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India - Rajasthan

Part 2 - Five weeks traveling through India - Dec.24/Jan.25

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

September 21^st, 2025

This travelogue is separated into three parts. Welcome to Part 2. You can find the links to the other parts below.

India Part 1 - Delhi, Amritsar, Varanasi, Khajuraho
India Part 2 - Rajasthan - Ranthambore, Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodphur and Udaipur
India Part 3 - Kerala - Kochi, Munnar, Backwaters

Ranthambore - Eye of the Tiger

It's dark when we arrive in Ranthambore. Driving during the night is no fun in India. Cows or dogs on the road, cars with only one or even no lights, cars with laserbeams, making one almost blind, crazy overtaking, speedbumps without any warnings are just some examples of the challenges during night driving.

My guesthouse is the Tiger Haveli, with friendly stuff, big rooms and a properly working hot shower. Also the food is very tasty I will find out later.

Set in the rugged landscape of Rajasthan, the Ranthambore National Park offers visitors a blend of nature, history and wildlife. Until 1975, it was used as a hunting ground by the local Maharaja. Over the next two days, I will go on three safari drives, two in the morning and one in the afternoon. There are different zones, and only a certain number of jeeps and larger canters are permitted. I have tickets for zones 10, 6 and 4. There is a lot of discussions about which Zones are the best but I believe at the end it's pure luck, as the animals can room free between the zones.

Zone 10 has quite dense vegetation. We even see a large male tiger feeding on a cow he has killed. Unfortunately, the undergrowth is so dense that we can hardly see him, and taking photos is almost impossible.

Can you spot the tiger with his prey? Very difficult to see through the bushes.

I have more luck in zone 6. There has been a sighting in the morning, and normally the tigers stay in the area during the day. We drive directly to the sighting point, where we see a wonderful tigress walking about 50 metres away, parallel to the road. When the road turns, it becomes clear that she will cross it, and we get very excited. Indeed, she crosses the road just in front of us, having paused to sip water from the small stream next to the road. It's amazing — I could almost reach her, but of course I prefer to keep my hands to myself. After a while, she vanishes into the forest.

Later, we see her again, walking along the road towards us. What a cool day!

We're not alone! Within a few minutes of a sighting, the area fills up quickly as everyone hurries there. The drivers are connected via mobile phone. Sometimes this creates chaotic situations, where every driver is fighting for the best position hoping for a good tip from the clients afterwards.

There are not only tigers in Zone 6

The perfect game drive!!!

Zone 10 is the nicest with a very diverse landscape, including some lakes. We see plenty of birds and other animals, and even a rare sloth bear in the distance, but no tigers this time. But after yesterday's great sighting, I’m relaxed anyway.

A rare sloth bear walks and quickly vanishing between the trees in the distance. They are much rarer than tigers to be seen.

Leaving the park. In the afternoon, I catch the train to Jaipur.

Jaipur - The Pink City

My guesthouse, the Home of the World, turns out to be a wonderful place with charming, helpful staff; nicely decorated rooms; free laundry; and delicious food. I love it.

Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, is often referred to as the 'Pink City' thanks to its distinctive terracotta buildings. Visitors are enchanted by majestic forts such as Amber Fort, opulent palaces like the City Palace, and architectural marvels like the Hawa Mahal. Its bustling bazaars are brimming with textiles, gemstones and spices, providing a sensory overload and a shopper's paradise.

Today, Jürgen and I take a closer look at some of these highlights, starting with the bustling bazaars. area. We dive headfirst into the colorful chaos of Johari Bazaar, where glittering bangles, hand-cut gemstones, and embroidered sarees spill out of every shop. The scent of sandalwood mixed with spicy street food leads us through narrow lanes, past turbaned shopkeepers and bargaining locals. Nearby Bapu Bazaar is a treasure trove of leather sandals, tie-dye fabrics, and quirky souvenirs. The energy is infectious — a mix of honking scooters, ringing bells, and the constant hum of conversation. I love watching daily life unfold like a scene from a Bollywood film. The bazaars are more than a shopping stop — it's the heartbeat of Jaipur. Loud, colorful, overwhelming, full of photo opportunities — and absolutely unforgettable.

