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Mongolia - Dinosaurs and Eagle Hunters

29 day epic road trip through breathtaking wilderness 08/2023

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

March 18^th, 2024

Motivation - Why to go?

Mongolia was not on my bucket list for a long time. I had a stereotype of it as an endless, boring sea of green hills and valleys. However, my perception changed when I learned about the Gobi Desert in the south and the forested Taiga in the north. An article about hiking in Mongolia also made me realize that there is obviously more to Mongolia than green hills. I came across pictures of the colourful Nadaam festival, where Mongolians celebrate their ancient skills of archery, wrestling and horse riding once a year. These skills date back to the times of Genghis Khan when Mongolians, with their feared horse archers, conquered a significant part of the known world.

My interest was aroused and I had a first look at the various tour packages offered on the internet. This is how I found out about the Kazakh eagle hunters in the Altai and the nomadic way of life of many Mongolians. Overall, this was enough to convince Melanie, our friend Steffi, and me to make Mongolia a prime target for a visit in 2023.

Facts and Figures

Size: 1,564,116 sq. km
Population: 3.2 million
Capital and biggest city: Ulaanbaatar, with 1.6 million inhabitants
Languages: Mongolian, Russian, some English in touristic places
Currency: Tögrög, 10.000 MNT = 2,73€ (01/2024)

Climate and best travel time.

Mongolia experiences a continental climate with harsh winters and hot summers. Winters, from November to March, are extremely cold, with temperatures dropping well below freezing, and the country covered in snow. The best time to visit Mongolia is during the summer months of June to August when temperatures are milder, ranging from 20 to 30 degrees Celsius. This period offers pleasant weather for exploring the vast landscapes, lush meadows, and nomadic culture that define Mongolia. The Naadam Festival, held in July, is a highlight, showcasing traditional sports and festivities, but of course it's also the peak tourist season. Travelers are advised to avoid the unpredictable spring and autumn seasons, characterised by sudden temperature fluctuations and occasional dust storms, which may impact the overall travel experience. We decided to travel from August to September, just after the peak season.

Itinerary

Mongolia is a vast country, five times larger than Germany but with a population smaller than that of Berlin. As I have learned a lot about this country over the years, I now wanted to experience it all. I conducted thorough research on how to combine all aspects into one itinerary and found the website of Odkha Travel, a specialised Mongolian tour provider, to be extremely useful. I contacted them, and Frank and his Mongolian wife Odmaa were very helpful and knowledgeable in putting together the perfect tour for us. We only had to make one compromise: A visit at the reindeer nomads in the Taiga was impossible to fit into our intended 4 weeks itinerary as it would have required at least another week.

Our plan was to travel south from Ulaanbaatar to the Gobi. Then, heading back north to Kharkhorin, the green historical heartland of the Mongolians, before heading slowly west to the rugged Altai and the eagle hunters, and finally flying back to Ulaanbaatar. The route would covers a distance of approximately 5000km, including many off-road sections. To maintain authenticity, we chose to use a classic Russian UAZ bus (locally called Furgon) instead of a Landcruiser. The accommodation was planned to include a mix of hotels, yurt ("ger" in Mongolian) camps, camping, and homestays with the nomads. Overall an epic road trip.

Ulaanbaatar (UB)

Flights from Germany to Mongolia are limited and MIAT, the Mongolian state airline, offered the best deals including non-stop flights. They have a couple of fairly new Dreamliners that normally fly the route, but our plane seems to be a bit older and the seats are rather uncomfortable for such a long distance.

It's around 6:00 when we arrive and Odmaa, who will be our guide for the first half of the tour, is already waiting for us. Together with her brother Khassan we travel the 60km to our hotel in Ulaanbaatar.

Ulaanbaatar, the capital and largest city of Mongolia, is situated in the north-central part of the country. It serves as Mongolia's political, economic, and cultural hub. The city is known for its unique blend of traditional Mongolian elements and modern urban development, featuring Buddhist monasteries alongside modern skyscrapers. But let's face it, Ulaanbaatar is far away from being an attractive city from a tourist perspective. Traffic is a nightmare. Air pollution is among the highest in the world, especially in winter when dirty coal is used to heat the countless yurts erected in the city by rural migrants in search of better opportunities, but lack of affordable housing. The huge number of faceless, grey apartment blocks may help to solve the problem of the yurts, but it does not help at all to create an attractive urban atmosphere.

Our hotel, the Bayangol, is conveniently located in the centre of UB. Its charm from the communist era still persists and can be felt immediately.

After freshening up and having breakfast, we begin to explore the city, starting with Sukhbaatar Square. It's the central public square and political hub of the city. It is located in the heart of the city and is named after Damdin Sukhbaatar, a revolutionary hero of Mongolia's struggle for independence. The square features statues and monuments honouring key figures and events in Mongolian history. It's surrounded by significant government buildings, such as the Government Palace and the National Parliament.

Some city impressions.

The Chinggis Khaan Museum stands as a tribute to one of Mongolia's most iconic and historical figures, Genghis Khan. The museum offers visitors a comprehensive glimpse into the life, legacy, and conquests of the legendary Mongol leader. Through a diverse collection of artifacts, exhibits, and interactive displays, visitors can explore Genghis Khan's rise to power, his military campaigns, and the lasting impact of his empire on world history. The Museum is nicely done and we really enjoy the captivating journey through time.

