10%

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

30 days exploring "The Stans" 09/2019 (Part 1/2)

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

November 8^th, 2020

Motivation

Central Asia was a deep black spot on my travel world map, so when a friend came up with the idea for a trip, talking enthusiastically about a documentation she has watched about the Pamir Highway, my and my girlfriend's interest was awakened. A trip on the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan became one of our most memorable trips ever, and we expected a similar experience in the Pamir.

I started my research, read some travelogues and travel itineraries from tour providers and created our own itinerary. Due to language reasons (very limited English spoken in the area) and the limited time, it became clear that a private tour would be the best option for the three of us. With Kalpak Travel I found a specialised tour operator for the region, and together with the owner Luca Lässer we optimised the itinerary based on his suggestions, e.g. using a cheaper flight and including Kazakhstan with Nur Sultan and Almaty to the itinerary. A great hint from him. Spoiler alarm: the tour was also perfectly organised and there was nothing to complain. So, highly recommended!

Itinerary

Nur Sultan (1N) - City tour
Almaty (1N) - City tour
Saty (1N) - Charyn Canyon
Jyrgalan (1N) - Kandy Lake
Karakol (1N) - Hike Ak-Suu
Jeti-Öguz (1N) - Hike
Kotschkor (1N) - Skazka Canyon
Songköl (1N) - Exploring the lake
Kazarman (1N) - Long drive
Osh (1N) - City tour
Peak Lenin (2N) - Long day hike
Tajikistan/Uzbekistan (19N) - See part 2

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan Facts:

Population: around 18.5 million
Size: 2.7 million sqkm
Capital: Nur Sultan (formerly Astana)
Biggest City: Almaty, around 2 million people
Main Languages: Kazakh, Russian
Foreign Languages: difficult with western languages, English if you are lucky in more touristic places.
Currency: Tenge (KZT), 1 EUR = 457 KZT (05/2020)

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Blown Away in Nur-Sultan

The capital of Kazakhstan was renamed from "Astana" to "Nur-Sultan" as of 2019 to pay tribute to the former President Nur-Sultan Nasarbajew, who resigned in 2018. Nur-Sultan is located in the middle of nowhere, in the centre of Kazakhstan, well away from all borders.

Together with our city guide Sabina we explore the city. We are not only blown away by the modern architecture we find but also by the strong winds we have to face. In the middle of nowhere, space is not an issue - this is reflected in the whole city layout. The distances between the attractions are huge, everything is spaciously built.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan hosted the EXPO in 2017. The most remarkable building at the compound is the Nur alemi pavilion a sphere which hosts an exhibition about future energy. We are fascinated by the architecture, and also the exhibition is surprisingly interesting, so we spend several hours inside. Highly recommended!

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

OK, ok we don't take it too seriously...

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The sphere is also an attraction for wedding pictures. The equipment of the photographers is top notch. To our surprise, all couples we see don't look too happy together. We learn from Sabrina that Kazakhs usually never smile on photos, as it's highly important to make a serious impression.

Well, all couples did a great job, then.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

To our surprise, Luca and his wife Aijan from Kalpak Travel are also in the city, and we meet for dinner in a fancy restaurant (Xalva) where we try different local dishes. Yummy!!!

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Before sunrise, I take some pictures in the blue hour. The Baiterek Tower is the most iconic landmark in the city: based on a folktale, it's symbolising a mythical tree of life and an egg laid by a magic bird of happiness. Unfortunately, there is no light show in the morning, as it is in the evening. I should have thought about this before, so better to go for the blue hour after sunset.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Almaty - Metting the Team

Our flight with Air Astana from Nur-Sultan to Almaty is punctual and without problems. At the Airport in Almaty our new guide Diana and driver Damir are already waiting for us. They are both from Kyrgyzstan. Diana worked for several years in Austria and speaks excellent German.

As it's still early, we use the day to explore Almaty.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Almaty

Our hotel Kazzhole is conveniently located in the city centre. We leave our luggage and then start exploring the city, mostly on foot. Almaty is a surprisingly green city, most streets are lined by trees. Walking around here is much more pleasant than in artificial Nur-Sultan. Nur-Sultan is better for working, but Almaty for living, we quickly learn.