Standing at the edge of Jaipur’s bustling old city, the Hawa Mahal looks like something out of a dream. Its honeycomb-like façade, rising five stories high with 953 small windows, shines pink in the morning sun — a breathtaking welcome to one of India’s most iconic landmarks.

Built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, the Hawa Mahal (meaning “Palace of Winds”) was designed as an extension of the City Palace. It was created for the royal women of the court, allowing them to observe everyday street life and festivals below without being seen — in line with the strict purdah customs of the time. The intricate jharokhas (small windows) allowed a cool breeze to flow through the palace, even in the scorching Rajasthani summers — hence the name.

The Hawa Mahal can be visited inside, including climbing to the top through narrow ramps (no stairs!). However, we've heard that it's very narrow and crowded, and far less impressive than the exterior, so we decide not to wait in the long queue. The best view is from the Wind View Café, which is located just opposite. Admission costs 200 rupees, but the view is spectacular, and the prices for food and drink are reasonable considering the location.

Just around the corner from Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar feels like stepping into a giant stone puzzle left behind by an ancient civilization. But this isn’t a relic of mythology — it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most accurate astronomical observatories ever built. Commissioned by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II in the early 18th century, Jantar Mantar is a collection of 19 massive instruments used to measure time, predict eclipses, and chart the movement of stars and planets. The most impressive of all is the Samrat Yantra, the world’s largest stone sundial, which still tells time with shocking precision — within two seconds!

Walking through the gates of Jaipur’s City Palace feels like entering a living museum of Rajput grandeur. It's a sprawling complex of courtyards, gardens, and richly decorated buildings that was once the seat of the Maharaja of Jaipur — and parts of it still serve as a royal residence today.

The architecture is a blend of Rajput and Mughal styles, with intricate archways, painted ceilings, and colorful frescoes at every turn.

The highlight of the palace is the Pitam Niwas Chowk, a courtyard with four elaborately painted gates representing the seasons and Hindu gods — each one a masterpiece in itself. Really beautiful.

Jaipur also has some cool, old-style cinemas. I regret that I didn't manage to watch a film at the famous Raj Mandir cinema.

In the evening, Jürgen and I take part in a street food tour. We have great fun with Rahed, our guide from the guesthouse. It feels like being on tour with a good friend. It's not just the food; he has an interesting story about each place we visit. Each place is special in its own way. I lost count of how many dishes we tried, but I had to skip the last one — a chocolate cake — otherwise I would have exploded.

Today, I have a car available for sightseeing and Jürgen joins me. By 08:00, there is quite a lot of traffic and it takes us almost 40 minutes to reach Amber Fort, probably the most famous tourist spot in Jaipur. En route, we pass Jal Mahal, the Water Temple, which is barely visible in the morning fog.

Amber Fort is a majestic 16th-century fort known for its blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture. Built by Raja Man Singh I, the fort is made of red sandstone and white marble and offers stunning views of Maota Lake. The interiors are adorned with intricate carvings, mirror work and frescoes. The fort can be accessed on foot, by jeep or by elephant, and remains a symbol of Rajasthan’s royal heritage.

The fort is extremely busy, and we see many couples in beautiful outfits taking what we assume are wedding photos. They usually have a team of two or three people taking care of everything. It's also a good photo opportunity for me.

I later find out that these are now very popular pre-wedding photoshoots. The results are usually shown during the wedding.

It's worth spending some time walking around the streets of Amer Village, which is located next to the fort. The Panna Meena Ka Kund stepwell and the Shri Jagat Shiromani Ji Temple are not to be missed.

Next, we visit the Gaitor. The traffic is crazy and it takes ages to cover a few metres. The Gaitor is a tranquil site known for its exquisite royal cenotaphs, or chhatris. This historic cremation ground of the Jaipur royal family is located in a picturesque valley at the foot of Nahargarh Fort. Unlike Jaipur’s bustling tourist attractions, the Gaitor offers a peaceful ambience, making it a hidden gem for history and architecture enthusiasts.

My plan to visit the Gaita Ji Temple, which is famous for its monkeys, is blown away by the traffic. So we head straight for the leopard safari in the hope of making it in time.

