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India - Delhi, Amritsar, Varanasi, Agra

Part 1 - Five weeks traveling through India - Dec.24/Jan.25

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

September 21^st, 2025

This travelogue is separated into three parts. Welcome to Part 1. You can find the links to the other parts below.

India Part 1 - Delhi, Amritsar, Varanasi, Khajuraho
India Part 2 - Rajasthan - Ranthambore, Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodphur and Udaipur
India Part 3 - Kerala - Kochi, Munnar, Backwaters

MOTIVATION - WHY TO GO?

India is the most populous country in the world with 1.5 billion inhabitants, the seventh biggest in terms of size, stretching from the Himalayas in the north to tropical beaches in the south, and the fifth biggest and rapidly growing economy by GDP. It has 43 UNESCO World Heritage sites, yet I have only been there twice on short business trips. It was clearly a situation that needed to be changed.

Best travel time

Due to its vast geography, India experiences a diverse climate, ranging from tropical in the south to alpine in the north of the Himalayas. The country's climate can be divided into four main seasons: Winter (December to February): It is cool and dry, with temperatures ranging from 5°C in the north to 25°C in the south. Summer (March to May): Hot and dry, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C, especially in the northern plains and desert regions. Monsoon season (June to September): Heavy rainfall across most regions, with occasional flooding in some areas. Post-monsoon / autumn (October to November): Pleasant weather with receding rains and mild temperatures.

Best travel times: October to March is ideal for most regions, with pleasant weather for exploring cultural landmarks, beaches and hill stations. April to June is ideal for mountain destinations such as Himachal Pradesh, Ladakh and Uttarakhand, offering a way to escape the summer heat. July to September offers lush greenery and fewer crowds for monsoon tourism, particularly in Kerala and the Western Ghats.

Facts and Figures

Size: 3.3 million sq km (world rank: 7)
Population: 1.5 billion (world rank: 1)
Capital and biggest city: Delhi (population 33 million) (world rank 2)
Religions: 80% Hinduism, 14% Islam, 2% Christianity and 2% Sikhism.
Language: Hindu, English are most spoken
Currency: Indian Rupee, 1€ = 100 INR (07/2025)

Fun facts:

India is the world's largest democracy.
India has 22 official languages and over 19,500 dialects spoken across the country.
Yoga originated in India over 5,000 years ago and is now practised worldwide.
India produces more films than any other country, with Bollywood being its largest film industry.
Chess was invented in India and was originally called Chaturanga.
The Kumbh Mela festival attracts millions of pilgrims and is so large that it is visible from space.
India is the world's largest producer and exporter of spices, earning it the nickname the 'Land of Spices'.

Itinerary

As India is such a huge country, it’s clear that not everything can be fitted into a five-week itinerary. The Himalayan region was not an option due to the time of year, so I decided to focus on the north, mainly Rajasthan, but also including Amritsar to see the Golden Temple, Agra to see the Taj Mahal, and Varanasi, which is considered the holiest city by Hindus. I also wanted to see the backwaters, tea plantations and beaches in the south.

India is normally a country where it is simple to organise individual travel, but due to time constraints for detailed planning, I decided to use the services of India Someday, which I came across during my research and which has received many good reviews. They create an itinerary based on time, interests and budget, including transport proposals, accommodation and activities, for a fixed fee. You can change the plan as often as you like, and only a payment is required once it is finalised. It took me about 3–4 iterations to finalise the plan. I left out Goa and Hampi, as recommended by India Someday, due to the time available. I received a really nice day-by-day overview, including all individual prices. Transport between places was a mix of trains, flights and drivers.

Before the trip, I received all the travel documents, tickets and PDF guides for each place.

I was pleasantly surprised by the intensive contact via WhatsApp during the trip, which provided me with the latest information and contacts regarding pick-ups, drivers, tours, and boarding cards for flights, as well as checking that everything was going well. No matter whether I arrived during the day or at 2 am, a pick-up was always waiting for me.

Although all of this can be organised individually without much difficulty, I must admit that it was an extremely comfortable and relaxing way to explore the country, and I would highly recommend India Someday to anyone who wants an individualised trip without the hassle of detailed planning and booking transport, hotels, etc.

My itinerary is shown below. I would do it the same way again, perhaps with one less day in Udaipur.

