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Japan - Tokyo to Kanazawa

Part 1 - Four weeks traveling through Japan and Taiwan, Oct./Nov. 2025

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

April 25^th, 2026

Welcome

This travel story is separated in three parts, use the links below to the other parts.

--> This is Part 1:Japan - Tokyo to Kanazawa

--> Go to Part 2:Japan - Kyoto to Kagoshima

--> Go to Part 3:Taiwan

Motivation - Why to Go?

My first encounter with Japan was almost twenty years ago – not as a wide-eyed traveller, but on a tightly scheduled business trip. Between meetings, train platforms and hotel lobbies, I caught only brief, tantalising glimpses of a world that felt quietly complex, deeply rooted in tradition and at the same time astonishingly modern. Even back then, I knew one thing for certain: I would have to come back. Properly. I just never imagined it would take me two decades.

Returning to Japan today feels like opening a familiar book and discovering that half of the chapters have been rewritten. The country has changed – and so has the way we travel. The yen has fallen dramatically, turning what was once a rather expensive dream destination into one that is suddenly within much easier reach. For travellers like me, that is a rare and welcome shift.

But every advantage comes with its shadow. Japan is no longer a well-kept secret. Visitor numbers have exploded, and nowhere is this more visible than in places such as Kyoto, where narrow streets and temple paths now regularly disappear beneath waves of tour groups and smartphone screens. The quiet, contemplative Japan I remember glimpsing between appointments now often competes with queues, timed entry slots and packed trains.

And yet – despite the crowds, despite the warnings, despite knowing exactly what awaits me in the most famous hotspots – my curiosity is still stronger. Stronger than my desire for empty streets and even stronger than my instinct to avoid anything labelled “overtourism”.

Climate and best travel time

Japan is a year-round destination shaped by strikingly different seasons, stretching from the snowy landscapes of Hokkaido in the north to the subtropical islands of Okinawa in the south. Most of the country has a temperate climate with four clearly defined seasons, including a humid rainy season in early summer and a typhoon period in late summer and early autumn. For travellers who want to experience Japan at its most comfortable and photogenic, spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November) offer the best balance of mild temperatures, clear light and seasonal highlights such as cherry blossoms and vibrant autumn foliage. These periods are ideal for both city exploration and outdoor travel, while avoiding the intense heat and humidity of midsummer and the harsh winter conditions found in the far north. As cherry blossoms is absolutely peak season, we decide to visit at the autumn foliage season.

Facts and Figures

Size: ~377,915 sq km (Japan consists of thousands of islands, with Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu and Shikoku making up most of the land)

Population: ~123.7 million (2023 est.)

Capital & Largest City: Tokyo (metro area ~40+ million)

Ethnic Groups: Japanese ~97–98%, small minorities including Chinese, Korean, Ryukyuan and Ainu

Languages: Japanese

Currency: Japanese Yen (¥, JPY)

Fun Fact: Japan is made up of over 6,000 islands, and Mount Fuji—an iconic symbol—is the country’s highest peak at 3,776 m.

Itinerary

Day 1-4: Tokyo - H: Sotetsu Fresa Inn Akasaka
Day 5: Nikko - H: Nikko Stay House Arai
Day 6: Kamakura - H: JR-East Hotel Mets Kamakura Ofuna
Day 7: Ito - Izu Peninsula - H: JoyInn
Day 8-9: Shimoda - Izu Peninsula - H: Guesthouse All You Need Surf&Chill
Day 10: Kawaguchiko (Mt. Fuji) - H: Megu Fuji 2021
Day 11: Magome - H: Magome Chaya
Day 12-13 Takayama - H: KAjette
Day 14 Kanazawa - H: Tokyu Stay

Day 15-21 Kyoto - H: Omo 5 Sanjo
Day 22-23 Hiroshima - H: Kuretakeso Hiroshinma Otemachi
Day 24 Kumamoto (Kyushu) - H: Sotetsu Grand Fresa
Day 25 Takachiho (Kyushu) - H: Omosubi Guest House, Mamihara
Day 26 Miayasaki (Kyushu) - H: The Little Garden
Day 27 Sakurajima (Kyushu) - H: Fairfield by Marriott Kagoshima Sakurajima
Day 28 Kagoshima (Kyushu) - H: Henna Hotel
Day 29-31 Taiwan - H: Star Hostel Taipei Main Station

Flight to Japan via Taiwan

Getting to Japan means an exhausting 12-hour flight to Taiwan with China Airlines, the country’s flag carrier. Economy class is perfectly fine, but nothing memorable – and, as so often on night flights, sleep simply doesn’t happen. Taipei Airport becomes a welcome pause between continents. We stretch out in surprisingly comfortable lounge seats, watching the steady rhythm of departures and arrivals, before boarding our final three-hour hop to Tokyo. This time I’m lucky: a Premium Economy seat makes a real difference and turns the short flight into a genuinely relaxed transition into Japan.

Tokyo

- Between Tradition and Neon -

Arrival

The arrival process at Tokyo Narita Airport is efficient, even if the immigration line looks intimidating at first. Thanks to the digital immigration and customs declaration we completed at home, the process is reduced to a quick scan of our QR codes and passports. The queue keeps moving, and about 30 minutes later we are officially in Japan – with our luggage already waiting on the belt.

