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In the Heart of Africa - Congo and Central African Republic

River Cruise on the Sangha and Congo, July 2024

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

November 24^th, 2024

Motivation - Why to Go?

Congo and the Central African Republic sound like deep, impenetrable rainforest, pure wilderness, teaming wildlife and unstable political situations. A melange that promises a real adventure, at least in my mind. It's one of those dream places that I've always wanted to visit, but I've never found an interesting tour and independent travel is not really an option here.

Then, finally, Diamir offered a tour that really shocked me. Not only because of the really tempting, cool itinerary of exploring some of the most remote places and national parks on earth via a really comfortable river boat, but also because of the price. My first thought was no way, but the seed was planted and it grew on me quickly. It only took a few days before I couldn't resist and contacted Diamir. Only a shared room with another traveller was an option in terms of price, so the next few weeks were a constant up and down, with changing information about a possible roommate. At one point, while I was travelling in Tunisia, I was told that there was finally no roommate available and that the room could no longer be reserved (I was really down at the time), only to be told two hours later that someone who booked a single had finally decided to take a shared room. Hell and heaven so close together.

Congo-Brazzaville - FACTS AND FIGURES

Size: 342,000 sq. km
Population: ~6,1 million
Capital and biggest city: Brazzaville, with 2.2 million inhabitants
Religion: 87% Christianity, 8% no Religion, 5% Others
Languages: French, French-Lingala
Currency: Central African CFA, 1.000 XAF = 1,5€ (07/2024)
Fun Fact: Brazzaville and Kinshasa are the closest capital citiesin the world, just 4.7 km apart, only separated by the Congo River.

In the Heart of Africa - Congo and Central African Republic

Climate and Best Travel Time

The Congo region has an equatorial climate, characterized by high temperatures and humidity throughout the year. There are two main seasons: the rainy season and the dry season. The rainy season lasts from March to May and again from September to November, with heavy rainfall and frequent thunderstorms. The best time to visit is during the dry seasons, from June to August and December to February, when the weather is more pleasant and travel is easier. Temperatures generally range from 24°C to 29°C (75°F to 84°F), with high humidity levels year-round. Wildlife viewing, especially gorilla trekking, is best during the dry season when the trails are more accessible.

ITINERARY

The original plan was to fly from Brazzaville deep into the Congo to the small town of Quesso, then spend 15 days on a riverboat down the Sangha and Congo rivers, exploring the area and the wildlife in the national parks along the way, including the jungle elephants of Dzanga Bai in the Central African Republic, the life of the Ba'aka, M'Benzele and Bantu tribes along the river, the Bonobos in Nkala and the street subculture of the Sappeurs back in Brazzaville. Well, things turned out differently. Due to historically low water levels on the Sangha, we had to explore the area around Quesso in smaller dinghies, then return to Brazzaville by road, stopping in Gambona as a base to visit the bonobos at Nkala. Not exactly what I was looking for, but still a memorable experience, so read on for more.

The boarding of our flight is on time, but then have to wait more than 1.5 hours for take-off due to bad weather. On the plane I meet Martin and Jaenette from my Chad trip three years ago. What a surprise, of course they are on the Congo trip too, very cool.

The weather in Addis Abeba, where we have to change plains, is rainy. Countless small rivers criss-cross the greenery. Luckily we have enough buffer for our flight to Brazzaville, so we make it just in time. I hope my bag makes it too.

We land in Brazzaville on time. The weather is hazy, but to my surprise the temperature is pleasant and not too humid. I was expecting the weather to be hot, steamy and humid, but I'm pleasantly surprised.

I slowly get to know the other participants. There are 29 of us, limited by the space on the boat. Ingo from Bayreuth will be my roommate for the trip and we will get along very well during the trip.

The Radisson Blue, right on the banks of the Kongo River with a view of Kinshasa on the other side, is a pleasant hotel. We have dinner together, which is another opportunity to socialise. As you would expect on a trip like this, everyone seems to have travelled a lot and has lots of stories to tell.

