10%

Japan - Kyoto to Kagoshima

Part 2 - Four weeks traveling through Japan and Taiwan, Oct./Nov. 2025

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

April 25^th, 2026

Welcome

This travel story is separated in three parts, use the links below to the other parts

--> Go to Part 1:Japan - Tokyo to Kanazawa

--> This is Part 2:Japan - Kyoto to Kagoshima

--> Go to Part 3:Taiwan

Kyoto

- Managing the Crowds -

Arrival in Kyoto

We take a taxi from the train station to our hotel OMO5. Kyoto is known for its busy transport system, so navigating it with our luggage doesn't sound appealing. The fare is around 15 EUR, which is reasonable.

While preparing for the trip, I spent a lot of time thinking about where to stay in Kyoto, Osaka and Nara. Ultimately, we decided to spend eight nights in Kyoto and take day trips to the other places, as they only take about an hour to reach. Eight nights sounds like a long time, but in the end it's only six full days, which easily fill up as there is so much to see.

The OMO5 is within walking distance of the Nishiki Night Market, Pontocho Road, Gion, and most of the western temples. It is also close to a variety of city buses and two major metro lines, providing good connections to Osaka and Nara. In my opinion, it's the perfect location. I would definitely stay here again.

Western Temples

Our first stop today is the Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion), which we reach by bus. This Zen temple is renowned for its serene aesthetics rather than its elaborate decorations. Originally built in the 15th century as a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, it later became a temple dedicated to appreciating simplicity and the beauty of imperfection. The quiet moss gardens, raked sand patterns and reflective pond create a calm atmosphere, inviting slow, mindful exploration. We enjoy wandering through the beautiful garden. and stunned to see workers cleaning the moss from fallen leaves by hand. A never-ending task in autumn.

Next, we follow the Philosopher's Path, a cherry-lined canal leading south towards Nanzen-ji. This peaceful route takes us through charming neighbourhoods, past small shrines and traditional homes, and through beautiful seasonal scenery — especially stunning during the cherry blossom season in spring. The weather constantly changes between rain and sunshine, and sometimes both at once.

After stopping for coffee to escape another rain shower, we visit Eikando Temple, which is particularly beautiful in autumn thanks to its many maple trees. Unfortunately, it is a little too early, and the leaves have only just started to change colour. In two weeks, they will turn a deep, shiny red.

Due to another rain shower, we skip Nanzenji Temple and decide to visit Shorenin Temple when it clears up. Shorenin Temple is a smaller, more intimate temple known for its calm atmosphere and elegant gardens. We walk along wooden corridors that open onto a tranquil moss garden containing a koi pond and carefully arranged trees. It's the perfect place to rest, especially as the sun has come out again and is warming our bodies. We enjoy the soothing escape from the busier temples nearby.

Some more temples on the way.

Guided Night Tour

After another coffee break, we relax at the hotel before joining the night tour of the old part of Kyoto that we have booked. Masabi, or 'Wasabi' as he suggests for easier recall, shows us around the Ginza and Teahouse areas. He is funny and has lots of stories to share.

Among other things, we learn the differences between geishas and maikos (apprentices), and how to pray properly in front of a shrine. Real teahouses are only open to members nowadays and cost a fortune, so are only accessible to the upper class.

We are lucky enough to see a geisha returning from her performance, which is difficult to see in public nowadays. Today, only 200 geishas remain, down from over 2,000 in the past.

Geishas

In Japan, the world of geisha is often misunderstood, shaped by myths rather than reality. Especially in Kyoto, where the tradition remains strongest, geisha are highly trained artists and entertainers dedicated to preserving classical Japanese culture. Their role is not romantic or sensational, but refined and professional.

Many young women choose to become geisha because they are drawn to traditional arts such as dance, shamisen music, tea ceremony, and refined conversation. In Kyoto, an apprentice is called a maiko (often misspelled “meiko”), and her journey begins with years of intensive training in etiquette, performance, and cultural knowledge. A maiko is typically younger, wears more elaborate kimono and ornate hairstyles, and is still learning under the guidance of senior geisha. A fully qualified geisha (called geiko in Kyoto) has completed this apprenticeship and presents a more understated elegance in dress and appearance.

