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Saudi Arabia - Winds of Change

A 17 days Roadtrip in Nov. 2024

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

August 15^th, 2025

MOTIVATION - WHY TO GO?

Saudi Arabia is undergoing one of the most ambitious transformations in its history through Vision 2030, a national plan launched in 2016 to diversify the economy beyond oil and open up society to new opportunities. Led by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, the initiative focuses on tourism, innovation, culture, and empowering women and youth. Reforms have included allowing women to drive, opening cinemas, hosting concerts, and investing in mega-projects like NEOM and AlUla. While the changes are top-down and sometimes controversial, they are reshaping daily life and the country’s global image. For visitors and observers alike, Saudi Arabia today offers a rare glimpse into a nation balancing deep tradition with rapid modernization.

A very good reason for a visit, especially as the country only recently opened its doors to international tourism. That rare sense of being among the first to explore a place still largely untouched by mass tourism was too tempting to resist. I wanted to experience a place that had been a mystery to most travelers for so long — to see it with my own eyes, form my own impressions, and connect with locals eager to share their culture and stories with the outside world.

Best travel time

Saudi Arabia’s climate is shaped by its vast deserts and arid geography, which means hot summers, mild winters, and very little rainfall throughout the year. Summers (from May to September) can be extremely hot, especially in the interior and desert regions, with temperatures often soaring above 45°C (113°F). Cities like Riyadh and AlUla can be especially intense during this time. The best time to visit is between October and March, when the weather is much more pleasant. Daytime temperatures are warm but manageable, and evenings can even get a bit cool, especially in the desert. Rain is rare and usually brief, but if you’re heading to higher altitudes in the southwest (around Abha), you might catch a few showers in summer—unusual for the rest of the country. In short: if you’re planning a trip to Saudi Arabia, aim for the cooler months. You’ll enjoy the landscapes, history, and culture far more comfortably.

Facts and Figures

Size: 2,149,690 sq. km
Population: ~36 million (2024 estimate)
Capital and biggest city: Riyadh, with ~7.5 million inhabitants
Ethnic groups: ~90% Arab, ~10% Afro-Asian and others (incl. guest workers)
Languages: Arabic (official)
Currency: Saudi Riyal (SAR), 1 SAR ≈ 0.25 € (05/2024)
Fun Fact:
Saudi Arabia is home to the largest continuous sand desert in the world – the Rub’ al Khali, also called the “Empty Quarter.”
Saudi Arabia only opened for international tourism in 2019 — making it one of the world's newest destinations to explore!

Itinerary

Saudi Arabia is enormous — it's actually six times the size of Germany. Accordingly, there are vast distances to cover between popular destinations. Public transport, such as buses or trains, is not very well developed, so the only options for independent travellers are flights and rental cars. Fortunately, both can be easily booked via common booking platforms, as can hotels and flats. We used a combination of Booking.com and Airbnb.

The most interesting places tend to be along the Red Sea coast, such as Jeddah, or inland, such as AlUla. We also wanted to include Abha in the itinerary, an area where Saudi and Yemeni culture mixes. Here and further south, the landscape becomes quite mountainous towards the Yemeni border.

There are very few one-way car rental options in Abha, so we decided to drive almost 1000 km from Riyadh to Abha instead of flying, and then make our way along the coast towards the south to Tabuk, from where we planned to fly back.

Day 1: Flight Frankfurt - Riyadh
Day 2-4: Exploring Riyadh, including tour to Worlds End
Day 5: Long drive to Abha
Day 6-7: Exploring Abha and surroundings, including several heritage villages
Day 8: Drive to Al Bahad and visit of the heritage village of Thee Ain
Day 9-11: Drive to Jeddah und exploring of the city
Day 12: Drive to Medina and exploration of the city
Day 13-15: Drive to AlUla and exploration of the surroundings.
Day 16: Drive to Wadi Disha and exploration of the valley
Day 17: Drive to Tabuk and flight back to Germany

Flight to Riyadh

Our trip starts authentically with Saudia, the state airline. Before take-off, we are blessed with a prayer displayed on the in-seat entertainment screens. We should arrive in Riyadh in about six hours, Inshallah. It’s a dry flight, with no alcohol on board; otherwise, it’s as comfortable as possible in economy class.

Immigration is quick and efficient with our e-Visa. Melanie quickly collects her luggage from the luggage belt, but mine is nowhere to be seen. A quick look at Apple's "Find Me" app reveals that my luggage, which has an AirTag, is still in Frankfurt. Damn! The good thing is that I now have certainty about the situation. There's no point waiting any longer, so I go straight to the lost luggage desk and tell them what I've found out. They ask me to fill in a form on a website. I have to come back tomorrow to collect it when it arrives on the next flight.

