, I'm already at the bus station, just to find out that my host was wrong: the first bus is at 6:30 am, not at 6:00 am, damn! It takes about an hour to the Seoraksan NP. It's still relatively quiet. The air is clean and crisp. The autumn foliage has just started, the peak is forecast to be in ten days... I'm a bit disappointed. Nevertheless, even without the strong colours, the area is beautiful. I walk around Singheusa Tempel, the oldest of its kind in Korea, before I...

... catch the cable car to Gwongeumseong. Now it's becoming busy. The view from the top is great, it's a beautiful day with blue sky.

Back down, I take it easy, have a coffee, a nap, lunch (Bulgogi) and then slowly make my way to the Biryong Falls (4.5 km return). The autumn colours along the way are more intensive than in the rest of the park - due to the colder temperatures in the valley with the river, I assume. One the way, I meet a French couple, Orely and Christoph from Alsace, and we have a long chat and obviously are on the same wavelength. I like them.

Sokcho Tourist Market

Back in Sokcho, I go to the fish & touristic market. What a combination! Wow, it's really big and the food area offers many things to try. But today, I'm here to try the famous Mansuk Chicken, which comes in a box that could easily feed three people.

In the guesthouse, I have it together with a cold local beer. Very sweet, crunchy, a bit spicy and tasty, although not too special. The rest is for tomorrow.

Seoraksan National Park - Day 2

This time, I arrive straight for the 6:30 am bus to the park. Today, it seems to be a bit busier than yesterday. Maybe because it's Friday. I go straight for the Ulsanbawi Rock (846 m). I have due respect for the many steps up, but manage them in 1.45 hours - faster than expected! The scenery up here is gorgeous, and I make use of the drone. Fortunately, Koreans are tech fanatics. A drone in Germany often is considered suspicious, whereby here it creates curiosity, and people come over to have a look at the screen. One the way back, I take it easy and am glad that my knees don’t cause me trouble.

Sokcho Harbor

After a long coffee break I return to Sokcho, where I have a rest before I explore the harbour, and later walk again around the market. I like the city. For tomorrow, I’ve bought a bus ticket to Pohang, and from there, it's only 45 minutes to Gyeongju.

Gyeongju - The Golden City

Gyeongju was the capital of the ancient kindom of Silla (57 B.C. to 935 A.D.), which ruled almost two-thirds of the Korean Peninsula. At this time, it became one of the largest cities in the world. Today, around 265,000 people live here.

I like the city, as there are many things to explore, and my guesthouse Doran Doran is located perfectly.

It is said that Cheomseongdae is the oldest astronomical observatory in Asia, dating back to the 7th century. At that time, people believed that heaven was round and earth was square. Close to the site, there is a patch of grass that turns pink during autumn times. It's a favourite photo spot for local selfie-takers - and therefore became my favourite spot, too.

Woljeonggyo Bridge

The bridge was built in the Silla period and burnt down during the Joseon dynasty. It was rebuilt in April 2018. A beautiful bridge, especially for sunset. Unfortunately, there is a festival ongoing with restricted access, so I can take pictures only from the side.

Today, I'm longing for some international food which I get at the DOMI Kitchen. The pizza is fabulous and the staff great. The owner and the waiter are photo enthusiastic, having their Leicas even with them in the restaurant.

Bulguksa Temple

This UNESCO World Heritage Site Temple (entrance fee 6,000 Won) is a must-see while in Gyeongju. It's a bit outside the city and can be reached in 25 minutes by bus. It was built between 751 and 774 and served as center for Silla Buddhism and to pray there for the protection of the country from foreign invasion. Somehow, nobody told the Japanese about the prayers when they burnt the temple down in 1593. It wasn't completely restored until 1969-1973.

The site is beautiful, especially the autumn leaves of the surrounding trees. I go straight for the first entry 8:00 h (weekends, otherwise 9:00 h), which is a good idea, as by 9:00 h it already becomes very busy. I walk around the compound for 2.5 hours, as there are so may photo opportunities.

On the way back to the bus I encounter some strange-looking food at a stall. I'm curious but don't want to buy a full cup, as it looks like some sort of insects. Finally, I buy some chestnuts and ask for a trial of the strange puppies. Well, a bit nutty, slightly crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside, not really bad but also not really my taste, I decide. Later, I will find out that these are boiled silkworm pupae, called Beondegi, a popular snack food in Korea, especially among older people. It first became popular as a wartime food during the Korean War, since its excellent nutritional value and wide availability were helpful to people in need of a stable supply of protein.

Strolling around Gyeongju city

Woji Pond

Wolji Pond is an artificial pond of the ancient Silla period (57 B..C to 935 A.D.). It's ravishingly beautiful - and therefore busy - after sunset, as it's nicely lid up. Walking around the pond takes only 20 minutes, but of course I stayed much longer to take some pictures (like everyone else).

Today's dinner I have at a very traditional Korean eatery. Not the fanciest place, but very delicious local food for a very reasonable price. I really love trying all the side dishes.

Very popular with the younger people are photo booth places. There are all kinds of decoration items around, so you make yourself looking whatever you like and then you have your picture taken by a photo booth. Funny concept, I wonder if that would work in Germany.

Daereungwong tombs

The tomb complex contains 23 large tombs, the most famous being Cheonmachong and Hwangnamdaechong from the Silla period. I arrive extra early at 9:00 h to avoid the crowds, but at 10:00 h the place is already full of school classes. There is a small museum that shows a tomb and some of the precious burial objects, which is quite nice.