Day 1: Flight Frankfurt - Delhi
Day 2-3: Delhi - Life Tree BnB
Day 4-5: Amritsar - Johlz Homestay
Day 6-7: Varanassi - Kedareswar BnB
Day 8: Overnight Train to Khajuraho
Day 9-10: Khajuraho - Khajuraho Rancho
Day 11-12: Agra - Aradhana's Homestay
Day 13-14: Ramthambore - Hotel Tiger Haveli
Day 15-17: Jaipur - Home of the World
Day 18-19: Jodhpur - Singhvi's Haveli guest house
Day 20-22: Udaipur - Barefoot Boutique
Day 23-24: Cochin - Lazar Residency
Day 25-27: Munnar - Mistletoe Homestay
Day 28-29: Kumarakom - Backwater Heritage Homestay
Day 30-32: Marari - Marawi Sea Lap Beach Villas

Flight to Delhi

By far the best flight offer I could find was with Etihad. A modern B787 brings me to Abu Dhabi. The seats are comfortable, and it’s the first time I have an entertainment system that lets me connect my own Bluetooth headphones. This is great, considering the poor quality of typical airline headsets in economy class. The price comes with a longer waiting period in Abu Dhabi, but there are worse places than the modern, well-organised airport. The 3.5-hour onward flight to Delhi is on a smaller A320 with rather hard seats – I can already feel my buttocks, and we haven't even taken off yet – and no entertainment system. Come on, Etihad, you can do better! Anticipating this, I downloaded a bunch of Bollywood movies during my time in the terminal, to fully immerse myself in the culture. So, I’m prepared.

I expect the worst when the flight attendant apologises for delays during immigration as we disembark. ‘The airport is very busy and it takes longer than usual.’ Not sure where this information is coming from, I scan my biometrics at a booth, fill out the immigration card and wait three minutes in front of immigration for my e-Visa. I collect my luggage within another ten minutes. Hard to beat! I'm in!

Delhi - A Journey Through India’s Timeless Capital

An organised driver is waiting for me at the exit with a name plate, and he takes me to the Lifetree B&B where I can check into my room immediately. I have an organised tour booked for tomorrow, but I've since learned that some of the sights, especially the Red Fort, are closed on Mondays. I decide to take the metro into Old Delhi and visit them by myself. The metro is convenient and only costs 20 rupees.

The Red Fort (Lal Qila) in Delhi is a historic fortification and a symbol of India’s rich Mughal heritage. Built between 1638 and 1648 by Emperor Shah Jahan, it served as the main residence of the Mughal emperors for around 200 years. It has played a significant role in India's history, being the site of major events including the First War of Indian Independence in 1857. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a popular tourist attraction.

There is an additional queue for foreigners, who pay an entrance fee of 600 rupees (compared to 50 rupees for locals). This is quite a difference, but common in India and still acceptable given what you get to see. The fort is busy with people. I am asked several times to take selfies with people, mostly youngsters. I feel like a rock star — it must be the long hair!

I’m not completely overwhelmed by the fort, but it’s definitely worth a visit.

Later, I visit a Sikh temple, the Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib. There is an additional entrance for tourists where I receive some useful information about the religion and instructions on how to behave correctly in the temple. Taking pictures is permitted, but selfies are not. I am given a scarf to wear on my head and I have to leave my shoes and socks outside, as I must wash my feet before entering. Entry is free.

Inside, there is loud chanting and people are praying. Like others, I sit on the floor and listen. The atmosphere is pleasant and peaceful.

On the way to the mosque. Monkeys roam the old city, which is why many windows are barred, I believe.

The Jama Majid Mosque is not far away. Built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan between 1644 and 1656, it is one of the largest and most iconic mosques in India. With the capacity to accommodate around 25,000 worshippers, it is a key site for Muslim prayers, particularly during important occasions such as Eid. The mosque’s design reflects the brilliance of Mughal architecture, featuring intricate calligraphy and grand domes. Entry costs 300 rupees. I especially like the peaceful atmosphere in the courtyard, where many families are having picnics.

Next to the mosque is the bustling Meena Bazaar. I make sure that my wallet and mobile phone are in the closed side pockets, as this area is a hotspot for pickpockets.

After passing through a particularly cramped area, I routinely check my right pocket, only to find it open and empty — my phone is gone! I'm shocked for a moment, then I check my left pocket. Also open, damn, that can't be true. I feel a little relieved when I can still feel my wallet inside. I turn around and scan the people around me, but of course there's nothing. I realise that my mobile is gone and there's nothing I can do about it. I leave the area as quickly as possible, keeping my hand on my purse in my pocket.

My thoughts now turn to what I can do without my mobile phone. All my travel plans and bookings are on it. I need it to find my way around, to keep in touch and so on. I quickly realise that I can't manage without it and that I will need a new one. I don't really fancy the police and the Indian bureaucracy. I can't imagine that it will be of any help. I decide to talk to my guide tomorrow and possibly go to the police station together.

For this afternoon, I have booked a street food tour and I take the metro to the meeting point. Luckily, I have memorised it. Of course, I'm not really in the mood for it right now; my thoughts are preoccupied with the stolen mobile. I'm annoyed with myself that this could happen to me despite all my travel experience. I feel so stupid.