Riyadh - From Souks to Skyscrapers

Finding the Budget - Rent A Car counter is not as straightforward as I thought; it's hidden in the car park and looks run down. The paperwork takes almost 40 minutes, but the staff are friendly.

Our Hyundai has Apple CarPlay and is brand new, the staff tell us proudly. Apple CarPlay is indeed helpful, as I can see Google Navigation on the bigger car screen. The roads are very wide with lots of lanes, so we have to be careful not to miss the right exits on the way to our Airbnb. Fortunately it's already late and the traffic is not too bad. It takes us 30 minutes to reach our Accommodation, which is really lovely.

In the morning, we visit the King Abdullah Financial District (KAFD), a modern development blending business, design and public spaces. The area is filled with striking buildings, quiet plazas and shaded walkways, making it a pleasant place to explore on foot, even in the heat. Although it is still under construction, parts of KAFD already feel lively, with cafés and green spaces offering a welcome change from the surrounding glass and steel. It’s an interesting place to observe the changes taking place in Riyadh.

My find of the day is the public roll-in/roll-out prayer rug. I haven't seen one of these before, but it will become a common sight on this trip.

Driving in Riyadh is not for the faint-hearted. Traffic is heavy due to the lack of a public transport system. A metro system is finally set to open in December 24, after several years of delays. They probably hired the project team from Berlin Airport. The roads are enormous, often with four to five lanes, and the traffic management feels kind of chaotic. Instead of junctions, there are often U-turns, after which several lines need to be crossed a few hundred metres later to make the final turn. This is no fun in heavy traffic or with Saudi kamikaze driving. Saudis drive like crazy, according to the motto 'the strongest will survive'. It's no wonder we rarely see cars without dents. It's common to see drivers giving lights and honking, pushing you from behind or crossing three lanes to brake suddenly in front of you in order to turn. Once, a fancy Land Rover almost pushed me off the road. When I gave way, it accelerated like crazy, just to jump over a speed bump Hollywood style, with all four wheels in the air.

Driving is much more relaxed outside the big cities, of course. We didn't try it, but we heard that Uber and Careem also operate in the cities. Longer walks are definitely not an option as there are few pavements.

There aren't many tourist attractions around Riyadh. The Edge of the World is one of them. It requires a 4WD and a good knowledge of the area as there are no signs to follow, so we decided to take a tour.

From the meeting point, it takes about two hours and 90 km of driving northwest of Riyadh to reach the dramatic cliffs of Jebel Fihrayn, also known as the Edge of the World, where the vast desert stretches out beneath a sheer 300-metre drop. We arrive just before sunset and hike across rough trails to watch the golden light flood the escarpment, while the fossil-lined rocks remind us that this was once an ancient sea. As it's Saturday, we are not alone; the place is busy with locals and expatriates. Even so, it is a wonderful spot to enjoy the sunset.

We arrive back in Riyadh at around 10 pm, which is still early enough to explore the Riyadh Boulevard, a giant leisure area for Saudi families. In a country where the heat soars in summer, public life naturally extends into the cooler night-time hours. So it's no wonder that even at this time, we see many families with young children. The car parks surrounding the boulevard are some of the biggest I have ever seen. Massive!

In the morning, we pick up my luggage at the airport. Once again, the Airtag is extremely useful, as it guides me directly to the Saudi package counter. Great! Highly recommended!

After resting, we drive to Diriyah, located near Riyadh. It's a historical district that is significant in Saudi Arabia’s cultural and political heritage. The original home of the Al Saud family, Diriyah played a crucial role in establishing the first Saudi state in the 18th century. Today, it features restored mud-brick buildings, museums and cultural sites that highlight its rich history, earning it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

We arrive at around 3:30 pm and are almost alone. Saudi social life doesn't start until after 5 pm. Everything is perfectly organised, with dozens of friendly staff on hand to point out where to go next. In one of the museums, we are amazed by the current King Salman's family tree. It is enormous, especially considering that it only shows the male line.

Although the place is nicely restored, it feels a bit sterile for my taste. Officially, an online ticket is required, which is free before 05:00 pm.We decided to see what would happen if we didn't have a ticket, and in the end no one asked us to show one. I doubt it's different after 05:00 pm

Next to the heritage site is the Bujairi Terrace, which offer a great view of the old town and some expensive restaurants. We decide to have dinner tonight in the Riyadh city at Muqlat Alfurayj and don't regret it, as the food is really excellent and prices much more reasonable.

As there is not much to do in Riyadh in the morning, we sleep in. Later, we visit the fascinating National Museum, as well as the Murabba Historical Palace. Built in the 1930s during the reign of King Abdulaziz, the palace is a significant cultural landmark. Designed in the traditional Najdi architectural style, the palace served as a royal residence and centre of governance. It seems quite small for a king's palace. I especially liked the many old black-and-white photos from that time.

