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Scotland - Castles, Coast and Kilts

A 21-day road trip in May 2025

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

February 22^nd, 2026

Motivation - Why to Go?

Who hasn't seen the iconic film Braveheart, starring Mel Gibson, in which history is set against the dramatic and epic landscapes of the Scottish Highlands? Even more than 700 years later, the fight for Scottish independence against the English continues. Fortunately, the weapons have changed — swords have been replaced by votes. In 2014, a narrow majority voted to remain, but attitudes have shifted again since Brexit. Already a while ago I decided that it was worth exploring this stubbornness on site. We had booked ferries and guesthouses for a trip in 2020, but the pandemic forced us to stay in Germany. We decided to try again, only to find that prices for guesthouses had almost doubled since then, and that Edinburgh had recently been rated the most expensive European destination for a weekend trip. Holy cow!

Climate and Best Travel Time

Scotland’s climate is classified as temperate maritime, characterized by cool summers, mild winters, and frequent rainfall throughout the year. Due to its northern latitude and varied landscape—from coastal lowlands to rugged Highlands—the weather can be quite changeable.

May to September is the most favorable period for visiting Scotland, with longer daylight hours, milder weather, and many cultural events like the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. June and July offer the best chance for warm, dry days, perfect for hiking, sightseeing, and exploring the islands. For fewer crowds and autumn colors, September and early October are also great choices. Winter attracts visitors interested in festive celebrations, castle visits, and winter sports in the Highlands, but be prepared for shorter daylight and colder weather.

Facts and Figures

Size: 78,000 sq km (around 30th largest in Europe)
Population: About 5.5 million
Capital & Largest City: Edinburgh (population ~550,000)
Religions: Predominantly Christianity (Church of Scotland and Roman Catholic), with growing diversity
Languages: English is dominant; Scottish Gaelic and Scots are also spoken
Currency: British Pound Sterling (GBP)
Fun Fact: Scotland is known as the birthplace of golf, with the Old Course at St Andrews dating back to the 15th century.

Itinerary

Scotland might not look too big, and three weeks might seem like a long time. But there is certainly enough to see for a six-week itinerary, so I had to make compromises. After doing some research, I was confident that the itinerary below would provide a good overall overview of the country, and I was not proved wrong.

I booked most of the accommodation via Airbnb and a few places via Booking.com.

Sterling (4 nights) - exploring Sterling, Glasgow, Loch Lomond
Tobermory (3 nights) - exploring Isle of Mull
Fort William (2 nights)
Portree (4 nights) - exploring Isle of Skye
Gairlich (1 night) - on the NC500
Ullapool (1 night) - on the NC500
Beauly (2 nights) - exploring Loch Ness and Glen Affric
Pitlochry (1 nights)
Edinburgh (3 nights)

Arrival

The flight to Edinburgh is problem-free, as is the automated border control process (EU citizens need to obtain an ESTA beforehand, since 25. April). Within 45 minutes, we are sitting in our rental car, a Nissan Qashqai.

Just 30 minutes later we find ourselves standing in awe before The Kelpies — two colossal horse-head sculptures rising 30 meters high from the landscape near Falkirk.

These shimmering steel giants, are inspired by Scottish folklore and the powerful draught horses of the canals. Walking beneath their towering forms, we feel dwarfed and strangely humbled. At sunset, the Kelpies glow in golden hues, reflecting in the water of the canal basin — a photographer’s dream.

Just before we reach our accommodation, we stop at a monument honouring David Stirling, founder of the SAS (the British Special Forces). There is a great view of the Scottish countryside from here, and it's a peaceful place to get out and stretch the legs.

Sterling and Surroundings

- Where History comes Alive -

Our cottage for the next four days is located in the countryside. It is beautifully decorated and feels very cosy. Our host, Michaela, also has a fantastic garden that she opens to the public once a year.

Stirling

Often called the “Gateway to the Highlands,” the city of Stirling is steeped in Scottish history and charm. Once a strategic stronghold between the Lowlands and Highlands, Stirling played a central role in the Wars of Independence, with heroes like William Wallace and Robert the Bruce leaving their mark on the region.

Stirling Castle is one of Scotland’s most important and visually striking strongholds. Once the residence of Scottish kings and queens, including Mary, Queen of Scots, the castle has witnessed centuries of royal drama, sieges, and battles — most notably during the Wars of Scottish Independence.

Standing proudly atop Abbey Craig, the William Wallace Monument is a striking 67-meter tower dedicated to Scotland’s legendary freedom fighter, Sir William Wallace. Built in the 19th century, it marks the area where Wallace is believed to have watched the English army before his victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297. The monument looks as if it has been taken straight from Tolkien's novel The Fellowship of the Ring, and I expect Sauron to appear at any moment.

Inside, we climb the 246 steps to the top for panoramic views of the Highlands and Lowlands. Along the way, exhibition rooms tell the story of Wallace’s life, legacy, and Scotland’s fight for independence — including the display of his famous broadsword.

Doune Castle

Doune Castle is a remarkably well-preserved 14th-century stronghold that once served as a royal residence and hunting lodge for Scottish kings. Its towering gatehouse, great hall, and atmospheric courtyard offer a vivid glimpse into medieval life.