On the street, an older man next to me drops a pen. He bends down, but I have already picked it up. He thanks me and asks me where I'm from and what I think of India. Well, what could I say after my experience? So I tell him about it. He looks quite concerned and says that I should definitely go to the police station — there's one 200 metres away — and offers to take me there. I still have half an hour until my tour, so I agree, and so begins my odyssey with my friendly helper.

The police send us to another police station, which we reach by tuk-tuk. There, I have to write a description of my case on a blank piece of paper. We are then sent to the station closest to the crime scene. At first, the police there want to turn us away, saying that their colleagues are in a meeting. However, my new friend is pushy and just marches on. I later find out that he is a lawyer working for an NGO. I've obviously met the right person.

We speak to the boss, who assigns us an officer to walk with us to the crime scene and find out which cameras may have recorded the incident. Next, we go back to a video room. There, he plays back the videos from the time I specify, and the three of us try to identify me in the crowd. But the recordings are too poor. After a while, he tries another camera and actually recognises me. Good eyes! He keeps going back and forth, frame by frame, looking at the people around me. He looks for anyone who moves conspicuously or stands out. I learn that the thieves usually work in teams of three or four people. I feel like a real police investigator now — how exciting!

He points out some suspicious individuals, but I don't recognise anyone. We try the other camera, which shows the area shortly after the first camera, but despite knowing the exact time, the quality is too poor to make anything out. Damn camera! It would have been so cool to catch these bastards. Frustrated, we give up, but I'm told that another team will take another look.

I'm sure that, with a better camera and even facial recognition software linked to a database of convicted people, there would have been a realistic chance to identify the right suspects. With additional AI and pattern recognition, I could imagine that a system can identify suspects quite reliable and even automatic. I heart, that China is using such kind of systems already.

We request a report, which could be important as it is a company phone. The officer advise me to make a loss report rather than a theft report. If I filed a theft report, I would have to come back in person if the phone was found, but if I file a loss report, they can send it to me. I wonder if that is the only reason. But I'm happy enough to receive any official report. Of course, it takes forever for the report to be ready, but I have already missed the start of my street food tour anyway. I feel a bit bad about my helpful friend having to stay with me until everything is sorted, but he insists.

After dealing with the police, we go to a shop to look for a replacement iPhone. However, they only have new ones, and I'm not prepared to spend that much money. They recommend a reliable refurbishment shop, which we visit next. In the end, I buy a used iPhone 13, which is slightly cheaper than it would be in Germany. It even comes with a warranty, which, of course, is no help to me.

It's late now; we've been on the 'save my trip' mission for four hours. The only thing missing now is a new SIM card. I politely decline my helper's offer to help me with that though, as I can do it tomorrow with my guide.

I'm a little disappointed that he's asking for quite some money now for his support. It's not the money itself that I'm unhappy about — I'm happy to give it to him after everything he's done, especially as it restores my confidence that I can continue my journey without any problems and that we've done everything we can to catch these bastards. At least it eases my mind. It's more the growing feeling that people here see foreigners only as a business opportunity and are not interested in them as people or in doing things out of politeness. It's something I never felt in Sri Lanka, for example.

I pay him and we decide to have dinner together at a place he recommends. The thali we have is really good, with generous portions. I'm still glad I met him.

Back at the guest house, I set up my new iPhone. Thanks to a good internet connection, I retrieve the data from the cloud overnight. Saved!

A guided tour of Delhi is planned for today. Together with my guide, Sylvester, and the driver, we …

...visit Old Delhi and the spice market, which is best described as a chaotic spectacle with myriad things and scenes to explore.

...look at the enormous Akshardham Temple complex from a distance. I learn that it is almost like a Hindu pilgrimage theme park, with water shows, boat rides, and interactive galleries that narrate the life of Swaminarayan and Hindu philosophy using robotics, dioramas and films.

...explore the Humayun Mausoleum, also known as the Little Taj, which combines Persian and Indian architectural elements and served as a precursor to later Mughal masterpieces such as the Taj Mahal.

Finally, we walk around the Lodhi Gardens, a local favourite for spending leisure time together.

Before dropping me off at my homestay, we look for a SIM card for me. The driver takes me to a shop where I am offered a SIM card for 1,550 rupees (€17) with 1.5 GB of daily data for 28 days. That's not bad compared to many other countries I’ve visited, I think. Unfortunately, registering with my passport does not work. Damn!

Later in the afternoon, I go with my host to an official Airtel store nearby to try again, only to find out that the same package costs 350 rupees officially, which is by far the cheapest price I’ve experienced anywhere in the world. Wow! But, of course, this is India. They tried to cheat me before, and sadly this adds to the overall impression I'm forming of the people here.

