10%

Madeira - Island of Eternal Spring

18 days in August 2021

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

January 3^rd, 2022

Motivation

Well, again Covid-19. Holidays in Germany were somehow not really tempting for us in August, but options for more exotic places were rare. In the middle of the booking process for Namibia, our first choice, the Covid-19 figures started to skyrocket, resulting in local lockdowns and a 14-days quarantine restriction back in Germany. After some research, we finally opted for Madeira, which looked like a safe bet with very low Covid-19 figures for several months. Remembering great times on the island, which we both visited before (many years ago), we booked a flight, hotel and rental car and hoped for the best. Fortunately, it worked out.

Madeira Facts

Madeira is part of Portugal
Population: around 250,000
Size: 741 km², 57x22 km
Capital: Funchal (population 112,000)
Highest Mountain: Pico Ruivo (1,862m)
Main Language: Portugues, English works in many touristic places
Currency: EUR

There is plenty to see on the island, and the weather can vary from day to day and even in different sections of the island. Hefty rain in the North and whole-day sunshine on the far side of the mountains in the South is not uncommon. Therefore, it's best to have an idea list for each section and then to decide day by day - checking the weather forecast - where to go and what to do. The weather maps in meteoblue worked perfectly for this purpose, especially the once showing the hours of sunshine for all areas. As the North generally is much more cloudy, it's best to take any chance of good weather for a tour/hike in that area.

Due to that, I've decided to organise this travel story not day by day but in regions we explored often several times on different days, depending on the weather. So have a look and get an impression of each region. Some personal highlights below:

South: Funchal - The Capital
Cable Car and Tropical Garden Monte Palace
Strolling along Rue de Santa Maria (painted doors)
Hike from Funchal to Câmara de Lobos
South East
Hike Ponta do Sāo Lourenço
South West
Ponta do Sol - Poncha at the beach bar, sunset atmosphere
Sunset and dinner Madalena Do Mar (A Taberna)
Hike Levada Nova / Levada De Moinho
North
Rockpools in Porto Moniz
Hike: From Lamaceiros into the valley of Ribeira de Janela
Old coastal road from Seixal to Porto Moniz (where accessible)
Miradouro da Beira da Quinta
Hike: Larano To Boca Do Risco
Central
Hike: Ribeiros Frio to the Bālcones
Hike: Around Fanal (especially when it's misty)
Hike: Rabacal - Risco - 25 Fuentes (but not in peak season!)
Sunrise Pico Do Arieiro

Landing on Madeira

Landing on Madeira is a quite special experience - and not only because of the great scenery. The airport used to be one of the most challenging in the world due to strong winds and the short runway. At least the latter changed around 2000 when the runway was extended using 180 cement pillars each up to 70m high. The space below is shared by a small marina, a go-cart race track, several sport areas and a huge parking lot, which creates a very strange feeling, knowing that every moment a huge airplane might just land or take off above your head.

Strong winds are still a problem, and pilots need to have a special license and training to land on the island. But even then it's not uncommon that planes have to land on Porto Santo instead, the small sister island of Madeira.

A few words about car rental and driving

Having booked hotel and flight, looking at the car rental options next gave me a nasty shock. Rental prices were skyrocketing for August, obviously due to reduced fleeds during peak Corona times and the strong demand afterwards. I checked all the typical price comparison sites, but at the end still paid 1,700 € for an automatic compact (for 18 days). Ridiculous and several times higher than usual. Nevertheless, we agreed that it was still the best option for us.

There is so much to discover and plenty of places on the way that spontaneously make you want to stop. Often, the side roads or old main roads, now replaced by a highway, are the most scenic ones. We drove more than 1,700 km, covering all parts of the islands at least once.
If you are not much used to driving, Madeira can be challenging, with many steep and narrow roads. Madeira has some of the steepest roads I've ever seen in the world, and the pictures below not even come close to how steep it felt in reality. Even for skilled drivers, I recommend an automatic car, which makes it much more convenient and relaxing navigating the island. Definitely worth the extra bucks if you do not want to become best friends with your clutch and handbrake during the trip.
We booked with Madeira rent (via check24.de) and I can highly recommend them. Good car, fast and totally uncomplicated at the counter and return at the parking lot. They just ask you to make a movie with your smartphone around the car before and after the trip for damage record. Simple and without paper work.