Their main task is to entertain guests at private banquets and gatherings in traditional tea houses. This entertainment includes classical dance, music, conversation, and hosting with exceptional grace and social awareness. It is about atmosphere, artistry, and cultural continuity—not performance in the modern sense.

Earnings vary and are not publicly standardized, but established geisha can command high fees for exclusive engagements, often arranged through traditional tea houses. However, the profession is demanding and competitive, and the income reflects years of training and the exclusivity of the craft rather than glamour.

West Kyoto - Gion and Kiyomizu Temple

On the way to Kyomizu Temple in the morning, we stroll through Gion and around the Yasaka Pagoda once more. It's already starting to get busy. In front of the Starbucks (the only one housed in a traditional teahouse), dozens of people are are queuing up.

Kiyomizu Temple is one of Kyoto’s most iconic temples. It is famous for its large wooden terrace, which seems to float above the hillside and offers sweeping views of the city. Founded in the 8th century, the main hall of the temple is built entirely without nails, showcasing remarkable traditional craftsmanship. The surrounding grounds include pagodas, shrines and scenic walking paths which are particularly beautiful during the cherry blossom and autumn leaf seasons. It's already very busy when we arrive.

When we leave, the streets around the temple are jam-packed. We stop at the Kōdaiji Temple, which is luckily a little quieter, before we walk back to our hotel. Eating Japanese food for the last two weeks, we are happy to find an authentic panini place close to our hotel for some variety. Goichi Panino is not cheap, but the food is extremely tasty, made with homemade bread and imported Italian ingredients.

Nishiki Market

Next, we stroll through the 400 year old Nishiki Market. Known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen,” the narrow arcade is packed with stalls selling everything from fresh seafood and pickles to matcha sweets and street-food skewers but for now we are still full.

When you first walk past a Japanese restaurant, you might notice something unusual in the window: dishes that look too perfect to eat. These are sampuru — incredibly realistic plastic food models that line countless restaurant windows across Japan. From steaming bowls of ramen to intricately arranged sushi platters, these displays aren’t just eye-catching—they’re a cultural phenomenon.

Originating in the early 20th century in Tokyo, sampuru were created to help restaurant patrons visualize their meals, especially when literacy rates were lower or menus were confusing. Today, they’ve evolved into an art form. Skilled artisans spend hours crafting each piece by hand, carefully mixing colors and textures to mimic the real thing. Some sushi sets even include tiny droplets of soy sauce, or glistening rice grains that look almost edible.

For travelers, these displays are more than just decoration—they’re a window into Japanese attention to detail and love for presentation. They also make ordering a breeze: just point at the dish that looks the most appetizing!

We even find German sauerkraut and sausages on display.

Tea Ceremony

In the afternoon, we take part in a traditional tea ceremony. It's one of those quietly powerful experiences that cannot be rushed – and that is exactly the point.

We step into a small, calm tea room, leaving the noise of the city outside almost instantly. The movements of the host are slow, precise and deliberate. Every gesture – from folding the cloth to placing the bowl on the tatami mat – follows a carefully practiced sequence that has been refined over centuries.

At the centre of the ceremony is matcha, powdered green tea, whisked by hand into a vivid green foam. But the tea itself is only part of what is happening. The ceremony is guided by the idea of ichigo ichie – “one moment, one meeting” – a reminder that this exact encounter, in this exact place, will never happen again.

Before the tea is served, we are offered a small traditional sweet. Its gentle sweetness balances the slightly bitter matcha that follows. We receive the bowl with both hands, turn it slightly, and take a quiet sip – just as we are shown. Afterwards it's our term.

What stays with us most is not the taste, but the atmosphere.

Japanese Macha

In Japan, matcha is more than just green tea—it’s a tradition deeply rooted in culture, especially in Kyoto. The tea plants are shaded before harvest to enhance flavor and nutrients, then the leaves are dried and slowly ground into a fine powder. Unlike regular tea, the whole leaf is consumed when matcha is whisked into water.

Matcha is valued for its high antioxidant content and its unique combination of caffeine and L-theanine, which provides calm, steady energy. Today, it’s enjoyed not only in traditional tea ceremonies but also in lattes, desserts, and even savory dishes—blending heritage with modern taste.

Imperial Palace and Kinkaju-ji

Today is a rest day. No early wake-up call! After breakfast, we take a leisurely walk to the Kyoto Imperial Palace. On the way, I buy some matcha from one of the shops recommended by the ladies from the tea ceremony, when I asked them. To my surprise, due to the high demand and short supply, every customer can only buy one small 20g pot of matcha. 20 g is enough for four to five matcha lattes. That's it. The prices are steep, but significantly cheaper than in Germany for similar quality.

The Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto Gosho) served as the residence of Japan’s emperors for over 1,000 years, from 794 until the capital moved to Tokyo in 1869. When Emperor Kanmu established Heijō-kyō (today’s Nara) as the new imperial capital, courtly and governmental life centred around this site. Over the centuries, the palace suffered several fires and was repeatedly rebuilt, with the current layout mainly dating to the 1850s.

While the palace area is huge, it is less impressive than some of the temples we’ve visited, despite its historical significance. The harsh midday sunlight also does little to enhance the atmosphere. If time is an issue, I would rather skip it.

After resting in the hotel, I take a bus to one of Kyoto’s most iconic temples:

Kinkaku-ji, also known as the Golden Pavilion. Originally built in 1397 as a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, it was later converted into a Zen temple. Its top two floors are covered in gold leaf and reflect beautifully in the surrounding pond and garden, which are examples of classical Japanese landscape design. It's one of Kyoto’s most visited temples and is extremely busy, even one hour before closing time, when I arrive.

Sushiro in Kyoto, my favourite sushi place.

Night walk

A relaxt late night walk through Kyotos old part. So quiet, compared to daytime.

North East Kyoto - Arashiyama

Today, we plan to explore Arashiyama, which is located in the north-western corner of Kyoto. Next to the train station lies the Togetsukyo Bridge, one of Arashiyama's landmarks.

Hidden amongst the hills of Arashiyama, just a short bus ride from the train station away, Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple exudes charm and character. It is famous for its 1,200-plus stone statues (rakan), each with a unique expression or pose — some playful, some serene — so that every corner brings a new discovery. I love the place.

Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, Arashiyama, Kyoto, Japan

A short walk away, Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple offers a beautiful bamboo forest without the crowds that flock to the more famous one, next to Tenryū-ji Temple.

Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple, Arashiyama, Kyoto, Japan

Giō-ji Temple is small, but has a beautiful moss garden.

We have lunch at Jurakuan, a very authentic old style restaurant run by two older grandmas. The hering in Soba noodles is absolutely amazing in texture and taste and I'm glad that I've followed the recommendations on google.

Jōjakkōji Temple has lots of marble trees and is especially beautiful in autumn. Unfortunately, it's still a bit early for the deep red colours.

Jojakkoji Temple, Arashiyama, Kyoto, Japan

We stop at Arashiyama Park, which offers good views of the valley, before walking back towards the bridge along the river.

Arashiyama has even more to offer, such as a monkey park, boat or train rides, and more temples and gardens. However, we decide that that it's enough for today and take the bus, full of impressions, back to the hotel.

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Fushimi Inari Taisha, one of Kyoto’s most iconic Shinto shrines, is best known for its thousands of vibrant vermilion torii gates, which form a winding path up Mount Inari. Dedicated to Inari, the deity of rice and prosperity, the shrine has been a place of worship for over 1,300 years. Fox statues, believed to be messengers of Inari, can be found throughout the grounds.

We set off early at 06:00 am to avoid the worst of the tourist crowds. Unfortunately, the express train we take does not stop at the required station, so we have to take a local train back. By 07:00 am, it's already getting busy, with everyone trying to take pictures of the iconic torii gate tunnel without anyone in the background. This is not easy, and later in the day it is impossible. I must admit that I’m no exception, which is a real shame as the scenery with the torii gates is enchanting and deserves to be enjoyed without the constant rush and search for photo opportunities.

We walk for about 45 minutes and then return via a quieter route without gates. It's now extremely busy back at the starting point. Crowds of people push their way up the mountain under the torii gates.

Nara

- Sacred Shrines and Tame Deer -

After the early morning visit at Fushimi Inari Taisha, we take the train to Nara, a popular day trip from Kyoto. Japan’s first permanent capital, Nara is a place where history, nature and tradition blend effortlessly. The city boasts ancient temples, serene gardens and the famous free-roaming deer that wander through Nara Park. Highlights include the monumental Great Buddha at Tōdai-ji Temple, the elegant Kasuga Taisha Shrine, and the peaceful, forested walking paths that connect the main sights.

Observing the interaction between humans and deer is great fun. Deer crackers are sold at several stalls, and the clever animals have learned to bow in exchange for them. However, they can also become quite pushy, especially when they see the crackers in your hand. Being surrounded by dozens of pushy deer is not for everyone.

We stroll around the huge park for about four hours in total.

Japans Kawaii Culture

The kawaii culture is the idea of valuing things that are cute, small, soft, friendly, and emotionally comforting. The mascots on school bags are a very typical everyday expression of this.

They follow you everywhere you go in Japan. Small stuffed mascot are considered modern protective amulets. For young people, they are emotional companions. A plush monster on a backpack calms you down, dispels loneliness, and keeps you company on your daily commute. But carrying your favourite stuffed animal is just the beginning of the complex bag charm culture, which I am probably too old to understand in all depth. In Japan, where communication often remains subtle, plush mascots reveal interests without saying a word. Access to these fluffy companions is very easy: every month, thousands of capsule vending machines spit out new, inexpensive mini plush figures that fit perfectly on bags. In big cities like Osaka and Tokyo, they can be found on almost every corner—often in groups or in specialized stores whose aisles are filled with gachapons, the surprise capsules. Department stores devote entire floors to them, where a spin of the machine promises the next lucky charm.

Osaka - Neon Nights and Street

Food Dreams

Osaka Castle

Today is Osaka Day! The Keihan Line, which is just 300 metres away from our hotel in Kyoto, will take us to Osaka Castle in about 50 minutes, followed by a 15-minute walk.

Originally built in the late 16th century by the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the castle played a key role in the unification of Japan. The current structure, rebuilt in the 20th century, features a majestic white facade with golden details, and the top floor offers panoramic views.

We walk around the castle once, looking for the best photo spots, before entering. In contrast to Matsumoto Castle, which is still in its original state, it becomes clear that this is a relatively new structure when we take the lift upstairs.

Taking the pet rabbit out for a walk. The perfect pet for small city flats.

Having a break after lots of walking.

Dotonbori

Walking through Dotonbori feels like stepping straight into Osaka’s beating heart. Neon signs shimmer on the canal, crowds drift from one street snack to the next, and the smell of takoyaki and grilled seafood hangs in the air. Under the glow of the famous Glico Running Man, I pause for a moment and realize that Dotonbori is not just a place to visit – it’s a place to feel the joyful, delicious chaos of Osaka.

Just a few quiet steps away from Dotonbori, Namba Yasaka Shrine surprises with its giant lion-head hall, offering a calm, almost magical pause in the middle of the city’s restless energy.

Shinsekai

In Shinsekai, under the glow of the Tsutenkaku Tower, is where Osaka shows its nostalgic side. Retro neon signs, shooting galleries, and tiny kushikatsu restaurants (casual eateries serving deep-fried skewers) create a refreshingly authentic old-school fairground atmosphere, inviting you to wander, snack and simply enjoy a different rhythm of Osaka. It's my favourite district in Osaka.

I try Takoyaki at Takoyaki Senju, with an ice-cold beer. Takoyaki is one of Japan’s most beloved street foods and is particularly popular in Osaka, where it originated. These golden, bite-sized balls are made from a savoury batter and filled with tender octopus, green onions and pickled ginger. They are cooked in special round moulds until they are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. They are typically served piping hot and topped with a rich takoyaki sauce, creamy mayonnaise, dried seaweed and bonito flakes that dance from the heat. Love it, absolutely delicious!

Dotonbori at Night

Back in Dotonbori for more crazy night atmosphere.

Before I take the train home I try another famous dish, Okonomiyaki at Okonomiyaki Mizumo in Dotonbori. I'm seated at the bar and can watch them make the okonomiyaki right in front of me. Okonomiyaki are hearty Japanese savoury pancakes made from a batter containing cabbage and various other ingredients, such as pork, seafood or noodles. They are popular in Osaka and Hiroshima, where they are cooked on a griddle and topped with a sweet and savoury sauce, mayonnaise, seaweed and bonito flakes. The name means 'grilled as you like it's a fitting description of this customisable comfort food.

After a long day of taking photos and walking, I’m back in Kyoto by 10 pm.

Himeji

- The White Heron Castle -

We take the Shinkansen to Hiroshima, which takes only two hours, stopping halfway at Himeji to visit Himeji Castle. As this seems to be quite a popular thing to do, there are plenty of luggage lockers available at the station. The castle is just a 15-minute walk from the station.

Often called the 'White Heron Castle' because of its elegant white exterior, it is one of Japan’s best-preserved and most iconic samurai fortresses. Completed in the early 17th century, the castle has survived wars, earthquakes and modern development untouched, making it a rare original rather than a reconstruction, similar to Matsumoto Castle and in contrast to Osaka Castle. The complex includes a towering main keep and a maze-like layout designed to confuse intruders. It would be great to be here for the cherry blossom season, as the castle is surrounded by cherry trees.

We spent about 3.5 hours in Himeji, which was just fine, before taking the Shinkansen to Hiroshima. I buy one of the popular bento boxes containing a selection of tasty treats. Perfect for the train!

Hiroshima

- Memory meets Modern Japan -

From the train station we take a taxi to our hotel. The Kuretakeso, has a gorgeous view of the concrete wall of the building next door, just 1 metre away. However, it's just within walking distance of Freedom Park, where several monuments commemorate the atomic bombing of Hiroshima that took place on 6 August 1945, towards the end of World War II. The United States dropped a uranium-based bomb called 'Little Boy' on the city, causing a massive explosion that destroyed most of Hiroshima in seconds. Tens of thousands of people were killed instantly, and many more died later from injuries and radiation exposure.

No visit to Hiroshima is complete without a visit to the Peace Memorial Museum, which documents the events and aftermath of the atomic bombing. Through personal stories, photographs and preserved artefacts, the museum provides a powerful and emotional insight into the human impact of the bomb. The museum's purpose is not only to commemorate the tragedy, but also to promote peace and the global abolition of nuclear weapons.

Despite the large number of visitors, the museum is almost completely silent. Hardly anyone speaks, as everyone seems to be deeply moved.

Miyajima Island

The sound of raindrops on the window wakes me up. As the weather forecast is not promising for the morning, we decide to postpone our day trip to Miyajima Island and do it in the afternoon instead. There is a speed boat directly from freedom park, but booking tickets is a bit tricky and taking the bus/train and frequent standard ferry from Miyajimaguchi is the significantly cheaper options which also allows for more flexibility, although it takes a bit longer.

Miyajima is a small island near Hiroshima which is famous for its iconic 'floating' torii gate. When the tide is high, the gate appears to be standing on the water, creating one of Japan's most photographed views. The island is also home to the historic Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose graceful design blends harmoniously into the natural surroundings. Miyajima is also known for its friendly, free-roaming deer; its scenic hiking trails leading up Mount Misen; and its traditional streets offering local treats such as grilled oysters and maple leaf-shaped cakes (momiji manju).

The advantage of the weather today is that the local Sunday visitors seem to be staying at home. At least it’s not overly busy.

We take the ropeway up to Mount Misen and 'enjoy' the zero view, as it is still completely clouded. The hike down through the lush forest is quite nice, and we even encounter a rather tame deer that is still wearing its antlers.

In the afternoon, the weather clears up, offering a spectacular view of the famous tori standing illuminated in the water.

In the morning, we visit Hiroshima Castle and the Shukkei-en Garden before taking the Shinkansen to Kumamoto on the island of Kyushu.

Kyushu

- Japan's Wild South -

Kumamoto

The train takes only 2 hours from Hiroshima to Kumamoto. Collecting our rental car from Toyota is straightforward again, and we welcome our new team member for the next four days: another white Toyota Corolla.

Our hotel, the Hotel Sotetsu Grand Fresa, is conveniently located right next to the shopping arcade. We enjoy strolling through it as it is much less busy and far more relaxed than the other cities.

In the late afternoon, we try to visit Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s most famous fortresses. There are still visible signs of the 2016 earthquake, and the ongoing repairs demonstrate the care being taken to restore the towers and walls, a process scheduled to continue until 2050. I guess they have hired the team building the Berlin airport.

Unfortunately, visitors aren’t allowed to visit after 4 pm, which is a bit disappointing. We can't walk around the whole of the grounds, and the view from a distance is very limited. Bad luck. Instead, we kill the time in the shopping arcade and walk around a brightly lit area that, with the help of google translate, is quickly identified as Kumamoto's red light district.

Mt. Aso and Sourroundings

The Kikuchi Gorge is about an hour and a half's drive from Kumamoto. The one-hour trail winds its way along a river through lush forests and past several waterfalls. We only see a handful of locals on the way and enjoy the peaceful surroundings. What a difference compared to our last few busy days in Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima!

Yummy fish! And a friendly local seller who asks me where I'm from and then gives me a discount for no apparent reason.

Next, we stop at several viewpoints overlooking Mt. Aso, one of the world’s largest active volcanoes and the largest in Japan. Unfortunately, it is too cloudy to see the caldera rim, which stretches about 25 kilometres across and contains several volcanic peaks. The highest of these is Mount Takadake. Nakadake, the most active crater, frequently emits smoke and volcanic gases, and is accessible to visitors when conditions are safe, as they are today.

We can drive all the way up to the crater rim. En route, we must stop at a medical booth where we are asked if we suffer from health issues such as asthma. The volcano emits poisonous gases, and there are four safety levels indicated by different warning lights (blue, yellow, orange and red). Currently, it's blue (uncritical); orange and red would require immediate evacuation. There are concrete bunkers on the crater rim which I assume are there to protect against lava bombs in the event of a sudden eruption. I wouldn't want to find out what would happen, but the situation reminds me of my trip to Tanna Island in Vanuatu. The only protection there was to keep a constant lookout for lava bombs in case one made it to the crater rim. Therefore, the safest time was after sunset, when the glowing bombs were more visible. This would certainly not work in safety-oriented Japan.

Today, however, we are lucky, as we can observe the poisonous, steaming, highly acidic crater lake. It's not my first time, but I'm still impressed by the power of nature so close up.

On the way to our guest house for tonight, we stop at an impressive cedar tree and the popular Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. The shrine is located at the end of a long, scenic staircase in an old, dark forest.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, Kyushiu, Japan

Takachiho to the Miyazaki Coast

We start the day with a visit to the nearby Takachiho Shrine and Gorge. Takachiho Gorge is one of Japan’s most breathtaking natural wonders. Carved by ancient lava from Mount Aso, this narrow gorge features dramatic basalt cliffs that rise up alongside the clear waters of the Gokase River, creating a stunning landscape. The highlight is the stunning Manai Falls, which gracefully descend into the emerald waters below. Visitors can hire small boats to glide through the gorge and get a close-up view of the waterfall, or follow a walking trail along the rim to enjoy equally spectacular views from above. The boats often get booked up days in advance, and today there is a sign indicating that no boats are available. It's no wonder it gets busy so early, even at opening time at 08:30. We enjoy the view from the top.

Beyond its beauty, Takachiho is also deeply connected to Japanese mythology — it’s said to be where the sun goddess Amaterasu once hid in a cave, bringing darkness to the world.

A three-hour drive, mostly along the Miyazaki coast, with a stop at Cape Hyuga, takes us to Aoshima Island.

Aoshima Island has a quiet, almost mystical charm — especially on a grey, rainy day. The island is surrounded by the famous 'Devil's Washboard' rock formations, whose layered ridges appear even more dramatic in the soft rain and mist.

A narrow bridge leads to the small island, where the lush subtropical forest and peaceful Aoshima Shrine create an almost dreamlike atmosphere of calm. Few visitors move slowly under umbrellas, enjoying the stillness. Despite the rainy weather, the temperature is very pleasant.

In the distance, we can see surfers riding the waves. The Miyazaki coast is a popular destination for surfers, offering consistent, high-quality waves, a warm climate and uncrowded beaches — a rare combination in Japan.

