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Solomon Islands - Between War Relicts and Wild Islands

Part 9 - Around the World 06/2015 - 02/2016

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

August 23^rd, 2015

To make it short, I liked the Solomon Islands. authentic, few tourists, shy but friendly people and a touch of adventure. Next time I would probably spend 3-4 more days for a visit to Malaite, which is a cultural hot spot I was told. From Honiara I took a flight to Seghe to relax a couple of days in the Matikuri Lodge. After that I arranged a boat to bring me over the open sea to the mystic Tetepare island and later to Munda having an overnight stop on the way at the local village of Egholo.

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Solomon Islands - Between War Relicts and Wild Islands

Honiara

Honiara is not a beautiful city nor a very safe one although I never felt unsafe avoiding the two streets I was told. Many people smiled at me, greeted friendly and were helpful when asked for direction. On the other site, all hotel and guesthouses have watchmen in the evening/night time and shops often have a watchmen sitting on a 1,5m high chair overlooking the shops interior to avoid thefts. Unemployment rate is high, especially under the younger generation, probably leading to some crime problems. It´s a melting pot for all tribes around the Solomon Islands and thus a interesting place for people watching.

I stayed at the St. Agnes Mother Union Guesthouse which is mostly used from local travelers. Everyone was extremely friendly and I had some interesting discussions with the staff, a priest and other guest. The only working TV channel in the guesthouse was a kind of Bible TV but what else to expect in a guesthouse run by a church.

Next to the guesthouse was a ramshackle pub and the music was really good (70th and 80th) but loud and kinda disturbing in the night. Well, according to the motto „If you can´t defeat the enemy, make him your ally“ I went over to check out the local bar scene, a little bit nervous about the upcoming experience. And an experience it was, 2 pool tables,1 dart board and 30 pairs of locals eyes scanning me when I entered. Suprisingly within 2 minutes I found myself, a Solomon Brew in the hand, fully integrated talking to the locals that came continuously over for a chat. Some were a bit drunken but all nice and polite. The owner showed proud a German flag next to the TV, explaining he is a big fan of the German soccer team. Soccer is general a good topic as Solomon people love soccer and Muller (Thomas Müller). I had a great time.

WW2 Sites on GuaLcanal

The Solomon Islands saw the first land based activities of the Americans in WW2 to stop the Japanese progress in the pacific. There were several heavy fights on sea, air and land until finally the Japanese were defeated on the Solomon Islands. There are quite some battlefields with names like Iron Botton Sound (masses of sunken Japanese and American vessels) oder Bloody Ritch (a place where the Americans withstand several Japanese attacks). Close to the shore lie two sunken Japanese supply vessels, Bonegi 1 and Bonegi 2. The later one, showing some part above water, is a very good place for snorkeling.

Bonegi 2, a sunken Japanese support vessel. Great for snorkeling.

Flying in the SOLOMON'S, a personal Experience

Flying in the Solomons is a very special experience. The planes are small 9 or 18 seaters, some of the airports are just a gras landing strip and a hut beside and passenger handling is very personal. When I arrived at Honiara Airport 1,5h before the domestic flight, it was completely deserted. The counter opened 1h before the flight but most guest came just 15-30 min before. There were no boarding cards nor assigned seats. Names during boarding were just checked with a printed list. Security was more interesting in a chat than checking my hand luggage properly and they didn´t care at all about the can of fanta I was drinking during the security check. The security instruction by the Co-Pilot took max. 1 min, turning backward from his seat of the open cockpit. Shortly after departure from Honiara we suddenly returned and were told on the ground the weather in Seghe is not good and the flight needs to be postponed to the next day.

Later in Munda I wanted to postpone my flight by a day. As I could not phone ahead I just came 1,5 hour before the planned flight and asked. I was told this is usually no problem as there are always seats available and the computer system is currently not running anyway. I asked for a new ticket or print out of proof but was told: „No problem, I know you now. Just come at 10 o´clock tomorrow.“ I came checked in and was told to be back at 13:30. When I did, boarding was almost finished, I just made it into the plane (nobody cared that I skipped security) and the plane started 45min before schedule. Well, flying in the Solomon‘s is special and sometimes not even possible as a couple of airports were closed due to land disputes, meaning long ship transfers to those places.

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Morova lagoon

Morova lagoon is one of the biggest saltwater lagoons in the world. It was nominated for World Heritage listing but was soon cancelled after the surrounding forests were heavily logged and palm oil plantations were established. Logging is still ongoing and locals have different opinions about it. I talked to a tribal chief and he told me that even gold was found on their ground but he refuses mining and logging in the area (although under pressure from government site) as he thinks it´s not sustainable and the money is not good for the harmony of the tribe and will only cause problems. On the other site I met a couple of youngsters that welcomed the possibility to make some money on the logging vessels. For this generation the fast money counts more. It´s still a beautiful area but the logging effect can´t be denied.

Matikuri Lodge

When I went to the tourist information in Honiara and eventually told them that I plan to stay in the Matikuri Lodge they immediately smiled and said it were a good choice. And indeed it was. Matikuri is a wonderful place on a small island in the Morova Lagoon, 20 min. board ride from Seghe Airport. The Lodge is run by Benjamin and Jilly and they are great hosts. The accommodation with just 4 bungalow is basic but clean with nice open water verandas and the main house has a beautiful deck where I stayed most of the time, as there was always somebody around for a chat. Meals are taken together and everything felt very familiar and relaxed. There is some good snorkeling and swimming just from the deck and I also did some nice tours around the lagoon.