In the Panfilov Park, we visit the colourful Russian-Orthodox Zenkov's Cathedral which is opulently decorated inside.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Next we go to the Zelenyy Bazar, also called the Green Bazar. The stalls full of dried fruits, nuts, spices and accurately stacked fresh fruits are nice to watch. By the way, the region is thought to be the apple's ancestral home and accordingly, apples are the dominant fruit here beside the melons the area is also famous for.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

In the evening, we take the gondola to the top of Kok Tobe, which not only offers a stunning view over the city but also a well-visited entertainment park, including a Ferris wheel, hall of mirrors, bull-ride and an upside down house, which is great for funny pictures.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Charyn Canyon - The Small Grand Canyon

Today, we get a glimpse of the wide and empty landscapes in Kazakhstan. For hours, we drive along a boring, never changing landscape, but then suddenly....

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

...the road becomes mountainous, curvy and steep. Shortly after, we reach the Charyn Canyon, what a scenery! It's surprisingly busy with local tourists, which obviously use the Sunday for a day trip from Almaty.

First, we walk along the rim of the Canyon, then we descend. The Canyon is more than 150 km long, but here, 2.5 km are open for public access. The sun burns from the blue sky, which makes the green patch along the Charyn River at the end of the dry walking path feel like the Garden of Eden.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Garden of Eden

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Our final goal for today is the village of Saty. In contrast to this morning, the scenery on the way is much more diverse. We drive through grain fields, steppe, desert-like landscapes and green hills and past several flocks of cows, sheep and horses. The mountains along the Kazakh-Kyrgyz border escort us all the time in the background.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Finally, we arrive in the small village of Saty, where we stay in a homestay run by a lovely family. For some time now, some families in the village participated in a program run by a volunteer organisation to learn how to host tourists.

The family seems to have a good life here. They have four children, the house looks nice and tidy (good windows, good heating, household appliances from Bosch :-) The village is self-sustaining. All bigger villages in the area have their own school and hospital, and only for exceptional purchases a four hour drive to Almaty is necessary.

We feel very welcome. We have delicious dinner together with the family, and our cups of tea never run empty. As the baby does not behave on daddy's lap, it is relegated from the table after a while. Before it vanishes behind the next corner it looks back to us with an impish grin.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Lake Kaindy

The next morning, we drive on a bad road for one hour to Lake Kaindy. After a landslide, the lake flooded a section of fir tree forest. Whereas the trees above the water look dead and bare, the section below the water still has the green branches. It almost appears that the trees grow further under the turquoise water, which creates a kinda enchanted atmosphere. A beautiful area which we enjoy exploring before we make our way towards Kyrgyzstan.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan Facts

Population: around 6.4 million
Size: 200.000 sqkm
Capital: Bishkek
Main Languages: Kyrgyz, Russian
Foreign Languages: difficult with western languages, English if you are lucky in more touristic places.
Currency: Som (KGS), 1 EUR = 86.6 KGS (05/2020)

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The boarder crossing is straightforward. We take our luggage, then a passport control, face control and luggage check follow (the car is checked in the meanwhile, including from below with mirrors). Then we walk over to the Kyrgyz border - and the same procedure again. Diana and Damir are happy that they are back home.

On the way, we stop to take some pictures of a flock of sheep and three shepherds on their horses. One of the shepherds comes over, I ask for a picture of him and three minutes later after an almost order-like gesture from him - "Dawei, Dawei" - I sit on his horse proud like John Wayne. A bit unexpected but a nice encounter.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The road is in parts really bad, and looking at some other vehicles we see on the way we are glad that we have a comfortable car and good driver to master even the most tricky sections - except of one enormous speed bump which Damir misses, causing us ramping up and flying like in a Hollywood action movie. Fortunately, beside a damaged bumper and light, no one gets seriously hurt.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

I believe the relation between Kyrgyz men and horses is best described with the relation between German men and cars.

After a long day, we arrive in Jyrgalan, where we buy - based on Damir's suggestion - 0.5l of excellent vodka, for 2.5€. Nastrovje!!!

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The next day, we go for a five-hours hike in the Ak-Suu Nationalpark. We start at 1,900m, along a path used by the local shepherds to reach the summer pastures. At 2,500m, we cross the Kara Beltek Pass, then going down towards Karakol, where Damir is already waiting for us with the car. On the way, we see a golden horse, a colour I have never seen on a horse before. Beautiful.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Karakol

In Karakol, we check in in our Hotel Amir before we explore the city together with Diana, who lives here and likes the city very much. And indeed, Karakol is a nice and relaxed city (80,000 residents), surrounded by beautiful landscape. In the summer, it's a favourite hiking area for foreign tourists, and in winter, a ski area mainly for locals and Russians. By the way, the concept of hiking is for most Kyrgyz people a complete mystery. Why walking, if you can take the horse or a jeep?