But Doune Castle is also famous far beyond its stone walls — it’s a film and TV icon. Fans will recognize it as Castle Leoch in Outlander, Winterfell in the Game of Thrones pilot, and perhaps most memorably, as nearly every castle in Monty Python and the Holy Grail.

Glasgow

The plan for the day is straightforward: Glasgow.

Once the industrial powerhouse of Scotland, Glasgow was renowned for its shipbuilding and heavy industry, as well as its strong working-class identity. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the city was full of bustling factories and soot-covered streets, and had a strong sense of community rooted in hard labour and resilience. Today, however, Glasgow has transformed into a modern cultural hub. While its industrial past is still visible in its architecture and heritage, the city now thrives on creativity, education, and innovation. Museums, music, technology and a vibrant food scene have replaced smoke and steel.

Although the weather forecast is good, it is cold, windy and cloudy when we arrive. We park close to the city centre at the Duke Street Park House car park, which offers a day rate of £6. A steal for Glasgow!

Our first stop is the Glasgow Necropolis, a historic Victorian cemetery located on a hill to the east of Glasgow Cathedral. Opened in 1833, it is the final resting place of around 50,000 people, including many prominent Glaswegians. The site features grand monuments, intricate sculptures and winding paths that reflect the city’s 19th century wealth. It also offers great panoramic views. After walking around for about an hour, the sun suddenly comes out and it finally gets warmer.

Next we have a look at the impressive Glasgow Cathetral one of Scotland’s most impressive medieval buildings and the oldest cathedral on the Scottish mainland. Built in the 12th century, it stands on the site where St. Mungo, Glasgow’s patron saint, is believed to be buried. The cathedral is a rare example of a Gothic church that survived the Reformation mostly intact.

Glasgow is also famous for its murals, of which there are plenty. Exploring the city while on the hunt for the next mural is great fun. Some are quite impressive; others are less so. This site provides an overview of the locations and is a great guide. The city centre is a mixed bag: we see streets with rundown buildings and many closed shops, but also some nice areas, such as Buchanan Street, the main shopping area.

After a long, rather boring walk, we take a brief lunch break at the fabulous Moroccan café Finnieston Fez before reaching the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. It's a beautiful historic building, and the inside offers a bit of… well, what exactly? 'A bit of everything' probably describes it best. It's a wild mix and reminds me of a museum version of TikTok. It's curious and very interesting and one of the most visited museums in UK outside London.

Next to it is the Glasgow University. Founded in 1451, it is one of the world's oldest and most prestigious universities and is renowned for its stunning Gothic architecture. In the courtyard, you almost feel as if Harry Potter could pass by at any moment. Graduates include Lord Kelvin (yes, the temperature scale), economist Adam Smith, and James Watt, pioneer of the steam engine.

The Botanical Garden is not far away and boasts some beautiful Victorian-style glasshouses. It's also a great place to relax on the green lawn or on one of the many park benches.

We take the subway back to the city centre, then walk the rest of the way to the car. All in all, it was a nice day, although I wouldn't say that Glasgow is a must-do when visiting Scotland.

Devils Pulpit

When we set off in the early morning, it's foggy. It's too early for the sun to come out. Our plan is to visit Loch Lomond, but we decide to start with the Devil's Pulpit, an extremely scenic little gorge with several small waterfalls and lush green walls. The descent to this wonderland is short but steep. To reach the best section with the waterfalls, I have to take off my shoes and wade through the cold water. But it’s worth it!

By the time we reach back to the car park, the weather has cleared, just in time for Loch Lomond.

Loch Lomond

Loch Lomond sits on the Highland Boundary Fault, where the Lowlands meet the Highlands - creating dramatic scenery and diverse ecosystems. I's the largest freshwater lake in Scotland and a very popular place. We plan to hike up the famous Conic Hill, which takes about two hours there and back, and offers mesmerising views. However, it feels too warm at lunchtime, so we decide to take a boat tour instead and postpone the hike until the late afternoon.

The boat tour is OK, but nothing special, I have to admit. As it's still too hot for climbing, we have a long rest on the beach with lots of sunscreen. I can’t believe that this is Scotland!

Haggis

Haggis is Scotland’s national dish — a savory and hearty pudding traditionally made from sheep’s offal (heart, liver, and lungs), mixed with onions, oatmeal, suet, spices, and stock, all encased in a sheep’s stomach (or casing). Despite its humble ingredients, it’s rich in flavor and history. Often served with "neeps and tatties" (turnips and potatoes), It’s a beloved symbol of Scottish culture and cuisine — and much tastier than its reputation suggests, which I can only agree on. I tried it on toast and although I was sceptical at first it tasted much better than expected.

Strengthened by the haggis, we finally start the climb at around 17:00. Most of the way are stone steps, going continually uphill for about 50 minutes until we reach the windy top, which has a beautiful aerial view.

On the way to the Isle of Mull

We're leaving early today as it's a long drive to the Isle of Mull. We're taking a longer route, which includes the scenic Glen Coe and a detour to Glen Etive, where a famous scene from the James Bond movie Skyfall was shot. When we arrive in the area after about an hour and a half's driving, the morning clouds have just started to disappear. The scenery is dramatic, but shortly afterwards, the sky becomes cloudless blue. It's strange; the nice weather somehow takes away the dramatic atmosphere, turning it into a lovely, albeit rather boring, scenery.