An early morning charter flight in a 70-seater jet takes us in 1.5 hours to Quesso, where we will board the RV Princesse Ngalessa. The unforgettable green carpet of primary rainforest we see on the flight, according to our itinerary, is today hidden behind the haze. Only as we approach the airport does it reveal itself for a brief moment. Just enough to feel the remoteness of the area.

After a short bus ride, the Sangha River and the Princesse Ngalessa come into view and we are greeted by the crew with an energetic dance performance. It's the first riverboat dedicated to tourism on the Congo and we're only the 3rd tour. So everything still feels brand new, including the stylish boutique-style rooms. My personal highlight is the huge observation deck and I'm looking forward to standing on it with a cold beer in my hand, watching the green river scenery go by. The plan is to go up the river today and then take the smaller dinghies, we have three of them, to our camp tomorrow.

Unfortunately, that's not going to happen, we are told. The Princesse Ngalessa will have to stay in Quesso due to the low water levels upriver and the dinghies will take us to the lodge in the Dzanga-Sangha National Park in 8-9 hours tomorrow. Damn, I can't hide my disappointment.

From the observation deck we have a view of the river life. Fishing boats, a car ferry and many wooden passenger boats constantly cross the Sangha River.

In the afternoon we experience our first thunderstorm and rain, reminding us that we are in the rainforest despite the dry season. We hope it stays dry for tomorrow's boat trip, as 8-9 hours in the rain at 40-50 km/h doesn't sound too appealing.

Lunch and dinner are fabulous, including scallops and tender beef fillet. Ducret Expedition is French-owned and, as you would expect, there is no compromise on the food. The chef spent eight years working in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris.

In the evening we get a briefing about the activities of the next days. We will be divided into two groups. Both groups will do the same programme but in reverse order due to limited space in the two lodges.

Early morning athmosphere.

I'm part of group one, and we're setting off early in the morning on a long ride with the dinghies to the Doli Lodge at Dzanga-Sangha NP in the Central African Republic (CAR). Fortunately it isn't raining. The two small dinghies have surprisingly comfortable seats and strong engines. Still, it's a long and exhausting trip along the endless green river banks, only occasionally interrupted by small fishing villages. The left side of the river belongs to Cameroon the right to the Rebublic of Congo. The temperature is pleasant, as the wind helps to cool down a bit and even a jacket becomes handy in the morning.

We have one long stop at Kabo and five shorter ones for police and border control. Several times we have to slow down because of underwater sandbanks, indicated by ripples on the surface. There is no way we could get up here with the big river boat. Normally the water level would be higher at this time of year, but there has not been enough rain. During the rainy season the water level rises more than 3 metres.

Central African Republic - FACTS AND FIGURES

Size: 622,284 sq. km
Population: ~5,5 million
Capital and biggest city: Bangui, with 0,8 million inhabitants
Ethnic groups: 89% Christian, 9% Islam, 2% Others
Languages: Sango, French
Currency: Central African CFA, 1.000 XAF = 1,5€ (07/2024)
Facts: CAR is the world's second poorest country based on GDP per capita, has the lowest life expectancy of just 54 years and the lowest CO2 footprint per capita. It's considered among the 10 most dangerous countries in the world.

Shortly after Bomassa we enter into the CAR. It’s save entering from this site, as it’s a very remote area, with very few people crossing the border here. Flying in via the capital Bangui and driving down south is not recommended at all.

Finally, after a long and tiring 12 hour boat ride, we arrive just after dark.

The Doli Lodge is nice, with rustic but comfortable bungalows, a hot shower and even WIFI, although not fast. The National Park and lodge is managed by the WWF.

In the evening we are told that it's possible to sleep on the viewing platform at Dzangha Bai, which is considered to be the best place in the world to see jungle elephants. The extra cost is €150, but I don't hesitate as this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for me. Besides, the normal visiting time would be between 10:00 and 15:30, which means outside the best light conditions for photos. A no brainer. To my surprise, only five people out of 18 choose this option, all photo enthusiasts of course.

