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Faroe Islands - Wild and Beautiful

14 Days around the Faroe Islands (June 2017)

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

September 9^th, 2017

As often, it was a picture I had seen in a magazine that caught my attention for the Faroe Islands. A stunning cliff scenery, with a waterfall right into the sea and a small village and mountain in the background. 'Too beautiful' was my first thought, 'must be a fake'. A short research in the internet proved me wrong. At that time, the only thing I knew about the Faroe Islands was that the Austrian Football National Team once lost 0:1 in an UEFA Euro qualification game. That was a big story in the newspapers, considering the less than 50,000 inhabitants of the Faroe - of which 7,000 are registered football player btw.

Copenhagen

As the flight to the Faeroes was going via Copenhagen, we took the opportunity for a stopover of two days, to visit the Danish capital. I was shocked when I was looking for a hotel, as the general room prices are astronomical. I finally managed to get a better deal by AirBnB for the three of us, though still expensive. General living cost for food, etc. are similar high. So be prepared. Two to three days is probably enough to explore the city, as most sights are close together.

Considering the size and inconspicuous appearance of the little mermaid, it's amazing how much fuss is made around her. A never ending stream of tourists burst out of the constantly arriving tour buses.

What a cool surprise. Coincidentally, our visit matched with the annual Copenhagen Carnival. It was good fun to watch the colourful performers.

Copenhagen is Europe's bike city. There are plenty of dedicated bicycle lanes and locals make wide use of them. No wonder, considering the tax on new cars between 100% and 150%.

Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands are located about halfway between Norway and Iceland. It's an autonomous country but part of the Kingdom of Denmark, although not part of the European Union. It's a collection of 18 major islands, which are connected by ferry, underwater tunnels, bridges or the regular helicopter. The roads are quite good and a rental car is perfect to independently explore the area. Beside the car, we arranged beforehand five accommodations via AirBnB. 4 nights in Hosvik, 3 in Hvalba, 4 in Klaksvik, 1 on Mykenes and 1 in Bour. A good combination, but unfortunately we had to skip the "Bird Island" of Mykenes, as the boat could no go because of strong currents. Originally we had planned a flight by helicopter but it was solidly booked on that Friday. So my recommendations for Mykenes: Try to go there at the beginning of your trip to be flexible, and if you plan by helicopter: avoid the busy weekends when locals fly over.

A fantastic resource about the Faeroes, including excellent descriptions of hikes, can be found here. Highly recommended for planning a trip.

Torshaven - the Capital

With around 20,000 inhabitants, Torshaven is by far the biggest city in the Faroe Islands. The most scenic part is Tinganes, the old part of the town, with its wooden houses covered with turf roofs.

Saksum

This is probably one of the most beautiful areas in the Faroe Islands. It's around 30 minutes from Hvalvik and a very scenic drive along a valley. I went there three times to check out the best light for photos, which is in the evening, around two hours before sunset, at least when the sun is out. When the tight is low, you can walk all the way to the sea.

Tjørnuvík

It's definitely worth driving to this northernmost village. Not only lies Tjørnuvík in a very scenic bay, it offers also excellent views to two famous rocks considered to be two petrified trolls.

Boats

As expected from a country where there is no place more than 5 km away from the sea, fishing is a big industry and almost every town has a kind of harbour with some interesting looking boats around.

Old Whaling Base at Við Áir

A great stop with lots of opportunities to take some interesting photographs. Take your time to wander around the base and don't hesitate to have a look into the burned down generator station.

Lake Leitisvatn

The hike to the end of this lake towards the sea is a must do (3 to 4 hours return). Starting point is the town of Midvagur on Vagar. To see the sea and the lake so close but at different elevations is an unique scene. Not enough, a couple of minutes away on the other side of the cliff a waterfall from the lake goes right into the sea.

Gasadalur

Not long ago, the tiny settlement of Gasadalur could only be reached by a very strenuous hike over a mountain pass or by helicopter. Beside Saksum, this is in my opinion the most scenic area on the Islands. The view with the waterfall into the sea is absolutely stunning. At the viewpoint there are very steep steps down towards the sea. The handrail is not fixed and falling down the steps most probably would be fatal, therefore a sign says no trespassing. For the courageous it's a great perspective from down there too, but in windy and rainy condition I wouldn't try it.

Vestmanna - Boat Tour to the Bird Cliffs

Another must do, if the weather is not too bad. The cliffs are over 500m high and the boat gets very narrow, sometimes even going in caves oder under bridges not much wider than the boat itself. Hundreds of birds are flying around. Great experience. The tours can be booked here in season.

View from our AirBnB House in Hosvik

There are some really nice houses on AirBnB with stunning views. I would definitely prefer this option to the few hotels around.

Climbing Slættaratindur

With 880m this is the highest mountain on the Faroe Islands. Fortunately the starting point, around halfway from Eiði to Funningur, is already at 400m. It's about an hour up and the views over the Islands is quite worth the effort. So if the weather looks good, do not hesitate, it might be your only chance.

Gjógv

This pretty little town in beautiful surroundings seems to be a popular holiday destination also for locals.

Animal Encounter

Kirkjubøur

This is the country's most important historical site, with the ruins of the Magnus Cathedral from around 1300, the Saint Olav's Church from the 12th century and the old farmhouse from the 11th century.