Unfortunately, the registration of my passport number doesn't work here either. I'm starting to get frustrated. We try the Vodafone store next door. It costs 550 rupees, including local calls and 2 GB of data per day, and fortunately the registration works here. I'm finally reconnected and sooooo relieved.

Where are the Moguls from?

By the way, I also learnt today that the Moguls originated from Mongolia, which really puzzled me given the nomadic lifestyle of Mongolians and their use of yurts. There are no solid structures in Mongolia from the time of Genghis Khan. Monuments such as the Humayun Mausoleum and the Taj Mahal therefore do not fit into my scheme at all. Nevertheless, a quick check with Chat GPT (below) confirms it. It still feels strange to me.

The Mughals (or Moguls) originated in Central Asia, specifically in a region that now includes Uzbekistan. They were a Turco-Mongol dynasty descended from two notable lineages:

1. Turko-Mongol lineage: The Mughals were direct descendants of Genghis Khan, the founder of the Mongol Empire, via their maternal line.

2. Timurid lineage: They were also descended from Timur (Tamerlane), a Central Asian conqueror who founded the Timurid Empire, via their father's side.

Babur, the founder of the Mughal Empire, was born in the Fergana Valley (present-day Uzbekistan) and traced his lineage to Timur on his father’s side and to Genghis Khan on his mother’s. In 1526, Babur defeated Ibrahim Lodi, the ruler of the Delhi Sultanate, at the First Battle of Panipat, thereby establishing Mughal rule in India.

Over time, the Mughals assimilated into Indian culture, blending their Central Asian roots with local traditions and profoundly influencing Indian art, architecture and society.

With the train to Amritsar

My destination for today is Amritsar. We leave the train station on time. The area next to the tracks resembles a garbage dump, with cows, tents, and solitary figures standing out eerily against the fog as they dig through the rubbish. It's like something out of an apocalypse; Delhi is showing its rough side. I sit alone in the train compartment, listen to lounge music and become pensive.

Later, we pass fields shrouded in fog, small villages, train stops and, of course, more garbage. Everything looks rundown and desolate.

Staff are constantly walking up and down the train, offering sweets and snacks for sale. Tea is served free of charge in a pot. Later, I even get breakfast and lunch. The conductor asks for my name and nods with satisfaction when he sees it on his tablet. That's it. The seat next to me remains empty throughout my journey.

Amritsar - Spiritual and cultural capital of Sikhism

Gurinder, the owner of Johlz Homestay, picks me up at the station. His home is located just outside the city, in a quiet neighbourhood. He lives there with his wife, two daughters, and his parents. They have only one guest room, which is simple but clean and perfectly adequate. I feel like I'm part of their family.

In the afternoon, Gurinder takes me on a heritage tour of Amritsar, showing me some old buildings in the old town. It's not the most exciting thing, to be honest, but I love observing life in the narrow old streets. There are children playing, a group of old men having an intense chat and a cow coming around the next corner. It becomes especially interesting when Gurinder stops at some street food stalls after I tell him that street food tours have become very popular. I try some really nice dishes, my favourite being the simplest one: A roasted sweet potato with lemon and masala spices. It's mouthwateringly delicious.

Later, Gurinder drops me off at the Golden Temple, the holiest place for Sikhs.

Before entering the Golden Temple, I must remove my shoes, wash my feet, put on an orange head covering and leave any tobacco and alcohol behind.

Sikhism

Sikhism is a monotheistic religion that was founded in the late 15th century in the Punjab region of South Asia by Guru Nanak Dev Ji, and developed by ten successive Sikh Gurus. Its core beliefs emphasise the oneness of God, the equality of all people, selfless service and devotion to justice. Sikhs follow the teachings recorded in the central religious scripture, the Guru Granth Sahib, which is considered the eternal Guru. The religion promotes leading a truthful and honest life, meditating on God's name and serving humanity. Key practices include the Five Ks (Kesh, Kara, Kanga, Kachera, and Kirpan), as well as community service, as exemplified by the tradition of langar, or free communal meals. Sikhism rejects caste, superstition and ritualism, aiming for spiritual liberation through devotion, discipline and community.

The atmosphere with the many pilgrims walking around the temple feels peaceful and spiritual. Some Sikhs take a dip in the holy water, even though it’s freezing outside. The whole area is spotlessly clean. I walk around the compound several times until my feet are really cold, then I join the free langar in the communal kitchen.

Here, 10,000 meals are prepared every day with the help of many volunteers. Everything is organised perfectly efficient, like in a mass production facility.

First, I am handed a plate and cutlery, then I am guided to an eating room. New guests are seated in long, opposite double rows. Volunteers now serve rice, dhal, curry, bread and water from large buckets, walking up and down the rows.

