10%

Indonesia - Flores and Bali

Part 2 - Five weeks through Raja Ampat, Sulawesi, Flores and Bali - April/Mai 2023

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

February 4^th, 2024

Back to Part 1 - Raja Ampat and Sulawesi

Itinerary

Part 1

Raja Ampat (14 days)

8d - Kri Island - Turtles Homestay
2d - Rufas Island - Lagoon Homestay
3d - Wasai - PapuaArts Alternative Stay

Sulawesi (6 days)

2d - RammangRammang - Nasrul House Homestay
4d - Toraja Land - Ne Pakku Homestay

Part 2

Flores (9 days)

2d - Maumere - Coconut Garden Beach Resort - I had to skip due to a flight cancelation
1d - Kelimutu Vulcano - Santiago Bed and Breakfast
3d - Bajawa - Bajawa-Roo Hotel
1d - Labuan Bajo - G-Rima Home Stay
2.5d - Komodo Boad Tour

Bali (7 days)

6d - Ubud - Raditya Villa Ubud
1d - Sekunpul - Sugin Gede Homestay

Flores

Including a stop at the beautiful but busy Koka Beach, it takes almost four hours to reach Moni. The road winds its way through the lush interior, with one curve following another. When we arrive, Kelimutu is covered in clouds, but it's too late to visit today. Therefore, I only arrange for a scooter for an early start tomorrow.

Kelimutu

The alarm rings at 4:15. By 4:30, I am already on the road to Kelimutu. As there are no visible stars and the road is wet from last night's rain, I fear that the sunset will not be good. However, after a 40-minute ride and a 30-minute walk up to the highest viewpoint, I decide that I have earned a nice sunrise and get it.

Kelimutu, with its elevation of 1639 meter and three differently coloured crater lakes, is a popular tourist spot, and for good reason. The two main lakes, with their greenish hue, are particularly captivating. Their colours become even more intense after 9:00 when the sun is up. Once again, the drone proves to be a valuable tool.

As it is too late now to catch a local transport to Bajawa, I decided already yesterday to hire Udin for a private transfer. It is a long ride of almost 7 hours, but we make several stops along the way to visit Wologai Village, the Blue Stone Beach and to take pictures of the scenery. Considering that Udin and his cousin have to go the same way back at night, the €80 for the private transfer feels reasonable at the end.

Bajawa

Situated at an altitude of 1100 meters, this small village on the hillside offers a pleasant temperature. It is surrounded by several verdant volcanoes, with Mt. Inerie being the highest at 2245 meters. Bajawa is the ideal starting point for visiting the traditional Ngada villages in the region. I explore Bena by scooter and later the less touristy Gurusina and Tololela. The latter can only be reached via a strenuous 30-minute hike up the mountain or by scooter on a very challenging road. As my scooter is not very powerful, I decide to hike with another German I met on the way. Despite the language barrier, the locals are friendly and invite us for tea and macadamia nuts that grow in the area. I am surprised to see that people still live in wooden houses.

I cancel my plan to visit the Wolobobo viewpoint in the morning. After a quick look at the weather at 4:30, I decide that bed looks much more promising. Nevertheless, I catch the sunrise an hour later from the rooftop balcony. Although Wolobobo in the west is completely covered in clouds, the sunrise in the east looks spectacular. I praise myself for making the perfect decision this morning.

Despite the stubborn clouds, I decide to give it a try and visit the Malanage hot springs, not far from Bena village. A hot and cold river converge in a natural, lush setting, creating a perfect place to relax in the warm water. The rain adds to the atmosphere, and l have the place to myself, except for a local boy and the caretaker family who live nearby. Basic facilities are available, and the entrance fee is 20k IDR. I can highly recommend this place.

Next stop is the Heaven’s Door Bar & Restaurant, which beside an extraordinary interior and good food offers a stunning outlook. Love it.

On the way back I try to reach the Wolobobo viewpoint. However, due to the constant rain, the side road or should I better say path, is extremely muddy. Not much fun on a scooter. After a long five-kilometre ride, I finally reach the much better access road, which takes me to the top. Unfortunately, there is no view at all, zero, nada, nothing. All deeply covered in clouds. At least I can look forward to a hot shower in the guesthouse.