We pick up our pre-booked package with Skyliner tickets and a 72-hour metro pass and head straight for the train. The Skyliner brings us into the city in just half an hour, delivering us to Nippori Station– fast, smooth and stress-free. From there, we skip the expensive taxi and dive straight into Tokyo’s famously efficient metro system. A short 700-metre walk brings us to the Chiyoda Line, which conveniently stops almost right in front of our hotel: the Sotetsu Fresa Inn in Akasaka. We find the metro quite easy to use. Google maps work perfectly for direction and all relevant information in the stations is available in English.

Tokyo rooms are legendary for their size – or rather, their lack of it – and ours is no exception. Compact, cleverly designed and entirely sufficient. Akasaka isn’t a classic tourist district, but that’s exactly what makes it appealing. The area feels lived-in, offers plenty of excellent eating options and is strategically perfectly located, with three metro stations and lines within easy walking distance.

Suica/Pasmo - Your Best Travel Buddies!

One of the most practical travel companions we will carry in Japan isn’t a guidebook or a camera – it’s a small plastic card in our wallet: Suica (or its twin, PASMO).

Both cards work in exactly the same way. You load money onto the card (e.g. at one of the plenty Konbini stores) and simply tap in and out at train and metro gates. No need to buy individual tickets, no need to calculate fares, no queues at ticket machines. You just walk up, tap, and go.

In a city like Tokyo, where you may change lines several times a day, this alone makes travelling far more relaxed.

The cards can be bought at vending machines in Haneda or Narita and at major train and metro stations. A very convenient way for Apple users is the digital SUICA, which simple can be selected and activated in the public transport section in the Wallet App. It's linked to your credit card and can be toped up simple via the iPhone. You tap in / out just with holding your phone on the readers. Extremely simple.

Suica and PASMO are not limited to trains and buses. They can be used to pay in konbini, at vending machines, in many cafés, bakeries and even small restaurants. A quick tap replaces coins, notes and credit cards – fast, silent and effortless. Nevertheless for those purchases I mostly used my debit card, which not needed to be topped up and mostly worked as well.

Another big plus: both Suica and PASMO work far beyond Tokyo. They are accepted on most public transport networks across Japan, which makes them ideal for a multi-city trip.

Harajuku

After a brief break to shake off the travel fatigue, we head back underground and make our way to Harajuku – a complete contrast to our quiet base. The pedestrian streets buzz with energy, packed with shops, street food and an endless parade of quirky themed cafés. From mini pigs and dogs to cats, capybaras and even otters, animal cafés appear in every imaginable variation – a uniquely Japanese mix of cute, curious and slightly surreal.

Meeting Harry Potter - Themed Cafés

Back in Asakasa we stumble over a Harry Potter café , which feels like a gateway into a different world – a perfect example of how Tokyo blends pop culture, design and everyday life into playful, highly curated experiences. Unfortunately appearance is not all, the cafe has a very bad customer rating at Google, people mostly complaining about prices, small portions and bad food. We don't try it as we are anyway looking for a nice bowl of Ramen tonight.

First food experience

Our first truly Japanese food moments happens at Ramen Mozu, a highly rated small ramen shop on Google, just around the corner from our hotel. There are menus outside, even in english but no waiter is taking orders. Instead, we are guided by the friendly staff to a glowing digital ticket machine at the entrance. We study photos, tap through options we only half understand and make our choice on the screen. Mel is happy that she found a vegetarian option. Payment comes first and is only cash. A small ticket drops out of the machine – our entire order condensed into a single slip of paper. Inside, we hand it to the chef behind the counter, take our seats and wait. It feels strangely efficient, almost ritualistic – and it turns out to be completely normal here.

Within minutes, steaming bowls of delicious ramen appear in front of us a. No small talk, no fuss, just perfectly timed comfort food. In a country famous for precision and flow, even ordering a simple bowl of ramen becomes part of the experience – quick, quiet and wonderfully uncomplicated. We love the food here so much, that we will return two more times during our stay. My favourite becomes the slightly spicy and sesame infused dandan ramen. Yummy!!!

After dinner the jet lag finally catches up with us. Our first evening in Japan ends quietly – and gratefully – in bed, ready for the real exploration to begin tomorrow.

Ginza and Sourrounding

We start the day at the Ghibli Watch, just outside Ginza, which is a homage to Studio Ghibli’s beloved films. Surrounded by business skyscrapers it's creating a surprising and enchanting little spot.

Next we head over to Ginza, Tokyo’s polished and decidedly upmarket face. Wide boulevards, immaculate storefronts and perfectly staged window displays define the atmosphere of what is often compared to New York’s Fifth Avenue. Luxury brands, elegant department stores, galleries and refined cafés sit side by side, creating a calm and almost restrained version of urban excitement.

By chance, we come across a local parade moving through the streets. The music and colourful outfits draw a curious crowd, but despite watching for a while, we never quite manage to understand what the celebration is about – one of those small, pleasant mysteries that often come with travel in Japan.

Bordering Ginza to the north is the Tokyo International Forum Glass Building, a stunning piece of modern architecture and Tokyo Station, which is a equally stunning blend of history and modernity, with its iconic red-brick Marunouchi façade. Serving as a major hub for Shinkansen bullet trains, it connects travelers to all corners of Japan. The best view of it is from the JP Towers terrace at the 6th floor.

Akihabara

From understated elegance of Ginza, we move straight into sensory overload. Akihabara could not feel more different. Neon signs stack on top of each other, giant anime characters look down from façades and loudspeakers spill jingles onto the street. This is Tokyo’s centre of electronics, gaming, anime and pop culture – and it shows. Shops overflow with figurines, retro consoles, trading cards and every imaginable form of fandom merchandise.