I'm first up and I enjoy the morning atmosphere at the lodge. Some monkeys play around in a huge tree on the compound. I'm surprised at how chilly it is this morning and how few mosquitoes there are. It's not what you'd expect in a tropical rainforest.

After breakfast, we visit a small waterfall that isn't particularly impressive. We reach it after a 30-minute boat ride and a 30-minute walk.

After a quick stop back at the lodge, we head to Dzangha Baï with a 40-minute car ride through the rainforest, followed by a 40-minute walk, including a river crossing. A platform, about 8 meters high, offers a spectacular view over the whole bai and is also used by a research team.

A bai is an opening in the rainforest with a water source and often some grass, which makes it very attractive for the animals, especially elephants. They need the minerals in the soil to help them digest the jungle leaves, which are full of bitter tannins. An elephant will eat between 100 and 300 kg of leaves a day. During the dry season, they even dig huge holes to reach the minerals, which helps to keep the openings alive. It's a system that's been working for thousands of years.

I noticed as many as 48 elephants at the same time during our stay, but it's not unusual to see 100 or more, normally peaking during the early morning. There is a constant coming and going, and it's fascinating to see how they just appear from or vanish back into the dense rainforest without any visible traces.

We love being around these amazing creatures as there is always something interesting to observe.

We're in luck today because a huge group of rare bongos is roaming the area, as well. They're the biggest type of antelope around here and are really beautiful, with their reddish body colouring and white stripes.

Lunch with the best view! And of course, always in alert mode, ready to catch any interesting action as it happens.

Keeping a close eye on us and the surrounding area, we are allowed by our guide to take some pictures from the ground level, which results in a more interesting viewing angle than from top.

Sleeping today is in simple tents on the platform, but who cares when you can listen to the amazing jungle noises, including the growling and trumpeting of the elephants.

What an incredible afternoon and night, despite the thin 5mm mattress and the diarrhoea I caught yesterday, resulting in the thrilling experience of descending from the platform at 3am to conduct urgent business behind a bush. All my senses are on alert and every sound in the vicinity gives me an adrenaline rush. Certainly not the ideal time for a face-to-face encounter with an elephant, buffalo or 300kg wild boar.

After a peaceful morning of elephant viewing, mostly without taking photos, we leave the platform at 08:00 for the Mangabey trekking at Hokou Baï.

Hokou Baï was famous for lowland gorilla trekking with four habituated groups. Unfortunately, three silverbacks, including the iconic Makumba, were killed by rivals within 6 months of our trip and the groups are now scattered, the last remaining one exclusively reserved for researchers. More than unfortunate for us and a disaster for the camp as it takes 5-7 years to habituate a group.

After a short drive from Hokou Bai and a 40 minute walk deeper into the rainforest we spot the group of Mangabey roaming the area.

It's difficult to take pictures of them as they move quickly, the forest is dense and the light is very dim. Nevertheless, they are curious about us, and from time to time they take a closer look at the strange creatures on the ground. We follow them for about an hour before heading back to the car.

All in all, a nice experience, but it doesn't make up for the missing gorilla trekking, which was of course the highlight of the park next to Dzanga Baï.

Back at Hokou Baï camp, we have a quick lunch before setting off on another hike to visit several bais on foot. It's exhausting to keep up with the pace of our trackers. Several times we try to cross a bai, but with elephants nearby we are unable to do so. We see a few buffalo, but they quickly run away. We have to cross several creeks and, tired of taking off and putting on shoes and socks, many of us decide to leave them on. I realise the disadvantage of my Gore Tex boots, once the water gets in it doesn't get out so quickly. Sandals would be ideal, but they don't offer much protection from the nasty thorns in the bush and the biting ants, of which there are plenty. So non-waterproof shoes would definitely be the best option.

As we mostly follow the narrow jungle path made and used by the elephants, we are twice surprised by them coming from the opposite direction. Seeing the guides suddenly turn and shout in panic "Run! Run!" as they overtake us creates a brief but powerful adrenaline rush. What the f..... is going on? We run until we find another path to take. Fortunately, there are many paths and such an elephant encounter is not too common. Nevertheless, the sound of their loud trumpeting in the forest keeps our tension high, and at one point the guides decide to leave the path, probably sensing another encounter, and fight their way with us through the dense forest until we reach another saver path.

Unfortunately, the sightings at the baïs we manage to visit this afternoon are a little disappointing and all the walking and running is tiring, so we are all glad when we finally get back to camp. After a 1.5 hour drive back to Doli Lodge I enjoy a well deserved shower and a cold beer. Tonight I sleep like a stone and even an trumpeting elephant next to the bed, could not wake me up.

Today we have another long dingy ride back to the Princesse Ngalessa in Quesso. At least it's downriver and the formalities should be less time-consuming. In the end we make it in 8 hours, which I use for the diary and some interesting discussions. It feels much shorter than the trip upstream.

Nevertheless, two long and tiring days of boating for only two days of sightseeing is obviously not the best ratio.

After dinner, Nicolai Ducret, the owner of Ducret Expeditions, tells us the story of how he started the company and how it became the first expedition cruise in the Congo. To tell you the truth, I'm deeply impressed by the courage and entrepreneurship based on a dream and a deep belief in its realisation.

He once read a book about a canoe trip down the Congo and was so impressed that he decided to visit the area. He then lived and worked in Moscow for nine years, but became bored and looked for another opportunity.

He came up with the idea of a river exploration cruise company, starting with evaluating the right region. There were many cruises on the Amazon, for example, but none on the Congo, so the idea of a Congo cruise was born.

He spent six weeks exploring the area in a custom-built piroge, looking for navigable rivers and potential activities, stopping in all the communities along the way.

In his search for a cruise ship, he came across the Princesse Ngalessa in Brazzaville, which belonged to the Minister of the Interior but was not in use at the time for already seven years. When he explained his plan, they quickly agreed on a long-term lease.

With the help of an architect, he renovated the entire boat in a boutique style. The renovation took six months and required full-time supervision to ensure the desired level of quality.

The biggest challenges are sudden unforeseen events, such as the cancellation of gorilla trekking in Dzanga-Sangha NP, or a bridge that the Chinese are now building 15 km downstream from Quesso, forcing the Princess to anchor even further away from Dzanga-Sangha NP in the future. So a constant process of problem solving is required to adapt to changing conditions.

All in all, a fascinating story.

The alarm clock rings at 04:50. Another long day is ahead of us, and today we're already starting at 06:00 with a three-hour boat ride back to Bomassa, which we passed on the way yesterday. The plan is to visit the Wali Baï in the Nouabale-Ndoki National Park.

It's a three-kilometre jungle walk to the baï, which is covered by a shallow, clear lake. When we arrive at the hide, we're greeted by three buffalo. It'll be our only mammal sighting today, so we use the time to take pictures of the many different butterflies, which unfortunately aren't as cooperative as we'd hoped.

Plenty of butterfly but diffcultto take pictures.

On the way, we often stop to learn more about the local flora and fauna. It's the first time on the tour and it's quite interesting.

Back in Bomassa, we enjoy a local lunch next to the river with fantastic, tasty fish and a cold beer. Who would have expected that in such a remote village? We are all happy.

It's almost night when we arrive back at the Princesse. Not a spectacular but overall a nice day.

After the long, tiring days, I'm glad we have a more relaxed day ahead, starting with a late breakfast. A short boat ride then takes us to a WW1 monument. Yesterday the group encountered a poisonous snake at the monument, which was immediately killed by the locals. Understandable, knowing that children play around here.

We are told about the colonial history of the area. German and French soldiers fought a battle here when the Germans tried to capture another colony after todays Cameroon. The area that is now the Republic of Congo was once explored and colonised for France by Pierre Savorgnan de Brazzà, who took a more humanist approach, opposing slavery for example. On the other hand, Henry Morton Stanley, who explored the area under the patronage of King Leopold II of Belgium, earned the local nickname "Bula Matari", which translates to "Breaker of Rocks", due to his relentless, forceful and brutal approach to exploration, including blasting himself and his team through the rainforest with dynamite, constructing infrastructure, particularly roads. In 1885, King Leopold II declared the land his private property, the largest private property ever owned by anyone, and brutally exploited the area for its resources, especially rubber. In a history of brutal colonisation, this was one of the most brutal regimes. An international campaign in 1908 pressured him to cede the territory, which beacame a Belgian colony and achieved its independence later in 1960.

We then take a nature walk through the jungle, where we learn about the different plants. It seems that Mother Nature has a cure for almost every illness.

Back on the boat we relax, have lunch and later visit Quesso, especially the market. We arrive a little late and some stalls have already closed, but the people are very friendly and we receive many smiles. In one area we see bush meat and are not prevented from taking pictures of it. Outside the marked area I saw some small antelopes on the ground but was kindly told not to take pictures.

After a cocktail and some fabulous onion rings with garlic dip,......

we enjoy a nice BBQ on the viewing deck, no bushmeat of course.

In the morning we finally leave Quesso on the Princesse to explore the area downstream. 800 km on the Sangha and Congo rivers await us before we will reach Brazzaville.

We are making our way slowly along the banks of the river when we suddenly come to a complete stop. The engine is still running, the water is splashing, but nothing is happening. Slowly we realise that we must have hit a sandbank, just 3km downstream from Quesso. At first we joke about it, but after an hour of trying to get free, we realise that the situation is serious. The crew has expected some critical parts on the river, but later, not here. Of course, the whole team is now on alert and thinking about how to deal with the situation. The first decision was to use the time after lunch to take the dinghies to a sandbank to sunbathe, swim and kayak, giving more time for the crew to make further plans.

We enjoy the kayaking and it's especially cool to swim in a tributary of the mighty Congo. Towards the end of the trip there is a storm, but it does not last long enough to affect the water level.

When we return, we find that the Princesse has been moved and is now anchored on the river bank. At least we are off the sandbank, hurrah!

At dinner we are informed of the alternative plan for the rest of the trip. As we had almost sensed and feared, our river journey is coming to an end. The water level is at an all-time low for this time of year and it is decided that it is too risky to try to make it down the river in these circumstances.

Everyone is deeply disappointed, but after today's experience they understand the decision. The alternative plan devised by the Decrut team is to visit a M'Benzele (Pygmaen) and Bantu village tomorrow to learn about their way of life, as originally planned, but using the dinghies for the trip down the river and back. We would then have another relaxing day on the boat before travelling by road to Gambona and using the hotel there as our base for the next four nights. From there we would visit a gorilla sanctuary and the bonobos in the DRC before returning to Brazzaville.

Two couples in the group decide to leave a week early and receive compensation, as cruising the river on a comfortable boat has been one of the highlights of the trip for them. For a moment, I think about it too, but then I realise that this is a once-in-a-lifetime trip and I will probably never come back. So I decide to stay and make the best of the situation.

Before we set off for the M'Benzele village, the captain tries to take the boat back to Quesso, but gives up after an hour when he can't find a navigable passage between the sandbanks and we have to leave.

To reach the M'Benzele village, we have to travel 90km down the river in our dinghies. There are no roads to reach the village. While Quesso upriver to Dzanga-Sanga sees a few tourists from time to time, the area downstream from Quesso is rarely visited by tourists and many villages have hardly seen white people. The locals in the fishing villages wave and greet us as we pass and we do the same. We have to be careful with the strong engines of the dinghies as the waves created can easily tip over the small dugout canoes of the local fishermen. Beside the fishing villages we see another saw mill and a bridge build over the river by the Chinese.

After three hours we arrive at the M'Benzele village to be greeted by dozens of dancing and singing children, women and men. Wow, what a welcome. With lots of drumming, the frenetic dancing crowd leads us through the village to a sort of communal area.

About 300 people live here. The village is partly M'Benzele and partly Bantu. The M'Benzele are indigenous and traditionally live in and from the rainforest, while the Bantu migrated to the area several thousand years ago and come from around what is now Nigeria.