On the way to Oban, we stop at Castle Stalker, which is beautifully situated on a small island. Unfortunately, parking turns out to be extremely difficult, so we finally stop in a no-parking zone. Melanie waits in the car while I use the drone to get some good shots of the castle.

In Oban, we stock up at Aldi, which is significantly cheaper than the large Tesco and Co-op stores. Oban is a nice little town. Unfortunately, we have limited time to explore the city as we have a ferry to Mull booked for today. We set off at 18:20 sharp, and the whole process is smooth and efficient.

Isle of Mull

- Puffins, Castles, and Sea Mist -

The soft afternoon light makes for nice views from the ferry…

…and coastal scenery on Mull.

After another 30-minute drive on Mull, we reach our cottage in Tobermory, the main village on the island. The promenade with its colourful houses is extremely scenic.

In the evening, we visit our first pub, the Mishnish, which is rather traditional. Locals and tourists mingle here, having a drink or playing billiards.

Day trip to Lunga and Staffa

We added the Isle of Mull to our itinerary for two reasons: to take a boat tour to see the puffins on Lunga and to visit the stunning basalt pillars of Staffa. I booked with Staffa Tours, with the boat leaving Tobermory at 09:45 and returning at 16:00. There are around 90 other people on the boat with us. The weather is fabulous and the sea is calm.

Between April and August, Lunga becomes one of the best places in Scotland to observe puffins up close. These endearing birds, with their clown-like beaks and waddling walk, return here every year to nest in burrows along the cliffs and grassy slopes. Surprisingly unafraid of humans, puffins on Lunga often allow visitors to approach within just a few feet — perfect for photography and quiet observation. We have two and a half hours to explore Lunga, which is plenty of time.

The puffins look extremely cute and are not at all shy. There are also many other birds on the island, including a large colony of guillemots which comes with a strong smell despite the sea breeze. But it's not just about the birds; the scenery is gorgeous, too.

We don't go ashore on Staffa Island. The basalt formation, created by volcanic activity 60 million years ago, is best viewed from the boat anyway. It is absolutely stunning and is probably best compared with the famous Giant's Causeway in Ireland. All in all, it's a great day tour and highly recommended during puffin season.

Tobermory

Back in Tobermory, we walk along the colourful promenade. The afternoon sun and temperature are just perfect. I enjoy the harbour view with some authentic fish and chips. I love the place.

A trip around Mull

Today, we set off early on a road trip around the island. The island is bigger than expected, and the many single-track roads are time-consuming. We first stop at Calgary Beach to enjoy the white sand and sun. We even see a woman swimming in the sea. I honestly was not expecting this in Scotland.

Not far away is the Kilninian Beach, a black sand beach — well, probably more grey than black. Only one other family is here beside us, enjoying a swim and a picnic. The black sand comes from the surrounding black rocks. The green grass is roamed by sheep and cute lambs. What an idyllic place!

Our next stop is an extremely scenic Eas Fors Waterfall, which cascades in three steps into the sea. Each step looks and feels different, and would make a great picnic spot in its own right.

Duart Castle, right on the north-eastern corner, is definitely worth a stop. Perched dramatically on a cliff top overlooking the Sound of Mull, it is the ancestral home of Clan Maclean. The castle dates back to the 13th century.

Over the centuries, it played a key role in clan battles and conflicts with both the English and rival Scottish clans. It fell into ruin in the 18th century, but was restored in 1911 by Sir Fitzroy Maclean. Today, the castle is open to the public as a museum. The current clan chief still lives in the castle, and, despite being in his late eighties, he enjoys talking to visitors about its history.

We drive all the way to Fionnphort, the south-western tip of Mull, enjoying the scenery along the way. From here, a ferry goes to nearby Iona Island, but unfortunately it's too late for us to catch one. We walk around a little, then make our long way back, this time taking the extremely scenic route via Balmeanach. This seems to be a popular area for wild camping, as we see dozens of campers on the way. It's no wonder — the area is breathtaking, especially in the afternoon light, and looks like the perfect advertisement for van life. After a long but beautiful day, we arrive back in Tobermory.

Ferry to the Adnamurchan Peninsula

After spending three nights on beautiful Mull, it's time to move on. In the morning we take the first ferry from Tobermory to Kilchoan at 7:30.

Ardnamurchan Peninsula

- On the Wild Side -

The Ardnamurchan peninsula, known as the westernmost point of mainland Britain, offers dramatic coastal views, white sandy beaches, ancient woodlands and winding single-track roads that lead through some of the country’s most unspoilt landscapes.

On the way to the Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, we are greeted by the local cows, each of which seems to have its own distinct personality.

The lighthouse is an excellent vantage point, particularly for drone photography.

Next is the stunningly beautiful Sanna Beach. Honestly, I didn't expect to find beaches like this in Scotland. The combination of yellow, grass-covered dunes like those on the famous German island of Sylt; emerald-green water like that found in the South Seas; white, powdery sand like that found on the best Caribbean beaches; and lush, green hills like those found in Ireland makes it a unique place and one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen.

Following the southern coast to the Ariundle Nature Reserve, we drive along long single-track roads running next to the sea or through lush forests dotted with colourful rhododendrons. There, we go on a 1.5-hour hike alongside a river, unfortunately in the open sun, and then back through a beautiful oak forest. It’s not a bad hike, but I'm not sure if it was worth the one-hour detour we had to take.