After a coffee break, we take a look at Al-Safat Square, which is also known locally as 'Chop Chop Square' due to its historical association with public executions that took place there until 2022. The name derives from the method of execution used: beheading by sword. It's strange to see children running over the blood drains that can still be seen.

Next, we stroll through the Souq Al Zel before visiting the Al Faisaliah Tower to enjoy the view over Riyadh.

We have dinner at the traditional and very popular Najd Village Restaurant.

On the way to Abha

Today, we have a long 980 km ride ahead of us, mostly through the desert, to Abha. We are already on the road by 6:30 am. On the way out of Riyadh , we pass an enormous building site with dozens of cranes. Saudi Arabia always thinks big! I'm glad to leave the crazy Riyadh traffic behind.

Once we're out of town, the traffic quickly thins out. It's fascinating to drive for hours through nothing but sand and rocks, occasionally interrupted by a lonely, dusty petrol station or some camels. However, the endless straight, well-paved, two-lane road also becomes tiring over time. I'm not sure if the car and truck wrecks next to the road are a reminder not to fall asleep. It works — we change the driver several times. The speed limit is mostly 120 km/h, and frequent speed cameras ensure it is kept. Cruise control is our best friend.

Before reaching Abha, we stop briefly at a camel farm.

Abha - A Hidden Gem for Tourism

We arrive in Abha late, so we only have dinner and enjoy a "Saudi Shampagne", of course without alcohol, before we retire to bed.

Abha is a scenic city, nestled in the Asir Mountains at an altitude of around 2,200 meters— making it one of the coolest and greenest places in the Kingdom. Known for its pleasant summer climate, Abha offers lush landscapes, terraced farms, and traditional stone-and-mud architecture. It's a favourite summer retreat for Saudis and a growing destination for nature and culture lovers alike.

Our Airbnb is next to a viewpoint, which offers fantastic views of the valley below. Baboons roam the area, but make sure to keep a safe distance.

There are not many tourists in Saudi Arabia yet, and even fewer make their way to Abha. It's no wonder that even a simple visit to a fast food potato stall can become a surprising event. We try to communicate with the owner, who hardly speaks English but who seems delighted by our visit and asks us many questions that we hardly understand. As well as the snack we ordered, we are given lots of other free things to try. Of course, we also have to take pictures together. We feel like VIPs.

Shortly after a car pass by and suddenly stops. The driver window goes down, two eye slits look at us and we believe we can see a smile behind them before we are greeted with a loud “Welcome to Saudi Arabia”. The window goes up again and the two ladies in their black abayas move off. Melanie and I stand there with our mouths open, first looking after the car, then at ourselves with incredulous eyes: "Did that really just happen in the middle of strictly conservative Saudi Arabia, where not so long ago women were not allowed to drive a car at all nor talk to strangers? Is this the Wind of Change?

In the afternoon, we will drive to Rijal Alma, a historic village situated in the mountains near the city of Abha. The village is famous for its stone houses, which are stacked on top of one another to create a distinctive terraced appearance. Built from locally sourced stone, these houses are designed to withstand the region’s challenging weather conditions, including heavy rains and cooler temperatures at higher altitudes. The village's narrow alleys and staircases offer a glimpse into the past. Exploring the village is really enjoyable, and we can also witness the filming of a tourism promotional video.

We set off early this morning to take advantage of the soft morning light. An hour later, we reach the Al-Jahamah Historical Village, which we have all to ourselves.

Next, we visit the nearby Al Khalaf Archaeological Village, where I particularly like the colourful doors.

We are disappointed by the Al Habala Village Viewpoint, which is only open during the summer months. Dozens of secluded areas are clustered along the mountain ridge. Now, the fenced area is completely abandoned.

A roadblock on the way.

The Taminas Heritage Museum is a collection of almost everything, including old cars in the backyard. When we arrive, a large group of Muslim women are also visiting the museum. We learn that they are architecture students and are invited to visit their project booth this afternoon in a shopping mall in Abha.

We have a rather disappointing walk through the city centre in the afternoon. Abha is not an appealing city. We take a look at the Al Muftaha Art Village, which has some nice wall paintings but is otherwise completely abandoned and lacks the charm of a lost place.

After having a coffee, we walk along the Art Street. We see lots of women. They are all wearing black abayas and hijabs with niqabs. It's clear that this place is more conservative than Riyadh. Nevertheless, even here, we see a couple holding hands. Hayy Basta, the old town, is closed, so we decide to drive to the mall to meet the architecture students we met earlier.