With the previous experience I’m a bit nervous about my flight connection to Labuan Bajo. This time I have no buffer as the Komodo boat tours starts the next day in the morning. To be prepared, in case the flight is cancelled, I make already an pre-arrangement for a private car transfer, which takes 10 hours. But this time WingAir is perfectly punctual, hurrahhh!!

Nevertheless when the pilot hits the ground running and a moment later informs the cabin that in case of an unsuccessful second trial we will fly to Maumere my enthusiasm instantly wanes. Dark clouds cover the area. Fortunately we make it only 15min before the world seems to come to an end as it starts raining cats and dogs. I’m glad when I arrive the G-Rima homestay. Only late evening the hefty rain stops for a while. The outlook for tomorrow does not look promising neither, Damn!!!

Komodo

After some research I booked a 3 day 2 night tour with Captain Komodo. They had a good rating and were one of the few tour operators with fixed dates for shared trips that could be booked in advance. While most people seem to arrange tours on-site with one of the many local operators, I did not want to waste time shopping around.

In the morning, I meet my fellow travellers. There are 12 of us, 10 Germans and 2 French. A small tender boat brings us to the Alcira, our boat for the next 3 days. The boat is basic but functional, with plenty of space. The crew makes a great first impression, helpful, attentive and always smiling. After an enjoyable and satisfying lunch, I am confident that this is going to be a great trip.

Our first destination of the day is Kelor Island, where I take a few drone shots of the island before going for a swim.

Next stop is Manjarite for snorkelling. The water is crystal clear and the scenery is mesmerising with dark bluish clouds and the sunlit green hills. It feels like paradise!

Strawberry Rocks is a unique rock formation that is much more interesting up close than it appears from a distance. We are hypnotised by the many colours and structures.

At Kalong Bay, we can witness a stunning sunset as thousands of bats emerge from their nests at dusk in search of food. This is truly a remarkable sight and a wonderful way to end a fantastic first day.

In the early morning, the boat sets off for Padar Island, home to the famous lookout that everyone wants to see in Komodo, especially for the sunrise atmosphere. However, we are not alone when we arrive as we are surrounded by dozens of tour boats. Hundreds of people are already on their way to the lookout, trying to find the best spot for their selfies. I'm surprised by the crowd; it's overwhelming. Probably weekend is not the best time to visit. However, I can see why this location is so popular; the scenery in the early morning light is truly breathtaking, especially now in April as everything looks still green and lush after the rainy season.

A brief boat ride takes us to Pink Beach. We arrive ahead of the crowd, but the area quickly fills up after us.

The sand's pink hue is subtle yet noticeable. Once again, a great opportunity to take pictures with the drone. The green background and turquoise water make for stunning shots.

No visit to Komodo is complete without encountering the famous Komodo dragon. These impressive creatures are the largest species of lizard, growing up to 3 meters in length and weighing 70 kg.

However, I find it disappointing to see the famous beasts lying lazily around, surrounded by dozens of spectators, which even makes it difficult to get a good view. Somehow I've expected it a bit more thrilling. Well, not today.

We stop at Manta Point for snorkelling with the big creatures and witness several of them, which is always amazing to watch.

Sunset and sunrise we spent at Taka Makassar, a tiny island smaller than a football field that almost submerges underwater when the sea level rises. We are the only ones who anchor here overnight, which creates a peaceful atmosphere.

A fabulous boat trip comes to an end. Highly recommended. Even the weather was much better than the forecast. By 15:00 we are back at Labuan Bajo and several of us, including myself, head straight for the airport to catch our afternoon flights.

My flight goes straight to Bali, the last destination on this trip.

Bali

Finally Bali, 27 years after my last visit. It was busy then, but with recent stories of overtourism, I'm curious to see how bad it really is now. My favourite place back then was the lush green interior around Ubud, so I decided to base myself here and make day trips, especially to the less touristy northern part. After quite some research (there are hundred of options in the area) I decided to stay at the Raditya Villas in the rice fields just outside of Ubud.

The owner's daughter and her friend pick me up from the airport in the late afternoon. It takes about an hour to get to Ubud through the heavy traffic of Denpasar, the capital. Two scooters and drivers are waiting to take me and my luggage 2km down a small path to the villas. The path is just wide enough for two scooters or pedestrians to pass each other.