Once a table has been used, it is cleaned and prepared immediately for the next guests. Guests take dirty plates and cutlery and hand them over to the washing team next to the exit. Volunteers also help with cutting and chopping vegetables here.

In the early morning, I visit the Golden Temple again for the blue hour. Despite my cold feet, it's another wonderful atmosphere.

Adjacent to the temple stands the Jallianwala Bagh Museum, commemorating the Jallianwala Bagh massacre — one of the most tragic events in India's struggle for independence — which occurred on 13 April 1919. On that day, British colonial forces under the command of Brigadier General Reginald Dyer opened fire on a large gathering of unarmed Indian civilians assembled at Jallianwala Bagh, a public garden, to protest against repressive colonial laws and the arrest of two popular leaders.

The crowd, which is estimated to have included around 15,000 men, women and children, had gathered to demonstrate peacefully. Without warning, Dyer ordered his troops to fire on the crowd, resulting in a brutal massacre. The shooting lasted for around 10 minutes and official reports claimed that 379 people were killed; however, other estimates suggest that the death toll could have been much higher, with over a thousand people wounded.

The busy city center of Amritsar.

In the afternoon, I visit the Wagah-Attari Border, which is an hour away by car. Every day, a bizarre border closing ceremony takes place here, in which the strongest and most fierce-looking soldiers try to impress their counterparts on the other side with martial behaviour, much to the amusement of the cheering crowds.

The Indian crowd is definitely bigger and louder, especially as quite a lot of building work is going on at the Pakistani side. Twelve years ago, I witnessed the ceremony from the Pakistani side.

On the way to Varanasi

An early IndiGo flight with a five-hour layover in Delhi takes me to Varanasi.

Varanasi - Life and Death in Indias Holy City

At the airport a pickup to the Kedareswar B&B, which is located right next to the Ganges, is waiting for me.

My room offers a direct view of the holy river. Varanasi is only built on one side of the riverbank, so I can see a huge sandbank on the opposite side where people are entertained with camel rides and so on. The view from the terrace is even better.

At the guesthouse, I meet Jürgen from Austria, who I will travel with for part of the trip. In the afternoon, we share with a nice Indian girl who is very talkative a boat ride for the Ganga Aarti (3000 rupees for the boat). This generally guarantees a good view, but when we arrive it's already very busy and we end up in an awkward position with a big boat in front of us. Not perfect.

In Varanasi, an Aarti refers to a deeply spiritual and visually stunning Hindu ritual performed to honour and worship deities, often conducted along the banks of the Ganges River. The Ganga Aarti is a famous daily ceremony that takes place at the Dashashwamedh Ghat. Many consider attending the Ganga Aarti in Varanasi to be a life-changing spiritual experience. I am obviously not receptive to life-changing spiritual experiences, but it is interesting to watch.

Our boat neighbours.

Hinduism

Hinduism, a timeless and diverse spiritual tradition, is the dominant religion of India and one of the oldest in the world. It embraces a rich tapestry of beliefs, rituals, and philosophies centered on the ideas of karma (action), dharma (duty), and moksha (liberation). Central to Hindu worship are its many gods and goddesses, each representing different aspects of the divine. Among the most revered are Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver, and Shiva the destroyer — together forming the Trimurti. Powerful goddesses like Lakshmi (wealth), Saraswati (wisdom), Durga (strength), and Kali(destruction and transformation) are widely worshipped, symbolizing the vital and dynamic energy known as Shakti. Hinduism is not just a religion but a vibrant way of life expressed through festivals, temple rituals, and everyday devotion.

We have a fantastic dry fruit and nut Lassi at the Blue Lassi Shop.

Jürgen joins my guided morning tour with Vikash, who is both funny and knowledgeable. In the morning haze, we row along the ghats, where life is slowly awakening. The ghats of Varanasi are much more than just riverfront steps; they serve as spiritual gateways and cultural hubs, as well as places where locals and pilgrims carry out their daily activities, embodying the soul of the city.

We see people going about their morning routines: bathing, washing clothes, taking a holy dip to cleanse themselves of their sins, or chatting with neighbours. Amidst all this activity are the burning ghats. We leave the boat at the biggest and most famous one, the Manikarnika Ghat.

Hindus believe that being cremated here and having one’s ashes immersed in the Ganges ensures liberation from the cycle of rebirth. Manikarnika Ghat operates 24/7 and it is believed that the cremation fire here never goes out. Around 80–100 bodies are cremated here every day.

Vikash explains the cremation process, which we then witness. For us, it’s strange to see everything so open to the public. Honestly, it’s intense, especially when you see dogs feeding on the remains of corpses in the ashes that are still smoking next to the Ganges.