Thankfully to Carlos, Pete and Craig who came for fishing to the lodge we always had fantastic fresh fish for dinner. One day they managed to catch a yellowfin tuna and this evening we had a feast with sashimi, tuna rolls, tuna cevice and grilled tuna. I also learned that birds follow the big schools of fish (often tuna). So they are a good indicator and bringing the boat close to the birds will drastically increase the chance for a good catch. One night we went for a lobster spear fishing under full moon. It took almost 1,5 hours snorkeling an searching with lamps to get one. A hart earned meal.

There is a village not far from Matikuri and we went over by boat to have a walk around. We were guided to several houses of families and in each different kind of handmade souvenirs from the family were offered like carvings, paintings, baskets, etc. There was no pressure of buying at all, but knowing that I have no space for souvenirs anyway I always feel a bit uncomfortable in this situations.

Uepi Islands is a small dive resort owned by an Australian couple and seems to be very popular as it was already full when I tried to book it 6 month ahead. So together with some other guests from Matikuri I did a day tour for snorkeling. The snorkeling right from the jetty is outstanding, easily the best snorkeling spot I´ve ever been. The jetty is at a lagoon channel and there is a wall going down 30 to 40 meters. The visibility was great, also around 30 to 40 meters. Several black tip sharks are patrolling the channel coming very close and having a look at the snorkelers. There are masses of fishes, beautiful corals and huge giant clams just 2 meters under the surface. It was not easy to leave from here. Truly spectacular.

Faces of The Solomon´s

A big share in the relaxed atmosphere at Matikuri had Benjamin, Jilly and their family and friends.

Tetepare - The Last Wild Island

Uninhabited for 150 years, Tetepare is an island forgotten by time and swathed in mystery. There are many stories that explain why the island was abandoned – fear of head-hunting, ill health attributed to curses, even men being turned against one another by dangerous gossiping in the villages. But what makes this island truly extraordinary is that, in a country which has lost almost all of its forests to commercial logging, Tetepare remains untouched. At the beginning of this century, when the threat of logging loomed over Tetepare, the island‘s traditional landowners rejected logging offers and came together to save this pristine wilderness for themselves and for future generations. An organisation made up of local community members was created, to manage and protect the resources of the island as a conservation area.

It´s not easy to reach Tetepare. There is no regular boat transfer and arranged boat rides are expensive due to the long distance to cover and high petrol prices. The sea can be very rough and when I set off from Matikuri it was not even sure if we can make it or will need to return. Fortunately the sea was not too bad and 2,5 hours later, completely soaked, I set my foot on Tetepare just to find out I was the only guest. There are always 3 Rangers on Tetepare only joined by some extra staff if there are tourist on the island. So I had my own cook, a guide, a boatsmen and 2 general caretakers. Food was really tasty, mostly with fish, sweat potatoes and local vegetables.

The shoreline of Tetepare is nothing less than spectacular, with deserted beaches and a curtain of dramatic ancient and untouched rainforest. Glittering in the sun, the Islands looks like a emerald in the blue ocean. I was told that the weather side is even better, but could´t go due to the very rough sea there.

There are lots of animals on the Islands as huge parts are protected. Unfortunately the local dugongs that used to stay in the bay moved away since a tsunami 2010 destroyed the sea grass they were feeding on. But snorkeling still was good with many turtles and sharks around. Although I´m not scared of sharks, one big black tip made me quite nervous coming a bit to close to check me out and I was already thinking about the best defending strategy when he finally turned and vanished in the blue.

A day tour brought me along the coast to a small island and some custom sites with buried shell money and human bones. Headhunting was probably one reason why people left Tetepare 150 years ago. I was told it was not about the meat but for the fun of hunting and to proof the warriors strength. As more heads he could show as higher the status of a warrior.

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Faces of the Solomon´s

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Egholo Village - The first Tourist

Although Tetepare is a fascinating place, I felt a bit lonely and was not to sad to leave a day earlier taking the chance of a shared transport towards Munda. My plan was to stay one or two days somewhere in a village on the way. The boat driver mentioned a guesthouse in a village called Eghole and when we arrived and I saw the beautiful bay I knew that´s the place. It took a while to find Peza the owner of the guesthouse as he was working in his garden across the bay. He was surprised as normally only locals on a visit stay in the guesthouse, so I was the first tourist. The room was basic but clean, all I needed. It took not long and Kingsley (caretaker of the village) and Bozi came over to say hello and to take care of me. I felt very welcome and enjoyed to follow the village life and the chats with Kingsley, Bozi and Peza who where always around.

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Together with Bozi and a friend I made a tour to the garden area and some WW2 plane relicts. The plane parts were nothing special but the trip over the bay, upstream a river and thru the jungle to the gardens was absolut worthwhile. It was amazing how fast they made their way thru the jungle with their machetes. I barely could keep up with their speed.

It was a fantastic experience and I can only say thank you to Peza, Bozi, Kingsley and all the other that made this a memorable stay. I hope some more tourists will come in future to this beautiful and welcoming place.

Munda - Barney´s WW2 Museum

Barney startet 2002 to collect WW2 memories from the surrounding areas. There is lots of stuff gathered in his little museum and he can tell many stories about it. If I had a day left, I would go with Barney on an excursion to the battle sites were he founds all the things.

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