Between the stores, young women dressed as maids line the sidewalks, politely inviting passers-by into themed cafés. The whole scene feels highly choreographed, colourful and slightly surreal – a fascinating glimpse into a very specific corner of modern Japanese youth culture.

Asakusa

In the afternoon, we explore Asakusa. Here, Tokyo reveals a much more traditional face. The area revolves around Sensō-ji, the city’s oldest Buddhist temple, and the approach to it leads us through the lively Nakamise Street. Paper lanterns hang overhead, rickshaws wait along the roadside and small stalls sell sweets, snacks and souvenirs that feel rooted in a much older version of the city.

Compared to Ginza’s polished luxury and Akihabara’s visual chaos, Asakusa feels grounded and familiar – a place where Tokyo’s past is still clearly present in everyday life.

The Matcha Beer was not my cup of tea, but the Matcha ice cream is delicious.

Asakusa at night

Before heading back to our hotel, we stop in Ginza again, this time to experience the night-time atmosphere. Especially the bars and restaurants under the train tracks offer some fantastic photo opportunities.

By the end of the day, we will have experienced three very different areas of the city, and that, perhaps, is what makes Tokyo so endlessly compelling.

Gōtokuji – The Famous Cat Temple

Tucked a little off the beaten path, Gōtokuji Temple has earned the nickname Cat Temple for its hundreds of lucky maneki-neko figurines. Once a hidden gem, it’s now a beloved spot for visitors drawn to its serene gardens and the charming sea of beckoning cats. Even a short detour from central Tokyo is well worth the visit!

Snack, Sip, Repeat: The Magic of Japanese Konbinis

In Japan, konbini – short for convenience store – are far more than simple corner shops. Open 24 hours a day and found on almost every block, they are an essential part of modern urban life. Beyond snacks and drinks, konbini offer freshly prepared meals, bill payments, ticket services, parcel delivery and even basic administrative services. For many Japanese, they function as a daily support system for a fast-paced lifestyle – a place to grab breakfast, solve small errands and rely on consistent quality and efficiency at any time of day.

Exploring a Japanese konbini quickly becomes one of the small daily highlights of our trip. From unfamiliar snacks and seasonal sweets to strangely flavoured drinks, we simply pick what looks interesting and try our luck. Not everything matches our taste – but every visit is a fun and surprisingly enriching way to discover a very everyday side of Japan. By the way, one of my top findings is Kirin fruit beer, not sweet and very refreshing. I also like onigiri, simple rice balls, usually shaped by hand into a soft triangle or round form and filled with a small core of savoury ingredients. They are most often wrapped in a strip of nori (seaweed) and meant to be eaten by hand. The perfect snack.

Shinjuku by day....

Arriving in Shinjuku around noon, the district feels surprisingly ordinary for a place known worldwide for its excess. Office workers stream out for lunch, streets are busy but functional, and the towering buildings seem almost restrained in daylight. High above the intersection, the famous 3D cat watches over the crowds, playful but subtle against the bright sky—eye-catching, yet not overwhelming.

As the afternoon unfolds, Shinjuku slowly starts to shift. The Godzilla head above the Toho Cinema emerges as a surreal landmark once you look up, hinting at the district’s larger-than-life personality. Moving into Kabukicho, Tokyo’s most famous entertainment and red-light district, the contrast becomes clearer. In daylight, the area feels more exposed and surprisingly calm: rows of hourly hotels, host clubs and bars are clearly visible, but their true purpose remains dormant, waiting for nightfall.

After sunset, Shinjuku doesn’t change all at once—it transitions. Neon signs grow brighter, music drifts into the streets, and Kabukicho begins to feel more theatrical than edgy. By the time we reach Golden Gai, the tiny bars are just starting to fill, offering a glimpse of the social energy to come without diving fully into the nightlife. Nearby, Omoide Yokocho provides a warmer, nostalgic counterpoint: narrow alleys, glowing lanterns and the smell of grilling yakitori create an atmosphere that feels timeless.

From noon to after sunset, Shinjuku reveals itself layer by layer. Rather than a sudden transformation, it’s a gradual handover from everyday Tokyo to the city’s nocturnal identity.

...and night

Our plan to visit the outlook terraces of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building doesn’t quite go as expected. What seems like a quick stop turns into a long, slow-moving queue, and after 30 minutes of waiting, it becomes clear that the view will have to wait for another day.

Instead of heading up, we shift focus and stay outside the building watching the impressive light show instead, which transforms the massive concrete façade into a canvas of colors and animations.

Metropolitan Government Building, Tokyo, Japan

Team Lab Borderless

Visiting teamLab Borderless Tokyo quickly shows why it’s one of the city’s most popular attractions. When we arrive, a sign at the entrance announces that all tickets for the entire day are already sold out, and crowds continue to gather in hopes of last-minute availability.

Thankfully, we had booked our tickets several weeks in advance, turning what could have been a disappointment into a smooth entry. Inside, the immersive digital art unfolds without clear boundaries between rooms, surrounding us with moving light, color, and sound. I've never experienced something like this, pretty cool.

Meiji Shrine

A visit to Meiji Shrine offers a calm escape from Tokyo’s nonstop energy. Just steps from the busy streets, the shrine is surrounded by a peaceful forest that makes the city feel far away. Walking beneath the towering torii gates and along the gravel paths, the atmosphere feels quiet, respectful, and deeply rooted in tradition.