The Jhalana Leopard Reserve is India’s first leopard reserve and a unique urban wildlife sanctuary. Spanning only 23 square kilometres, it is home to a thriving leopard population, as well as other wildlife such as striped hyenas, desert foxes and a variety of bird species.

There are three of us in the car; one person doesn’t show up in time. Most likely stuck in the traffic. Our driver seems to have ADHD, as he repeatedly accelerates and brakes, always searching for a leopard. Several times we hurry to a sighting, but we are always too late.

I almost give up when, suddenly, he shouts, 'Leopard!' and points towards a hilltop. Indeed, there he is! He's far away, but clearly visible, and thanks to the zoom, we can even take halfway decent pictures.

In the evening, I join Rahed and a couple from South Tyrol on a night tour. Rahed tells us many interesting stories, and it's great fun, but it can't beat the street food tour yesterday.

On the way to Jaisalmer

After a relaxed morning and some souvenir shopping, I board the long overnight train to Jaisalmer.

Sitting next to me are an Indian family from Boston and a man who works in the oil industry in Brunei and is now here on an annual family holiday. There are plenty of opportunities for interesting discussions. From time to time, others join in and ask to sit next to me. Indians can be quite talkative! At one point, I've enough when a young man starts telling religious stories in great detail. I excuse myself to go to the toilet and return wearing my AirPods. He's still sitting there, clearly with more stories to tell, but finally, after five minutes, he gets the message and leaves. Phew!

Jaisalmer - The Golden City

After a good, albeit short, sleep, we arrive in Jaisalmer at 05:15. The guesthouse manager is waiting to pick me up. I’m surprised to see that he has only brought his motorcycle. 'It's going to be interesting with my big trolley,' I say, but he replies that no cars or tuk-tuks can go inside the Jaisalmer Fort, where the guesthouse is located. Somehow, we manage to get everything, including me, on board, and off we go.

I’m glad that an early check-in is possible at the Shahi Garh. Nevertheless, after the chilly scooter ride, I'm now awake, so I decide to stroll around the wonderful, narrow streets of the fort, which are slowly coming to life. I even find a decent spot to watch the sunrise, which I share with two local tourists and a Korean.

Jaisalmer, often called the 'Golden City', is a historic town, known for its yellow sandstone architecture. Dominated by the iconic Jaisalmer Fort — a living fortress housing shops, temples and residences — the city reflects the region's rich cultural heritage.

Jaisalmer is the prettiest city I have visited in India so far; every corner offers something new to explore. There are also plenty of nice restaurants and cafés. I love it, but of course I’m not alone. It’s extremely busy, especially with local tourists, right now.

the Chandraprabhu Jain Temple is a serene escape from the city’s buzz. Built in the 18th century and dedicated to the 8th Jain Tirthankara, Chandraprabhu, the temple stuns with its delicate red sandstone carvings and peaceful ambiance. Intricate floral and geometric patterns adorn the walls, showcasing classic Jain artistry.

In Rajasthan, trying bhang is stepping into an ancient tradition with a twist. Made from cannabis leaves and often mixed into lassi or sweets, bhang has been used for centuries in religious rituals and festivals like Holi. I sampled a mild bhang lassi from a government-authorized shop — sweet, creamy, and surprisingly mellow. It's a legal and culturally rooted experience, but honestly without effect for me. The next day I try a stronger one, but again the power....aehhh....bhang is not with me.

Jaisalmer is also renowned for its intricately carved havelis, such as Patwon Ki Haveli and Salim Singh Ki Haveli. I visit both during my stay.

A haveli is a traditional mansion or townhouse primarily found in India, Pakistan, and Nepal, renowned for its intricate architecture and cultural significance. Historically, these structures were built by wealthy merchants or nobles and often feature large courtyards, elaborate facades, and detailed carvings. Havelis served as residences and symbols of status, blending Mughal, Rajput, and colonial architectural styles.

I´m blown away by the beauty of the havelis. I haven't seen anything like this before.

In the afternoon, I take a tuk-tuk to Bada Bagh (600 rupees, including an hour's waiting time). It’s a historic site known for its royal cenotaphs (chhatris), which are dedicated to the rulers of the Bhatti dynasty. Built in the 16th century by Maharawal Jait Singh and completed by his descendants, the cenotaphs feature stunning architecture and intricate carvings. They are particularly beautiful in the soft late afternoon light.

After the early start and the long day, I’m really tired. The Hindu New Year is still around three months away, but when there's an opportunity to party, Indians are flexible. Some hotels have music and a buffet today for the christian new year, but reservation is required. I’m too tired, and although I have a roof terrace with a great view of the city and I can hear some fireworks at midnight, I prefer to stay in my warm, comfy bed.

After a relaxed morning, my tour of the Thar Desert starts today. The Thar Desert, also known as the Great Indian Desert, is a vast, arid region spanning northwestern India and southeastern Pakistan. With around 200,000 square kilometres, it is one of the world's largest deserts, characterised by sand dunes, sparse vegetation and extreme weather conditions.

There are six of us on the tour: two Indian couples (one of whom lives in the US) and a man from Kolkata, close to the Bangladesh border. Only three of us will stay overnight; the other three will return after dinner. On the way, we visit a boring lake and a more interesting desert fort. Finally, we switch from jeep to camels, which take us in 90 minutes to our overnight stay in the dunes. The landscape is greener than I would have expected. After a lovely sunset and a desert dinner, three of our group return as planned. The rest of us enjoy the warming fire and chat under the stars while the crew prepare the beds (mattresses and lots of blankets).

Thanks to the many blankets, the night under the stars is less cold than expected. We hear music in the distance until late at night — we learn in the morning that it was a wedding in the next village. Unfortunately, the mattresses are a bit too thin for my liking, and by 05:00, I'm struggling to find a comfortable sleeping position. My back hurts. I'm getting old!

The sunrise is beautiful. After breakfast, the camels take us back to the jeep, and we are back in town by lunchtime. All in all, it was a nice trip, especially considering the reasonable price. Well done, Trotters! There are also other tours available mostly going to the SAM dune, which is closer to town. They often include sleeping in tents and/or a dance performance. However, they are extremely busy with tourists.

In the afternoon, I relax at my favourite café.

Once again, I stroll around, enjoying the morning atmosphere at Gadisar Lake, and do some shopping for Melanie in the Punjabi market.

On the way to Jodphur

In the afternoon I take the sleeper seat train to Jodphur which I reach late in the night. This time I have some interesting chats with an Indian family now living in Boston and a Petrol engineer now working in Brunei which I visited a couple of years ago. From time to time other people ask to have a seat next to me for a chat. Indians are very communicative. Only one time when a younger guy starts to tell me spiritual stories in all their details I get enough. I excuse myself for the toilet and return with my EarPods on. He first seems to be irritated but after 5 min gets the message and moves on. Safed!!!!

Jodphur - The Blue City

At least once during the trip, I wanted to stay in a real Haveli. The Singhvi Haveli is over 500 years old and the owner has a family link to a former Maharatscha, he proudly tells me.

The rooms are really cool, as expected, and the roof top offers sweeping views over Jodphur and the impressive fortress that overlooks the whole city. Looking a bit closer at some of the wall paintings I realise that some are kinda delicate. I wonder if this was the harem room.

In the morning I go on a Bishnoi countryside tour and get picked up in a pretty cool old Nissan military jeep. The Bishnoi are known for their deep commitment to environmental conservation and wildlife protection, rooted in their religious beliefs. Founded by Guru Jambheshwar (Jambhoji) in the 15th century, the Bishnoi follow 29 principles (“Bish” means 20, and “Noi” means 9), emphasizing non-violence, compassion for living beings, and sustainable living.

Key aspects of the Bishnoi way of life include: Strict protection of trees and wildlife, often at great personal cost. Vegetarianism and reverence for nature as part of their spiritual practice. A famous example of their devotion is the Chipko Movement (1730), where 363 Bishnoi villagers, led by Amrita Devi, sacrificed their lives to save trees from being cut down. Today, the Bishnoi are celebrated as pioneers of environmental conservation in India.

First we visit a Muslim pottery, making pots to store water. The porous material is perfect to keep water cool especially in the hot summer months. I also try my luck but the result is disastrous. In a competition for the ugliest, unusable pot a clear winner. Not a job for me, I decide.

Next we visit a Bishnoi family that shows the process of creating Opium infused water, which officially forbidden, is still consumed in the area during celebrations like weddings, etc.

Our next stop is a carped weaving cooperative, where I’m shown how carpets are made. 80 families are part of the cooperative and the owner proudly explains how a German television team made a documentary about the place.

Finally we visit a factory where patch work carpets are made, reusing second hand materials. They are really nice and of course can be bought, prices seem to be fair but I need none. Fortunately there is no pressure. They also have wonderful old doors and furniture. Very nice.

Jürgen also arrived yesterday and together we explore the massive Mehrangarh Fort in the morning, which was never captured during a fight.

The fort is one of the largest and most magnificent forts in India. Perched on a rocky hill at a height of 410 feet, the fort offers panoramic views of the city, which is famously known as the “Blue City” for its vividly painted houses. The fort was built in 1459 CE by Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur, to establish a stronghold for his kingdom. Over time, successive rulers expanded and fortified it, adding palaces, gates, and other structures. The fort has stood the test of time, surviving numerous battles and weathering centuries of history.

I’m especially impressed by the countless huge spikes that reach out from the giant gates at heights of around 2 metres and above. The worthwhile audio guide reveals that these were intended to protect the doors against enemy elephants trying to break them down. It would have given the elephants a massive headache! It takes about 2.5 hours to see everything.

Next, we visit the Jaswant Thada Mausoleum,....

...the Toorji Ka Jhalra stepwell,...

...the bazaar,..

... a particularly beautiful blue-painted area,...

...and finally the Mandore gardens.

We have dinner at the Gopal Rooftop Restaurant, which has an amazing view of the city and the fort.

On the way to Udaipur

For convenience, I have arranged for a driver to take me to Udaipur today (a journey of about six hours) as I wanted to visit Ranakpur, an important Jain temple, which would otherwise require several bus changes to reach. On the way, we visit the fascinating Om Bana Dham shrine, the only place in the world where devotees pray to a motorcycle and its rider, Om Singh Rathore. Here’s the tale behind it:

The Legend of Om Bana

1. The Accident:

In 1988, Om Singh Rathore, affectionately known as Om Bana, was riding his Royal Enfield Bullet from the town of Bangdi near Pali to Chotila. Tragically, he lost control of his bike near a sharp turn on the Pali-Jodhpur highway, hit a tree, and died instantly.

2. The Mysterious Bike:

After the accident, the local police took the bike to the nearby station. However, the next day, the bike was reportedly found back at the crash site. Believing it had been moved by someone, the police impounded it again, emptied its fuel tank, and even chained it up. Despite these efforts, the bike mysteriously kept returning to the site of the accident.

3. Divine Revelation:

This strange phenomenon led locals to believe that the spirit of Om Bana was connected to the bike and that it was a divine intervention. People began worshiping the bike and Om Bana as a protector and a guardian.

The Temple’s Formation

The locals built a small shrine at the crash site, housing the Royal Enfield Bullet and a portrait of Om Bana. Over time, it became a place of pilgrimage, with travelers stopping by to pay their respects and seek blessings for a safe journey. The temple is now adorned with flowers, garlands, and offerings such as incense sticks and alcohol.

Countryside roads

After a three-hour drive, we arrive at the Ranakpur Jain Temple, which was constructed in the 15th century by the Jain merchant Dharna Shah. Considered an architectural marvel, the temple boasts 1,444 uniquely carved pillars and detailed iconography, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship. It is a significant pilgrimage site for Jains worldwide.

Despite its remote location, it’s surprisingly busy, with many foreign tourists. With the included audio guide, it takes about an hour to explore the temple.

About Jainism

Jainism, one of the world’s oldest religions, originated in ancient India and emphasizes non-violence (ahimsa), truth (satya), and asceticism as its core principles. Founded by a lineage of spiritual teachers called Tirthankaras, the most notable being Lord Mahavira (599–527 BCE), Jainism teaches the path to liberation through self-discipline and ethical living.

Jains believe in the eternal existence of the soul (jiva) and its potential to attain liberation (moksha) from the cycle of birth and death (samsara) through purification of karma. The religion upholds five main ethical vows: non-violence, truthfulness, non-stealing, celibacy, and non-possessiveness.