We also visit the National History Museum, which displays several dinosaur skeletons. The museum is scheduled to move to a more modern location, which is urgently needed, but this has been postponed year after year.

“Naadam” in Mongolian means “games”, which makes sense since the event is primarily focused on three Mongolian skills: wrestling, horse racing, and archery, which Genghis Khaan considered essential for any Mongol warrior. Whereas horse racing and archery competitions have gradually incorporated women participants over the years, wrestling continues to be a highly male-dominated sport.

The National Nadaam Festival is Mongolia's largest festival and occurs in July. Fortunately, we can witness the second biggest festival, Danshig Naadam - Khuree tsam, just one hour outside of UB. The festival is a must-see. Its roots date back to 1639 and it also has religious elements.

The festival takes place on an enormous fairground, which is not surprising given the vast amount of space Mongolia has. It lasts for two days, and many Mongolians camp overnight. During the festival, we can witness the typical three skills.

We did not experience the National Nadaam Festival. However, we were told that it is so big that it is split up into different venues, which are quite far away from each other. In our opinion, having all the usual competitions in one place is a significant advantage.

Archery has been a popular pastime among Mongol warriors since ancient times. Historical records show Mongol warriors shooting targets from 500 metres. Today, both men and women in Mongolia actively participate in archery.

Hitting a row of short, braided cylinders arranged in a pyramid shape on the ground is this sport's unique feature. Each of the 10 men and women on the squad has 4 arrows, and they have to strike 33 targets. Men aim from a distance of 75 meters, while women aim from a distance of 65 meters.

We especially like the colourful dresses called "deel".

Mongolian wrestling is a popular traditional sport in Mongolia. Regional level festivals feature 32 to 256 wrestlers, while national wrestling involves 512 or 1024 competitors wrestling over nine or ten rounds. The sport has one simple rule: touching the surface with any body part other than the feet or hands results in a loss.

The traditional costumes used by wrestlers includes a cap, a vest with narrow shoulders, shorts, and traditional boots. The hat is a representation of the legendary Mongolian warriors who created and played the game. Wrestlers can keep their feet firmly planted and avoid slipping by wearing high boots. In our eyes the dress looks kinda.....aehhhh....unusual.

Mongolian horse racing is unique in many ways. According to an ancient Mongolian myth, touching the sweat and dirt raised by a horse during a race can change your fortunes. This is a typically long race for young jockeys on the steppe, lasting anywhere from 12 to 35 kilometers. The distance of the horse racing track varies depending on the age of the horses. Those that are two years old or older have a different distance than those that are seven years old or older. The jockeys are all children between the ages of 5 and 13. Kids are chosen as jockeys because they are lightweight and flexible throughout long races.

The contest evaluates the endurance and skills of Mongolian horses and riders, which were major contributing factors to the Mongolians' conquest of the world on horseback in the 13th century.

Horseback Archery is our favourite competition. It involves shooting at 5 target balls, about 20 meters away from each other, while galloping full speed on horseback. Arrows must be carried in a quiver and can't be held in the bow hand, which makes it even more challenging to hit the targets. If the distance is not covered within a certain time, a penalty is given.

On the way back to Ulaanbaatar, we have dinner at a Mongolian Hot Pot. There are several broth options available, and in addition, Otmaa orders various types of meat, vegetables, and noodles, which are then added to the broth and consumed. Really tasty. We withstand ordering the also available intestines and bull penises.

In the evening, we have a drink at the Blue Sky Hotel to enjoy the view.

The Gobi

The Gobi Desert in the south is a vast and iconic landscape stretching across southern Mongolia and northern China. Renowned for its extreme temperatures, sparse vegetation, and unique geological formations, the Gobi is one of the world's largest and most diverse deserts. From exploring dinosaur fossils to marveling at the breathtaking scenery, the Gobi Desert offers a truly unforgettable experience

The long 530km trip to the White Stupa (Tsagaan Survaga) today, begins with two breakdowns just a few kilometres outside UB. Firstly, the starter of our Furgon needs to be replaced. Fortunately, Oogii, who will be the driver on our trip, has a spare part, and it only takes 40 minutes. Shortly after, the rubber tube of the heating system bursts, releasing a dramatic cloud of steam. This is also repaired within 30 minutes. It will not be the last time during the trip but we soon learn that Oogii is a master mechanic and has at least 2 or even 3 spare parts for everything. There seems to be nothing he can't repair on his Furgon, which he proudly confirms.

The Russian UAZ Buchanka, also known as Furgon in Mongolia, is a rugged utility vehicle. It's a classic van known for its simple and robust design, originally developed in the Soviet Union in the 1960s. It's renowned for its durability, off-road capabilities, and reliability, making it popular in regions with harsh climates and rough terrain, like Mongolia. Oogii has given his Furgon some updates which we learn to love during our trip.

There are two benches facing opposite directions, with results in ample space in the back.
An extra table in the middle seat, which is great for storage.
An extra battery that provides power, e.g. for a cellphone, when the car engine is not running.
An armada of power socket in the front and back
Flood-lighting for camping and flashy disco lights inside for partying
A 200l diesel tank, which is extremely helpful considering the average consumption 20l/100km in rough and remote terrain.
Additionally, there is a rubbish bin located at the door, a large thermos flask for hot tea on the go, and a rubber band to securely hold small items and cellphones in the front.

There are also some drawbacks. The engine is loud. Max. speed is 90 to 100km/h even on the occasional good roads. Water drips in when it rains, and the suspension is barely existent. We feel Mongolia as it is. Our Furgon and Oogii provide the most authentic road trip experience, even though there might be more comfortable cars. In short, we love it.

The road condition is mostly good today, as we approach the Gobi. The scenery gradually becomes drier and the grass becomes shorter and more sparse. Just a few weeks ago, there was no grass at all and the land was bare, as Oogii tells us. It was only the recent rain that brought the green back.

We arrive a bit late at our destination today. The Gobi Caravanserai Lodge is new and has a modern design in earthy colours that blends well with the landscape. The toilets and showers are located in a separate building and are modern and spotlessly clean.

After dinner, we drive to the White Stupa to watch the sunset from the top. The colours are beautiful, but fade quickly. It’s too late to drive down now, but we will have another chance tomorrow morning.

The day starts early. At 06:00, I set out to take advantage of the warm early morning light. The ladies prefer to sleep a little longer. We drive to the base of the structure and walk around the hilly terrain, admiring the colourful scenery of the towering cliffs above us. The view from down here is much more dramatic than from the top viewpoint.

Today we are heading for the Yoliin Am Canyon, which is about 200km away and will take about 3.5 hours to reach. On the way, we pass Odmaa's Birthplace, a small village in the Gobi. In Dalanzadgad, we stop to buy a Unicom prepaid card, 40 GB for only 45k Tengü, then have lunch at Odmaa's sister’s place.

This is my first time trying Airag, fermented mare's milk. The strong taste may not be appealing to everyone. Although it's not my favourite drink, I find it tolerable. It's important to take it easy at first as the stomach needs time to adjust to the unfamiliar milk bacteria.

We learn: Mongolian greetings can feel a bit reserved. No handshakes or hugs. Straight forward without a lot of emotions, that’s just how it works here.

Upon arriving at the Gobiin Urguu Camp, we are welcomed by lightning and thunder in the distance. Due to a booking mistake and the lack of two standard yurts, we end up with two luxury yurts, very spacious, with windows, nicely decorated and even with en-suite bathrooms. Jackpot!

After observing the thunderstorm for a while, we decide to give it a try. The dark clouds are moving away from the Yoliin Am Canyon. We take a 20-minute ride to the starting point, which is full of cars. I'm surprised by the number of people. We are a bit late, so dozens of people, mostly Koreans, are already on their way back when we enter. The valley and the walk are nice but not spectacular. The scenery reminds me of Iceland. At the end, there is a very narrow slot where the winter ice often lasts into July and August. However, it has already disappeared now. We turn back just in time as it starts to rain.

After we've eaten and showered, we take our Chinggis Vodka just outside the camp and enjoy the night sky. It's a great way to end the day.

After a breakfast of gimbab, seaweed soup and toast - apparently aimed at Korean tour groups - we set off on our 250 km journey to Kongor Els. The weather is sunny and windy today.

During our trip, we take a short detour to Dugany Am, another canyon. It is similar to the one we visited yesterday, but there is only one other car present, and no tourists around. We enjoy the peaceful scenery and even see ibex high up in the mountains.

As we continue, the surface is covered with white flowers, almost like a field of snow. We learn that these are wild chives in bloom. Beautiful!

Our intended lunch spot is packed with Koreans and the wait is too long, so we decide to have a picnic. There are no trees, almost no vegetation, just us and the Gobi wind.

The road today is a bad washboard road. We slowly approach the first sand dunes of the Khongor Els. The dunes are 180km long, 3-15km wide, and up to 300m high. We travel along the dunes when the engine cooling system breaks down. Of course, Oogii has the right spare part, and the problem is solved within 40 minutes.

As we drive further, the last green fades away. It appears that the area has not received any rain recently. The air is filled with dust, and upon our arrival at the Gobi Discovery Camp, we are met with a sandstorm. Our yurt is located in the front row, theoretically providing us with a nice view. However, in reality, we can barely see the dunes located just one kilometer away. I am disappointed. I have seen many beautiful pictures of the dunes with green grass in the foreground and the dark mountain range in the background. Well that’s nature. Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

At 4:30 in the morning we start driving towards the sand dunes, to watch the sunrise from the highest dunes in the national park. Initially, climbing up the dune is quite easy, but on the steeper sections, every step forward is accompanied by half a step backwards. It’s a tiring process, and eventually, I give up and decide to watch the sunrise from halfway up. Later on, the drone makes it to the top with ease.

On the way back, we visit a green patch in front of the dunes. Actually, it is not just a patch, but rather a several-kilometre-long strip, only about 100 to 200 metres wide. It consists of perfectly lush green grass, the result of a small stream that flows through it. Horses and livestock graze on the pasture. With the high dunes in the background, it feels completely surreal, like an enchanted fairy tale place. This is one of the most fascinating places I have ever been to.

Back at the camp, we relax as it is too hot for any daytime activities. In the afternoon, we visit nomads who herd camels. We are invited to have salted milk tea, mare milk, and goat with pickled cucumber.

Later, we revisit the enchanted green pasture. We learn that a wealthy Japanese man flew in by helicopter today just to have lunch in a big, colourful tent that was erected specifically for that purpose. He could even choose between three main dishes, as the menu we find on the ground tells us.

Today we have more luck with the view from the camp yurt. The late afternoon light perfectly illuminates the dunes in front of the dark mountain range behind them. Beautiful.

In the morning, accompanied by a musical remix of dramatic Mongolian folk songs and Modern Talking, we drive 110km to Bayan Zag (Flaming Cliffs), the famous dinosaur place of discovery. The landscape is sometimes slightly hilly, sometimes flat as a pancake. Sometimes the "road" is miles wide. Mongolians are just bombing their way across the steppe to their destination.

At lunchtime we arrive at the Gobi Tour Tourist Camp. The canteen is full and extremely noisy. What a contrast to the quiet emptiness outside.

The small dinosaur museum gives an insight into the place. An old documentary film shows how the first dinosaur bones and eggs were found in the 1920s. Note: Just stumble down a cliff and land on dinosaur eggs. It's as simple as that. It was actually a remarkable discovery. It was the first time that dinosaur eggs had been found, and therefore the first evidence of how they reproduce. Another discovery and sensation was the finding of two dinosaur skeletons still in fighting position. No wonder the site is world famous among experts.

The red earth of the cliffs glows in the late evening light, leaving no doubt as to the origin of the name "Flaming Cliffs". We walk around, wondering what other treasures might be hidden underground.

Another long ride through the Mongolian steppe is awaiting us today, almost 300km to the Ongi Valley. In the morning we visit a Saxaul forest. The trees look more like bushes and grow max. 2m high.

A typical village scenery.

We stop for lunch by a river and then visit the ruins of the Ongi Monastery. 1000 monks lived here before the communists killed 200 and destroyed the whole monastery about 100 years ago. A tiny museum displays the few remains that survived the devastation. Today some monks live here again and a small temple has been rebuilt.

Our first campsite of the trip is in the middle of endless green pastures dotted with small lakes. There is a distinct smell of herbs in the air. Odmaa makes dinner (salad & noodles) and we have a clear Chinggis vodka to help with digestion. A beautiful night sky awaits us tonight.

Central Mongolia

The morning awaits us with a light drizzle, but luckily it stops before we have breakfast. It’s 250km to Kharakorum, a distance we cover quickly today on good roads.

On the way we visit a nomad family. They have 5 children and two boys are playing a hand game that reminds me of rock, paper, scissors. The father explains the rules and then I try. Of course I lose and have to drink a huge bowl of mare milk, hoping to survive. Before we leave we give them some of our food and are rewarded with a huge bottle of mare milk. Brrrrrr, I can't wait to drink it.

The history of Karakorum, also spelled as Kharkhorin or Kharakhorum, is closely tied to its role as the capital of the Mongol Empire during the 13th century. Established by Genghis Khan in 1220, Karakorum served as the political, economic, and cultural center of the vast Mongol Empire. Strategically located on the Silk Road, it facilitated trade and communication between the East and West.

Under Genghis Khan's successors, including his son Ögedei Khan, Karakorum flourished as a cosmopolitan city with diverse ethnic groups and religious communities. The Mongols developed it with impressive architecture, markets, and administrative structures.

However, after the decline of the Mongol Empire in the late 14th century, Karakorum gradually fell into decline. It was later destroyed by Ming Chinese forces in 1380. The city's ruins were eventually abandoned, and its exact location was lost to history for centuries.

In the modern era, Karakorum's ruins were rediscovered by archaeologists in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Excavations have revealed valuable insights into the city's layout, architecture, and its significance in the history of the Mongol Empire and the Silk Road.

Today, Karakorum is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and efforts are ongoing to preserve its historical remains and promote it as a cultural and tourist destination, attracting visitors interested in Mongolia's rich history and heritage.

William of Rubruck, a Flemish Franciscan missionary who served as the envoy of King Louis IX of France at the Mongol court reported that during the reign of Mongke, the fourth Great Khan, there was a Parisian goldsmith by the name of William Bouchier at Karakorum who constructed a silver tree at the entrance of the khan’s palace. At the base of this tree were four silver lions which belched mare’s milk from their mouths. Moreover, four gilded serpents were entwined around the tree, each of which spewed forth a different drink.

There are many illustrations on the internet supporting reports from various travellers. Most of them depict the tree as very opulent. However, this replica on site looks a bit more down to earth, including the setting.

As a well-known historical site, there are numerous accommodations available in the town. The majority of ger camps are located just outside of town, including ours. In the evening, music students from the University in Ulaanbaartar, who are on holiday and looking to earn extra money, perform traditional Mongolian music. The unique overtone singing is particularly impressive.

The 150km drive to the Orkhon waterfall sounds a lot less challenging than it is. The drive begins with heavy thunderstorm and hail, causing water to drip into our Furgon from all sides. Instead of following the Orkhon Valley the entire time, we take a detour to avoid the worst of it, including river crossings, muddy spots and very rocky terrain.

Nevertheless, it is still a tiring ride. Countless black rocks lurke out of the green grass, slowing us down and making it difficult to find the best route. The verdant landscape looks stunning, particularly when the sun shines and the clouds add drama. The Orkhon Valley we now follow is dotted with gers and livestock from the Nomads.

Our ger camp is just 20 minutes away from the most iconic site in the valley, the Orkhon Waterfall. The drone provides excellent perspectives. Unfortunately, a ropeway was recently introduced for tourist entertainment, somehow robbing this magical place of its dignity.

To my surprise, the mare milk I had last night caused a different stomach reaction compared to the first time. I felt very sick last night and still feel weak this morning.

Unfortunately, we have a long and tiring drive ahead of us. The first 120km are all bumpy off-road piste over three passes. The area is beautiful, with green, partly forested hills and flower fields, but I can't really enjoy it today. I am more than glad when we reach the main road after three hours.

We have a stop in Arghangai to visit the Aimag Museum and to have lunch (which I skip). After three hours on mostly asphalt road, we have another 45 minutes on a very bumpy road around the White Lake (Tsagaan Lake) until we finally reach our camp on the north shore.

The Maikhan Tolgoi Ger Camp is located right on the shore, and our ger offers a direct view of the lake from the bed through the open door. Unfortunately, we share this fabulous view with dozens of spiders inside the ger. Yuck! The spiders are all long-legged with medium-sized bodies. They move very slowly, as if they were drunk or stoned, and many of them appear to be dead. We refer to them as 'zombie spiders'. After a thorough spider hunt, we finally go to bed, trying to forget the nightmare.

After the long drive yesterday, today's focus is on relaxation. The weather in the morning is still not very promising. It is windy, cold and cloudy after a night of rain.

We decide to take a walk along the lake shore after a late breakfast. Eventually, the sun even makes an appearance. During our walk, we are amazed to see hundreds of birds migrating from one part of the lake to another. Odmaa spontaneously organises a boat to take us back to the hotel. What a nice idea.

For the rest of the day, we relaxe, sometimes interrupted by spider hunting in the yurt.

In the morning we have a stop for a climb up the Khorgo volcano, which is a landmark of the area. The climb takes approximately 30 minutes each way and offers stunning views of the entire area. It is worth noting that the last eruption occurred 8000 years ago.

After visiting the volcano, we continue our journey west towards the Altai. Fortunately, most of today's ride is on paved roads. We drive through endless green, grassy valleys with livestock and occasional yurts. Sometimes we have to cross a pass. The mountains are partly forested, and even some valleys are forested.

We stop at a nomad couple's home. They have five grown-up children who now live and work elsewhere. One of their daughters works as a guide for Okhda Travel, but not this year as she had a child. She now lives in UB.

We get the full guest program, starting with milk and yak cream with bread and sugar (yummy), yak cheese and yak biscuits, followed by a freshly made soup with dried yak meat, cream and noodles, and finally three rounds of milk liquor. The mother mentioned that they also produce yak ice cream and offeres to show us. The facility is located in an old building next to a school, which is a wise location. The soft ice machine was organized by her son in UB. We must try. The yak milk, sugar and chocolate powder used in this recipe make it very creamy, rich and delicious.

As we continue our journey, the landscape remains relatively unchanged. However, the constantly shifting weather conditions - from sunny skies to soft clouds, rain clouds and even dramatic storm clouds that bring hail for a brief moment - make all the difference.

We camp at an epic spot overlooking Lake Telmen. Horses graze on the soft slopes, basking in the warm evening sun. Unfortunately, it quickly gets cold once the sun disappears behind the hills. The upcoming wind doesn't help either. After dinner, we quickly find ourselves in our tents, snuggled up in our warm sleeping bags. Tonight, we are expecting a chilly four degrees Celsius.

The morning sun greets us as we look out of the tent. After a hearty breakfast of pancakes, we continue west 330km on an excellent road, towards Kyargas Nuur.

We gradually descend from 2000m to 1000m in elevation, and the landscape changes from lush green to increasingly brown and rocky terrain until almost all vegetation is gone on the last 80km of our off-road journey, until we reach the lake.

On our way, we pass a village that seems to be populated only by cows that behave like humans; they cross the road at an intersection, walk on the footpath and come out of doorways. As there are no human beings around it feels very strange.

Unfortunately, we have another flat tyre on the off-road section, which Oogii fixes in 20 minutes. He is a bit upset as it was a fairly new tyre.

After not seeing any cars for an hour, we are surprised to see yurts and several cars in a car park approaching the lake on the northern side. The area around Kyargas Nuur has become more popular in recent years with Mongolians, and several small camps have been built. We watch the Mongolian beach action for a while before heading off to find a nice, quiet campsite for the night with a stunning view of the lake. For dinner, we enjoy a tasty Kimchi stew.

On our way to Khovk (330km), we have to pass a channel with a ferry or... aehhh... whatever you want to call it. Approaching the area we see a yurt and a car on the other side, but no one seems to be around. As a 130km detour doesn't sound appealing, we honk and wait for the best, the door of the yurt opens and a guy stumbles out, looking a bit drunk. He then proceeds to pull the old ferry over by hand. Oogii is rather sceptical about the stability of the ferry ramp and looks quite relieved when the car arrives safely on the other side.

The subsequent drive is mostly off-road, sometimes good, sometimes a mixture of potholes and washboard. We stop at Khar-Us Nuur to take some pictures and are almost eaten alive by mosquitoes, so we flee as fast as we can.

Further on, we see several rare Saiga-Antelopes running at incredible speed across the steppe. They hold their heads down, resembling Formula One race cars. It is even difficult to follow them by car. They are known for their distinctive bulbous nose. With a population decline of over 95% in the past few decades, primarily due to poaching and habitat loss, they are unfortunately on the brink of extinction.

Altai Mountains

The Altai region offers a journey into the heart of wild and untamed beauty. It's located at the intersection of Russia, Mongolia, China, and Kazakhstan with landscapes of unparalleled diversity including rugged mountains, ancient forests, sparkling rivers and rare wildlife such as snow leopards and the Altai argali sheep.

On our journey from Khovd to Ulgii and the remote region near the Chinese and Russian border, we will only catch a glimpse of it.

Khovd Province, which is in close proximity to the Altai, is surprisingly diverse, with lush green pastures in one valley and rough mountain scenery in the next.

As the capital of the province, Khovd boasts a rich tapestry of cultural diversity, with inhabitants from various ethnic backgrounds including Kazakhs, Tuva, and Uighurs. The city itself is not very appealing, except for the occasional tree-lined roads. It is a dusty town and most buildings appear run down. Fortunately, our hotel Steppe is relatively new and offers very comfortable rooms. The shower and bed feel heavenly after the past few days.

Today, we sadly bid farewell to Odmaa, who needs to support a tour with the ZDF, a German TV channel, documenting Mongolia. Oogii 2 takes over; he arrived yesterday with another group who are now flying back with Odmaa to Ulaanbaartar. He studied in the DDR and speaks fluently German and English.

It takes only two hours and 100km on a good road to reach Lake Tolbo, our camping destination for tonight. Along the way, we pass the snow-covered peak of Tsast Ula, which stands at over 4000m.

Lake Tolbo is a freshwater lake situated at an elevation of around 2000m. It is surrounded by scenic mountains. At our camp spot, we enjoy a pleasant and dramatic sunset atmosphere while playing cards with Oogii 1 and Oogii 2.

After enjoying a beautiful morning at the lake,...

...we drive to Ulgii, just 60km away. Although the aimag capital is surrounded by mountains, it is not much more appealing than Khovd.

Today, we are staying in a homestay with a Kazakh family, Merei and her husband Dags. Merei used to be a teacher but is now retired and will be cooking for us for the next few days. They have a yurt next to their house, but we will be staying in rooms inside the house. The toilet is located in a separate building and is a pit toilet. Although it's spotlessly clean, the hole is large and deep enough to easily swallow a person. It is advisable to avoid using the toilet while under the influence of alcohol. I make sure to secure my phone, as the thought of losing it in the toilet is unpleasant. I don't even want to think about it,......

The shower is also located in a separate wooden building, which is heated by an oven and has a cozy atmosphere. It is also kept spotlessly clean. The water comes from a canister attached to the roof and was heated beforehand. The shower experience is quite pleasant, almost like being in a sauna, especially considering it will be our last for the next 9 days.

In the afternoon, we walk into the city and spend some time at the Arvin Coffee and Bookshop, which is the only cozy coffee place outside UB we have seen so far.

Today, we drive on bumpy roads, deeper into the Altai. A chubby marmot disappears into its hole. After two and a half hours and 70km, we reach the yurt of our Berkutschi (eagle hunter) in a very picturesque surrounding, next to a river.

Especially the drone perspective reveals how stunning the area of our camp site looks like. Breathtaking!!!

We are invited for the usual butter tea and snacks, and in the afternoon Khairatkhan, who has 40 years of experience, gives us lots of information about the art of eagle hunting.

The Berkutchi, also known as "eagle hunters," are a fascinating and integral part of Mongolia's cultural heritage. Hailing from the western regions of Mongolia, but belonging to the Turkic ethnic group of the Kazakhs, these skilled hunters have a deep bond with their majestic golden eagles. For centuries, the Berkutchi have practiced the ancient art of falconry, using trained eagles to hunt for prey such as foxes, hares, and marmots in the rugged mountain terrain.

The relationship between the Berkutchi and their eagles is one of mutual respect and trust, cultivated through years of training and companionship. Young eaglets are captured from their nests and raised by the Berkutchi, who develop a deep bond with their birds. Through intricate whistling commands and gestures, the Berkutchi direct their eagles to soar high above the mountains, scanning the landscape for prey. When a target is spotted, the eagle swoops down with astonishing speed and accuracy, capturing its quarry with powerful talons.

Free time at the camp.

Beautiful afternoon atmosphere.

We set off early today for a photo session with Khairatkhan to take advantage of the soft morning light. He is dressed in the traditional fur clothes of the Berkutchi people, and his six-year-old eagle sits majestically on his thick leather glove. To our amusement, his horse farts loudly several times as we head towards the next hill for the shoot, seemingly unconcerned with the grandeur of the situation.

Only female eagles are used for hunting because they are bigger, more aggressive, and bolder than male eagles. They kill their prey not with their impressive and dangerous-looking sharp beak, but with their strong and long claws. The eagle is typically released when it is between 6 and 8 years old and reaches sexual maturity. It can live up to 50 years.

Unfortunately, the hunting season does not start until October when rabbits, foxes, or wolves have grown their thick winter fur. It is too early for a hunting demonstration now. Nevertheless, Khairatkhan is perched on the hill for the shooting, surrounded by breathtaking scenery.