Shibuya Sky

Shibuya Sky probably offers one of the best views of Tokyo and the famous Shibuya Crossing, also known as the busiest crossing in the world, and is therefore extremely popular, especially at dawn. Tickets go on sale four weeks before, at Japanese midnight. I tried booking them for three consecutive days, but the best times sold out within seconds after midnight. I finally found out that booking at the original web site gives me a few seconds' advantage compared to my previous attempts on Klook. So, after three attempts, I got lucky, only to discover later in horror that the weather forecast for the following week predicted heavy rain. I checked every day, but nothing changed. The day before, the forecast suddenly showed only light rain, what a relief. In reality, we didn't experience any rain at all. Lucky twice.

Nikkō

- Japan’s Sacred Escape -

We set off early at 06:00 for Nikko to avoid taking the metro with our suitcases during the morning rush hour, which works quite well. I booked the express train tickets in advance via Kloog. The train rushes through an endless grey sea of houses and housing complexes that look rather boring. After a while, the housing density thins out. We're not sure when or if we've left Tokyo. It feels seamless.

As we approach Nikko, the scenery becomes greener and more mountainous. We arrive at 08:15 and are fortunate to be able to leave our luggage at our homestay, Nikko Stay House ARAI.

After breakfast at the quirky and charming Junia Café, which is run by an older gentleman and his cat, we walk to the temple area and visit Rinnoji Temple and Toshogu Shrine. Rinnō-ji Temple is Nikko’s most important Buddhist temple. It was founded in the 8th century by the monk Shodo Shonin, who introduced Buddhism to the region. The latter is a magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site dedicated to Tokugawa Leyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. Built in the 17th century, it is renowned for its lavish carvings, vibrant colours and ornate structures, which contrast with the simplicity of most Japanese temples. Among its famous details are the 'Sleeping Cat' and the 'Three Wise Monkeys' carvings. Nestled in a forest of ancient cedars, the shrine exudes a mystical atmosphere which, unfortunately, we completely miss today. When we arrive, it is already very busy with several school classes. Each class comes with its own distinctive hat, which is probably the only way to keep the many classes separate and avoid them mixing together. Each class also seems to have its own photographer, responsible for taking class pictures in front of the temples. This time of year is traditionally the time for school trips, and we now feel as though we are taking part in one, surrounded by hundreds of children. Fortunately, Japanese children are very well-behaved, which makes the hustle and bustle at least bearable.

The Taiyūin Mausoleum, the resting place of Tokugawa Lemitsu, the third shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, is far less visited and more enjoyable. Its quiet atmosphere adds to the mystical and majestic setting, surrounded by towering cedars and a peaceful stone path through the forest. Overall, this was the best experience I had in the area.

Rinnoji Taiyu-in Mausoleum, Nikko, Japan

After a late lunch, we visit the beautifully preserved Tamozawa Imperial Villa, which offers a glimpse into the lifestyle of Japan’s imperial family during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Originally built in 1899 for Prince Yoshihito (who later became Emperor Taisho), the villa blends Edo-period architecture with modern influences from the Meiji era, reflecting Japan’s transition from a traditional to a modern society. The 106-room estate was used as a summer retreat and later as a refuge for Emperor Hirohito during World War II. Today, it is one of Japan’s largest wooden residences. I especially liked the views of the serene green garden from the windows and doors.

We are too tired to visit the Kanmangafuchi Abyss as planned today, so we walk the 2.5 km back to the guesthouse and pick up our car from the Toyota rental office en route. Communication works quite well; the helpful staff are used to working with Google Translate, and most documents are in English. We now have our own car for the next 9 days to explore some of the less touristy areas off the beaten track.

In the evening, I try the yuba (soya skin), which the region is famous for, at the Yuba Komachi Café. I try it once as part of a tomato ramen and once fried like a schnitzel. It tastes fresh, has a nicely firm texture, and works especially well in ramen. Yummy!

It's the first time on the trip that we sleep on traditional futons on tatami mats, which fortunately aren't too hard.

Our host is the sweetest person we could have imagined. Although it's not included in the price, we get a free, comprehensive breakfast, even at 6 a.m. Yesterday, when we tried to decline, she insisted, saying, 'Six o'clock? No problem, no problem.'

We know it's a busy time here in autumn, but we're surprised to see so many cars on the way further up the mountains to the sightseeing spots by 6:30 a.m.

The first car park at Ryuzu Falls is almost full by the time we arrive 30 minutes later. Here, at 1,300 metres above sea level, autumn is in full colour, and the falls are breathtakingly beautiful. Now we can also see who our competitors for parking spaces are. Mostly seniors, either with hiking or heavy photography equipment.

Many hikers wear bear bells to warn the bears ahead that food is coming. Jokes aside, this is bear country, and there have been several deadly bear attacks in Japan recently, even reported in German newspapers. Bears are generally harmless, but they can attack if they are surprised by humans. Therefore, a bear bell is not a bad idea. Fortunately, there are enough other hikers around, so we constantly hear the sound of bells and feel safe.

The three-hour hike from Ryuzu Falls to Okkuniko Onsen via Yudaki Falls is beautiful and varied. We pass through different forest areas and marshland and follow rivers and lakes. The weather is perfect. The air is crisp, but the sun warms our skin. It's a beautiful morning.