We wonder how we can identify the architecture students in the huge mall. The place is full of women wearing black abayas, hijabs and niqabs, leaving only their eyes visible, and to a certain extent their height and width, for identification. We wonder how they manage to recognise each other; Melanie thinks it's probably by the handbag.

But of course, it's the other way around; we are immediately spotted as we are the only Europeans here, and we stand out like 'a colourful dog'. The booth that the students have set up in the mall is to present their various architecture projects. They are surprised that we show up at all. Of course, we now get a special tour with proud explanations of their projects. A guy with a huge camera follows us, filming everything. We enjoy chatting to the enthusiastic students and finally get our names written in Arabic calligraphy. It's a nice experience.

On the way to Al Bahah

Today, we have a 5-hour, 320-kilometre drive to Al Bahah ahead of us, including a steep 1,200-metre descent to the valley floor on a spectacular mountain road. Unfortunately, we have to share the road with lots of trucks going down at walking pace and using their low gears. It's only a two-lane road with solid double lines in the middle, but, hey, we're in Saudi Arabia — who cares about double lines? After seeing one car after another overtake, I decide to follow in the hope of surviving the bendy, truck-infested road — Inshallah!

On the way, we stop to eat at Altazaj, the extremely popular Saudi Arabian McDonald's. The nuggets and fries are really good for fast food, and the restaurant is spotlessly clean. When we take our seats, the Indian-looking manager reminds us that family seperées are also available. We ask if we can sit in the open area too, and he replies with a classic Indian head movement, followed by, "No problem, sir".

We're not sure if this was just information or a hint to move to a separate area. But no one seems to take any notice of us.

Al Bahah and Thee Ain - Living Heritage

Two hours before sunset, we arrive in Thee Ain, a historical village nestled in the rolling hills of southern Saudi Arabia. Renowned for its ancient terraced fields and stone houses, Thee Ain seems lost in time, untouched by modernity. We wander through narrow alleys, our footsteps echoing off the stone walls. The houses, built from local stone, seem to grow out of the mountainside, stacked one on top of the other, with green fields stretching below. Every corner reveals a new view. A fascinating place, we enjoy to explore.

We wait for the sunset to enjoy the view of the illuminated city, before we leave. After a 1,200-metre climb — luckily with only a few trucks this time — we reach Al Bahah, where we spend the night.

Today, we have a 5-hour drive and 400 km to Jeddah ahead of us. Once again, we have to descend spectacularly by more than 1,000 metres from the plateau. Monkeys roam around the viewpoints, as some people seem to feed them. Getting too close, Melanie is charged at by a large male monkey.

Arriving at the outskirts of Mecca, I accidentally miss the turn-off for non-Muslims following Google's directions to Jeddah. I'm surprised that the motorway is only for Muslims, as it doesn't lead into the city, but around it.

Melanie reminds me, and at the next police checkpoint, I try to explain our mistake. After confirming twice that we are not Muslim, the friendly officer directs us back onto the road and shows us a route to reach our turn. The detour takes an additional 20 minutes. I wonder what would have happened if we had tried to sneak through the checkpoint. Well, we'll never know.

Jeddah - Old Town Charms and New Horizons

The temperature in Jeddah is 34 degrees Celsius. Similar to Riyadh, but with the added humidity of being right by the sea, it feels unpleasant. We check into the Hotel Moments. The suite is big and nicely furnished. Excellent value! After a break, we drive to the 17km-long Jeddah Corniche, which can be walked along. We choose the section around the scenic Al Rahma Mosque, which lies next to the water. Many families gather here, sitting on the grass, on benches or on huge carpets they have brought with them, having a picnic. It's a busy but peaceful atmosphere. The mosque especially looks beautiful in the afterglow.

This place is incredible! The Al Taybat International City Museum of Science and Information is a cultural landmark in Jeddah. Designed in the traditional Hijazi architectural style, it features coral stone, carved wooden latticework and ornate courtyards.

The sprawling complex is overwhelming; it comprises 12 buildings and around 300 rooms, as well as multiple wings — 18 in total — and houses over 60,000 artefacts spanning pre-Islamic, Islamic, Saudi and international history. It feels as though no square centimetre is unused.

Visitors can explore exhibits such as ancient manuscripts, coins, tribal costumes, pottery, scientific instruments and interactive dioramas, all within a setting that feels like a heritage village. Opening times are Saudi style 08:00–12:00 and 17:00–21:00. We spent the morning there and then have to leave at 12:00. This is by far not enough time, so we decide to come back the next day, as we need time to process all the impressions from today.

To escape the midday heat, we visit a shopping centre. It's easy to see why shopping centres are such a popular pastime in a country where the daytime temperatures are unbearable for most of the year. I especially like the boutique aimed at the modern Saudi man. Very fashionable.

Without a doubt, strolling through Al Balad, Jeddah's historic heart, is the highlight of a visit to the city. Dating back over 1,400 years, the old town was once a crucial gateway for pilgrims arriving by sea en route to Mecca. Built from Red Sea coral stone and adorned with distinctive rawasheen (wooden lattice balconies), the architecture reflects practical cooling strategies and coastal craftsmanship. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014, the district contains over 650 historic buildings and 36 mosques. Although extensive restoration efforts under Vision 2030 have revitalised Al-Balad in recent years, many run-down and dilapidated buildings remain. We follow narrow alleys lined with bustling souks, from Souq Qabil to the spice-scented labyrinths of Al-Alawi, where vendors offer textiles, incense and local crafts. This is definitely a must-do activity when visiting Jeddah.

Today we start with a second visit to the Al Taybat International City Museum of Science and Information. After three hours, like yesterday, we again leave feeling overwhelmed by what we have seen. It really feels like someone has just decided to collect everything and anything. There is even a room full of comic book characters.

In the afternoon, we again stroll along the Corniche to enjoy the sunset. At that time in Jeddah, this is truly the best place to be.

On the way to Medina

On the way out of the city, we make a short detour to see the Jeddah Tower (formerly Kingdom Tower), currently under construction. It's set to become the world’s tallest building, surpassing the Burj Khalifa. Designed by Adrian Smith + Gordon Gill, it will soar to over 1,000 meters with around 165–167 floors, including luxury residences, offices, a Four Seasons hotel, and an observation deck at approximately 664 meters.

Construction first began in 2013, paused in 2018, resumed in January 2025, and is expected to be completed by 2028.

Medina - Exploring the Heart of Islamic Heritage

It's a long, boring 400 km drive through a mostly stony desert, to Medina, Islam’s second holiest city after Mecca. While the latter is still closed to non-Muslims, Medina has been open to visitors since 2023. This is the first time we see a significant number of tour buses on the road, most likely carrying pilgrims. To gain some insight into Saudi Arabia and its people, a trip to Medina requires at least a basic understanding of Islam. While Melanie is driving, I use the time to see what ChatGPT comes up with in response to some questions. Results below.

How was Islam founded?

Islam was founded in the 7th century CE in the Arabian Peninsula by the Prophet Muhammad. According to Islamic belief, Muhammad received the first revelations from Allah (God) through the angel Gabriel in 610 CE while meditating in a cave on Mount Hira near Mecca. These revelations continued over a period of 23 years and were compiled into Islam’s holy book, the Quran.
Muhammad’s teachings centered on monotheism, social justice, and moral conduct, which challenged the polytheistic and tribal practices of Mecca at the time. Initially, he faced significant opposition and persecution from the ruling Quraysh tribe and other leaders. In 622 CE, Muhammad and his followers migrated to Medina in an event known as the Hijra, which marked the start of the Islamic calendar. In Medina, Muhammad established a growing Muslim community and laid the foundation for Islamic law and society.
Medina is also home to the Prophet’s Mosque (Al-Masjid an-Nabawi), where Muhammad is buried.
Through both peaceful teachings and defensive battles, Islam expanded its influence across the Arabian Peninsula. By the time of Muhammad’s death in 632 CE, Islam had grown into a unified religious and political force. His followers continued spreading Islam, which eventually expanded beyond Arabia and became a major world religion.

What are the five pillars of Islam?

The Five Pillars of Islam are the essential acts of worship that define a Muslim’s faith and practice:

Shahada (Declaration of Faith): The profession that “There is no god but Allah, and Muhammad is His messenger,” affirming the core belief of Islam.
Salah (Prayer): Performing five daily prayers facing Mecca. This practice reinforces discipline, spirituality, and closeness to Allah.
Zakat (Almsgiving): Giving a portion of one’s wealth to those in need, usually 2.5% of savings. It promotes social responsibility and helps reduce inequality.
Sawm (Fasting during Ramadan): Abstaining from food, drink, and other physical needs from dawn to sunset during the holy month of Ramadan. This pillar is a time for self-purification, empathy, and devotion.
Hajj (Pilgrimage to Mecca): A mandatory pilgrimage for those who can afford it and are physically able, performed once in a lifetime. It symbolizes unity, equality, and submission to Allah.

What are the core beliefs in Islam?

