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Kuching is the capital of the Malaysian state of Sarawak. I´m not sure about the status, but interestingly even after an domestic arrival visitors need to go through immigration and get an entry stamp into the state. The name of the city is said to be derived from the Malay word for cat, emphasized with several cat monuments around the city and even a cat museum. There is a big Chinese community in Kuching, which is reflected by many Chinese shops, restaurants and temples.
It´s quite a pleasant city for Asian standards, not to big, relatively clean and with a nice waterfront area, which is especially interesting for people watching and having some chats with locals and tourist in the evening time.
30min from Kuching with a shuttle bus, the center gives an insight into the different tribes of Sarawak. Houses, traditional clothes and skills of the tribes are presented. It´s a nice half day excursion and doesn´t feel to artifical.
Just 40 min by bus from Kuching and another 20 min by boat and you are in another world. There are many different trails to explore and although not that long in km, going up an down over thousands of roots in the hot humid climate can be challenging (at least for me). Additionally there are all sorts of rain, from hefty downpours to steady drizzle. But who cares, the clothes are wet anyway.
Established 1975 to rehabilitate wild animals who have been injured, orphaned in the wild or handicapped by prolonged captivity the center is now one of the few spots on earth to see semi-wild Orang Utans. Depending on the fruit season in jungle and weather condition more or less Orang Utans will show up at the feeding times. There are more than 20 around in Semenggoh and it´s fun watching this fascinating creates
It can´t be denied. Logging roads are all over and huge palm oil plantations continuously replace the primary rainforest. Flying over Borneo reveals the nasty site of the economical growth in Malaysia.
Around one hour flight from Kuching, in the interior of Sarawak lies the Gunung Mulu NP. The park is famous for it´s caves. and lot´s of superlatives. The largest known natural chamber (Sarawak Chamber, 700m long, 400m wide and 70m high), one of the largest single cave passage (Deer Cave) and the largest cave in the world by volume (Clearwater Cave). A guide told me, that it took 14 days to bring all required equipment in the Sarawak Chamber to illuminate it completely for a picture. And as they finally wanted to switch on the lights the generator created a voltage peak causing all bulbs to explode and delaying the whole thing for another 4 days to get the spare bulbs from the mainland. And everything for one shot.
Beside the caves there is lot´s of rainforest around and therefore opportunities to spot some wildlife, although the night walk in Bako NP was far better.
A big (almost) daily event is the bat exodus. In the evening millions of bats are leaving the deer cave for feeding. After the first attempt did not work out due to heavy rain (you can not blame the bats to stay dry in the cave) I was lucky enough to follow the event 2 days later. It´s an amazing stream of bats from the cave and after 45 minutes of watching, it still kept going. So many bats consume lot´s of insects every day and accordingly lot´s of bat pooh is generated, piling up to big pooh mountains in some areas of the cave. The stench is overwhelming and can´t be described by words.
© 2026 Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret