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India - Kerala

Part 3 - Five weeks traveling through India - Dec.24/Jan.25

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

September 21^st, 2025

This travelogue is separated into three parts. Welcome to Part 3. You can find the links to the other parts below.

India Part 1 - Delhi, Amritsar, Varanasi, Khajuraho
India Part 2 - Rajasthan - Ranthambore, Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodphur and Udaipur
India Part 3 - Kerala - Kochi, Munnar, Backwaters

Kochi - Colonial Echoes and Coastal Breezes

Kochi is significantly bigger than I expected. Kochi Fort, the interesting old part of the city, is rather small, but Kochi has a population of around 3.5 million.

The Lazar Homestay is in a great location for exploring Fort Kochi on foot. However, as it is already dark when I arrive, I only have a beer in an old-style pub, which is rather dim and full of locals who seem to be having one shot after another. The bar staff are not very talkative, and the guests mostly stare into their mobiles. I have a Kingfisher at the bar, and when I finally pay and say goodbye, I am treated as if I come here every day. It's a strange place, but I quite like it, and the beer was really cheap too.

At the waterfront, there seems to be a festival of some kind with music. I watch for a while, have some grilled corn with lemon and masala (yummy) , and finally stroll home. I haven't made up my mind about Kochi yet.

The Chinese Fishing Nets

These nets are a distinctive feature of the coastal region and a symbol of Kerala. Believed to have been introduced by Chinese traders in the 14th century — possibly under the influence of the legendary explorer Zheng He — these massive, cantilevered nets are still operated by hand using a clever system of counterweights. Today they are essential part of the local fishing industry and a popular tourist attraction. Set along the shores of Fort Kochi, they create a striking silhouette at sunrise and sunset, offering not just a glimpse into Kochi’s maritime history, but also a unique blend of engineering and tradition.

I get up early to see the sunrise and take a stroll through the old town. It’s still quiet by the Chinese fishing nets that Kochi is famous for. Only a few fishermen have started work yet.

I watch the fishermen lower and lift their nets about ten times over the course of an hour. But they catch only a few small eels. It's hard work, and it's no wonder they actively invite tourists to their platform in exchange for tips.

I take a leisurely stroll through Fort Kochi and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere before having a nap at the guesthouse. A tribute to the early start, today.

The difference between North and South India. The sellers are much more relaxed down south. No further words are needed.

Remains from the Portuguese and Dutch heritage as well as Italian missionaries.

After resting, I visit the Jewish town, which is quite touristy nowadays, especially considering that only six Jews still live here.

I have a pleasant snack at the Loving Earth Café, a popular hangout for travellers, and visit the fishing nets again at sunset. This time, I take the ferry over to the other side, which costs only 3.5 rupees.

There are almost no tourists on this side, and the ferry offers a short but good view of the fishing nets. This time, I join some fishermen on their platform to observe them close up and to get a better angle for my sunset photos. Also, they were unsuccessful during my 45-minute visit. I wonder how the three men on the platform make a living, as tourists rarely visit this side. They don't actively ask for tips, but they're happy to accept the 200 rupees I give them, which also makes me feel better.

Overall, Fort Kochi reminds me a little of Galle in Sri Lanka. It has a similar vibe, although Galle is more compact and touristy. Kochi’s charm lies not just in its architecture, but in the way it blends Indian, Arab, European, and Chinese influences into something uniquely its own. It’s a place where spice trade history meets vibrant art galleries, where mosques, temples, and churches stand side by side. In Kochi, heritage isn’t something you visit — it’s something you walk through, taste, hear, and breathe.

Munnar - Rolling Hills and Tea Trails

On the way to Munnar

My driver for the next four days, Deepak, picks me up in the morning for the drive to Munnar, the tea capital of Kerala, which is located at an elevation of around 1,600 metres. The scenery becomes increasingly lush and the temperature more pleasant as we gain elevation.

It takes a while to leave Kochi behind. The city is huge and the traffic is intense. Almost four hours later, we reach the Mistletoe Boutique Guesthouse, 20 km before Munnar. The rooms are lovely and the view of the valley from the balcony is stunning. The garden seems to be a paradise for birds.

After resting, we visit some viewpoints to enjoy the scenery, and then a spice plantation. Our guide is very knowledgeable, and together with two funny Indian ladies and an Australian guy, the tour takes more than an hour instead of the planned 30 minutes. Fortunately, the obligatory visit to the showrooms happens without any sales pressure.

This morning, I have one of the few opportunities on this trip to gain a better understanding of the political situation in India, particularly with regard to the relations between the Muslim, Hindu, Christian and Sikh communities. Joe, the owner of the guesthouse, is quite smart and well-educated. He studied psychology and later hotel administration, and has worked in different locations. He also speaks English very well. I have a very enjoyable discussion with him.

Afterwards, I visit some viewpoints with Deepak, but the sun is already very strong.

In the afternoon, I go on a village jeep tour. We drive around the countryside, sometimes on very steep paths, surrounded by beautiful greenery. We visit several waterfalls and a cave, but I turn around there as it's too busy in the narrow passages. Some sections of the route involve extreme off-roading through the dense rainforest. My driver repeatedly emphasises that this is a dangerous area, as encounters with wild elephants are not uncommon. He has experienced two fake attacks himself, with the elephants stopping just two metres away from the car. He is quite nervous as a large group roamed the area yesterday. When I suggest that we might be lucky enough to see them, he replies, 'We're lucky if we don't see them.' I can understand. The path is so bad, it would be impossible to move away quickly with the Jeep. I wonder what the best option would be. Should we get out of the Jeep and run away? Now I'm getting nervous too, but fortunately there are no elephants in the jungle today.

Next, we will approach the wild elephants in a safer environment. In the village of Anakulam, wild elephants come to the river every afternoon to drink. The spot is right next to a playground, and the rangers ensure that people keep a safe distance. Hundreds of people are waiting for them to appear, but wild animals don't keep to a schedule. So, we can only watch and wait.

It's almost dark when a murmur suddenly goes through the crowd. A group of twelve elephants appear like ghosts; not the slightest sound has announced their arrival. They head straight for the river to drink. I’m surprised to see how awed the crowd is by the scene in front of them.

After watching for about 20 minutes, I decide to leave before the majority of the crowd to avoid the traffic chaos.

This morning I take a hike through the Lockhard Tea Estate together with a guide. I arranged for it to start at sunrise, and I'm glad I did. The scenery, with the tea-covered hills bathed in soft morning light and scattered with clouds, is breathtaking. It’s also very quiet at that time, and I enjoy the leisurely walk and chat with Shyju. Despite being only 23 years old, he seems to have the life experience of someone much older. Among many other things, he tells me that in 2022, his mum was attacked by a leopard and bitten on the head. Fortunately, she made a full recovery. I later googled the news and was surprised to learn about many more attacks on humans and livestock by tigers, leopards and elephants. This is not uncommon in the area, as my host Joe confirms.

After the walk, we visit one of the region's oldest tea factories, where I also enjoy a tasting. We start with white tea (made from the top leaf and not fermented), then move on to green tea and various black teas, including orange Pekoe, the highest grade of black tea.

The Tea Processing Steps

🌿 1. Plucking

Only the top two leaves and a bud are hand-plucked from the tea plant (Camellia sinensis). Timing and skill are crucial for quality.

🧺 2. Withering

The fresh leaves are spread out on racks to wither for 12–18 hours. This reduces moisture and makes the leaves soft and pliable for rolling.

🍃 3. Rolling

Leaves are mechanically or manually rolled to break the cell walls, releasing natural juices and enzymes. This step initiates oxidation.

🌬️ 4. Oxidation (Fermentation)

The rolled leaves are spread out in a climate-controlled environment to oxidize. The leaves turn dark brown as the enzymes react with oxygen. This is what gives black tea its distinct color and flavor.

🔥 5. Drying (Firing)

The oxidized leaves are then dried in ovens or dryers at high temperatures to halt oxidation and reduce moisture to about 2–3%, preserving the tea.

🧹 6. Sorting & Grading

The dried leaves are sorted by leaf size and quality, often using machines. Grades range from whole leaf to dust, each suited for different uses.

📦 7. Packaging

The finished tea is packed to protect it from light, air, and moisture — ready to be brewed and enjoyed around the world.

☕ Final Note

Each step influences the flavor, aroma, and strength of the tea. From Darjeeling’s delicate floral notes to Assam’s bold maltiness, black tea is a product of careful craftsmanship rooted in tradition.

Back at the hotel, I have a rest, and then in the evening I join a traditional Kerala dance performance and martial arts show. I enjoyed both, although I preferred the first one as it wasn't just about the dancing and colourful costumes; it also used amazing facial expressions to tell a story. I haven't seen anything like it before. Pretty cool!

We have an early start for sunrise for the point Shyju recommended yesterday. Although the spot is good, some clouds at the horizon hinder for a more spectacular spectacle.

At breakfast I meet an older couple from UK, which is traveling for more than 8 years, now having given up their own homebase. They often do some housesitting while staying longer at a place. We talk almost one hour about their lifestyle and experiences. Quite interesting and I regret not staying a day longer for some more chats with them.