The core beliefs in Islam are encapsulated in the Six Articles of Faith, which outline the essential tenets that every Muslim is expected to believe:

Belief in One God (Tawhid): Muslims believe in the absolute oneness of Allah, who is the sole creator, sustainer, and ruler of the universe. Allah is unique, without partners or equals, and worthy of worship.
Belief in Angels: Angels are regarded as spiritual beings created by Allah who carry out His commands. They are considered pure beings that do not have free will and perform specific tasks, such as delivering messages, recording deeds, and protecting humans.
Belief in Divine Books: Muslims believe that Allah revealed holy scriptures to various prophets to guide humanity. These include the Torah (to Moses), the Psalms (to David), the Gospel (to Jesus), and the Quran (to Muhammad), which is considered the final and complete revelation.
Belief in Prophets and Messengers: Islam teaches that Allah sent numerous prophets throughout history to guide people to the right path. This includes notable figures like Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, and Jesus, with Muhammad being the last and final prophet. All prophets conveyed the same core message of monotheism and righteousness.
Belief in the Day of Judgment: Muslims believe that there will come a day when all humans will be resurrected and judged by Allah for their deeds. This belief emphasizes accountability and the afterlife, where individuals will be rewarded with paradise or punished in hell based on their actions and faith.
Belief in Divine Destiny (Qadar): This belief holds that Allah has preordained everything that happens in the universe, but humans still possess free will to make choices. It acknowledges that while Allah’s will is supreme, individuals are responsible for their actions and decisions.

These core beliefs form the foundation of a Muslim’s faith and worldview, guiding their relationship with Allah, their understanding of life and the universe, and their moral and ethical behavior.

Pilgrimages are big business in Medina, and there are plenty of hotels in the city, especially around the Prophet’s Mosque. Of course, rooms with a view of the mosque are the most expensive, but I got a good deal when I booked at the brand new Al Manakha Rotana. Check-in is chaotic with so many pilgrimage groups, but otherwise the hotel is great and in a perfect location. Our room faces the mosque directly and has big windows, so we can see everything that's going on. Cool!

The view from the top is even better. The official rooftop is not yet open, but an emergency staircase leads to another rooftop full of technical equipment and with the perfect view of the mosque. It's absolutely gorgeous.

During the afternoon, we mix with the pilgrims, who are from a variety of different countries. It's a peaceful atmosphere and nobody seems to care about us. Although we know we are not allowed inside the mosque, we quickly learn that this also applies to the huge forecourt, despite there being no signs.

After strolling around for a while, a friendly, normal-looking guy starts a conversation with us. He casually asks us where we are from and if we are Muslim. We don't want to lie, but we can already sense the trouble coming. The man tells us he is an official and asks us to follow him to a guardhouse. For a moment, I remember the Chop Chop Square in Riyadh and shiver inside. The guard doesn't seem happy. Not because of us personally, but because the other guy is bringing him work. Our pictures are taken, and we are asked to provide our details. We are told that we are not allowed on the forecourt and then asked to leave it. No one follows us on the way out, but we are intimidated enough to follow their request. We are somehow relieved that we are not getting into any more trouble.

Some facts about the Mosque

Some facts about the mosque:

Founded: Originally built by Prophet Muhammad in 622 CE
Significance: The second holiest site in Islam, after the Masjid al-Haram in Mecca
Original Size: ~1,050 m² (7×7 meters initially, expanded several times)
Current Size: Over 400,000 m²
Capacity: Can accommodate over 1 million worshippers during Hajj and Ramadan
Minarets: 10 minarets (each ~105 meters tall)
Domes: Over 27 sliding domes and one iconic Green Dome above the Prophet’s tomb
Tomb: Contains the burial site of Prophet Muhammad, Abu Bakr, and Umar ibn al-Khattab

Modern Features:

250+ giant retractable umbrellas in the courtyard
Full air-conditioning system
Extensive underground facilities for services and worship

Sunrise atmosphere

On the way to Al-Ula

Spiritually enlightened, we leave Medina. Our next destination is Al-Ula, which is about 350 km away and where we will stay for the next three nights.

Al-Ula - Where History, Nature, and Vision 2030 Converge

When we arrive in Al-Ula, our host Mohammed welcomes us with a coffee and tea ceremony. His English is limited, but he is the most humble person we could imagine. We have the whole house, including a garden and a Bedouin tent, to ourselves. He is living next to the property in a small hut.

In the evening, we will sit together and talk for a long time with the help of Google Translate while he cooks chicken with rice. This is the first time I have felt able to glimpse the reality behind the shiny facade of Saudi society. Thank you, Mohammed, for being the perfect local host that a curious traveller could wish for.

For sunset we drive to the Harrat viewpoint. There are designated parking spaces, welcoming staff, perfect facilities, lounge music and comfortable cushioned seating, but no entrance fee and no option to buy drinks. Strange, but who cares. The view is absolutely stunning.

Today, I booked a tour to visit the famous Nabatean tombs at Hegra. In the past, it was possible to visit independently, but nowadays, in preparation for the expected increase in tourist numbers, everything in Al-Ula is quite regulated. All the tours can be booked online via ExperienceAlUla and most of them start from the Winter Park Parking Area, which even provides a climatized waiting area.