We then cross the peninsula towards the north coast, stopping briefly at Tioram Castle. The castle is a ruin and not open to the public, but I can take some really nice top-down shots of the castle ruins with the drone.

Fort Williams - Where Ben Nevis

meets the Hogwarts Express

The area is famous among Potter fans. This is not only because of Dumbledore's grave (a small, tree-covered island in a lake), but also because of the famous, scenic Glenfinnan Viaduct, which is crossed by the Hogwarts Express in three Potter films, as well as several others. As we are tired after a long day of driving, we decide to postpone visiting the viaduct until the day after tomorrow, when we will pass it again on our way to Mallaig to catch the ferry to the Isle of Skye.

Soon after, we reach Fort William, where we will stay for two nights. We don't really get warm to the city. It's just a touristy place without any particular charm.

Scottish kilt

The Scottish kilt is more than just a piece of clothing — it’s a proud symbol of heritage, identity, and Highland tradition. Originating in the 16th century as the feileadh mòr (great kilt), it began as a full-length wool garment worn by Highlanders for warmth and freedom of movement. Over time, it evolved into the tailored, knee-length kilt we know today.

Each kilt is traditionally made from wool tartan, with colors and patterns (called setts) representing clans, families, or regions. While kilts were once banned after the 1746 Jacobite uprising, they returned to prominence in the 19th century — especially after King George IV’s royal visit to Edinburgh in 1822, when he famously wore one in public.

Today, the kilt is proudly worn at weddings, Highland games, festivals, and formal events. Whether paired with a sporran and jacket or worn casually, the Scottish kilt remains a timeless and powerful emblem of Scotland’s spirit and culture.

Channel hike

As I’m not courageous enough to climb Ben Nevis – the highest mountain in the UK at 1,344 metres – we decide on a much easier, shaded two-hour hike along the channel between Loch Lochy and Loch Oich instead. We follow the idyllic path through a fascinating forest and across open land, which is full of yellow broom and fresh green ferns.

On the way back, we follow the bottom edge of a steep hill, which is quite a contrast with boggy sections and plenty of trees to climb over. All in all, it was a great walk, but I would avoid it if it had rained recently. The boggy sections would not be fun at all.

Hike to Steall Falls

In the late afternoon, we drive into the Ben Nevis Valley for another hike to the large Steall Falls. The valley is bathed in beautiful light at this time of day, and the temperature is perfect for the enjoyable 1.5-hour walk.

Glenfinnan Viaduct

We start our day with a visit to the Glenfinnan Viaduct on the way to the Isle of Skye. This is an extremely popular spot, and the large car parks fill up quickly when the famous 'Hogwarts Express' steam train crosses the viaduct on its journey from Fort William to Mallaig. Most people go straight to the viewpoints, which takes 10–15 minutes. As we have time until the first crossing at 10:45, we combine this with a longer hike, which offers more viewpoints.

Surprisingly, we are mostly alone on the path until we reach the viaduct viewpoint from 'behind', where hundreds of people are already waiting. There is a big disappointment among the audience when the train finally shows up with only a diesel engine. I'm not sure what happened, but never mind. It's still a nice scene.

On the way to Skye

On the way to Maillag, we take the more scenic coastal road, which passes some beautiful beaches. Maillag is a small, unappealing fishing village and a ferry hub to the Isle of Skye. The crossing takes about 45 minutes.

Isle of Skye - Fairy Pools and

Highland Souls

On our way to our accommodation in Portree on Skye, we catch a glimpse of the beautiful landscape, which is rougher and more dramatic than the areas we have visited so far in Scotland. It reminds me a little on Island.

We stop briefly at the fairly new Broadford Gin Distillery. The owners are enthusiastic experimenters who have created a signature gin, called 57° Skye, that won a gold medal at a global competition. Everything is on a very small scale at the moment, with a purely focused approach to quality, but they have big plans for the future. You can read more about their story here. Of course, we take the opportunity to stock up.

For the next four nights, we are staying in a newly built house close to Portree, the main town on Skye. We love our modern, cosy room with a direct view of a sheep pasture. As recommended by our hosts, we enjoy a good pizza at Gasta Port Right.

Hike to the Old Man of Storr

The next morning we set off early for one of Skye's major highlights. The iconic rock formation known as the Old Man of Storr is featured in many publications about Skye.

Many people only do the hike to the viewpoint, which takes about two hours there and back, but we have planned a longer hike, going all the way up to the mountaintop. The sky is cloudless and the morning air is crisp. We are quickly surrounded by tiny flies, about 2 mm long, and I fear that we will finally have to deal with the most dreaded creatures in Scotland: the midges. The pest and terror of the Highlands. Surprisingly, they are not biting, but they are extremely annoying. Many people we see have already put on their midge nets, including Mel. Unfortunately, the nets are so fine that they hinder the view.

Midges

Scottish midges are tiny, flying insects known for their big annoyance factor. Most common in the Scottish Highlands and west coast during the warmer months (typically May to September), these biting midges are especially active at dawn and dusk and in damp, still conditions.

Although each midge is barely visible, they travel in huge swarms and can make outdoor activities like hiking or camping quite uncomfortable. Only female midges bite, needing blood to produce eggs. Their bites can be itchy but are generally harmless.