Access road to the Miradouro do Cabo de Larano hike

A few words about lodging

As a tourist destination, Madeira offers a wide range of accommodation all around the island, although the hotspots are around Funchal and Caniço, the sunny part of the island. We decided to stay in just one location on the island, knowing that nowadays with all the roadbuilding in the past two decades (with all the tunnels, Madeira feels like a Swiss cheese), it's easy to reach any spot on the island within one to 1.5 hours. Caniço is strategically a good base, with plenty of nice Restaurants around and fast access to the highway. During my research I stumbled over Hotel Galosol. Good reviews and Yoga and diving offers on site convinced us, which at the end we never used. Even the attached and pretty lido which could be accessed via an elevator we used only two times for a swim in the sea. The midsize hotel is very clean and well organised, with friendly and often German-speaking staff. We had a nice seaview room in the main building, and parking was no problem. The interior design is maybe a bit outdated and not so fancy, but this depends on one's own taste. All in all, I can recommend the hotel.

Nevertheless, next time I would split up 14 days into staying in two hotels. Maybe again one week in Caniço and the second week in Ponta do Sol or Porto Moniz. One as the base to explore the eastern half, and the other the western half on the island. We visited some friends who had stayed already several times on the island and the last times always in Ponta do Sol in the Hotel Estalagem da Ponta do Sol. I'm bound to say I understand them. I really loved the hotel. Stylish with fantastic views over Ponta do Sol and the sea. Would definitely try it next time.

A few words about food and drinks

I honestly can't say that I rate Portuguese as my favourite food, but Caniço and Funchal offer plenty of different choices for all tastes. Our favourite restaurant was the Snack Bar Mare. Maybe not the most charming option from outside, but the food was always fantastic, no matter if fish, pepper steak or vegetarian. Everything was freshly prepared and tasty. The prices were reasonable and the extremely charming Russian owners made the whole place feeling like a huge family. We went there several times during our stay and started to book ahead, as it was always full in the evening, with many familiar people. So we were not the only ones that liked the place. A highlight is Friday, when a friend of the family plays the violin with songs from ACDC over Beatles to Mozart. We later visited one of his concerts in Funchal in the garden of the English church, as he was stunningly good.

Besides all kind of seafood, some very typical things to be tried in Madeira are Bolo do Caco, a sweet potato bread with plenty of garlic butter, and Poncha, a very tasty and strong drink made from Aquardente, honey and lemon or orange. Loved it.

Madeira Wine

The most famous times of this fortified wine from the island are probably over, as the general taste has changed. But the 18th century was the "golden age" for Madeira Wine, especially as the American colonies were enthusiastic customers. It was even used to toast the Declaration of Independence. Nowadays, the main customers are the Benelux countries, and it's mostly used for cooking purposes.

Due to its processing, the wine can get very old, and some older bottles can be still bought on the island, of course with a hefty price tag.

Funchal - The Capital

By far the biggest city on Madeira, it’s impressive to see how the houses starting from sea level stretch out all the way up to Monte at 800 m above sea level.

As the weather looked great, we took a cable car ride to Monte to visit the Tropical Garden Monte Palace. Take your time, there is much to explore in the garden, as every corner brings some new impressions.

In the western part of the garden, the wall offers a great view onto the road used to bring tourists down from Monte towards Funchal by basked sledges (2 km, 10 min). In former times. the noble society preferred to stay in the more pleasant temperature up the hill from Funchal and used the basked sledges for quick transport: they were the taxis at this time period. Next to the starting point, there is the famous pilgrimage church Nossa Senhora do Monte.

From Monte Palace, another cable car brought us down to the Botanical Garden. Vegetation in the valley was severely damaged during a fire some years ago and is now slowly recovering.

Coming from the Tropical Garden Monte Palace, we first felt disappointed entering the Botanical Garden. The area felt less cared of and less spectacular. Only at a second glance, the garden reveals its treasure, the diversity of plants. Especially the cactus garden was impressive. Nevertheless, if you intend to visit only one, Monte Palace is the place to go.

Street scenes in Funchal.

The Rue de Santa Maria is famous for the painted doors. Great fun to stroll along on the mission to find your favourite one.

The main market in Funchal is considered as a must-see, according to many guidebooks, but honestly we found it not very impressive. Be aware that the prices at the well stocked fruit booths on ground level are very steeeeeeeep.

Hike: Funchal to Câmara de Lobos along the coast

GPS Track on Komoot

This is quite a diverse hike of 10 km (return by taxi), first following the sea promenade of the city towards the huge hotel area, then going down and entering the beach area via a tunnel, walking along the beach (good point for a refreshing drink at one of the beach bars), and later some wild coastal way, finally approaching the lovely fishing village of Câmara de Lobos. As it can get very hot, best done in the morning or afternoon.

Southeast

The whale museum in Canical is a worthwhile stop to learn more about the whale hunting times on Madeira, and whales in general. Good for spending one or two hours, especially if the weather is not with you.

Santos da Serra is considered as one of the freshest villages on the island, often covered in mist, and indeed, during our short visit it fully lived up to its reputation. Not too much to see, but if you have time and want to enjoy the fresh climate for a while, a stroll in the Parque Quinta do Santo is nice.