Busan

A bus from Gyeongju to Busan takes only a bit more than one hour. Some buses even go directly to Haeundae, the most famous neighbourhood in Busan, due to its wide beach. Peak season is summertime, when the beach is packed with sun lovers. It's a good place if the focus is the beach, however to explore Busan it's not ideal, as distances to other places of interest are quite long. Seomyeon, at the intersection of metro 1 & 2 probably is the better choice. Well, I take it as a lesson learnt. Nevertheless, when staying in Haeundae, the MAMA Guesthouse is a good choice.

In the afternoon, I take a nice coastal walk around the small Donbaeckson peninsula, which offers great views towards Haeundae. The sunset I enjoy at Gwangalli Beach.

Busan Cine Center

On the way back to Haeundae, I stop for the Busan Cine Center, which is the venue for the annual Busan International Film Festival. The building has the worldwide biggest cantilever roof and won several architecture awards. Quite impressive, but the area itself is totally dead late in the evening. Probably another world when there is an event going on.

Songdo

It takes almost 1.5 hours by metro and bus to reach Songdo from Hongdae. The distances in Busan are really huge. My plan is to walk the Songdo Coast Bollegil Trail, but when I arrive I find out that the latest typhoon in September has completely destroyed the walkways. What a shame! I spend some time at the Songdo Sky Deck, which offers great views towards Songdo Beach, then I take the bus to the beach which is surprisingly beautiful, considering it's a city beach.

Gamcheon Culture Village

Gamcheon Culture Village is a famous Instagram spot - and for a good reason! Thousands of colourful houses built on terraces make for a stunning view. Good fun to walk around the village. Ensure taking with you a map from the tourist information which suggests different walkways. Best view for me is from the Avant Gard Café, however unfortunately the coffee is lousy.

Jagalchi Fish Market

Jagalchi Fish Market is the largest seafood market in South Korea, selling both live and dried seafood. A must-visit while in Busan. The brave can even try to eat or chew raw octopus, which -although physically dead - still moves its arms for quite a while after. Chewing thoroughly is the key to survive, as every year some people die suffocating, when the still active arms suck themselves to the throat. The octopuses' late revenge! Well, today I'm not brave, and instead try the famous fishcake, which is a popular snack all over Asia, but said to be the best here in Busan. Yummy!!!

Food experience

Some more culinary delights today: Mung Bean Pancake, which reminds me of potato pancakes, and a sweet waffle filled with mozzarella. Both very delicious! Also chestnuts are widely available at this time of the year, which actually taste like... ahem... chestnuts. No surprise this time!

Busan at night

I especially like the name of the premium adult shop. A name that fits!

Busan Metro

Almost everyone in the metro is using their mobiles for playing games, watching movies, surfing the web or chatting.

Gukje Market

This morning, I visit the Gukje Market, which is not far from the Jagalchi Fish Market. A huge shopping district with a myriad of small shops that sell everything people need and don't need. Well, worth exploring for one or two hours.

Korean Jimjilbang

Time to relax. A visit of a Korean Jimjilbang needs to be ticked off my Korean bucket list. Jimjilbangs are public bathhouses with hot tubes, showers, traditional saunas, massage and relax areas. The Spa Land is the most popular one in Busan, and I wonder what awaits me. The nice thing is that totally nothing is required to bring with you. At the reception, I get a set of comfortable clothes, which I quickly learn I only need later for the unisex area. The first part is separated for men/women: the shower, hot tube and steam bath which is used naked. I like that all kind of rubs, soaps, lotions and towels are freely available. Back in the wardrobe, I put the clothes provided on and off I go to the common area which is really huuuuuuuge, with plenty of relax areas inside and outside, a restaurant and plenty of different saunas. Coming from the German sauna culture, it's strange for me to keep the clothes on, even inside the saunas. Quite an interesting experience. During the week, it's not busy but I read it's better to avoid weekends, as it's a popular activity for Korean families and it can get very crowed. Nevertheless, for the full Korean cultural experience, that would probably be the perfect time for a visit.

Night Atmosphere

Hadeong Yonggungsa Temple

The temple was built in 1376, and of course destroyed during the Japanese invasion in the 16th century. I wonder if the Japanese left a single temple untouched during that war period.

Located right at the sea, it's said to be the most beautiful temple in Korea, hence extremely popular and very busy. I decide to start early in order to enjoy the atmosphere less crowded and in good morning light.

Theoretically, it could have work that way. But despite still empty when I arrive 8:00 h, the sunlight is already too bright, and taking pictures is challenging. But the biggest nuisance is a guy with his enormous leaf blower sounding like a fleet of starting airplanes. I'm sure, besides removing the few leaves from the ground, his devilish hidden agenda is to blow away any serenity and holiness of this place. And gosh, he does a great job! I'm sure he even follows me by purpose, wandering around the site, not wasting any unheard decibel. When, after 45 minutes, his task finally seems to be finished, his colleague takes over with a circular saw, ensuring that not accidentally any tranquillity comes back. Bad, bad luck!!! When I finally and tortured leave, several big tour groups enter the place.

The Bay 101 Marina

The Bay Marina is a good place to watch Busan Skyscrapers. I can imagine that it's also nice at night.

Café Rooftop

My ongoing Korean café exploration mission brings me this afternoon, after some web research, to the Café Rooftop. What a sensational place - good coffee, cozy interior, fantastic view, nice chats with a couple from Hongkong and three guys from Malaysia. My favourite coffee spot so far!

Haeundae - X the Sky

For the sunset today, I decide to visit X the Sky. The second highest skyscraper in Korea with more than 400 m. Not cheap, but a fantastic view. The elevator covers the 400 m in less than 40 seconds - amazing! A stunning, pin sharp video is shown in the cabin going up into the air with a hot-air balloon and down the sea on the way back.

Haenundae at night

My time in Busan is over and Jeju Island is waiting next, the honeymoon and leisure island of Korea.