In Okkunika, we enjoy a free, relaxing foot bath in the hot water before taking the bus back to the car.

I'm a bit shocked when Google tells me the driving time to Kamakura is 6.5 hours. I have something around 4 hours expected for the 220 km journey. We skip Kegon Falls as there are long queues at the car parks, and we have a long journey ahead of us. The roads is winding with a speed limit of 40 or 50 km/h. Once we're down from the mountains, we mostly drive through small villages and industrial areas on secondary roads. I start to get suspicious — this can't be right. We stop to check the Google Maps settings, and of course it's set to 'Avoid toll roads'. After changing this setting, the estimated driving time drops significantly from 4.5 hours to just 2.5 hours. Shortly afterwards, we join the motorway. However, the motorway also comes at a price. The toll station displays 4,500 yen when we leave the highway at Kamakura. That's quite expensive, but we knew that beforehand. At least we have an ETC card in the car, which makes things much easier. We just need to drive through an ETC gate and everything works automatically. We will pay the total toll when we return the car to the rental agency.

The JR East Hotel has decent rooms, a parking lot, and best of all, a train station next to it, which will take us to Kamakura in 15 minutes. Finding parking there would not be easy.

Kamakura

- A Hike Trough Sacred History -

In the morning, we take the Daibutsu hike, which connects several temples and shrines in Kamakura. The hike takes a little over three and a half hours, including visits to the temples and shrines. My personal favourite is the Hase-Dera Temple, which has lots of little nooks and crannies to explore. Unfortunately, it's raining quite heavily today.

In the afternoon, we drive for two and a half hours to the Izu Peninsula. It's only 100 km, but the roads are slow with quite a lot of traffic and traffic lights. Driving in the dark in the rain is not much fun and requires full concentration. I'm glad when we arrive at the Joy Inn Guesthouse.

We decide to have dinner at an Italian/Japanese restaurant. It's only when we start walking that we realise the 800 metres are a steep downhill slope, and it's raining again. We're not looking forward to climbing back up to the guesthouse. It seems an older couple runs the guesthouse. Mel has a pizza and I have seafood spaghetti. Both were OK. While we eat, it starts pouring with rain outside. When we tried to leave, the sweet restaurant lady asked us to sit down again. Shortly afterwards, she comes with some extra onigiri for us both and tells us, via Google Translate, that she will drive us back to our guesthouse. How sweet is that? We gladly accept.

Izu Peninsula

- Wild Coast and Lush Interior -

According to the weather forecast, we can expect two rainy days. The view of the coast from our room confirms this. It's grey and raining, and we can barely see the coastline. Our host send us pictures from what we normally could expect to see.

We decide to stay in bed for another hour before we leave. Our first stop is the Jogasaki Coast with the famous suspension bridge, where we take a short walk in our rain gear. Fortunately, the rain is not too bad.

We skip the perfectly formed cone of the famous Mount Omuru and drive straight into the lush interior of the peninsula. The rain just adds to the lush, green surroundings.

Next, we visit the Banjo Falls, the wasabi fields in Ikakawa and the Joren Falls, where I try wasabi ice cream — surprisingly delicious!

Wasabi

Wasabi is a plant native to Japan, its most famous part is the rhizome, a thick underground stem that is grated to produce the pungent green paste commonly served with sushi and sashimi. Before coming to Japan, I thought I knew wasabi.

What I actually knew was the green paste served with sushi all over the world – sharp, aggressive and usually gone after one cautious dip. In Japan, the real experience is very different. Fresh wasabi, grated just moments before serving, tastes surprisingly delicate. It is still spicy, but softer, greener and more aromatic, with a clean heat that fades quickly instead of burning.

Tasting real wasabi for the first time feels like discovering a missing detail in Japanese cuisine. It is not meant to overpower the fish, but to quietly support it. Like so many small food moments in Japan, wasabi turns out to be less about intensity – and much more about balance.

Because wasabi takes a long time to mature and needs very specific conditions, genuine wasabi is still relatively rare and prized and even in Japan only served in better sushi restaurants.

The Izu Peninsula is one of Japans most important wasabi producing regions. The area is famous for “water wasabi” that thrives in mountain spring water at a steady cool temperature, ideal for this delicate plant’s growth.

Wasabi cultivation here dates back centuries and uses traditional methods that make the most of the region’s abundant clear streams and shaded terraces. Farmers build stone-layered beds called tatamiishi fields, where spring water filters through pebbles and sand, supplying oxygen and nutrients without heavy use of fertilisers. This creates excellent conditions for wasabi and supports a rich mountain ecosystem alongside the farms.

Finally, we stop at the Kawazu Seven Waterfalls. The well-maintained trail leads past cascading falls, mossy rocks, and clear pools, each waterfall with its own character and rhythm. Surrounded by dense greenery and the sound of rushing water, the walk is refreshing and peaceful.

Kawazu Seven Falls, Izu Peninsula, Japan

There is a lot to see in the beautiful countryside, and it's almost dark by the time we finally arrive at the All You Need Guesthouse in Shimoda. Shimoda is famous for its clear waters, which make it a popular spot for swimming, snorkelling and surfing in the summer. Now, however, it feels rather quiet. Shimoda also has some historical significance. It was one of the first Japanese ports to be opened to foreign trade after Commodore Perry’s arrival in 1854, marking a pivotal moment in Japan’s modernisation.