In the communal area we are greeted by the chief's son, then we have a Q&A session where three groups of five or six M'Benzele can ask us questions. I like the idea, because usually it's the other way round. However, they are a bit shy and first discuss in each group what questions they want to ask. They want to know why we are interested in them, when women usually have their first children, how we live, what we eat, etc. In return, we ask them questions, creating a kind of dialogue.

We learn that girls have their first child at the age of 12 or 13 and that 6-10 children are the norm for a couple. They eat mostly what they can get from the rainforest: nuts, fruit, small antelopes, monkeys, and occasionally fish or crocodiles.

None of them have ever been to Brazzaville or even Quesso. We also hear of tensions with the Bantu. The authorities want them to settle in the villages with the Bantu, but they are often seen as cheap labour and subjected to racist behaviour. So the children do not go to school with the Bantu and would prefer to have their own school. I'm not sure how much of this information comes directly from them or is added by our translators. Nevertheless, it is hard to achieve with the Bantu-dominated authority.

After the dance and Q&A session, they disappear into the forest, separated into men and women, to recharge their batteries. Some parts of the surrounding forest are sacred and no one is allowed to enter, including the Bantu.

When they return, we are shown how they build huts, weave carpets, and which plants they eat or use to cure illness.

Children are always a fun part of interacting.

For dinner we have some sandwiches we have brought with us, then there is another dance session where a local spirit comes into play, symbolised by a dancing full-body straw costume. If the spirit touches a woman, she becomes infertile, so the men protect the women from the spirit, but are not allowed to touch it either. The children keep quite a distance, obviously out of respect from the spirit.

Finally we leave, as it's another tiring three hours back, of course to the cheers of the crowd.

Dancing and celebrating is a social act that is quite common among the M'Benzele, but I wonder after how many visits the enthusiasm and authenticity might diminish.

When we return, the Princesse is still anchored on the riverbank. I take the opportunity to shoot some drone photos.

Another attempt in the morning to get the Princesse back to Quesso is more successful today. Earlier, the crew had carefully checked the water levels in the area with the dinghies and found and marked a possible pass. With the decision already made not to go downriver, the captain is probably the most relieved person on board today.

We have a rest day on the boat. Some of us go into the village, others go kayaking and I decide to stay on the boat, reading, sorting pictures, chatting and using our mini pool on the observation deck, which is quite refreshing, especially with a cold beer in hand.

Today we say farewell to most of the crew and the princesse and travel by bus to Gamboma, about halfway between Quesso and Brazzaville. This will be our base for the next four nights. The road is surprisingly well paved and it takes us eight hours to cover the 528km, including a few stops at the Equateur to visit a monument, have lunch and go to the toilet. The landscape is rather boring, with lots of deforested areas in between. It's a bit depressing, especially when you consider that normally we'd be sitting on the deck of the Princesse, relaxing and watching the deep rainforest pass by on our way down the river.

On the way, we pass the President's birthplace and it feels like stepping into another world. Everything looks neat and tidy, with many impressive buildings. It's obvious that this place gets some extra funding and it's not hard to guess who is supporting it.

Our hotel is nice, with a huge, somewhat quirky garden area, including gorillas and a turtle statues, as well as live parrots in cages and a peacock that roams the grounds.

Once again we are split into two groups. One will be visiting a gorilla sanctuary, and as we are in the other group, our plan for today is to cross the Congo River into the Democratic Republic of Congo, and continue on to Nkala and the Bonobo Project. I've actually decided to stay at the camp for two nights, skipping the gorillas but increasing my chances of seeing the bonobos in their natural habitat. Probably a once in a lifetime opportunity.

It takes us three hours by 4WD to reach the river, including 1.5 hours on a bumpy dirt road. The Congo Rivers is about 3km wide here. We do not need to have our passports stamped at the customs. Copies of our passports are sufficient. The data is manually entered into a book, letter by letter. After an hour's wait, we cross the river on a large wooden pirogue.

What a cool feeling to cross this mighty river in the heart of Africa from the ROC to the DRC.