Machico is the second biggest city on the island, but in my opinion only worth to visit if you have plenty of time or you are longing for a nice sand beach - which is rare on Madeira. The golden sand was imported from Morrocco. Of course, don’t expect to be alone, especially in summer time. Arriving around 10 am, the plenty of parking options along the beach were already full.

Hike: Ponta do São Lourenço

GPS Track on Komoot

Definitely the highlight in the southeast, this hike is no secret. Expect to share it with plenty others. Nevertheless, the scenery is stunning and it’s amazing how fast the weather can change in this exposed corner. The last part up the hill is a bit demanding, but worth the scenery that awaits you. When I was there in March during my first visit, the landscape was covered in green, but now in August it was brown and bare.

Another road on this peninsula brings you to the Ponta do Rosto viewpoint, which is especially nice in the late afternoon light.

Don’t forget to have a look back towards the west on the way to the Ponta do Rosto for more great scenery.

Southwest

We passed Ponta do Sol several times during our stay, as it’s centrally located on the way to the southwest coast, but also on the main road to the northern part of the island. It’s in a pretty location and has one of the few sandy beaches on the island. We could really imagine staying there next time.

Extremely busy when we arrived - no chance to get a proper parking space, so we only had a glimpse down Fajã dos Padres. Maybe next time, as it looked quite tempting.

Wow - a lot has changed since my last visit on Cabo Girāo. The whole place has seen quite some commercialisation, including a glass walkway, shops, cafés and entrance fee (however not when we were there, because of Corona). It offers a nice view towards Funchal, but there are many other equally stunning viewpoints on the islands.

Just half a hour inland from Funchal, on a dead end road, lies Curral das Freiras in a very scenic setting, surrounded by mountains. It’s best seen from the viewpoint Eira do Serrado. There is a popular hiking trail leading down to the village, but this was not our plan for the day.

A Taberna in Magdalena do Mar was one of our favourite restaurants, not only for the tasty food, but especially for the pleasant atmosphere on the beach. Especially nice for late afternoon.

Not far from Ponta do Sol on the old main road lies the Cascade dos Anjos. Considering the long queue of people waiting for a shower picture definitely "instagramable".

Hike: Levada Nova / Levada de Moinho roundtrip

GPS Track on Komoot

This hike (3 h, 8 km) is one of the few roundtrip levada walks on the island. Easy walk for people that don’t suffer from vertigo. Great views and a beautiful waterfall.

Hike: Levada do Norte

GPS track on Komoot

Already blessed by some great hikes on the island, we found the first part of this one (5 h, 13 km) rather boring, but really enjoyed the second part. Therefore, next time we would start the hike from waypoint 4 on the GPS track. The car can be parked there right along the road.

The North

Sao Vincente is a neat little village at the end of the VE4, which is crossing the island from South to North. The view from the Capelinha de Nossa Senhora de Fátima is especially rewarding.

Northeast from São Vincente

Santana is especially known for some nice examples of the traditional building in the region (Casas topics de Santana). But don’t expect to be alone, especially in summertime. Very touristy.

Madeira is gifted with hundreds of fantastic viewpoints, but this was one of my favourites, Beira da Quinta.

Northwest from São Vincente

The old main road from São Vincente to Porto Moniz is nothing less than breathtaking. Unfortunately, most parts are nowadays closed and not accessible anymore due to landslides and rockfall. Whenever possible, we took the exit from the new main road to the old road. But beware of rockfalls. The access is only possible on the way towards Porto Moniz, not on the way back.

Seixal offers a black sand beach in a very picturesque setting. But also this is no secret. We only wanted to have a short look, but the narrow road down to the beach was full of parked cars, leaving only room for one lane, which caused a chaotic traffic nightmare. We were glad when - after 45 minutes - we managed our way through and out again.

Praia da Ribeira da Janela is definitely worth a stop to visit the beach with the strange rock formations offshore.

Porto Moniz is especially famous for its huge rock pools that allow swimming despite strong waves and rough shores. We didn’t go for a swim, as just watching was already fun enough.

The west coast of Madeira is the least developed part of the island. The road is nice but very winding, so take your time. A worthwhile stop in the area is the Miradouro do Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz. We took the cable car down. A short but spectacular ride. The strip of flat land between the sea and the cliff is used for farming. It's a nice stroll through the fields. Although there are no facilities, it was quite busy and we had to wait for about half an hour to catch a cabin up.

The lighthouse of Ponta do Pargo is the most western tip of the island. It's OK for a stop but I liked the close-by Miradouro do Fio more, especially as the "O Fio" Tea House makes for a perfect break.