The Backwaters of Kerala - Palms, Reflections and Peace

The journey to the Backwater Heritage Homestay takes about 4 hours. There, I say farewell to my driver, Deepak, who did a great job.

The backwaters are a stunning network of interconnected canals, rivers, lakes and lagoons running parallel to the coast of the Arabian Sea. Spanning over 900 kilometres, this unique ecosystem is emblematic of Kerala.

The homestay is located in a quiet village away from the touristy backwater areas. The rooms are basic but clean, and the surrounding property, which is located next to the river, is beautiful, with an abundance of plants, orchids and birds, as well as comfortable loungers. Xavier and his wife, the owners, and Karmi Jee, the housekeeping help, are all very nice and helpful.

In the afternoon, I take a canoe ride to experience village life. My boatman is a small, weather-beaten old man who mumbles quietly to himself. Unfortunately, it's too overcast to see a good sunset.

Dinner tonight is fantastic. First, I am served a plate of rice, chapati and nicely grilled fish. I think to myself, 'A bit try', but soon two plates of vegetables, a kind of stew and pickles follow. Delicious!

I take a motorboat in the morning to cover more distance. Although it's too cloudy for a good sunrise, it's nice to see how the backwater village life slowly awakes.

Following the smaller channels, we go all the way to the big lake, where we can see the large houseboats that the backwaters are famous for, carrying tourists. For an hour and a half, I haven't seen anything but a few canoes, and now suddenly there are dozens of houseboats, almost like rush hour.

Back on the smaller channels, everything becomes quiet and peaceful again. The whole trip takes three hours and costs 3,000 rupees for the boat, which could be shared by four people. The disadvantage of travelling alone is that if you can’t get a group together, you pay for the whole boat, jeep, etc.

I relax on the veranda at lunchtime. When Karmi Jee passes by, a squirrel suddenly falls from the roof right onto her head, almost giving her a heart attack. The squirrel is breathing heavily but doesn't move at all otherwise. Karmi puts it aside to rest. Sometimes it shows signs of short, intense spasms, but most of the time it appears dead. When I look again after 30 minutes, it has finally gone. I wonder what happened to it. What a strange situation.

In the afternoon, two French ladies, Sophie and Nina, arrive, and we have some pleasant chats during my stay. Xavier lends me his scooter and I don't have to go far to find the perfect spot to watch the sunset.

There are several duck farms in the rural area. The ducks are led through the rice fields, which has several advantages for cultivation. The ducks eat pests and weed seedlings, aerate the soil with their scratching and fertilize the soil with their excrement. Additional they give meat and eggs. The combination of rice and ducks is therefore an ecological and economically sensible method. The sun sets idyllically to the loud chattering of the ducks.

Night atmosphere

After another scooter exploration and breakfast in the morning, I say goodbye to the Backwaters and take a tuk-tuk to Marari Beach.

Marawi Beach - Relax Time

Having seen so much litter everywhere on this trip, I am pleasantly surprised to find that Marari Beach is rather clean, and that the Sea Lap Beach Villas property is full of palm trees, hammocks, and comfortable sun loungers. The beach stretches almost to the horizon and there are only a few places to stay. Accordingly, there are only a few people and no touristy water activities.

After five busy weeks with overwhelming impressions almost every day, I am enjoying doing nothing for three days. By 'doing nothing', I mean relaxing in a hammock with an ice-cold Kingfisher beer, enjoying delicious food right on the beach and strolling along the beach occasionally to observe the limited but interesting local beach life. It's the perfect place to relax during the last few days of my trip, or, as the Italians would say, to experience the 'sweetness of doing nothing'.

Summary of the Trip

What can I say? There's the stolen iPhone, the litter-strewn cities and landscapes, the constant attempts in the north to rip you off in one way or another, the chaotic traffic that requires nonstop caution, the poor hygiene standards that make every food order a gamble with your health, and much more besides. India doesn't make it easy to like.

But then there are also the incredible number of positive impressions that last. There are bustling, colourful markets; diverse, flavourful food if you let yourself get into it; wonderfully varied landscapes; fascinating architecture and associated history; the variety of religions practised; and the fascinating serenity of Indians in the everyday hustle and bustle. And all of this can be experienced at a price level that is hard to find anywhere else in the world.

India is a controversial country that not everyone will like, but it's also incredibly fascinating and a veritable El Dorado for any travel photographer.

Will I be back? Yes, definitely! There are many more places to explore. I couldn't fit Goa and Hampi in this time. I'd also like to visit the mountain region of Ladakh, Darjeeling and the less visited eastern part, including Assam, with its many tribes.

India, I see you again!!!

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