Congo Kinshasa - FACTS AND FIGURES

Size: 2,345,409 sq. km
Population: ~105 million
Capital and biggest city: Kinshasa, with 17 million inhabitants
Religion: 95% Christianity, 5% Others
Languages: French, Lingala, Swahili, Tshiluba
Currency: Central African CFA, 1.000 XAF = 1,5€ (07/2024)
Fact: Kinshasa is the world's largest French-speaking city.

On the other side we are met by 3 officials and quickly surrounded by a crowd of children. Our luggage is checked, more out of curiosity than for customs reasons. Again, our passports are not required. Followed by hordes of children, we make our way uphill through a village to the waiting cars. Everyone is very welcoming. It's the strangest border crossing I've come across so far, I'm not even sure it's an official border.

One of the three cars coming to pick us up broke down on the way, so the 15 of us have to squeeze into the remaining two. We stop for lunch in a village and are quickly surrounded by dozens of frenetically cheering children. Totally crazy.

We have to stop at another village to pay our respects to a local chief, then finally, just before sunset, we reach the Bonobo Camp.

The rooms and showers are simple but clean.

Nkala is a very special place. No one from the outside world expected to find bonobos in this region, relatively close to Kinshasa, before 2006, when the first researcher came to check out rumours of their presence. Other populations are extremely difficult to reach, located in the remotest parts of the rainforest.

Of course, it was no secret to the locals in the region, and probably the reason why the bonobos still survive here, as people deeply believe that they are their close ancestors and therefore have never hunted them or destroyed the rainforest they live in. Because of its accessibility, the area, which rarely saw a white man in the past, is now a haven for various bonobo research organisations.

Some facts about bonobos.

Genetically closest to chimpanzees and closest to humans of all the great apes.
Separated from chimpanzees when the Congo River formed about 1.2 million years ago, because they can't swim.
Bonobos are endemic to the DRC
Conflicts are resolved through sex rather than violence, as is often the case with chimpanzees.
Females have the ability to form alliances between themselves and are therefore hierarchically stronger than males.

After dinner, a large group of locals put on a beautiful dance performance somehow related to the bonobos.

For the bonobo trekking, we are split into two sub-teams to visit different groups.

The alarm goes off at 4.30am. We have a quick breakfast and then drive 30 minutes on a single track through the forest. Our old Toyota Landcruiser is brutally brushed by the vegetation. It's still dark and we follow our trackers Kelve and Moa deeper into the rainforest on foot, using headlamps, until we reach a point where we are told to sit down and switch off the headlamps. We have reached the bonobo roost.

In awe we listen to the sounds of the forest as daylight slowly creeps through the jungle. I sit on the ground, hoping that no ants, spiders or worse, millipedes will find their way under my clothes. But since the guides do it the same way, I consider myself safe. Suddenly we see some trees moving erratically. The bonobos have woken up. The jungle is incredibly dense, so it's hard to spot them. One of them climbing down from a tree is all I can make out for a brief moment. Too brief for taking a picture. Now awake, they are looking for food on the ground, moving fast. Faster than we can follow. Our trackers move elegantly and swiftly like leopards in the jungle, we like German tanks behind them. Sometimes we wait in the hope that they will come back, sometimes we cut our way through the thickest jungle. But whatever we do, this morning we are out of luck.

Back at camp, three of us, myself included, decide to follow the trackers in search of bonobos in another area. But despite several hours of fast and strenuous walking through the forest, we are out of luck again. I'm disappointed, somehow I had expected it to be much easier. Well, there will be another chance tomorrow.

This morning the alarm goes off at 3:00 as we have a long drive and walk to the bonobos ahead of us. We reach the bonobo roost at 5:30 and rest until dawn. This time we have more luck, in the distance we can see a curious individual, sometimes hiding behind a branch, sometimes moving a little to look at the strange white creatures on the ground, staring back at us. We move on and soon see a juvenile and probably the mother on a tree looking at us. It's incredibly difficult to get good pictures of the black apes in this dim environment.