We visit a wooden Russian-Orthodox church, a mosque which looks more like an Asian temple (no picture), and otherwise just stroll around a bit.

Tonight, dinner is with an Uigure family. The Uigures around Karakol fled already a long time ago from China. We try different delicious Uigure foods, until we are are completely full.

Today, we learn that there is no public health insurance in Kyrgyzstan. If someone gets ill and needs treatment, family and friends collect the required money for the treatment. As the medical infrastructure is not good, costly and complicated therapies e.g. for cancer are not common. In this case, Kyrgyz people would accept their illness and fate, we are told by Diana.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Jety Oguz

Not far from Karakol lies this very beautiful valley, well known since the USSR times for its sanatorium and hot springs, and therefore also a local favourite. Even Yuri Gagarin was here to revitalise after his space flight, being the first men in space.

Today, we hike beautiful and not to strenuous five hours from Svetlaya Polyana over a pass (2,730m) to the Kok Jaik valley to our overnight yurts. The scenery is very idyllic, right next to a river.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

This is our first night in a yurt. Yurts are still quite common and can be seen often on the summer pastures. We are surprised how warm the tiny oven inside heats up the yurt. We feel like in a sauna and have to open the door to let some fresh cool air in, before we collapse.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The next morning, on our drive back, we stop at the the famous rock formations seven bulls and broken heart. The seven bulls glow red in the early morning light, what a view! The broken heart nevertheless will get better light in the afternoon. Well, you can't have your cake and eat it.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Shazka Canyon

We arrive at around 10 o'clock, and the light is still good for some photos. The area here looks like a painted desert, quite different to the surrounding scenery.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Close by, an eagle show has been organised for us, as part of the tour. The master with his apprentice, two female golden eagles and a rabbit arrive by car.

We learn that a Kyrgyz men is only complete with an eagle, a horse, a wife and a yurt. The question remains if in this sequence. We learn quite a lot, and of course an eagle hunt is part of it. Fortunately, it was a quick end for the unfortunate rabbit. All in all, far more informative and less touristy than expected.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Right opposite, at the junction to the canyon, is a beautiful wild beach, inviting for a swim in the clear sparkling waters of the Issyk Kul lake. Very refreshing after the dusty, dry canyon.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Yurt Village

Today is very busy. We arrive in the village Kyzyl Tuu, where all yurts in Kyrgyzstan are produced. A classical yurt in typical size cost around 3,500 US$, and everything is completely handmade. We are shown how to build up a yurt, and of course we energetically support. It's suprisingly easy and straightforward. Our tiny test yurt is up in not more than 40 minutes. The best teams build up a big yurt in less than 30 minutes. Amazing! By the way, the yellow symbol in the Kyrgyz national flag symbolises the round wooden top section of a yurt. A perfect question for a pub quiz.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Felt Cooperative in Koschkor

We spend the night in Koschkor. The first time in Kyrgyzstan we are not the only tourists in our accomodation and have to share the facilities with a German tour group.

The morning starts with a visit of the Altyn Kol Handicraft NGO, a women felt cooperative. We learn how felt is produced and help to roll the wool with our feet rhythmically, following Kyrgyz folk music. A lot of fun, not only for us, how the smiles and giggling of the ladies reveal. Big carpets need to be treated more than two hours this way, until they get firm enough. We can see the result already after 15 minutes. Of course, the final products can be bought here for very reasonable prices, especially considering the full handmade process.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Songköl

After the visit of the felt cooperative, we start our three-hours drive on a dirt track to Songköl. The pass at 3,400m offers great views. The weather is changing minute-wise, from sunny to cloudy to rain, even hailstorm and back. It’s windy and freezing cold, but the dromedaries we pass on the way seem to be unimpressed by the weather.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

We decent to 3,000m and drive around half the lake to our Yurd camp, which is 3 km from the lake shore. The scenery is beautiful. Sun and clouds draw a new picture from one second to another. Horses freely roam the area.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

