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Senegal and Gambia - The Gringo Vice Reunion

14 days roundtrip in January 2024

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

May 1^st, 2024

MOTIVATION - WHY TO GO?

To be honest West Africa is not under my favourite regions, but I´m still curious enough to learn more about this countries and what better way exists then doing it with all my senses on site, together with my old travel buddy Marcus. Especially as our first trip together, touring 4 month through Middle and South America, was 25 years ago. Perfect time for a "Gringo Vice" anniversary reunion!!!

Senegal is often considered as the entry level country for West Africa, due to its political stability and rather good tourist infrastructure mainly targeting to French tourists. Gambia is fully enclosed by Senegal and therefore easily incorporated into a trip. Also there are no Visa requirements for Germans, and after the disaster Marcus had with the lost passport by UPS with the Sudan Visa back in 2021, we decided to go the easy way this time, rather than our first idea with Guinea Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone and Liberia. In this case we would have needed a visa for EACH country and we were not brave enough for that challenge, at least not this year 😉

So Senegal, The Gambia, here we come.

Senegal - Facts and Figures

Size: 196,722 sq. km
Population: ~18,4 million
Capital and biggest city: Dakar, with 1.2 million inhabitants
Ethnic groups: 40% Wolof, 28% Fula, 16% Serer, 16% Others
Languages: Wolof, Serer, Diola,…. French
Currency: West African CFA, 1000 XOF = 1,52€ (03/2024)

Senegal and Gambia - The Gringo Vice Reunion

The Gambia - Facts and Figures

Size: 11,300 sq. km
Population: ~2,5 million
Capital: Banjul
Ethnic groups: 34% Mandinka, 24% Fula, 15% Wolof, 17% Others
Religion: 96% Islam, 4% Christianity
Languages: English (official), diverse local languages
Currency: Gambian Dalasi, 100 GMD = 1,36€ (03/2024)
Geographically, Gambia is the smallest country in continental Africa

Climate and Best Travel Time

The dry season, from November to April, offers cooler temperatures and minimal rainfall, making it an ideal time to explore Senegal's and Gambia’s diverse landscapes and attractions. This period also coincides with the prime wildlife viewing season in parks such as Niokolo-Koba National Park, Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary and the Gambia River.

Both countries experience a hot, humid climate during the wet season, which runs from May to October. This period can be characterized by heavy rainfall, high humidity, and the potential for tropical storms, making travel less comfortable and some roads impassable.

Itinerary

Marcus organised the privat trip with the German owned agency Vero Tour, located in Bamako Mali, which was the local operating agency on our trip to Ghana, Togo and Benin back in 2018. Based on our time limit of 14 days Veronica, the owner, suggested an itinerary which we only slightly adjusted to incorporate a two nights stay at the Chimp Rehabilitation Project Ecocamp in Gambia.

Dakar (2 nights), Ile de Gorée - Casa Mara Guesthouse
Dakar - Lac Rose – St. Louis (2 nights) - Hotel Mermoz
St-Louis – Touba – Kaolack (1 night) - Hotel Le Relais
Kaolack – Kudang (2 nights) - Chimp rehabilitation center
Kudang - Tendaba (1 night) - Tentaba Camp
Tendaba - Banjul (1 night) - Kololi Beach Resort
Banjul – Toubacouta (1 night) - Hotel Keur Saloum
Toubakouta – Ndangane (1 night) - Hotel les Cordons Bleus
Ndangane - Bandia – Saly (1 night) - Hotel Club Royal Saty

Arrivial

Unfortunately, there are no direct flights from Frankfurt to Senegal. The best option was with TAP via Lisbon to Dakar and back with Iberia via Madrid.

The flight to Lisbon is only 2/3 full, we get a seat in the emergency row, which is quite comfortable. Unfortunately, we are less lucky on the flight to Dakar. The legroom on the four-hour flight in the rather new Airbus 321neo is more than questionable for my 1.85m height.

Dakar

Our guide Yébé and driver Serign meet us at the airport. Tired, we reach our hotel, Casa Mara, in the city of Dakar at 3 a.m.

Hotel Casa Mara

After a short night, we drive into the centre of Dakar, the capital of Senegal with a population of over 2 million.

The city was founded in 1857 and is the oldest European-style city in West Africa. We visit the Independence Square and the Kermel Market.