For dinner, I try a recommendation from our host. Mimatsu is a small, local sushi restaurant run by the fourth generation of the same family, and according to our host it is a famous place. I immediately like it. It’s run by a couple, and I can watch my sushi being prepared piece by piece. The other guests seem to be locals. The menu is only in Japanese, but Google Lens can translate it. I order a special mixed plate. When my freshly prepared dish arrives, the chef shows me in a book what type of fish I have. Beside of tuna, there is a type of sea bream, a long eel-like fish, a large mussel and squid. Everything is delicious, although the tuna remains my favourite. It really melts in the mouth, so I order an extra plate with different tuna nigiri's to learn more the differences.

Tuna and Salmon Sushi

When I order sushi in Germany, I can usually only choose the species of fish, such as tuna or salmon. It was only here in Japan that I realised that even in conveyor belt sushi restaurants, I could choose from many different types of tuna based on the type of fish, the part of the fish used and the way it is prepared, which gives an incredible range of variation.

Tuna species: yellowtail, bluefin, albacore, bonito (no real tuna but related).
Part of the fish: Akami (lean), Chūtoro (medium fat) and Ōtoro (fatty).
Preparation: raw, flamed or marinated.

The most expensive is usually bluefin Ōtoro (fatty), which just melts in the mouth, but it can also cost four to five times more than Akami (lean) bluefin. Beside trying this and that, I usually filled up on bluefin Akami, which is still delicious, and added one or two pieces of Chūtoro or Ōtoro as a special treat. I also tried the different preparation styles, which were nice, but I must admit that simple raw fish is still my favourite on nigiri.

Incidentally, salmon sushi is a relatively recent addition to Japanese cuisine. Pacific salmon was usually cooked, grilled or salted, as it was prone to parasites. This changed in the 1980s when Norwegian officials and seafood exporters led a coordinated effort known as 'Project Japan'. Their goal was to introduce parasite-free, farmed Atlantic salmon to Japan as a safe and appealing sushi ingredient. After a lot of advertising and lobbying, salmon became an increasingly popular addition to sushi menus.

By the way, I was told Sushiro is the best conveyor belt sushi brand and is also very popular with locals. Not only is it very convenient with an English ordering system, it's also perfect for trying all kinds of different sushi. For around €15, I could enjoy a feast of sushi, and the quality was much better than what I'm typically used to in Germany. I visited them at least ten times in different locations during my trip.

According to the weather forecast, we should expect the worst today, but to our surprise it's overcast but not raining. So we decide to go on a half-day road trip around the southern part of the peninsula, stopping at several viewpoints along the way.

Hagachizaki Monkey Bay, today unfortunately out of monkeys.

Kumomi Sengen Shrine. Endless stairs for "almost" endless views.

Fuji Matsuzaki Lookout. No Fuji view today

Shirahama Beach. No sunbathing today.

By the time we return, it starts raining. Perfect timing! Later in the afternoon, I go for a short walk to two viewpoints overlooking the town. One overlooks the coast and the local sea aquarium, and the other overlooks the city. Both are quite nice.

The weather forecast is finally showing good weather, and we wake up to a blue sky and warm, golden sunshine. Today, we plan to drive to the northern side of Mount Fuji, stopping at a couple of viewpoints, before staying in a town called Kawaguchi-ko. I'm excited, hoping to catch a glimpse of the famous mountain.

However, the first viewpoint is a big disappointment. Although there is a blue sky over the peninsula, Mt. Fuji on the mainland is completely covered in clouds. We stop at Koganezaki Viewpoint and Mt. Daruma Observatory. Both are nice, but without Fuji, the cherry on the cake is missing.

In Shuzenji, a popular onsen village, we take a stroll and stop for coffee in a charming retro café before proceeding to the scenic Shiraito Waterfall. We are now on the east side of Mt. Fuji, but the view is still obscured by clouds.

We then drive to the north side of Mt. Fuji, stopping at Lake Motosu, Shoji, Saiko and Kawaguchi. These are all very scenic spots, but there is still no view, although the cloud cover seems to be thinning.

From Mt. Fuji to Kanazawa

- Exploring the Japanese Alps -

Mt. Fuji

When we arrive at our hotel, Megu Fuji 2021 in Fujiyoshida, we are upgraded to a room with a view of Mount Fuji. After today's events, I start making jokes about it, but what can I say? Once we're in the room, who greets us through the window? Mt. Fuji, of course, not as a tapestry, but in real life. I make my way to the terrace for an even better view. It's pretty cool, and the clearing weather promises a great morning, too.

I wake up at 4:40 am, looking forward to seeing the fantastic sunrise over Mt. Fuji from the Chureito Pagoda. There are plenty of stars in the sky when I leave the hotel; the air is fresh and crisp. I jump into the car full of anticipation, only to find that the windscreen is frozen. Thankfully, the hotel door card solves the problem in 3 minutes. It's just a 10-minute drive to the car park and a 15-minute climb up the stairs to the pagoda. Behind the pagoda is a viewing platform. I'm the first person there, along with a French couple on their honeymoon, and I set up my small tripod in a good spot. Just in time, as the dark sky behind the majestic Mount Fuji slowly gives way to a blueish tint, creating a beautiful backdrop for the first photos. More and more people arrive over time, and then the first warm glow of sunlight shows on the light snow cover of Mt. Fuji. With the scenic pagoda in the foreground, it's an enchanting moment. A trio of Instagrammers set up their tripod as well, posing with a Louis Vuitton handbag. Not my world.