We have booked the first tour at 07:30 to make the most of the good light and avoid the heat of the day. It's too early for most Saudiss, so the bus is only 15% full. The tour takes about three and a half hours and stops at four points of interest, where we learn more about the Nabateans.

This ancient Arab people best known for their rock-carved city of Petra in Jordan, which I visited on my Jordan trip 2017, also left a lasting legacy in northwestern Saudi Arabia, especially at AlUla and Hegra. Around the 1st century BCE to the 1st century CE, the Nabataeans controlled key trade routes across the Arabian Peninsula, transporting incense, spices, and goods between the Mediterranean and the Arabian Gulf. In Saudi Arabia, they built elaborate tombs cut into sandstone cliffs, with facades blending Greco-Roman and Arabian styles. Hegra became their southern capital and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site — the first in Saudi Arabia.

Although Hegra is absolutely impressive, it is no match for Petra, which is in a different league and is one of the most impressive sights I have ever visited. However, Petra is extremely busy with tourists, which is where Hegra comes into its own. There is no one around here except for our small group. We have the whole place to ourselves!

Back at the Hegra Welcome Centre, we experience the reconstruction of a Nabataean woman, known as Hinat, which was created using forensic anthropology, archaeology, and digital modeling from her 1st-century BCE skeleton.

Found in a tomb inscribed “Hinat, daughter of Wahbu,” her near-complete remains revealed she was wealthy enough to secure personal burial rights, highlighting women’s roles and social status in Nabataean society.

In the afternoon, we take a stroll along the partly shaded Oasis Heritage Walk, which is surprisingly nice. We are even invited to have tea with a Saudi family who are resting under palm trees. We learn that they are on holiday and have come from Jeddah.

The Old Town of AlUla is a maze of narrow mudbrick alleyways and stone houses, inhabited from at least the 12th century until the 1980s. Strategically located along historic pilgrimage and trade routes, it once served as a vibrant stopover for travelers crossing the Arabian Peninsula. With around 900 traditional houses, mosques, and market spaces, the town reflects centuries of Hijazi architecture and desert life.

Today, many buildings have been carefully restored, turning Old Town into a walkable open-air museum that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding sandstone cliffs. It’s a place where history should become alive. Although it looks nice, the restored area appears a bit too posh, polished and perfect for my liking. It has lost its authenticity and now feels more like a historic Disneyland, complete with actors who are happy to have their picture taken — I have to admit, they're quite nice.

In the morning we take another tour, this time to the rock tombs and rock engravings of the Dadanite Kingdom, a culture significantly older than the Nabatean. It flourished between the 9th and 6th centuries BCE and was one of the earliest advanced cultures in the Arabian Peninsula. Located at a key crossroads of incense and trade routes, Dadan became a wealthy city-state known for its monumental tombs carved into red sandstone cliffs, including the striking lion tombs, which to our dismay can only be seen from a distance with provided telescopes.

Everything on the tour is organised to minimise the need for walking, with air-conditioned buses and driverless vehicles available. Even for distances of 150 metres, golf carts are available for the group.

The Dadanites also developed a distinctive script and left behind inscriptions revealing aspects of their religion, governance and social order. We like the idea of learning more about the script by creating our own inscriptions with our names with the help of a guide. It's a nice idea.

There are many rock formations in the area, such as Monkey Fingers and the popular Elephant Rock, which is illuminated at night and has a seating area with music. In the past, the area was freely accessible, but when we arrive, we find it fenced off and are not allowed to enter. We are told to come back in the late afternoon when it opens. We won't make it.

One of the pictures that inspired me to visit Al-Ula was of a monumental mirrored building in the middle of the desert, reflecting the stunning landscape around it. It looked completely surreal.

Now we are standing in front of it. Maraya, meaning “mirror” in Arabic, is a stunning concert hall and cultural venue located in the heart of the Ashar Valley. Clad in 9,740 mirrored panels, it holds the Guinness World Record for the world’s largest mirrored building, reflecting the dramatic desert landscape that surrounds it. As part of Saudi Arabia’s Vision 2030 tourism strategy, Maraya hosts concerts, exhibitions and conferences featuring international artists and cultural events. Andrea Bocelli, Usher, Alicia Keys and Seal are just a few of the artists who have already performed here.