Hindu Cremation Process

Preparation of the Body:

The deceased is wrapped in a white cloth (for men and widows) or red/orange cloth (for married women).
The body is often decorated with garlands and smeared with sandalwood paste.
It is carried to the ghat on a bamboo stretcher, accompanied by male family members chanting “Ram naam satya hai” (The name of Lord Ram is truth).

Ritual Bathing:

Before cremation, the body is dipped in or sprinkled with water from the Ganges, considered purifying and sacred.

Fire Preparation:

A funeral pyre is constructed using logs of wood, often sandalwood (if affordable) or other available wood.
It can be bought ride at the Ghats and it‘s important to use the right quantity to ensure full cremation.
Dry cow dung and ghee (clarified butter) are sometimes used to aid combustion.

Lighting the Pyre:

A senior male family member, often the eldest son, performs the last rites.
He shaves his head and dons a white dhoti as a mark of mourning.
The pyre is lit with a sacred flame, traditionally brought from the eternal flame at the ghat (believed to have been burning for thousands of years).

Cremation:

The body burns completely, which takes 3–4 hours depending on the wood and conditions.

Ash Immersion:

Once the body has been reduced to ashes, the remains are collected and immersed in the Ganges.
A priest often performs rituals to guide the soul toward liberation.

Every corner offers something interesting in Varanasi.

In the afternoon, I visit India Natural, a perfume shop with a very good reputation on Google. Only perfume oils (100% pure, unlike normal perfumes which contain alcohol and water) are sold here. The owner is extremely knowledgeable about the extraction processes and asks me what type of fragrance I like. He then lets me try three of his own creations, one for women and two for men. He explains that more than three scents are too much for the average person to handle at once. I like all of them except one male fragrance and buy some as presents and one for myself.

Afterwards, I stroll along the ghats and take a look at the holy men, the sadhus.

Sadhus - Hindu Holy Men

Varanasi, one of the oldest living cities in the world, is a spiritual heart of India where the sacred meets the everyday. Among its most iconic figures are the sadhus — Hindu holy men who have renounced worldly life in pursuit of spiritual liberation. Dressed in saffron robes or covered in ash, they can be seen meditating along the ghats, performing rituals, or wandering the narrow alleys of the city. Some follow strict ascetic practices, while others belong to specific sects devoted to Shiva, Vishnu, or other deities. For travelers, encountering a sadhu in Varanasi offers a powerful glimpse into a centuries-old tradition of renunciation, devotion, and the eternal quest for enlightenment.

This afternoon, we are visiting the Kashi-Vishwanath Temple, which is one of the holiest Hindu temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. A focal point of Hindu devotion, it attracts millions of pilgrims seeking spiritual liberation. We have to leave everything, including our phones, in lockers before we can enter. It is very busy, but somehow less interesting than expected, considering its importance to Hindus.

In the evening, we watch another Aarti, this time from the land. For only 200 rupees, we get a premium seat and a much better view than we had from the boat yesterday.

I'm taking it easy this morning. I'm just going to do some souvenir shopping with Jürgen before I take a final stroll through the city.

On the way to Khajuraho

In the afternoon, I take a tuk-tuk to the train station to catch my overnight train to Khajuraho. There are upper and lower fixed beds in my class. I have a lower one and make myself comfortable. Shortly afterwards, a family with two children appears. The four of them have booked the remaining three beds in the cabin, and they do not look too happy to find me lying on the lower bed. I wonder if they have been hoping for an extra free bed in the cabin. After a while, the father shyly asks me if I would swap to the upper bed, to which I agree. I later find out that lower beds in India are generally used as communal seating areas during the day and only become private at night. No wonder they weren't amused by my German-like occupation of the seat. Note: it's better to book upper beds if you want more comfort during the day.

Khajuraho - Naked Truths and Sacred Stones

The night is not relaxing, as I am afraid I could miss my stop, which is only two minutes, and there are neither voice messages nor staff around. Using the TrainMan app, I can see that we are already 1.5 hours late, so I constantly adjust my alarm to check the status. We finally arrive one hour late at 03:30. Beerendra, my local contact, is already waiting for me at the station. Kajuraho is about an hour and a half away. By 05:00 I'm finally in bed at the Kajuraho Rancho Homestay and sleep...

...…until 06:15, as I've asked for an early guided tour starting at sunrise for the famous Kajuraho temples, to avoid the crowds and making use of the soft morning light. I must be crazy I think to myself when I get out of the bed.

The Khajuraho Temples are an extraordinary group of Hindu and Jain temples, renowned for their intricate carvings and exquisite sculptures. Built by the Chandela dynasty between the 9th and 11th centuries, these temples are a UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to their architectural brilliance and cultural significance.

The temples are particularly famous for their erotic sculptures, which form a small but significant part of the artwork. Often misunderstood, these carvings represent themes of love, life and spirituality, emphasising the harmonious balance between earthly desires and divine pursuits. The rest of the artwork depicts everyday life, deities, mythical creatures and celestial beings.

Of the original 85 temples, only 25 have survived, and they are divided into three groups: Western, Eastern and Southern. The Western Group, which includes the iconic Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, is the most well-preserved and popular with visitors.

When the tour starts at the Western group, it's still misty and the sun is not yet visible, but fortunately, half an hour later, I'm greeted by soft sunlight, which makes the beautiful carvings stand out even more. I'm glad to have a guide, as the many carvings are overwhelming, and some of the most interesting examples — especially the explicit ones — are easily overlooked. Looking at the diverse Kama Sutra examples, I ask the guide, with a twinkle in my eye, if people in Khajuraho have more children than elsewhere, given all this training material at hand. His reply: 'No, no, sir. Look, there are also oral examples.' Good answer — chapeau!

I've seen many temples in my life, but the carvings here are absolutely outstanding. With their three-dimensional look and many different scenes, they never get boring, even after two hours.

We take a break at the nicely located café inside the compound. Dozens of squirrels roam the area, running up and down the trees and searching for leftovers on the ground. My guide also shows me two owls, perfectly camouflaged amongst the tree branches.

After finishing the western compound, we drive to the less famous eastern site. The temples here are dedicated to the Jain community, and there is also an active temple on the grounds. Jain priests roam the area completely naked, showing off their huge jungle areas with pride. Men and women listen to their teachings. It's kind of weird from a Western perspective, but then again, we have naturism, well, although not in church. I wonder if more or fewer people would get the blessing from a naked priest. Ugh, I have to stop the film in my head! Immediately!

In the afternoon, I met Jürgen, who had arrived by plane. Together, we visit the Raneh Waterfall, also known as the 'Little Indian Grand Canyon'. 'Little, little' would probably be a more accurate description, at least compared to the original. Nevertheless, it's still an impressive sight. What fascinates me the most are the pictures our guide shows us, taken during the monsoon season. The entire canyon is covered by water and only a few rocks are visible. It's amazing and hard to believe.

At the last viewpoint, we see a crocodile and a gavial lying on the same rock. It's interesting to see them side by side, with their different anatomical characteristics.

It's an early start again. 05:30 Beerendra and my driver take me to the Pana Tiger Reserve.

The reserve is a renowned wildlife sanctuary, famous for its successful tiger conservation efforts. Spread across the Vindhya Hills, the reserve features diverse habitats, including dry deciduous forests and grasslands, as well as the Ken River, which supports a rich variety of flora and fauna.

As it was not possible to book a shared ride online, I have a jeep all to myself. Beerendra seizes the opportunity to join me. It's his first time. While we wait with around 25 other Jeeps for the park to open, the cold creeps into my body, and of course it doesn't get any better in the open vehicle once we start driving. Brrrrrrrrr.

Over the next four hours, we see monkeys, various kinds of antelope and deer, a variety of birds, the back of a leopard and fresh tiger footprints, but unfortunately no tigers themselves. There is a tigress with four cubs in the area, which was seen the day before, but not today. Generally, 50% of jeeps see a tiger, and the guides are in contact with each other, but today's quota stays at 0%. I'm a bit disappointed, and I almost fall asleep in the jeep on the way back. I'm so tired. I must get more sleep today.

Back at the guesthouse, I have a late breakfast before being picked up by Beerendra again to visit a local village.

On the way to Agra

After a 2.5-hour drive, most of which I spent sleeping, I am finally dropped off at the railway station in Jhansi. At the station, an associate looks after me from the moment I leave the car until I finally sit in my carriage. It's perfectly organised, but for my personal taste it's a bit too much babysitting. Where's the fun in mastering the small challenges that individual travel brings from time to time?

Agra - Where Love Lives Forever

In Agra, my guesthouse host is waiting for me outside the train carriage — it couldn't be easier! Aradhana is a typical homestay: the room is simple but clean, and the family is very polite and friendly. They welcome me with a flower necklace and take some photos, which I receive later for the review. The necklace I have to return once the photos are done. Nevertheless, I don't really warm to them. The atmosphere feels a little too forced and inauthentic, more like role play. Maybe I am wrong about them, but that's how it feels, and I haven't had that feeling in other places. They are also very persistent in getting a five-star review right on the spot, which also fits into my perception of the situation.

Today I have another guided tour, starting early morning with the most famous Indian symbol, the Taj Mahal. A queue of people is already present, but the entrance tickets has already been organised when Jürgen and I arrive. Thanks to the guide, security is quickly made through.