When I finally leave, there are about 40 people on the platform, which is still far from crowded. The way down the stairs offers some additional, surprisingly nice photo opportunities of Mt. Fuji.

No one is collecting money at the private car park yet, so I save the 1000 yen, which I would gladly have paid after this fabulous start of the day. The official car park cost 1,500 yen since 25 April and is harder to reach.

Back in the city, I stop at another popular photo spot where you can see towering Mt. Fuji at the end of a long, scenic road. I position myself strategically and simply observe and take pictures of people taking photos on the pedestrian footpath and of interesting vehicles passing by. Good fun!

After I've picked up Mel from the hotel, we drive to another scenic Mt. Fuji spot. Oshino Village has a couple of nice old houses which makes a good foreground. Unfortunately the place is already extremely busy with group tours and the light becomes to harsh for good shots.

Nevertheless it was a fantastic morning with perfect Mt. Fuji view.

Matsumoto Castle

A two-and-a-half-hour drive takes us to Matsumoto, which is famous for its castle. And indeed, it is impressive. Matsumoto Castle is one of Japan’s most beautiful and best-preserved original castles. Nicknamed the 'Crow Castle' due to its striking black exterior, the castle dates back to the late 16th century and showcases classic Japanese feudal architecture. The castle's wooden interior and steep stairs reflect its defensive design, and the surrounding moat and views of the Japanese Alps provide a stunning backdrop. Definitely worth a stop.

Hiking Magome Chaya to Tsumago

Another two-hour drive takes us to our final destination of the day: Magome Chaya. This charming village is the starting point for one of Japan’s most scenic and historic trails, which follows a preserved section of the old Nakasendō route that once connected Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo).

As there is not much going on after dark, we have pre-booked dinner at our guesthouse, Magome Chaya. It's a good decision — the food is not only well presented, but also very tasty.

The 8-kilometer path from Magome to Tsumago winds through lush forests, quiet farmland, and charming post towns that feel frozen in time. Along the way, we pass small waterfalls, traditional teahouses, and well-kept Edo-period homes. It‘s a nice but not spectacular hike. Reminds me a bit of the Black Forest in Germany.

Like in Nikko we see several signs warning from bears. Yesterday another person was killed by a bear up in the north of Japan, totalling now 10 this year and hundreds of wounded. I‘m normally not so easily scared but with all the latest news and warning signs, I automatically start to continuously scan the area, while walking. We stick together, ring the occasional bear bells on the way and play Tortes All Time Best Playlist as we do not have a wearable bear bell with us. I wonder if that really would work or if it’s just a signal to the bears: „Lunch is ready"

Tsumago is a neat town, like Magome. We take a bus back and then proceed two hours through rural landscape to Takayama.

Takayama

Takayama is a beautifully preserved town from the Edo period, known for its traditional wooden houses and charming old streets. Often referred to as 'Little Kyoto', it provides visitors with a glimpse into Japan’s past, offering attractions such as sake breweries, morning markets and artisan workshops.

We check in to the Kajette guesthouse. The process is completely digital and requires pre-registration. A little complicated, but it worked. The room is modern, well equipped and perfectly located in town. It even has its own parking space, just three minutes away.

We are in Gifu prefecture, which is famous for its Wagyu beef. I try it in two different ways. Once on a grilled skewer and once as a type of sushi. It's absolutely delicious and melts in the mouth. It's not cheap, but it's definitely the best beef I have ever tasted.

Japanes Wagyu - Legendary Beef

If there’s one culinary experience in Japan that often lingers long after a trip, it’s Wagyu beef. Known worldwide for its extraordinary marbling, melt-in-your-mouth texture, and rich, buttery flavor.

What Makes Wagyu So Special?

At its core, Wagyu is all about marbling. The Japanese word sashi refers to the fine streaks of fat running through the meat, and it is this even, delicate marbling that gives Wagyu its legendary tenderness and flavor. Unlike other beef, Wagyu fat has a lower melting point, so it practically melts on your tongue. The cows are raised with meticulous care: specific feed, stress-free environments, and in some cases, special treatments like massages or even classical music — all contributing to meat of unparalleled quality.

Wagyu isn’t a single breed, but rather a term for several genetically distinct Japanese cattle breeds, each producing beef with unique characteristics.

Probably the most famous Wagyu outside Japan, Kobe beef comes from the Tajima strain of Japanese Black cattle, raised in Hyogo Prefecture. Kobe beef is prized for its extremely fine marbling, soft texture, and subtly sweet flavor. Authentic Kobe is tightly regulated; only beef meeting exacting standards earns the Kobe label. The experience of eating it is almost ceremonial — thinly sliced, quickly seared, and often enjoyed with the simplest accompaniments to let the meat shine.

Hida beef, from the Gifu Prefecture in central Japan, is slightly less internationally famous but no less remarkable. Known for its tender texture and rich umami, Hida beef often has slightly firmer texture than Kobe but still delivers luxurious flavor. Hida cattle are raised in the mountainous region around Takayama, where the climate and natural feed contribute to a beef that is both delicate and intensely flavorful.

Down in southern Japan, Kagoshima beef comes from the largest Wagyu-producing region in the country. It’s slightly leaner than Kobe or Hida but still offers exquisite marbling and deep flavor. Kagoshima beef tends to have a more robust, beef-forward taste, making it perfect for yakiniku (Japanese BBQ) or shabu-shabu, where the richness of the meat is complemented by cooking in broths or over flames.