Locals and travelers fight back with strong insect repellents, head nets, or by simply planning outdoor adventures when there's a breeze — midges can’t fly well in wind.

Despite their small size, Scottish midges are a legendary part of any Highland summer — both feared and begrudgingly respected by those who know the wild beauty of Scotland.

After a while, the midges seem to have gone. The viewpoint and the way to the top are both stunning, with breathtaking views over the island. The way down, however, is less appealing, with one very steep and rocky section. It's quite a challenge for the knees. The hike takes us about 4.5 hours, including some rest stops to enjoy the many views one the way.

Next, we visit a couple of viewpoints, but as it is midday, the light is very harsh. Not the best time for photos. After lunch, we visit Portree, which is too busy with tourists for my liking.

Neist Point

In the afternoon, I drive all the way to Neist Point, a popular sunset spot. Melanie is too tired so she stays home. The drive takes about an hour and a half on winding roads, but the scenery is worth it. Many campers also stay overnight here due to the fantastic view. The lighthouse, situated on a rocky peninsula, looks spectacular. Unfortunately, I have a long drive back, so I don't wait for the sunset, which is at around 22:00 today. The drive through the scenic landscape bathed in the afternoon light is very enjoyable.

Fairy Pools

Today, we want to explore the western region of Skye. First, we drive to another popular hiking area called the Fairy Pools. A well-maintained path runs alongside a river, which is dotted with small waterfalls, with mountains looming in the background. Many people only follow the river and then turn around, but we decide to follow a longer circular route recommended in our hiking guide. After three and a half hours, including breaks, we return to the car. Overall, it was a nice hike and we even saw some deer nearby. However, the hike pales in comparison to the Storr hike we completed yesterday.

Talisker

Next, we stop at the popular Talisker Distillery, which is located right next to the sea. The visitor centre looks quite impressive. They offer different tours, but they had all been booked up several days ago when I looked. The shop sells not only Talisker, but also many other Scottish whisky brands. I first wondered if they were somehow associated, then asked ChatGPT to list the owners of all Scottish distilleries. I was surprised to find that almost all distilleries are owned by large spirits companies today, with Diageo being the biggest by far, owning 28 distilleries, including Talisker. There are hardly any independent distilleries left.

Talisker Bay is a 20-minute drive and a 20-minute walk away. It's a beautiful beach, bordered on either side by huge cliffs. We even see two ladies swimming. Truly courageous in the icy waters.

The Quiraing

We set off early for another of the island's top hiking destinations, located just 30 minutes from Portree. The Quiraing is a dramatic landslip located on the Trotternish Ridge in the north-east of the island. It is one of the most iconic landscapes in the Highlands and is known for its surreal terrain, which features towering cliffs, hidden plateaus, jagged rock formations and green valleys. The name 'Quiraing' comes from Old Norse and means 'Round Fold' — a reference to a bowl-shaped valley which, according to legend, was used to hide livestock from Viking raiders. The Quiraing Loop Walk (about 6.5 km) offers breathtaking views from the outset. It's clearly my favourite hike on the island!

The area also seems to be popular for wedding shoots.

After a lunch break at the Hungry Gull, we follow the road around the north-western tip until we reach Portree again. We spend the rest of the day being lazy.

NC500 - The Wild North

NC500

The North Coast 500 (NC500) is a spectacular scenic driving route that loops around the northern tip of Scotland, covering approximately 500 miles (805 km). Starting and ending in the Highland capital Inverness, the route takes travelers through some of the most dramatic and remote landscapes in the UK.

Along the NC500, you'll pass rugged coastlines, white sandy beaches, ancient castles, and picturesque villages. Highlights include Bealach na Bà, a steep and winding mountain pass in Applecross, the turquoise waters of Achmelvich Beach, and historic sites like Dunrobin Castle and John o’Groats.

Ideal for road trippers, cyclists, and adventurers, the NC500 offers a unique mix of wild nature, Gaelic culture, and Highland hospitality. Whether you're camping under the stars or staying in cozy inns, it’s a journey that showcases the raw beauty and charm of the Scottish Highlands.

On the way to Gairloch

We've got a long driving day ahead of us today and therefore start early. Heading out of Skye, we stop at Eilean Donan Castle and the charming village of Plockton before hitting the road to Applecross via the alpine-like Bealach na Pa Pass. Clearly signed as not suitable for motorhomes, some fellows must have suffered from a blurred vision today, making some passing areas a rather tight experience.

At the Applecross Inn Side Out, I get some amazing fish and chips with monkfish, also known as "the lobster for the poor". For 20 GBP, this is definitely not an option for the poor.

The scenery definitely becomes more rough and alpine here in the north. We stop at a few viewpoints on the way to Gairloch today. It's a hit with campers and bikers too. Since 2015, the NC500 has been promoted as the Scottish Route 66, promising an epic road trip. It was obviously a very successful campaign. Nick, our host today, says that his two rooms are fully booked until September/October.

We are having dinner at the Black Pearl, a Creole restaurant that we wouldn't have expected to find in such a place. I have jerk chicken and Mel has a chickpea curry. The food is quite tasty, no wonder that the place is so busy.

The next morning, we have a look at the Gairloch Museum to learn more about the local history. The museum is in an old nuclear bunker from the Cold War. It's surprisingly entertaining.

On the way to Ullapool

On our way to Ullapool, we stop at different viewpoints along the way.