I love the location and the accommodation itself is lovely with its cosy boutique style. There is even a nice outdoor shower. The distance to town doesn't bother me as I've rented a scooter for the whole time to explore the island. It will be delivered to the place tomorrow morning and costs only 6€ per day. Anyway, the road through the rice fields is very scenic and dotted with cute restaurants and art shops.

The area offers a wide range of food options, including classical Bali food at Ubud Shanty Warung, a great spot for an ice-cold sunset beer at Sunset Cafe and Bungalow, and fantastic shakes and food with a great view at Lebah Warung. These places are located a bit outside of town, away from the hustle and bustle.

Ubud town has undergone significant changes. Although my memories may be blurred, the once sleepy town has transformed into a bustling tourist hub. The main roads are now congested with restaurants, bars, shops, and spas, making it challenging to find parking even for a scooter. I would not want to experience it during peak season. However, taking a short walk into the rice fields still offers a peaceful and relaxed atmosphere, providing a glimpse into the past that still attracts me today.

As a popular destination in Ubud, I arrive early and are one of the first visitors to the Monkey Forest this morning. The lush, green forest provides ample photo opportunities, particularly with the curious monkeys, which are entertaining to watch. I spend approximately two hours here.

Spas are popular in Ubud and I couldn't resist trying Karsa Spa, one of the most popular ones. Karsa Spa is a popular destination, so I booked the Spicey Balinese Boreh treatment package, which includes a Balinese massage and a hot spice bath, two weeks in advance. The spa is beautifully located and has spotless facilities and tasteful decorations, making for a very relaxing experience. After two hours, I leave deeply relaxed with skin as soft as a baby's. Highly recommended. A delicious fruit juice at the close-by Lebah Warung is perfect for rounding-off the experience.

Tegalalang Rice Terrace is a popular Instagram spot located 45 minutes from Ubud by scooter. I arrive shortly after sunrise and have the scenic place almost to myself. Especially the drone offers stunning perspectives. When I leave two hours later it becomes already quite busy.

Next I stop at Puru Gunung Kawi Sebatu a scenic temple.

The Tirta Empul Temple, a Hindu Balinese water temple, is renowned for its holy spring water and is a popular destination for both locals and tourists seeking ritual purification. I like the atmosphere.

Sidemen in the east of Bali is considered a hidden gem. The authentic culture of Bali has remained intact, relatively unaffected by Western influences. I enjoy exploring the area by scooter. The traffic is light and the scenery is beautiful. Unfortunately, I am only on a day trip, so my time here is limited. My favourite attraction is the Gambling Waterfall, with its scenic rock pools. Closer to Ubud, it would probably be completely overrun, but here I only have to share it with a handful of people.

Next time, I rather would spend 3 to 4 days in the area.

Today I start a two day tour to the north of Bali. As distances are long I decide to stay overnight in Sekumpul, to explore the famous waterfalls in the area before I return to Ubud.

An two our drive early morning brings me to Ulun Danu Beratan Bedugul a Temple in a crater lake.

Today, I am about to start a two-day trip to the north of Bali. As the distances are long, I decided to stay overnight in Sekumpul to explore the famous waterfalls in the area before returning to Ubud.

An early morning two-hour drive brings me to Ulun Danu Bratan Bedugul, a temple located in a crater lake at 1200m. The temperature is low at this altitude, particularly when riding a scooter. Early in the morning, there are only a few tourists. Despite the enormous parking lot being empty, I can imagine the crowds that will arrive when the tour buses from the south come. I enjoy the quiet atmosphere and take some pictures before I move on.

The next stop is the Bali Handara Gate, which serves as the entrance to a golf course and is currently popular among Instagram users. Queues may form, but at this early hour, only a few people are present. There is an entrance fee, which includes the assistance of a skilled individual who can help capture the famous water reflection picture. This picture is achieved by holding a mirror under the iPhone lens. The gate to heaven at the Penataran Agung Lempuyang temple in the very east of Bali is the most famous place for such photos. People often have to wait for up to two hours to take their turn. Nothing for me, this one is perfectly fine and the 5 min. waiting absolutely acceptable for a fun picture.

The Munduk area in the north is renowned for its numerous stunning waterfalls. Along the way, I pass the Twin Lakes, have a cup of coffee and are invited to a house temple inauguration, a nice experience.