With a dual focus on spiritual growth and ecological consciousness, Jainism promotes vegetarianism, mindfulness, and a harmonious coexistence with all living beings. Though relatively small in numbers, Jainism has profoundly influenced Indian culture, philosophy, and practices. And it’s said that the Jain, although less then 1% of the Indian population, own 20% of the wealth in Indea.

Udaipur - The White City

Picturesque and elegant, Udaipur is known by many names, including 'the City of Lakes'. Undoubtedly one of India's most romantic cities, it is nestled between the glassy waters of its famous lakes and the ancient Aravalli Hills.

My hotel, the Hotel Barefoot Boutique, is right on the scenic waterfront, and I arrive just in time to enjoy the sunset from the Green Grotto Bistro, one of the many rooftop restaurants around the lake.

I also make it just in time for the Dharohar folk dance show at Bangla's Ki Haveli. Lots of people are already waiting to get in. I decide to join them. It's quite entertaining and definitely worth the 250 rupees.

I visit the City Palace in the morning. It's quite impressive. The audio tour really brings the building to life. However, after visiting so many forts and palaces on this trip, I'm starting to feel exhausted and am looking forward to a change of scenery in the south.

When I see a German bakery called 'Edelweiss', I can't resist having a slice of apple cake and a cappuccino. Not bad! The German owner died several years ago, and now it’s run by Indians who still use the original recipes.

I spend the rest of the day strolling around the city and getting a haircut, which includes a full face treatment. Quite an experience for about €5!

Evening atmosphere

My favourite restaurant in Udaipur, the Chirag Roof Top Restaurant. Tasty food, good music, friendly staff, great atmosphere and lake view.

Indian Curries

When people think of Indian food, they often imagine one big, spicy curry. But step into any Indian kitchen — from the bustling streets of Delhi to the coastal homes of Kerala — and you’ll quickly realize: “curry” is not one dish, but a universe of flavors.

Indian curries vary wildly by region. In the north, you’ll find rich, creamy gravies like butter chicken or paneer makhani, flavored with tomatoes, cream, and warming spices like garam masala. Travel south, and the curries turn tangier and spicier — think chettinad chicken with fennel, star anise and chilli. The west brings fiery Goan vindaloo, while the east introduces mustard-oil infused wonders like machher jhol from Bengal, which I unfortunately didn't manage to try.

What ties them together? A love for layering spices — often tempered in hot oil to release their aroma — and a deep connection to local ingredients, traditions, and family recipes passed down through generations.

I recommend trying more than just the common curries you might be familiar with from home. Be adventurous and ask the staff for their favourite dish — you might be pleasantly surprised! I liked some curries more than others, but I never had a bad one. There are enough variants to try a new one every day. But of course don't miss out the many other food options in India.

Today, I'm just going to relax, have a leisure walk over the market and do some shopping for dresses and shirts. In general, one day in Udaipur would be enough. There aren't many sightseeing spots; it's more the general atmosphere of the whole inner city that makes it a pleasant experience.

Today is the first time I have had stomach issues, after drinking masala tea this morning. I wonder how that can happen with boiling tea. Maybe the glasses were not clean or thoroughly dried after washing. I wasn't hungry all day and had some minor diarrhoea symptoms the next morning. Fortunately, it's not a big deal.

On the way to Kerala

After almost four weeks, I'm starting to get tired of the many forts, havelis, temples, etc. It's just the right time for Kerala, where I'll experience new things like tropical seaside cities, tea plantations and river channels, and finally a beach. Kerala, here I come!

Udaipur airport is a pleasant, modern, small airport with good seating in the waiting area. This time, I have to pay €33 for 5 kg of extra luggage, as only 15 kg of checked luggage is included. Root cause: too much gift shopping. No one cares about my hand luggage, so I regret having put my spare camera and one lens in the checked luggage, as my cabin luggage is usually well over the 7 kg allowance.

IndiGo seems to be a modern and well-managed airline. The seat space, comfort and punctuality are better than I have experienced recently with European airlines, including Lufthansa. We even take off 15 minutes earlier for Bangalore, and the subsequent flight to Kochi is also perfectly on time.

Follow to India - Part 3 (Kerala - Kochi, Munnar, Backwaters)

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