After a hearty lunch invitation in the yurt, we watch in the winter camp, a basic but solid house only 200m away from the summer ger camp, the movie/documentation "Kiran over Mongolia" which has received several international awards. Our host plays the main role as a senior eagle master, who trains a youngster in the art of eagle hunting. The international film team did all the takes within 3 month and 2 years later Khairatkhan was to his surprise invited to Dubai to a movie festival. Up to that moment he was not even aware that he played one of the two main roles in the movie.

In the evening Khairatkhan and his wife joins us for dinner in our kitchen tent and during the obligatory Vodka round express their gratitude that we are obviously so interested about the eagle hunting, asking a lot of questions.

After another morning photo session, where I mostly make use of the drone,....

...we bid farewell to our host and drive nearly 200km to Khoton and Khurgan Nuur, also known as the twin lakes, located in Altai Tavan Bogtd National Park. During the last spring floods, several bridges were demolished or washed away, so we have to make a detour. Although the route is scenic, it is also bone-rattling and the most challenging one we have encountered so far.

On the way, it becomes clear that the evening would be rainy, cloudy, and cold as we heading straight into dark blue thunder clouds towering over the Altai Tawan Bogd National Park.

Even Oogii 1, with decades of experience, has not been to this side of the lake yet. It's a time consuming trial and error to find the right path in the rough environment.

We are relieved when we finally reach Merie's brother-in-law's camp on the Khoton Nuur at 18:00. As some family members are absent, we have a yurt to ourselves, which means we also have an oven for heating. We are at an elevation of 2300m, and sleeping in a tent doesn't sound tempting.

This is the westernmost point of our trip. The Chinese border is only 5km to the west, and Russia is about 60km to the north. We have been advised against entering the forest at night due to the potential presence of wolves. Although rare, it is still a possibility. Damn exactly what I’ve planned to do this night.

We enjoy the warm morning sun. Even inside the yurt, it gets cold as soon as the fire is out. The nomadic life is already in full swing, with everyone collecting firewood, milking livestock, and saddling horses. Everybody seems to be relaxed, calm and working hand in hand together. What a pleasant morning.

Pit toilette with the million dollar view.

After breakfast, we undertake a beautiful hike to a waterfall (8km return). The path follows the side of a valley. Larches and juniper grow along the path. Some of the mountains are still covered with snow. A scenery like in the European Alps, but with far less tourists, we see only a handful. It seems that the western part of Mongolia is far less touristic than the Gobi area. We haven't seen a single Korean tour group yet.

For lunch, we drive to a viewpoint by the lake. The memorial we use as a lunch table looks like a grave, but Oogii 2 assures us that it's not.

Back at camp, we pluck up the courage to wash and swim in the lake. Although it's ice-cold at first, it quickly becomes a pleasant experience in a stunning setting. There's even a white beach on the lakeshore.

As we cannot reach the prehistoric carvings due to.....guess what..... yet another broken bridge, we drive along the lakeside this morning and take a leisurely walk along some sandbanks. We get a first glimpse of the autumn colours, which must be a beautiful albeit cold season.

Back at the camp we observe and assist in the process of making fresh butter and cheese. The first one involves two hours of constant stamping in a sack made of cow skin.Although it can be a tiring job, the whole family (and sometimes tourists) take part. The resulting cream, served with jam made from self-picked wild berries on pieces of dough, is delicious.

Play and dinner time

Two camels have joined the community today. They belong to the family but were rented out for a tourist camel tour along the lake.Looking at the green mountain scenery on this side of the lake, the camels somehow seem out of place. However, the other side of the lake is almost desert-like, creating a striking contrast.

Oogii 2 our knowledgle guide on the second half of the trip, our host "Butterweck" who's name I can't spell properly and Oogii 1 our fabulous driver.

In the morning we leave the Ger commune, which will also soon leave for the winter camp. After a three month summer holiday, school starts again in early September. Within a few hours, the entire camp will be dismantled, loaded onto trucks, and transported to the new site. Livestock will be guided on horseback and will arrive at the new location within a few days. Today, we see several of these trucks and cattle tracks.

We pitch our tents at Khar Nuur at 2600m in a hilly, deserted moonscape. There are no trees or bushes for miles, and the temperature is too cold for swimming. As we ran out of gas, we collect dried cow dung, which the nomads also use to heat their gers. It burns very well and for a long time.

Fortunately, the distance today is not too long with only 90km, so we reach our destination around lunchtime. Along the way, we see lots of herds of livestock on the move to the next camp and ground squirrels (sooooooooo cute, according to the ladies) and I finally get to take a picture.

At a large pasture, which benefits from the nearby river system, lives the Berkutschi Elk with his wife, two daughters, their husbands and several children. A picture of Elk is featured on the cover of a National Geographic magazine and in Frank Riedinger's book on Mongolian nomads.

The family is currently staying at their autumn camp, having moved in just two days ago. They will remain there until mid-October.

The pasture is bustling with activity, as it is home to numerous nomads, gers, houses, and thousands of livestock, including sheep, goats, cows, yaks, and horses.

We enjoy the beautiful sunset atmosphere. Unfortunately, the night is proving to be a nightmare. Throughout the night, the various dogs in the vicinity bark like mad, and in the few moments when they stop, the horse next to our tent whinnies or a cow farts loudly. As a result, it is impossible to get any sleep.