The Banyumala Twin Waterfall are in an very idyllic setting.

To reach the Golden Valley Waterfall, I have to walk down a very steep path. There is a small restaurant that offers great views of the waterfall. They also sell their own Luwak Kopi, which is brewed from coffee beans that have passed through the gastrointestinal tract of an Asian palm civet and undergone a kind of fermentation treatment. The palm civet is believed to select the ripest and most flawless coffee cherries. The droppings are collected, washed, and roasted. Nowadays, civets are often held in cages and fed with the berries. However, the restaurant owner claims that they collect the droppings right here at the coffee plants the restaurant is surrounded by once a year, and that they only get a small quantity. I try a cup. The taste is quite earthy and a bit musty, definitely different from normal coffee. However, whether it is better or not is subjective.

Panting and swearing because of the steep climb, I reach my scooter again and set off for the Git Git Waterfall another impressive spot.

After an awe-inspiring but exhausting day, I'm delighted to arrive at Sugi Gede Guesthouse, probably the best value for money I've had on my trip. I enjoy the stunning view from my room and the conversation with the friendly owner family.

With a guide arranged through the guesthouse, I explore probably the most stunning waterfalls Bali has to offer, Sekumpul, Fiji and Hidden Waterfall. What can I say, I think the pictures speak for themselves.

On the long way back to Ubud I make a detour to the Jatiluwih rice terraces. They are much bigger than the ones in Tegalalang and are said to be even more beautiful. Well, although both are impressive, I liked the overall setting of the later one better, at least early in the morning before the crowds arrive. Nevertheless, Jatiluwih offers some nice, well-marked walks of between 0.5 and 2 hours through beautiful scenery. Small huts along the way offer snacks, coffee or cold drinks.

Back in Ubud, I visit the Saraswati,…

…and Dalem Ubud Temple, where I buy tickets for the traditional Kecak and Fire Dance tonight,…

…which is quite an experience to watch.

For my last day in Bali, I decide to take a car with a driver to cover a few longer distances and finally drop off at the airport in the evening for my flight back home.

Watching the sunrise at Mt. Batur is the plan for the first stop, which of course requires an early start. My driver is on time and we are on the road by 5am. We arrive just in time at the AKASA Kintami Coffee, which has a great viewing platform to watch the .......aehhhhh..... beautiful thick fog. That's all I see for the next hour as the whole area is covered in clouds. 27 years ago I climbed the mountain and watched a stunning sunrise over the area, but no such luck today.

Next stop is Pura Besakih, the oldest, largest and most important Hindu temple in Bali. The entrance fee includes a guide who does a good job of explaining a lot in an entertaining way. It's still early, cloudy and rainy, and I'm the only visitor, which seems rather surreal considering the size and general popularity of the complex. The weather adds to the mystical atmosphere of the place.

By the time we reach Tirta Gangga, the weather has improved considerably. But it looks like the sun is bringing the tourists too. The place is surprisingly busy. I have a coffee and watch people taking selfies on the rocks in the water in all sorts of poses. Quite entertaining.

I love lost places, and Taman Festival Bali is an impressive example. Planned as a huge amusement park in the 1990s, it never opened its doors and now the jungle has reclaimed the place. It is full of fascinating graffiti and many things to explore. A photographer's and obviously paintball enthusiast's paradise, as I see a group of them in full combat armour. I even watch a rap video being made and have a nice chat with the guys. Maybe not in the intended way, but in the end it became what it was meant to be, an amusement park. I spent about two hours here and only leave because it's time for the airport. Goodbye Bali, goodbye Indonesia, I will be back.

Final Verdict

Wow, what can I say? Definitely one of my favourite trips of the last few years. Indonesia has so much to offer. I love the people, the food, the scenery, almost everything. Remote Raja Ampat is fantastic for marine life, Sulawesi and especially Toraja is full of tradition and culture, and Flores offers stunning landscapes. I've learnt that even in Bali it's possible to beat the crowds by starting early and avoiding the high season. Especially the north and Sidamen in the east are beautiful and not overcrowded. So the Balinese charm is still alive.

Definitely not my last visit.

Button Label

Story Told With

Start publishing stories like this