Next we head to the old port quay for a 20-minute boat ride to Goree Island, first settled by Europeans in the 15th century. We explore the interior of the island, which was the centre of the slave trade for 300 years. We visit the Maison des Esclaves with the infamous "Door of No Return".

Despite its past, the island today has a charming and relaxed atmosphere and we regret not spending the night here.

The Maison des Esclaves with the "Door of no Return"

Back at the harbour.

In the evening we drive to the imposing Monument de la Renaissance Africaine, a 49 metre high bronze statue erected by the former President of Senegal, Abdoulaye Wade.

Today, we leave at 8 a.m. It's dusty and the traffic is slow. Lorries, cars, buses, motorbikes and horse-drawn carriages share the roads, which gets a bit chaotic when we're passing through a village. There are many villages on the way to Lac Rose.

Lac Rose

Lac Rose is a salt lagoon, famous for its red colour. This year there has been a lot of rain, so the water level is quite high and the red colour has disappeared. We were informed in advance, so we are not too disappointed. We take a pirogue tour and learn about salt mining in the lake. It's not regulated, so anyone can do it and it's good money, we learn. But it's a hard job and so we see mainly well-built men, many from neighbouring countries like Mali. They use a boat, stand on stilts in the water and use a long shovel to dig out the salt from the bottom, into a basket. The salt is washed on the spot and taken to the shore, where the women unload it and put it on pits. From time to time sellers come by.

Saint Louis

The next stop is Saint Louis, the former capital of the French colony of Soudan François. Fortunately the traffic is much lighter, but to our dismay the roads are lousy for half the distance, almost reminding me of offroading in Mongolia. We see dusty villages but also lush green vegetable fields and think we will never make it in 4 hours as planned, but rather double the time. Then suddenly the roads becomes perfectly paved and with only a few villages on the way, we reach Saint Louis just as planned.

Our Hotel Mermoz is right on the beach. The bungalows are simple, but the surroundings are beautiful. Only a handful of locals and French tourists seem to be staying here tonight, so it's very quiet. The powdery beach is huge, endless and almost empty,.... well apart from the rubbish.

In the afternoon, we take a typical horse-drawn carriage tour of Saint Louis. The old colonial town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. Most of the houses look run down, but the old part has a nice kind of morbid and relaxed charm. Some areas are bustling with people going about their daily lives. It's a mixture of children playing, shopkeepers and customers, people hanging around and chatting, horse cards of all kinds, etc. The smell of the town reminds us that St Louis is a fishing town and the harbour and beach are full of colourful fishing boats. There is a lot to see.

At 8 a.m., we depart for Djoudj National Park, which is located 60km away from St. Louis, near the border of Mauritania. This park is the third-largest bird sanctuary in the world and is protected by UNESCO. The park is home to over 350 bird species, including many migrating birds that travel from Europe and Russia during the winter.

The journey to the park is tiring, as it takes two hours on a mostly bad dirt road. During the subsequent two-hour boat tour, we observe numerous birds. The large flocks of pelicans are impressive, particularly when they fly with their expansive wingspans just centimetres above the water, resembling fighter squadrons. The light is a bit harsh. It would be great to shoot here in the early morning, but well, travelling means making compromises from time to time.

After taking an afternoon break at the hotel and enjoying a refreshing swim in the pool, we visit the Réserve Spéciale de Faune de Gueumbeul. This reserve serves as a breeding ground for endangered tortoises and gazelles, which are then released into other parks around the country. We are impressed by the dedication of the guides and staff to their work and received a very informative tour.

For dinner, we go to the old quarter in St. Louis and eat at Chez Dazo, an authentic and charming place run by two ladies. The meal is delicious and for 15€ for the two of us it is great value. I order gambas rolls and later gambas with couscous and Marcus has mafe, a classic dish with peanut sauce. We also try bissap juice, which is basically cold tea made from hibiscus flowers. Although slightly sour, it is refreshing.

Excursus: traditional food and drink

I would not say, that Senegal and Gambia are a culinary "El Dorado" but there are some traditional dishes that are definitely worth a try while in the region.

Thiebou - a base of rice cooked in a tomato sauce served with stewed cabbage, carrots, cassava, squash, okra, tomato, jaxatu (bitter tomato), tamarind sauce, fish stuffed with rof, a parsley-garlic-onion-pepper paste and finally a sprinkling of savoury burnt rice from the bottom of the pan known as khogn. Senegalese typically eat it at lunchtime only. I like it.