Unfortunately, this is the only time we're going to see them, as all our efforts to follow them, including cutting a path through the dense jungle for an hour, fail. The trekkers and guides are supposed to be experienced, but some of the decisions they make seem strange to me and I wonder why they don't at least have walkie-talkies to improve communication between the different groups of trekkers. A long, hot and boring trail through burnt grassland brings us back to the cars.

It takes another six hours, including crossing the Congo River, until we are back at our hotel in Gamboma.

A four-hour drive brings us back to Brazzaville this morning, where we have lunch on the banks of the Congo River, overlooking Kinshasa on the other side.

Here we also meet some of the Sapeurs for which Brazzaville and Kinshasa are famous.

Sapeurs are members of a unique subculture primarily found in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and the Republic of Congo. Known for their extravagant and dapper fashion sense, Sapeurs belong to a movement called La Sape, which stands for "La Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes" (The Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People).

Here are some key aspects of the Sapeur culture:

1. Fashion Focus: Sapeurs are famous for their stylish, flamboyant outfits, often inspired by high-end European fashion. They wear sharp suits, brightly colored accessories, and shoes from well-known luxury brands like Gucci, Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent.

2. Elegance and Presentation: Beyond just clothing, Sapeurs emphasize grace, politeness, and impeccable manners. Their lifestyle is as much about maintaining a certain decorum as it is about fashion.

3. Cultural Identity: For many Sapeurs, dressing well is a way to express individuality and pride, especially in the face of economic hardships. It reflects a philosophy that elegance and dignity are not tied to wealth but to personal values.

4. Social Influence: The movement has roots in the colonial period, when Congolese people adopted European styles as a form of self-expression and resistance to colonial oppression. Today, Sapeurs use their fashion to challenge stereotypes and reclaim their identity.

5. Global Influence: The aesthetic and attitude of the Sapeurs have gained international attention, inspiring fashion designers, photographers, and filmmakers around the world. They have been featured in music videos and advertisements, bringing their distinct style to a global audience.

Despite often living in poor conditions, Sapeurs invest heavily in their wardrobes, making a strong statement about dignity, creativity, and resilience in the face of adversity.

We enjoy an amazing performance by the two gentlemen and ladies, which is pretty cool. In real life they are pickerel and duck farmers. The contrast to their current appearance couldn't be greater.

Afterwards, we visit a museum and the rapids of the Congo River, which are the reason why the mighty river is not navigable all the way to the sea.

A special surprise awaits us for dinner. As the first German tour group on the first Congo River cruise, we are invited by the German ambassador to his residence. Real German beer awaits us, along with finger food, a cultural programme and a few other German-speaking local guests. All in all a nice last evening.

After breakfast we are taken to the airport. The return flight with Ethiopian goes without a hitch.

Final Verdict

Gosh, what can I say about this trip? It clearly didn't work out as planned and so I can't hide my disappointment at missing out on the river cruise as I was really looking forward to it, especially considering the high price of the trip.

The team at Decrut and Diamir really did their best to save the trip in the best possible way, setting up and organising an alternative plan in a country where the tourist infrastructure is almost non-existent. So in the end we still managed to experience the most highlights with the elephants at Dzanga Bay and the bonobos in the DRC, the local villagers and sapeurs in Brazzaville and of course the feeling of visiting some of the most remote areas in the world including kayaking and swimming in the Congo which is a highlight in itself. The boat, food and crew were fabulous and it was always a pleasure to sit on the observation deck with a drink and chat with the other guests and listen to their travel stories.

So overall I made my peace with the tour, also finding a way of compensation with Diamir we all could live with.

However, if the tour had gone as originally planned, including the gorilla trekking, it would have been a fantastic trip that I would recommend wholeheartedly. The question is how Ducret will manage the tour in the future, as the water level could be an issue, especially considering that the weather is becoming more unpredictable with the climate change. Maybe they will only go on the Congo River during these times, only going to Sangha River during the rainy season. We will see what time brings, but I hope the best for Ducret Expeditions, because such courage to establish the first river cruise in style on the Congo River deserves to be rewarded.