After lunch and a rest, I take a horse and guide to the lake. I’ve ridden a horse only two or three times in my life. To my surprise, it works very well, and after 15 minutes, I fee like John Wayne in Kyrgyzstan.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Before dinner, we try fermented mare milk. Interesting, a bit fizzy and smokey. Not as bad as expected, but also not good enough to drink a full cup. At dinner, I start feeling the elevation and skip the main dish, but the blue hour scenery afterward is asking for another photo session, and the action let me even forget about my condition.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The night is bitterly cold. After our previous sauna experience with the oven, we decided to try it with many thick blankets instead. Not bad, except the very moment we need to get out of the bed for the morning toilet. The grass is iced, the sanitary equipment is frozen, an icicle hangs on the water tap, and the thermometer shows10 degrees Celsius below zero. Brrrrrr! Fortunately, the dining yurt is heated, so we can warm up.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Horses warming up in the morning sun.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

This night, we even got a bit of snow on the hills.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Songköl to Kazarman and further to Osh

A long drive over the two passes Moldo Ashuu (3,400m) and Koo Ashuusuu (2,800m) brings us to Kazarman today. The village is just on the way to Osh and has nothing special to offer. Our guesthouse is basic but clean and seems to be popular, as more groups arrive. The luxurious shower cabin in the bath offers countless massage functions and would also perfectly fit into a five-star hotel.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The drive on a dirt track leads through a barren but fascinating landscape, and we are quite surprised when we meet two tourists with an old Lada they've rented. Very brave. At least the hirer gave them an extra spare tire.

On the way, the road is blocked by a broken-down truck. Damir don't want to wait, asked us to get out of the car and then in a hair-raising manoeuvre overtakes the truck just centimetres away from the yawning abyss. We hold our breath and cheer when he finally manages it.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Before we arrive in Osh, we stop in Uzgen to visit the Uzgen Minaret and 12th century Karakharid mausoleum.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Osh

Finally, we reach Osh, where we check in in our hotel Sunrise. The city has an almost Mediterranean flair.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

In the afternoon, we visit the the Satylganow-Park, a place which seems to be also very popular for wedding photos and parties.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The next day, we start with Suleiman Too, a popular place of pilgrimage. The hill on which this UNESCO site sits offers a nice view over the city.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Three Kyrgyz Cultural World Heritage listed specialities are the yurt, the Shydrak (a felt carpet) and Kök-boru, an intensive and popular horse game played by two teams with the objective of throwing the corpse of a salt-filled goad into the opponents cavern. Fascinating to watch, which we unfortunately couldn't do live. Instead, we watch the popular movie "Kök-boru" in a cinema.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The Bazaar is the most atmospheric we have been so far on the trip. We buy some dry fruits and different nuts. Unfortunately, our time today is limited.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

We also visit a workshop for stoves which are used to prepare bread.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Well, the customers are not far away and we can see how such an oven is used to bake the bread. Yummy!

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

After plenty of local food during the last weeks, we enjoy something else this time: pizza!

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

On the way to Peak Lenin

In the afternoon, we make our way to our Yurt Camp close to the base of Peak Lenin. The mountain range welcomes us with a majestic purplish sunset look. It seems to take ages until we reach the camp in the night on a more or less existing track.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Peak Lenin is the second highest in Kyrgyzstan with 7,200m. It’s said to be the easiest 7,000m peak in the world. No climbing required. "Just walking up". Nevertheless, avalanches are a severe threat. One of the most tragic accidents in climbing history with 40 deaths occurred here.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Our plan is to hike to the "Travellers Pass" at 4,150m. Unfortunately, the weather is not with us. It’s cold, cloudy and even starts to snow. The Peak is completely covered in clouds. We pass the Base Camp on the way, which is deserted. The climbing season is already over. Although the overall ascent is only around 500m, together with the weather condition it sucks the energy out of our bodies. On the pass, we only see the base of the giant and return a bit frustrated. Reaching our yurt after 24 km return, I just drop into my bed. The battery is empty.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Heating up after a long cold hike.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

The next morning greets us with wonderful sunshine and a perfect view of the peak. Holy cow, the pass we reached yesterday looks like a tiny hill, with the white giant towering behind it. Respect to everyone who made it to the top.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

We say farewell to Diana and Damir and cross the border of Kyrgyzstan to the no man's lands, were Mohammed and Sharif, our new guide/driver tandem for the next 14 days in Tajikistan, are already waiting for us.

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - Pamir Highway and More

Read on part two: Tajikistan and Uzbekistan - Pamir Highway and More or watch before the movie for a video summary of our Pamir Highway trip.

© 2026 Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

Story Told With

Start publishing stories like this

Loading, please hold on.