Mafé - It's a flavorful peanut stew made with meat (usually lamb, beef, or chicken), vegetables (like carrots, sweet potatoes, and cabbage), tomatoes, onions, and of course, peanut butter or ground peanuts. It's a dish that combines savory, nutty, and slightly sweet flavors for a truly unique taste experience. It's our favourite dish

Yassa - marinated beef, chicken or fish with caramelised onion and mustard lemon sauce that gives the dish its signature zing.

Attaya - green tea, very sweet, often sold on the street. Senegalese love it. We tried it for a real sugar shock. Replaces the candy bar.

Today we have a long drive to Kaolack, with a stop in Touba to visit the Grand Mosque. We start early and enjoy the peaceful morning atmosphere.

The well-paved road to Touba runs through a rather dry area with yellowish grass and smaller trees, mostly tamarisks. It only rains for 2-3 months a year. Occasionally, we pass dusty villages with plenty of rubbish on the roadside.

We stop in Kebemer, which is a surprisingly nice village with tree-lined roads and friendly, relaxed locals, to buy a melon. It's melon season and there are lots of stalls on the side of the road selling giant melons.

Touba

We manage the 180km to Touba in 3 hours. Touba is Senegal's most renowned Sufi city and home to the Murid order, which is the country's largest Sufi institution with approximately three million followers. It is worth noting that alcohol and tobacco are prohibited in Touba, and there is no police force. We do not quite understand how this system works, but it is interesting.

It´s Friday and people are preparing for the 2 p.m. prayer at the Mosque. A guide is mandatory to visit the Mosque, and ours is quite an experienced one. Although the Mosque is not old, it is still impressive. The atmosphere has an African-style chill to it, and many people greet or chat with us. Taking photos is also not a problem.

Kaolack

Around 3 p.m., we arrive in Kaolack, a dilapidated, dusty town. The main businesses here are the peanut industry and salt harvesting at the Saloum river.

Our hotel Le Relais de Kaolak is located next to the river. On the opposite side, we can see huge salt pits and harvesting equipment. However, the smell of rotten eggs occasionally blows across the river and hits us harder than the view, yukkkkk.

Overall, the hotel is functional with bungalows and a nice garden setting, although it has seen better days. Still, we think this is the best hotel in town, as even the Prime Minister has decided to stay here tonight.

As we have some time, we visit the local market, which is, typical African style, very colourful.

Border Crossing to Gambia

Today, the plan is to cross the border to Gambia and head further to the Chimp Rehabilitation Project Ecocamp. We expect the border crossing to be easy, but well, this is Africa. In Senegal, they forget to stamp my exit, and when I asked for it, they mistakenly give me an entry stamp instead. Only after I complain again do I finally get the exit stamp I need. After walking to the Gambian border, we queue up in the long immigration line but nothing happens for about 20 minutes. Suddenly, all the locals in front of us are able to pass without being checked. Now in the front, the officer spent five minutes fiddling with his PC before another officer collects our passports and asks us into the building. After waiting in front of yet another officer for ten minutes, while her child arrives with food, we are told that we have to go to the immigration office in the next town. What the f.... !!! After a short search in town, we finally find the office and are asked by an officer to sit down in the dilapidated room. 20 minutes later, another officer appears and leads us into his prison-like and completely disorganised office. An old German typewriter stands in the corner, but a PC has also found its way into the office. After a brief chat, we finally receive our entry stamp. Overall an annoying procedure but nothing compared to my 7-hour torture between the Sudanese and Egyptian borders two years ago.

We enjoy our freedom for 10 minutes until we reach the second police checkpoint. Unfortunately, Yébé forgot to buckle up, resulting in a 15-minute discussion and a fine of 30,000 FCA. One kilometer later, we encounter the third checkpoint, but we pass it without any issues. After two hours, ten checkpoints and countless small villages, we finally arrive at the Ecocamp.

Chimp Rehabilitation Project Ecocamp

The camp is beautifully located on the riverbank. The tents are pitched on a raised platform with spectacular views over the river and forest.

The Chimp Rehabilitation Project was founded over 40 years ago by Stella Brewer with the objective of providing a safe environment for chimps to live in. Currently, over 120 chimps reside on three different islands in the Gambia River. The camp was established just over 10 years ago and has been kept at a low level. The focus of the project is clearly on the chimps. When Stella died in 2008, her long-time co-director Janis Carter took over. We are fortunate to meet her and have the opportunity to listen to her stories.