At the Falls of Measach, we experience again some midges, but fortunately only in few areas.

Ullapool is a pretty fishing village on the northwest coast of the Scottish Highlands. It is on the shores of Loch Broom. It was founded in 1788 as a herring port, and is now a popular stop for travellers exploring the North Coast 500 or heading to the Outer Hebrides. Ferries regularly depart for Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis.

On the way to Beauly

The direct route to Beauly, where we are going today, would only take about one hour. Instead, we decide to take a much longer route. We drive for about four hours along small roads that run along the northwestern coast. These roads are mostly single lanes. The scenery here is really beautiful, even though it's rainy and windy. Achmelvich Bay is especially nice, but it is too windy today to enjoy for a longer time.

The landscape of Assynt is shaped by glaciers from the Ice Age and is dotted with countless small lakes. It's great fun to drive along the winding roads in this amazing landscape. At Loch Leitir Easaidh, we go on a short hike around some smaller lakes.

Next, we stop at Ardvreck Castle, which is on the shores of Loch Assynt. The ruin was built in the 16th century by the MacLeod clan and has a dramatic history marked by betrayal, battles and ghostly legends. Its lonely shape can be seen against the backdrop of rugged mountains and grey skies, which makes it a popular place for photographers and history lovers. Today, it's less lonely. A big tourist bus arrives with us, and we share the place with lots of other people.

In contrary the Loch Stack is much less busy and just as scenic. We decide that this is a perfect place for a picnic, but we stay in the car because it's still too cold and windy outside.

Unfortunately we don't have time to follow the whole NC500 around the northern tip, so we take a shortcut through the peninsula from west to east. As we head towards the east coast, the scenery becomes less rough and wild. The sky also clears up and the sun comes out sometimes.

At the east coast we visit Dunrobin Castle, a real-life fairytale castle. It has turrets, manicured gardens and stunning sea views. It's like a mix of Disney and Downton Abbey. It's one of Scotland's oldest castles, and people have been living there since the early 13th century. It was originally built as a stronghold, and then it became the home of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland. But the castle really changed in the 1800s, when it was completely renovated by Sir Charles Barry — the same man who designed the UK Parliament in London.

Sadly, the Glenmorangie Distillery is closed today, so we can only have a quick look around.

Around Loch Ness

- Searching for Nessie -

Our apartment for the next two days is just 10 minutes outside of Beauly. The little hut is super cosy and has a great view of a wheat field.

Urquhart Castle

Perched dramatically on the shores of Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle is one of Scotland’s most iconic and picturesque ruins. Once one of the country’s largest castles, it played a key role in the Wars of Scottish Independence and changed hands many times between the Scots and English. Today, the castle offers visitors a glimpse into medieval life, with crumbling towers, a great hall, and sweeping views over the mysterious loch—famously home to the legend of Nessie, the Loch Ness Monster. But without any sign of Nessie today, the 227-metre-deep, dark lake looks rather boring, to be honest. The weather changes quickly. The wind blows through the ruins and it is freezing. Maybe the reason why I'm not getting warm with the place. The other reason could be the many cruise ship tourists that storm the castle. It's the busiest place we have been so far.

Glen Affric

Only 30 minutes away is Glen Affric, a beautiful valley where we want to go on some shorter hikes. On the way to Dog Falls, it starts raining again, so we decide to skip the other short hikes and drive home to our cosy hut. Once we reach the hut, the sun comes out again. I wonder if this is crazy weather or just the normal Scottish weather.

Beauly

In the evening, we relax and later take a short look at Beauly itself. The old Priory is especially impressive.

Pitchlochry - Where Highland

Beauty Meets Victorian Elegance

Blair Castle

Standing proudly against the backdrop of the Grampian Mountains, Blair Castle is one of Scotland’s most striking and historic stately homes. This grand white castle has witnessed over 750 years of Scottish history, from clan battles to royal visits. Inside, we find lavish rooms, period furniture, and a fascinating collection of weapons, artwork, and hunting trophies. The castle was home to the Dukes of Atholl and remains unique as the only place in Europe with its own private army, the Atholl Highlanders.

I am particularly impressed by the bagpipe player, who shows off his skills for 15 minutes every hour.

The Scottish Bagpipe - Heartbeat of the Highlands

The Great Highland Bagpipe is one of Scotland’s most iconic cultural symbols — a powerful instrument whose sound instantly evokes images of misty glens, ancient battles, and proud traditions.

A Brief History

Bagpipes have ancient roots and variations exist around the world, but the Scottish version became prominent in the 16th century, especially in the Highlands. Once used as a means of communication in battle, the bagpipe was later embraced by Scottish clans, the military, and eventually national ceremonies. During the Jacobite risings, it was even classified as a weapon of war.

How It's Played

The bagpipe consists of a bag (usually made from synthetic or animal skin), a chanter for melody, and drones that provide a constant harmonic background. The player blows air through a blowpipe into the bag, which they squeeze under their arm to push air through the reeds. This continuous airflow creates the rich, layered sound that makes the bagpipe so distinctive.

Today, bagpipes are heard across Scotland — from Highland games to street performances and formal ceremonies. Whether it’s a lone piper playing atop a castle hill or a full pipe band in a parade, the bagpipe remains the soulful soundtrack of Scotland.

There is a lot to see inside the castle.