Taking the old winding main road ER101 instead of the faster VE3 not only makes for a more scenic and relaxed trip, it took us also by coincidence to a very special viewpoint. The Miradouro Lombada dos Marinheiros is something to remember. Less for the nice view, but especially for the sheer amount of unbelievably curious and cheeky lizards around. For moments, it felt like the whole ground was moving. Lying down with some breadcrumbs in my hand, it took not long until they started to climb all over me, vanished under my shirt, nibbled on my earlobes, etc. Totally without fear. I've never witness something like this before. Incredible.

Hike: Larano to Boca do Risco rountrip

GPS Track on Komoot

Without a doubt, this hike (4 h, 11 km) in the northeast was our favourite hike on the island. The scenery along the cliff path is breathtaking, and the way back leads through a beautiful fern forest - if you follow the GPS track instead of the parallel running main paths. Even in August, we met only a few people. Start early to have the best light.

Hike: To the source of Levada do Castelejo

GPX Track on Komoot

A rather easy hike (4 h, 12 km) starting from Katrepa's Bar, close to Porto da Cruz with nice views. It's mostly in the shade, so good on a hot day. Not very busy.

Hike: From Lamaceiros into the Valley of Ribeira de Janela

GPS Track on Komoot

A spectacular hike (4.5 h, 12 km) close to Porto Moniz, but definitely nothing for people that suffer from vertigo. Have your torch ready, as you have to pass several levada tunnels.

The Centre

The center in the western part of the island is covered by an extensive plateau, called Paul da Serra, which is reaching up to 1640m. Often covered in clouds and getting a lot of rain, it’s the water source of many levadas bringing the water down to the coastal area.

Hike: Bica da Cana to the Pináculo

GPS Track on Komoot

A less popular hike that offers some beautiful views, reminding me a bit of Kauai Island, Hawaii. The path runs under some waterfalls. Good fun. An umbrella or rain jacket is helpful for this sections, otherwise expect to get quite wet. I would go the same way back. The Rother guide showed a round trip, but finding the turnoff was difficult, an almost hidden path which we missed three times. We met another couple also searching for the right path, which became more and more overgrown, then vanished. It took us a while, stumbling through thorny bushes and cursing the guidebook until we finally found another path leading back to the parking lot.

Hike: Fanal - mystical Laurel Forest

GPS Track on Komoot

When it's misty on the high plateau, that's the place to go. The area with its old trees offers a very moody atmosphere.

Hike: Rabacal - Risco Waterfall and the 25 Fuentes

GPX Track on Komoot

One of the most popular hiking areas in Madeira. Knowing this, we started very early (about 1 h drive from Funchal), arriving around 8:30 hrs. The parking lot was almost empty at that time. There is a shuttle connecting the parking area with the starting point of the hike, but we preferred to walk down (0.5 h), as the shuttle only runs from 9:00 hrs on. The scenery is beautiful and very lush, no wonder, as the area is often covered by clouds and sees quite some rain. We first took the detour to the Risco Waterfall, then to the 25 Fuentes. Arriving there, it was already busy - but nothing compared to the way back. We had to pass hundreds of people on their way to the fuentes on the narrow path, resulting in quite some waiting to constantly giving way. No fun. Back at the parking, the area was completely full with hundreds of cars. In my opinion, there are so many great and less overrun hikes on the island, I would definitely avoid this one in the peak season next time.

Hike: Encumeada - Levada do Norte

GPS Track on Komoot

An easy and worthwhile hike (2 h, 5.2 km) starting from the Miradouro da Encumeada. Several other hikes also start from this area.

Hike: Pico Ruivo

GPS Track on Komoot

Visiting Madeira without a short hike to the top of its highest mountain (1,861m), no way! It's only 5.6 km return on an excellent path, but somehow steeper than expected. We went there in the afternoon for the sunset.

Pico do Areeiro

Don't miss the sunrise from the top of Pico Areeiro. It's a 45 min drive from Funchal. I expected it to be busy, but was surprised HOW busy it was early in the morning. Nevertheless, a great atmosphere!

Ribeiro Frio is a popular spot in lush scenery with a trout farm and some restaurants. It's also the starting point for different hikes.

Hike: Ribeiro Frio to the Bãlcones

GPS Track on Komoot

This is a short and very popular hike (1 h, 3 km return), so start early in the peak season. The viewpoint at the end feels like being in a natural Amphitheater. Don't miss it.

Final Verdict

For me Madeira is one of the most beautiful island in the world. It’s small enough to reach any point of the island within 1.5hours and still it has myriads of diverse things to explore. It’s a hikers paradise, the temperature is just perfect, the scenery lush and the paths are well marked. I will be back, no more to say!

Button Label

Story Told With

Start publishing stories like this