Aoshima Island, Miyazaki Coast, Kyushu, Japan

Just before dark, we reach our guesthouse for the night. The Little Garden is located a short distance uphill from the coast and offers spectacular views of the coast from our large room and the spacious communal area. The kitchen is also perfectly equipped. In the background, jazz and later some yoga music is playing. It becomes my favourite place to stay during the trip and I would have loved to stay an extra day just to relax.

Miyazaki Coast to Sakurajima

It's going to rain a lot today. We're starting late, first visiting the Udo Shingu Shrine. The shrine feels like a hidden treasure, especially on a grey, rainy day. The soft drizzle makes the red torii gates and the vibrant orange walls of the shrine glow in contrast to the dark, misty cliffs and the stormy Pacific Ocean below. The path down to the shrine winds along the cliffside, offering views of the crashing waves below. At the heart of the shrine, visitors can toss clay balls for good luck in a simple ritual that feels particularly poignant in the soft drizzle.

Due to the weather, we skip Cape Toi and head straight to our hotel, the Fairfield Inn, which is close to Sakurajima.

On the way, we stop at a lovely local café run by two friendly ladies. We learn that they hardly ever see European tourists here. The food and matcha latte are excellent. We are even invited to stay for dessert and asked to take a photo. What a little gem.

Our hotel, Fairfield by Marriott, has decent rooms and usually offers a great view of Sakurajima, Kagoshima's "house volcano". Looking at the dark clouds this evening, it's hard to believe the weather forecast, which predicts a perfectly blue sky tomorrow. Let's see.

Sakurajima to Kagoshima

Wow! The weather forecast couldn't have been more accurate. We wake up to sunshine, a perfectly blue sky, and a fantastic view of Sakurajima, one of Japan's most active and iconic volcanoes.

Sakurajija was once an island, but became connected to the Osumi Peninsula after a major eruption in 1914, when lava flows filled the strait. Today, it towers over Kagoshima City, frequently emitting small ash plumes and providing a dramatic sight. We stop at several viewpoints before taking the quick ferry to Kagoshima.

Two days later, Sakurajima will erupt spectacularly during the night, bringing the airport to a complete standstill. Fortunately, there will be no casualties, and we will have left in time without flight issues.

I return the car to Toyota without any problems, and then we check in to the Henna Hotel, which is staffed by a samurai and a velociraptor. Funny!!!

In the afternoon, we explore the city and do some last-minute shopping at Don Quijote, which is located just across the street from the hotel — what a coincidence!

In the afternoon, I have a fantastic Kagoshima Wagyue beef, which won the last Japan Wagyue beef Olympic. The texture and taste are amazing. Without a doubt, the best beef I have ever had.

Kagoshima at Night

Today, we have to say goodbye to Japan. After checking out, we are wished a nice day by the very polite Velociraptor. We then take the airport bus, which starts just 100 metres away from the hotel.

Kagoshima Airport is rather small; the international terminal only handles a handful of flights daily. Customs and security are processed quickly, but our China Airlines flight is delayed by one hour. It's no big deal though, as I'm staying another two nights in Taiwan, while Mel, who is going straight to Germany, has an eight-hour transfer until her flight.

Japan - Final Words

The four weeks in Japan felt perfectly balanced between megacity energy and deep, quiet nature: from the nonstop rhythm of Tokyo to the cultural depth of Kyoto, from the misty forests and temples of Nikko to the unforgettable sunrise at Mount Fuji. The emotional weight of Hiroshima and the relaxed, nature-focused days on Kyushu completed the picture.

Japan impressed us most with its flawless organization, kindness of people, incredible food and the ease of combining world-class cities with surprisingly wild, peaceful landscapes – a long trip that never once felt too long.

Japan is a popular destination nowadays, so it's not always possible to avoid the crowds. Nevertheless, hiring a car helped us escape the hustle and bustle for a while. Timing is also essential. Early morning or late afternoon are preferable times for visits if you want to avoid the peak rush.

Next time, I would like to visit Hokkaido and Okinawa, which are normally not included in the itinerary of first-time visitors, and are therefore a bit less busy, too.