Pitlochry

Despite Scotland's many distilleries, it's surprisingly difficult to organise a whisky tasting, especially at short notice. Most of the distilleries I contacted were fully booked several days in advance. I'm not usually a fan of whisky, but I strongly believe that a tasting is an essential part of any trip to Scotland. So I was happy to finally secure two places at the Blair Atholl Distillery, one of Scotland's oldest and most active whisky producers, founded in 1798. I have to admit that the tour itself was quite interesting, although even after the tasting, I'm still not a fan of whisky.

Scottish Whisky - From Grain to Glass

Scottish whisky, or Scotch, is made through a time-honored process that combines simple ingredients — malted barley, water, and yeast — with skill and patience.

Malting: Barley is soaked in water and allowed to germinate, then dried in a kiln (sometimes over peat smoke for a smoky flavor).
Mashing: The dried malt is ground into grist and mixed with hot water to extract sugars, creating a sweet liquid called wort.
Fermentation: The wort is cooled and yeast is added. The yeast ferments the sugars into alcohol, producing a beer-like liquid known as wash.
Distillation: The wash is distilled (usually twice in copper stills) to increase the alcohol content and purify the spirit. This results in a clear liquid called new-make spirit.
Maturation: The spirit is aged for at least three years (often much longer) in oak casks, which give Scotch its flavor, color, and character.
Bottling: After aging, the whisky is diluted to drinking strength, sometimes blended, and finally bottled.

Scotch whisky must be made in Scotland and follow strict regulations to earn its name

Today is my birthday, so we are enjoying a fabulous dinner at the Fern Cottage Restaurant, a recommendation from our hosts at the Carra Beag Guesthouse. The guesthouse, is the only place on our trip where we get a traditional hearty Scottish breakfast, of course including haggis.

In the morning we have a look at the Pitlochry dam. Built in the 1950s as part of Scotland’s ambitious hydroelectric scheme, the dam still generates clean energy today — powering thousands of homes. One of its most unique features is the salmon ladder, a clever series of water-filled steps that help Atlantic salmon migrate upstream to spawn. A camera counts the number of salmon, about 4000 annually.

On the way to Edinburgh

About an hour further on, we stop at Loch Leven and take a boat to Loch Leven Castle, which is located on a small island. Dating back to the 13th century, the castle is most famous for the period in 1567 when Mary, Queen of Scots, was imprisoned there after being forced to abdicate the throne in favour of her infant son, James VI. She was held for nearly a year and suffered a miscarriage while in captivity. On 2 May 1568, she escaped with the help of the young George Douglas and her loyal supporters.

Once again, the weather changes every five minutes, going from sunshine to heavy rain and back again.

After visiting the castle, we drive to Rosslyn Chapel, which is located south of Edinburgh. The chapel is world-famous due to its mysterious symbolism, architectural beauty and connections to legends and conspiracy theories, with some even considering it to be the hiding place of the Holy Grail. It also plays a part in Dan Brown's The Da Vinci Code. Unfortunately, photography is not permitted inside, but the carvings are exceptional.

Edinburgh - City of Legends

After checking in to our private homestay, it's time to say goodbye to our car. The handover is quick and efficient, so I would highly recommend Enterprise in Edinburgh.

The tram takes us directly to the city centre, where we take a quick look around. By the way, similar to London, Edinburgh has a tap system. Just use a credit card to tap in and out of the tram. On buses, you only need to tap in at the driver. The system automatically calculates the correct fare, limiting costs to a day pass if you take several journeys. The important thing is to use the same credit card for all journeys, and each person needs their own card. It's so simple — I wish we had that system in Frankfurt!

Edinburgh, is a city layered with history — built on ancient volcanoes, shaped by kings and poets, and crowned by a mighty castle. Its story stretches back nearly 1,000 years, and every cobbled street seems to whisper tales from the past,….and of course Harry Potter.

The city’s heart, Edinburgh Castle, sits atop Castle Rock, a volcanic outcrop that’s been a fortress since at least the 12th century. It became a royal residence and was the seat of Scotland’s monarchs for centuries — and a flashpoint in wars with England being attacks more than 20 times. The castle today is a tourist magnet and completely booked out for the day when we arrive at opening time 9:30. Fortunately we've booked three weeks in advance. It's crazy how fast the huge castle fills up with people.

There is a hefty breeze today and soon after opening time, they start to close some lanes for the public. Two hours later they decide to close and evacuate the castle completely. Everyone has to leave, fortunately for us, only after we have seen all the relevant spots, including the Scottish Crown Jewels. Nevertheless, although really interesting, Stirling Castle somehow impressed me more, overall.

In medieval times, the city grew along the Royal Mile, a spine of stone connecting the castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Edinburgh soon earned the nickname “Auld Reekie” (Old Smoky) for the haze of coal smoke that hung over its tightly packed buildings. Of course the smoke is long gone and the Royal Mile is nowadays a tourist attraction.

During the 18th century, Edinburgh transformed. The Enlightenment brought philosophers, scientists, and writers who turned the city into a hub of intellectual energy. This era gave rise to the elegant Georgian New Town, contrasting the dark, dramatic charm of the Old Town.

The Scott Monument to memorise the beloved Scottish poet Sir Walther Scott is a famous landmark at the border of the old and new town.