In the morning we drive across the pasture to some hills to meet Elk with his horse and eagle for a photo shooting. Fully dressed in traditional fur clothing and sitting on a 300-year-old saddle on his horse, he looks very impressive. Unfortunately, it is overcast and the landscape looks a bit dull, but I still get some nice shots with a quite different atmosphere than the shooting with Khairatkhan a few days ago.

Back at camp, we decide to head back to Ulgii this afternoon as another night without sleep doesn't sound promising. The entire team appears relieved.

For lunch, Elk invites us over. A goat is slaughtered in front of a yurt, and we know what that means. Indeed, a huge plate of meat and noodles is served, crowned by a sheep's head. Our host cuts small pieces of flesh from the head and offers them to us. Mel and Steffi politely decline. Normally, at least a trial is expected, so declining outright is considered impolite. However, Elk only smiles and continues. I suppose he's familiar with this reaction from other groups. It's not as easy for us Europeans. Then everyone helps themselves from the large plate, eating with their hands, which were washed before entering the yurt. Additionally, Airag (mare's milk) is provided. Despite my unpleasant reaction last time, I decide to give it another try, but only a small amount. A big failure I unfortunately discover later.

Oogii's approach to deal with his back problems. I'm not certain if it was truly beneficial in the end, but we all (including himself) had a lot of fun watching it.

The journey to Ulgii is a short 50km ride, and upon reaching Merei's home, everyone is delighted to have their first warm shower in eight days. However, I am unable to enjoy it as the effects of the Airag kick in. Will I never learn? Only in the late evening, after an empty stomach, do I start to feel better and finally take a late shower. What a wonderful feeling to crawl into a cosy bed and enjoy a quiet night.

For the next two days, we take it easy. Relax, do some souvenir shopping, and enjoy our time in a café. We also visit the black market and Mel gets a haircut.

It's time to say goodbye to Merie and Oogii 1. It isn't easy after travelling together for such a long time and it's quite emotional with big hugs. Oogii 1 needs to drive back the 1800km to UB, which will take 2-3 days.

Our two-hour flight to UB is on time and we land at 19:00 as planned. Khasha, Odmaa's brother, is already waiting for us and within 20 minutes of landing we are in the car on the way to the city, only to find ourselves stuck in a huge traffic jam. We decide to stop for dinner in the hope that the traffic will clear up afterwards, but it doesn't. We finally reach the Bayangol at around 23:00. At least our room this time is less smelly and the bed is heavenly comfortable.

Ulaanbartaar

Flight back from Ulgii to Ulaanbaartar

After a comfortable night, we drive to the Gangdan Monastery, the most important in Mongolia, to attend the morning ceremony at 09:00. The compound is enormous, with several old and new buildings, including an ATM. It is a somewhat peculiar ensemble. Upon entering the old main monastery, we find ourselves in front of a huge standing old bhudda, I estimate at least 20m high. We are speechless and honestly weren't expecting this.

The ceremony almost induces a trance as the monks chant mantras in Tibetan. Sometimes the chanting synchronises and is accompanied by drumming and trumpets.

After visiting the monastery, we do some shopping at the state department store. Of course including some bottles of Vodka.

In the afternoon, we attend a surprisingly good and professional folklore show, have dinner at a buffet restaurant where someone cooks your personal stir-fry based on your choice of ingredients and sauces, and finally go to the cinema. Unfortunately, the Mongolian movie we wanted to watch is not showing today, so we decide to watch Meg 2, which turns out to be a big mistake!

We have an early start today as our flight is scheduled for 09:00. Although we have had only positive experiences with the new airport so far, this morning we have to queue for almost 1.5 hours to check in, which is very tiring. Fortunately, security and customs are fast.

This time, we are flying on a modern 787-9 Dreamliner with comfortable seats, and the 9-hour flight back to Germany passes quickly.

Final Verdict

This is a difficult one this time. Embarking on an epic road trip through Mongolia proved to be an unforgettable journey filled with awe-inspiring landscapes, cultural immersion, and exhilarating adventures, from the Nadaam festival in Ulaanbaatar to the vast expanse of the Gobi Desert to the rolling grasslands in the centre and towering peaks of the Altai Mountains. While navigating rugged terrain and crossing remote landscapes, we encountered the warm hospitality of nomadic herders and eagle hunters. We shared meals and vodka, witnessed breathtaking sunsets painting the sky in hues of gold and crimson and camped under the starry Mongolian sky. During the trip, our team consisting of Odmaa, Merie, Oogii 1 and Oogii 2 became like a second family to us. We felt perfectly taken care of and had many memorable moments together.

On the other side, the road was often long and challenging, with never-ending bumps and curves, especially in the west. Several days without proper access to a toilet or shower might sound adventurous, but to be fair, this is not for everyone. Mel admits it was a bit too much for her this time. If this is not yours too, better stick to the Gobi and Central part of Mongolia, where the tourist infrastructure is better developed than in the western part.

As we said goodbye to Mongolia, we took with us memories of vast horizons and moments of complete freedom, knowing that this incredible road trip will always held a special place in our hearts.

Footnotes

Most pictures were taken with my Fuji XT5, some with the iPhone 14. For the aerial shots I used a DJI Mini 3

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FootNotes

Most pictures were taken with my Fuji XT5, some with the iPhone 14. For the aerial shots I used a DJI Mini 3

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