The other guests are mostly from Canada and work for the embassy or NGOs in Senegal and Ethiopia.

In the afternoon, we take a boat tour around the islands inhabited by the chimps and observe three groups right by the riverbank. In addition to the chimpanzees, we also observe baboons, hippos, and a variety of birds.

Enjoying the sunset at the river. At night, we take a guided walk to spot nocturnal bush babies. Although we see at least 10, they move too quickly to capture in photos. The night sky is stunning.

A wonderful morning atmosphere awaits us. We sit on our platform, hot coffee in hand, and enjoy the sunrise over the Gambia river. The temperature is perfect, birds are singing their songs, and small monkeys are roaming the area.

During the morning boat tour, we observe abundant bird life, much more than in the evening. We stop to walk up to a viewpoint with a great view over the Gambia River.

We take a break during the day as it gets pretty hot around noon, but our outdoor shower helps us cool down a bit.

During the afternoon boat ride, we see more chimpanzees, crocodiles, hippos and birds. We also spot several tour boats from the other side of the river. They are only allowed in some public areas, but must obey the park rules and keep a 50m distance from the chimpanzees. However, not all of them do, and as a result, our camp guide has to give them a firm order to move back. This leads to quite an argument but at the end they obey, as in worst case, they can lose their license.

Enjoying another incredible sunset.

On the way to Tentaba

We have a lot of driving ahead of us today and we are concerned about making it to our destination on time due to the numerous checkpoints. In Janjanbureh, we need to cross the Gambia River by ferry, fortunately without losing too much time.

Shortly after, we reach the UNESCO side of Wassu, where we observe 1000 to 1500 years old stone circles, which are believed to be bural sites. One of the stone circles even appears on the back of the 50 dollar bill.

Tentaba Camp

After travelling 140 km and passing through 24 police and military checkpoints, we finally arrive at Tentaba Camp. Although the camp has seen better days and the pool looks like a hippo pond our VIP AC bungalow is clean and looks OK. The staff is very friendly.

At 4 p.m., we take a boat trip to the mangroves, but first we have to cross the Gambia River, which is already 1.5 km wide. The area is renowned for its abundant birdlife, and we are fortunate to observe many species. However, morning would likely provide even better opportunities for birdwatching.

Sunset beer on the pier

On the way to Banjul

Today we have a full programme. In three hours, we drive to the coast, stopping at 15 checkpoints along the way.

Tanji is a small fishing village that leaves a strong impression. The people are friendly, but the streets and beach are littered with rubbish. The fish is sold right on the beach. Women, wearing colourful clothes, collect the leftovers from the fish unloading process on the shoreline.

After visiting Tanji, we head for the Bijilo forest. Finding the entrance is a challenge due to construction, but it is worth the search to see the red colobus and green monkeys up close. Visitors can purchase bananas and peanuts to feed them, and as a result, the animals are accustomed to human presence and come quite close. Once they have enough, they can move to another forest area without visitors.

The Kachikally Crocodile Pool is a sacred pool that is home to around 100 crocodiles. They are fed only fish and do not view humans as natural prey. It is possible to walk between the crocodiles and even touch their belly or tail, which is much softer than expected. It is important to approach them from behind and not from the front, just in case one crocodile has a fish allergy and wants to try something different. What a cool experience. Completely unthinkable in Europe.

Banjul

With only 60,000 inhabitants, Banjul, the capital of Gambia, feels more like a large village. I appreciate the atmosphere, which is charmingly run-down rather than filthy. The overall pace is more relaxed than one would expect in a capital. We visit the sprawling Albert market, the commercial hub of the city, before making our way back to the hotel.

Of all the places we have stayed overnight so far, Kololi Beach Resort is the closest to mass tourism. It clearly targets an English clientele. We are slightly disappointed with our room, although the resort ground is large and beautiful, the room is a bit too basic and not what we had in mind at such a place. The beachfront is about 500 meters away, but it is a pleasant place to spend time. Security is present to prevent vendors from entering the resort grounds and harassing guests on their way to the beach. The staff is friendly and helpful, and we enjoy talking to them. Football is a major topic of interest with the African Cup of Nations starting on Saturday and Gambia playing Senegal on Monday.

We start early and skip breakfast because the ferry crossing the Gambia River can be troublesome, although less so since the bridge opened 100km upstream, which we took coming from Senegal.