The problem with Maraya is that it's on private land owned by a hotel group, so it's not publicly accessible without a concert ticket or a booking at one of the group's expensive hotels or restaurants. In my opinion, the hotel prices, they ask for now in winter time, are ridiculous, even considering the comfort and unique scenery. Compared to the already steep summer prices, they double or even triple in winter, with the cheapest regular option during our visit costing 450 euros per night. Before the trip, therefore, I carefully observed the prices for a while, hoping for a deal. Fortunately, I stumbled upon one that was too good to be true via a website I didn't know. I took the risk and booked for one night, and to be sure, I contacted the Caravan AlUla by Our Habitas hotel directly to confirm the reservation, which they did after three days. Bingo! Paying half the normal price was still expensive, but it was worth it to visit such a special place.

Caravan AlUla by Our Habitas is quite a unique place. Our home for the night is an air-conditioned Airstream set in beautiful surrounding. The public area is organised like a luxurious Arabic tent camp. Food can be ordered from charming food trucks.

The good thing about Caravan AlUla by Our Habitas is that we can also use the pool area at the more upmarket Our Habitat. A free transfer takes us there. The pool setting is absolutely stunning — the most unique I have ever experienced! Ok, better not to ask about environmental effects in this dry desert landscape. Nevertheless we have a very enjoyable afternoon.

The Banyan Tree Resort is the most exclusive hotel in the area. We can only see it from a distance.

We visit Maraya again to enjoy the sunset atmosphere and the way it is reflected in the building's facade. There must be an event tonight, as many guests have arrived. Saudi horse riders welcome them.

Enjoying our camp at night. There is even a rock cinema, unfortunately with a boring black and white movie. "Laurence of Arabia" would have been a far better movie option. We share the cinema with only six guest, but leave after 30 minutes.

On the way to Wadi Disah

We enjoy the morning atmosphere at the camp, before we leave around lunchtime to Wadi Disha. We decide to take a more remote and scenic route. Unfortunately not the best idea, as our gasoline is running low on the way and there is no gas station for miles nor any other cars around. We are getting more and more nervous and I'm extremely relieved when a rather shabby but open gasoline station suddenly appears. Feels like finding an oasis after one week crossing the desert. Saved!!!

Wadi Disha - A Hidden Oasis of Cliffs, Palms, and Silence

I've booked a night in an Arabian-style tent on a mango farm in Wadi Disha. There weren't many options available on the usual booking sites. The whole area is not very developed in terms of tourism.

Thanks to a contact we received from a German family we met in Riyadh, we've organised a half-day jeep tour through three wadis for tomorrow. We couldn't find any information about tour options online. Since there's still time, I decide to drive to the end of the surfaced road, beyond which only a 4WD can go. My plan is to walk for a while into the Wadi, enjoying the scenery, before turning around and driving back.

At the car park, there are a couple of jeeps and drivers waiting for clients. I'm asked several times to hire a jeep, but I decline politely. One driver asks me at least four times, offering lower and lower prices, but I still have no intention of hiring one and start walking. In some areas, I have to walk through pools of water up to my knees. Twenty minutes later, the driver who had persistently tried to sell me a tour of the Wadi overtakes me. He has found four Spanish clients who seem to be in a very good mood. He makes me another very tempting offer, which I finally agree to. Together with the funny Spanish guys, I have a good time exploring the beautiful Wadi.

In the evening, I sit with the farm manager and some of his friends and drink tea. They all seem to be tour drivers. Once they learn that I'm from Germany, they show me pictures and videos of their luxurious AMG Mercedes in Tabuk, where they live out of season. I wonder how they can afford this. The steep tour and accommodation prices here might be the answer. I should switch my job.

After a good and quiet night in our tent, we are the only guests, our driver arrives on time at 7:30am in a Toyota jeep that is probably older than me. Most people only visit Wadi Disha, but we heard from other travellers that Wadi Rumla and Wadi Turban are different and also worth visiting. We are indeed glad that we decided to do so and have a good time exploring the area with Mischal from Dadan Tours.

Mischal is a funny guy with lot's of energy. We have a great time together.

On the way to Tabuk and flight back

Back at the camp, we have a shower before starting our final leg to Tabuk, where we do the last shopping, return the car and catch our flight to Riyadh and then on to Frankfurt.

Trip Summary

Saudi Arabia may not have yet the polished tourism infrastructure of Dubai, the iconic highlights of Jordan’s Petra and Wadi Rum, or the timeless charm of Oman’s authenticity. But what makes Saudi Arabia truly compelling is the feeling of witnessing a country in motion — a place where centuries-old traditions meet rapid cultural change.

Exploring Saudi Arabia today means stepping into a moment of transformation. You see it in the reawakening of historic sites, the opening of museums and music halls, the growing presence of women in public life, and the curiosity of locals eager to share their stories.

It’s not always easy or seamless, but that’s part of the appeal — Saudi Arabia feels real, raw, and in transition, and for the curious traveler, that makes all the difference. So don't wait too long for a visit.

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