Unfortunately, it's quite foggy, but this gives the Taj a kind of mystical atmosphere. We learn that it's not uncommon for the Taj to be completely covered in fog at this time of year.

The Taj Mahal was built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, and it stands as a symbol of eternal love and devotion.

Mumtaz Mahal was Shah Jahan’s favourite wife. She was renowned for her beauty, grace and compassion. In 1631, she passed away while giving birth to their 14th child, leaving Shah Jahan heartbroken. Her dying wish was for Shah Jahan to build a monument that would reflect their everlasting love and her memory.

Construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1632, taking around 22 years to complete and involving over 20,000 artisans. The main mausoleum is built entirely of white marble and is adorned with intricate inlay work featuring semi-precious stones. It is flanked by a symmetrical garden representing paradise, complete with a reflecting pool that mirrors the monument. The tomb contains cenotaphs in honour of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan, although their actual graves are located in a lower chamber.

The Legend of the Black Taj Mahal

According to popular lore, Emperor Shah Jahan planned to build a second mausoleum made entirely of black marble across the Yamuna River to serve as his own tomb and complement the white Taj Mahal. The Black Taj Mahal was said to be intended as a mirror image of the white Taj Mahal, with the Yamuna River flowing between the two structures to symbolise eternal love and balance. Shah Jahan intended to connect the two structures with a bridge, creating a grandiose and symmetrical ensemble. However, before this plan could be realised, Shah Jahan was overthrown and imprisoned by his son, Aurangzeb, in 1658. Shah Jahan spent the rest of his life confined to Agra Fort, gazing at the Taj Mahal from afar. What a story!

Professional photographers take pictures at popular spots for a fee, including at the famous bench where Lady Di's iconic photograph was taken. Jürgen claims it's the wrong bench, though — everyone queues up for that one. We check online and, sure enough, he is right — how strange is that? Of course, we take a photo with the correct bench, but, unlike Diana, we're not important enough to have the place to ourselves and have to share the spot with dozens of other people.

After visiting the Taj Mahal, we visit the Agra Fort, a Mughal fortress and World Heritage Site predating the Taj Mahal. Built in the 16th century by Emperor Akbar, this red sandstone fort served as a royal residence and military stronghold for the Mughal Empire.

In the old town, we enjoy a delicious thali for just 80 rupees. It's a popular place, according to our guide, and is always busy. Then we walk around the old town and witnessed a Hindu parade organised by the local merchant castes. What a great photo opportunity!

Next, we visit the Itmad-ud-Daula Mausoleum, also known as the 'Baby Taj', which is considered a precursor to the Taj Mahal and showcases exquisite craftsmanship. It's quite nice and far less busy than its bigger relative.

Finally, we visit the garden behind the Taj Mahal, on the opposite riverbank where once the Black Taj Mahal was planned. This area also offers a great view of the Taj Mahal. Unfortunately, the sky is still grey.

On the way to Ramthambhore

Jürgen is joining me for this part of the journey. Today, we have a long drive ahead of us to Ranthambhore, visiting Fatehpur Sikri and Chand Baori on the way. Ramthambore already belongs to Rajasthan, India’s largest state by area, known for majestic forts, opulent palaces, and colorful cities like Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Udaipur, which I will visit afterwards.

Fatehpur Sikri was built by Emperor Akbar in the 16th century to serve as the capital of the Mughal Empire. It is renowned for its stunning red sandstone architecture, which blends Islamic, Hindu and Persian styles. Key landmarks include the Buland Darwaza, a grand gateway symbolising Akbar’s victory, and the magnificent Jama Masjid mosque. However, Fatehpur Sikri was abandoned just 14 years later due to water shortages. In 1986, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its cultural and architectural significance.

Akbar had three wives, one Muslim, one Christian and one Hindu, and each had her own palace. Also not to be missed is the Elephant Tower, built for the emperor’s favourite execution elephant, and the game the emperor used to play with servants dressed in coloured robes instead of artificial figures. Imagine a game of chess played with live characters to get the idea. Exploring the historic city takes almost three hours.

After a further two-and-a-half-hour drive, we reach our second stop. Chand Baori is a renowned stepwell located in Abhaneri, a village in Rajasthan, India. Built during the 8th-9th centuries by King Chanda of the Nikumbha dynasty, it is one of the largest and deepest stepwells in the world. The stepwell features 3,500 narrow steps arranged in a precise geometric pattern over 13 stories, descending to a depth of about 30 meters. It served both as a water reservoir and a cool retreat during the scorching summer months.

I've never seen something like it before, an amazing place and no wonder that it was used as a movie set for Badman "The Dark Knight Rises" (2012).

Follow to India Part 2 - Rajasthan

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