And indeed, the crossing itself will take us more than 3 hours, but we don't mind because there is so much to see while waiting for the ferry and during the crossing.

All kinds of sellers try to find customers for their flacons, earplugs, phone cases, food, drinks, necklaces, and more.

Border crossing is much easier this time and takes only 0.5 hours.

Toubakouta

We arrive at Keur Saloum, our hotel for the night, at 2 p.m., which is a pleasant surprise. Although the bungalow is a bit rundown as usual, it is set in a beautiful garden with colourful flowers. The pool and restaurant area also looks promising and there is a lookout point with a 180 degree view over the extensive mangroves.

In the afternoon, we take a boat trip through the mangrove area, which covers several hundred square miles and is connected by countless waterways. Initially, we do not see many birds until we reach a small mangrove island. An hour before sunset, hundreds of birds suddenly appear, having obviously chosen this island as their overnight spot. Cormorants, egrets, and pelicans compete for the best spots. The large pelicans occupy the highest perches on the mangroves, while the smaller birds are below. The smaller you are, the lower you sit, the more shit you have to endure coming from the top. Any analogy’s to human life? Judge for yourself.

In the morning, we take a pirogue through the mangrove forests to the fishing village of Sipo in the Sine Saloum Delta. The majority of the villagers here rely on fishing for their livelihoods, and the village lacks basic amenities such as electricity, running water, and roads.

We visit the village's school and a small souvenir market, where we purchase souvenirs, including honey from the mangroves, to support the local community.

Ndangane

We then proceed by car to the village of Ndangane on the other side of the Sine-Saloum Delta. The route passes through a sometimes surprisingly arid landscape. Due to roadwork on the normal and shorter route, we take a detour via Kaolack. Unfortunately, the National Road from Mali to Dakar is heavily congested with trucks, resulting in frequent stop-go traffic.

The journey takes a tiring 4 hours instead of the expected 2, but we are relieved when we finally arrive at our destination, Hotel Cordons Bleus. There is no program this afternoon, so we relax by the pool and in the evening share a last tequila with Serin.

On the way to Saly

In the morning, on our way to Saly, we make a stop at the Sacred Baobab, an enormous example of its kind, surrounded by souvenir shops

Next, we visit Fadiouth, an island completely built from mussel shells and inhabited by around 3000 people, 90% of whom are Christians. The church stands next to the mosque, and the cemetery is used by both religions. We also see pigs and plenty of dogs.

Saly

After a short stop to check into our hotel, the Royal in Saly, we drive to the Reserve de Bandia. The private game park is well-managed, and we see a lot of game, which are not shy at all.

Saly is a popular beach holiday destination, and many guests in the hotel seem to be here for all-inclusive holidays. As we have a late flight, the program for today is to relax at the beach. Although it's not my favourite activity, after 12 days of sightseeing every day, it's not the worst option, I have to admit.

As expected, most of the reclining chairs are reserved even before breakfast, but remain unoccupied. The breakfast options are rather limited for such a place. Nevertheless, we manage to find a shady spot under a palm tree. The day is saved.

To clean the beach, a small hole is dug and the rubbish is placed inside, covered with sand. However, the success of this method is obviously limited.

Although there are many beach sellers displaying colourful clothes and tissues, the guards ensure that they do not approach beyond the first tree line. Even outside this area, they are not persistent and a simple 'no, thank you' suffices. Some tourists even actively approach them, so it seems to work for both parties.

It has been 25 years since Marcus and I took our first trip together, backpacking through Middle and South America for four months. Even though we are now in Africa, we decided it was time to renew our "Gringo Vice" shirts as a tribute to that legendary trip.

We finally return to freezing Germany on a punctual Iberia flight via Madrid.

Final Verdict

As I mentioned at the beginning, West Africa is not my preferred region. While I had a positive and enjoyable experience in Senegal and Gambia, my opinion on the matter has not changed. Some of my personal highlights included the unique charm of Saint-Louis, the birdwatching in Djoudj, the Mosque in Touba, and of course, the Chimp Rehabilitation Center. However, I am unsure if both countries created a feeling that I would want to revisit them in the future. I'm afraid not. There are many other countries I would prioritise higher for a revisit. Nevertheless, I would say that it is definitely worth visiting Senegal and Gambia, especially if you are interested in the region. The two countries are probably your easiest bet.

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