Japanese Wagyu is rated using a very strict grading system that evaluates both yield A-C (how much usable meat comes from a carcass ) and quality 1-5 (marbling, color, texture, and fat quality).

The final grade combines yield + quality, e.g., A5 is the top tier: highest yield and top quality meat with incredible marbling. A5 Wagyu is what most high-end restaurants serve and what Kobe beef is usually classified as.

Wagyu is one of the most expensive meats in the world, but even small portions deliver a flavor and texture that many travelers, including myself, consider unforgettable.

Supermarket: A5 Wagyu can cost ¥10,000–¥20,000 per 100g (roughly €7–15) depending on the region and brand.
Restaurant: A single steak in a specialty Kobe or Wagyu restaurant can cost ¥10,000–¥30,000 ($75–$225) for 150–200g.
Conveyor-belt sushi chains or casual yakiniku restaurants sometimes serve Wagyu slices for ¥500–¥1,500 per portion, often smaller cuts or lower grades (like A3 or A4).

Kamikochi National Park

We set off early for Kamikochi, a very popular national park in the Japanese Alps. As public transport in the valley is restricted, we have to switch to a bus at the Akandana Park & Ride hub. It's freezing when we arrive. No wonder — we're at an elevation of 1,500 metres. Huge areas are covered in frost from the previous night. With the warm morning sun already shining on the mountains, it looks a bit like a winter wonderland.

We do a classic three-hour hike through the area's diverse landscape, starting from Taisho Pond to the Myojin Bridge and back to the Kamikochi Information Center. It's not too busy until we reach the main hub at the end. By 11:30, the place is bustling with people.

On the way back to Takayama, we suddenly see a small black bear right in the middle of the road. It was so quick that it took me by surprise and I couldn't take a picture.

In Takayama, I visit the Hida Folk Village, which is a collection of historic houses from the Hida region. It's quite nice and informative.

Back in Takayama

For dinner, we try our luck at Gyoza Shohozan, which is so popular with tourists that people sometimes queue for over two hours. We arrive half an hour before the official opening time to find nine people already waiting. Twenty minutes later, we are lucky enough to be seated immediately in the small hut, which has only 12 seats. We order gyoza with different fillings. I don't have much experience of gyoza (Japanese dumplings), so I can't compare them, but they taste absolutely delicious. Even so, I wouldn't wait for two hours. When we leave, about 20 people are waiting outside, meaning a waiting time of about an hour.

Mochi - Sweet Delights

One of our sweetest small discoveries in Japan turns out to be mochi.

These soft rice cakes look simple at first glance, but they quickly reveal how deeply seasonal and regional Japanese food culture really is. Made from pounded glutinous rice, mochi have a unique texture – gently chewy, elastic and surprisingly filling. In traditional sweet shops, we watch them being filled with smooth red bean paste, strawberries or subtly flavoured creams, each piece carefully shaped by hand.

What makes mochi special for a traveller is not only the taste, but the moment they are eaten. Standing on a street corner in Asakusa or wandering through a quiet neighbourhood near our hotel, a freshly made mochi becomes a small pause in the day. Light, delicate and never overly sweet, it fits perfectly into Japan’s restrained dessert culture.

Historic Takayama by night. Much more quiet.

Shirakawa

Today, we plan to drive to Kanazawa, stopping in the charming UNESCO World Heritage village of Shirakawa-go en route. This village is famous for its traditional gasshō-zukuri farmhouses, whose steep thatched roofs resemble hands in prayer. Designed to withstand heavy winter snow, these unique homes have been preserved for centuries, offering a glimpse into rural Japan’s past. Shirakawa-go is surrounded by rice fields and forested hills and feels like a step back in time, except for the enormous car park that can accommodate dozens of tourist buses.

When we arrive, it’s still early, so the little village is rather quiet, but this will change drastically within the next hour. We stroll leisurely along the roads towards a viewpoint overlooking the entire village, and the surrounding scenery reminds me of the Black Forest in Germany. On our way back to the car park, we have to fight our way through a constant stream of tourists; dozens of tourist buses have arrived in the meantime, and there is still plenty of space in the bus car park.

Kanazawa

An hour later, we arrive in Kanazawa, fill up the car, leave our luggage at the hotel and return the car. Everything with Toyota works extremely smoothly again. We pay around €80 for the tolls incurred during our nine-day trip, which are automatically collected by the ETC card in the car.

Kanazawa has recently been marketed as an alternative to Kyoto with fewer tourists. We visit the popular Omicho market, famous for its seafood, and afterwards the rather small and limited interesting Ninja Museum, where we try our hand at throwing stars.

Next, we explore some of the samurai, geisha and teahouse districts for which Kanazawa is famous. Unfortunately, it is raining, which made walking around quite unpleasant.

Kanazawa quiet by night.

A really nice dinner at Kitchen Hanna, a restaurant run by a local family. It's great fun watching granny and her helper cooking, right from the table.

In the morning, we visit Kanazawa Castle and the Kenroku-en Garden, one of Japan's most famous landscape gardens.

We then have a rest at one of the old teahouses in Higashi Chaya.

Shinkansen to Kyoto

In the late afternoon, we take the train to Kyoto.

This travel story is separated in three parts, use the links below to the other parts

--> This is Part 1:Japan - Tokyo to Kanazawa

--> Go to Part 2:Japan - Kyoto to Kagoshima

--> Go to Part 3:Taiwan

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