The best way to learn more about Edinburgh is by joining a free guided tour. There are many options. I don't remember all the stories Graeme our guide told us, but I definitely remember three of them.

John Knox, the famous Scottish reformer and former minister of St. Gilles Cathedral, was buried right behind the cathedral in 1572. The graveyard is now a car park used by the cathedral staff. The exact place of his grave is indicated by a plate right on parking lot 23, reserved for the current minister of the cathedral. This means he drives over the burial site of his famous predecessor every day.
The medieval Golden Mile was far less pleasant than today, especially the narrow lanes. To be precise, the stench was overwhelming. There was no sewage system in operation and the area was densely populated. People just threw excrement and rubbish out of the windows, and the occasional rain more or less washed it down into the valley that today separates the old and new town. The water in the valley was the sole water source for the people,...... yuck. As the lanes were heavily used by people, a law was introduced that forbade emptying all excrement before 10 pm, which, intentionally or not, coincided with the official pub closing time. For the drunken lads, leaving the pubs, this often came as an unpleasant surprise, as reflected in the popular term 'shit-faced drunk'.
J.K. Rowling wrote one of her Harry Potter novels in a rather simple room at the Balmoral Hotel, which can now be booked for an eye-watering £2,500 a night. Only for the real and rich Potter fans!

Edinburgh is well known for Harry Potter. Some scenes were filmed in the city, and it also provided inspiration for J.K. Rowling. Greyfriars Cemetery is a must-visit spot for all Potter fans. It's where some of the famous Potter characters name originate, like John Riddell, McGonagal, Serious Black and more. But to be honest, it's also a really atmospheric place, which is definitely worth a visit.

A trip to Edinburgh is not complete without a pub visit. There are plenty of popular ones in the more touristic areas. We chose the Oxford bar for a more authentic experience, based on a recommendation from a friend who had stayed many times in Edinburgh. We have a lovely experience and nice chats with the barkeeper. It's the perfect spot to observe the local pub scene. They even remember our friend and show a picture of him, although it was many years ago. He has certainly left a lasting impression.

The Royal Museum is a worthwhile visit, especially....

...as the roof terrace from the museum offers some spectacular views over the city.

The walk from Stockbridge Market along the Water of Leith to Dean Village is really nice. Once a thriving milling village, Dean Village was known for its water-powered grain mills, some of which still stand today with carved stone plaques and dates faded by centuries. Dean Village isn’t filled with shops or cafés — and that’s what makes it special. It’s a place to breathe, wander, and imagine the lives once lived along the riverbanks.

Countless gift shops in Edinburgh are just waiting for our money. But Whisky prices are much higher compared to Germany due to high taxes on alcohol and I'm not into Whisky anyway. Mel tries to persuade me to buy a kilt but I don't go for it. There are plenty of nice wool scarves, but it would be just another one in my overstuffed drawer. At the end we buy some shortbread, tea and haggis.

Scottish Shortbread

Scottish shortbread is a beloved traditional biscuit made from just three simple ingredients: flour, butter, and sugar. Its rich, crumbly texture and buttery flavor have made it a staple of Scottish hospitality for centuries. Originating in medieval times and perfected during the reign of Mary, Queen of Scots, shortbread is often shaped into fingers, rounds, or festive petticoat tails.

Whether enjoyed with a cup of tea, gifted in tartan tins, or baked fresh for Hogmanay (Scottish New Year), shortbread is more than a sweet treat — it’s a tasty symbol of Scottish warmth and tradition.

Personally, I'm not the biggest fan, but it goes quite well with a cup of tea.

Edinburgh offers plenty of opportunities for street photography

Rising just east of Princes Street, Calton Hill offers one of the best panoramic views of Edinburgh — from the historic Old Town and Castle to the modern cityscape and distant Firth of Forth.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to several striking monuments, including the National Monument, inspired by the Parthenon in Athens, the Nelson Monument, and the Dugald Stewart Monument, which often appears in postcards and Instagram shots of the city.

The Final - Trip Summary

What I liked most about Scotland was the great way to explore the country on some incredible scenic roads by car. The Western Highlands and the Isle of Skye are especially spectacular. We were pretty lucky with the weather, too, with two out of three weeks of full sunshine, which is pretty rare. I was happy with the good weather, but the most striking and dramatic scenery was in the few days when there were low-hanging clouds and wind, which brought constant changes between rain and sun rays poking through the clouds within minutes.

The locals were always friendly and helpful. Unfortunately there weren’t opportunities for any deeper discussions this time. We only met most of our hosts for a few minutes, if at all. Consequently, we were unable to gauge current attitudes towards independence. What a pity.

If there's any downside, it's probably the general price level, especially accommodation. The long daylight means we spend most of the time outside. And just for a place for sleeping, the prices were a bit hefty. Also, food and drink prices in restaurants and pubs are a lot higher than in Germany.

After the trip I believe the best way to explore Scotland is with a small camper, as there are so many great places to stay overnight in the wild. Here, van life isn't just a marketing slogan.

Obviously, this isn't exactly a well-kept secret, and I'd avoid travelling in July and August, even with a camper. The traffic during the peak season, together with the many single-lane roads, might not be as enjoyable during this period. Taking into account the weather, the number of tourists and the chances of midges, I think April and May are the best months to go.

So, would I go again: Absolutely, but next time with a camper and maybe including the Outer Hebrides and or Orkney Islands.

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