Left Vagar Right Streymoy

Ferry to Suduroy - Fish Factory on Fire

Taking the ferry (timetable) is straight forward. No booking required, just be there 30 minutes before departure. Payment is only required on the way back, right on the ferry. We had been already informed by our landlords that due to a big fire in a fish factory the ferry had to land in Vagur instead of Tvøroyri. The city and harbour had been evacuated due to a possible explosion of the ammoniac tanks in the factory. The fire was so serious that fire trucks, firemen and ships with water canons from all over Faeroes were required to support. Accordingly, our ferry was full of helpers, and once they all arrived, the ferry left earlier as scheduled, but fortunately with us on board.

The extinction of the fire took almost two days and Faeroes biggest fish factory was completely destroyed. A real catastrophe for the town and the many people relying on their job.

Akraberg Lighthouse and Cliffs in the South

What shall I say, another stunning scenery.

The northern Part

We stayed in Hvalba, which is a nice little village with an small supermarket and gasoline station - and not much more. The scenery around is superb.

Hvannhagi

Another scenic must do hike (3h return). Starting point is the end of Ovan Vegur in Tvøroyri.

A worthwhile detour to Famjin

Another very scenic village!

Some impressive Locals

Honestly, until our trip to the Faeroes, sheep looked all the same for me. But here I realised their different appearance and even character. On Sudbury, they are definitely more on the curious, less anxious side.

Back to Torshavn

Around Klaksvik

The weather in the Faeroes can be challenging and in the norther islands around Klaksvik it is said to be even worse than in the other parts. And indeed, it was a mostly cloudy and rainy time during the four days we spent there. Fortunately, we stayed in a cosy boathouse.

Viðareiði

Another scenic spot at the end of the road in the northern islands.

IT's All about Fish

By far the biggest and most important commercial sector is the fish industry. Nowadays especially fish farming. There is almost no fjord without the typical round farming enclosures.

A highly controvers discussed event is the annual whaling, called Grindadrap. We didn't see it but looking at the pictures on the internet it´s a very cruel and bloody spectacle. It's part of the Faeroes history, dating back to Viking times and in the past was a substantial food source in a harsh environment. But nowadays times have changed and eating the meat is not even recommended due to its high concentration of toxic heavy metals. Still the "grind" is considered part of the local identity. Slowly, a rethinking seems to begin, also as tourism becomes a more important factor and photos of dozens killed pilot whales in a blood red sea in front of picturesque little towns is not exactly what most tourist are looking for.

A Day Tour to Kalsoy

Staying around the northern Islands, a visit to Kalsoy, also known as the "Pipe Islands", is obligatory. The nickname comes from its long and narrow shape with just one road that is several times running to very narrow and dark one lane tunnels, a nightmare for all mobile home owners.

Kalsoy can only be reached from Klaksvik by a small ferry that goes four to five times a day and which can get very busy. The time table can be found here. The first day we tried, the waiting lines were so full, that we decided to try it again the next day, coming earlier. But even arriving 45min before the scheduled departure did not bring us on the first ferry ride, so we had to wait another 45 minutes until the ferry returned and fortunately did not stick to the schedule but immideatly went back again. So be there on time and take one of the earlier ferries (latest 10:00h, be aware: this one is not running Thuesday and Thursday).

Forget the Litte Mermaid - The Seal Women rocks

A nice little tale, a beautiful statue. a stunning scenery and no other tourists around to disturb you soaking up the special atmosphere. Sorry little mermaid in Copenhagen, but your sister in Mikladalur is the far better experience.

Kallur Lighthouse

Another easy hike (45 min one way) although some direction definetly helps, brings you to this very unique and spectacular place which made its way into the Nov./Dec. 2007 edition of the National Geographic Traveler Magazin.

Unfortunately, the weather was typical Faeroes: blue sky at the starting point, and 45min later all covered in clouds. But waiting a bit helps. Clouds come and go and the scenery that suddenly appears is worth waiting even hours.

Back to Klaksvik

Space on the ferry is scarce. Every centimetre needs to be used. I kinda got nervous seeing the truck approaching our rental car so close.

The Post Ship to Svinoy and Fugloy

Another great opportunity and highly recommended is joining the post ship on its two hours supply round from Hvannasund to the small settlements Svinoy, Kirk and Hattarvik (timetable). Beside experiencing a part of daily life, there are also good chances to spot puffins.

Impressions from the northern islands

Sunset Atmosphere

Vagar

Our last day two days we spent on the Island of Vagar. Unfortunately our overnight trip to see the puffins on Mykenes was cancelled due to the weather. Fortunately, the house we had booked in Bøur for our last night was already available a day earlier.

For me, the tiny settlement of Bøur is the most beautiful on Faroe, with authentic grass roofed houses, a nice waterfall, a great beach for a walk and a beautiful scenery all around. It's like travelling back in time.

Gasadalur Again

As we had some time and Gasadalur is very close to Bøur, we decided to visit it a second time. This time without blue sky, but dramatic low clouds. It's amazing to see how the character of an area completely changes with the weather. Still beautiful but a completely different atmosphere.

The cancelled boot Race

We were quite excited when we heard about a row boat race in Hvalba. As our highly anticipated trip to the puffins on Mykenes had been cancelled, we though this would be at least a kind of compensation. When we arrived, the boats for the first race were already out on the water at the start line, but suddenly the race was cancelled due to the wind conditions and postponed to the next day. This happened the first time, we were told. Damn, again bad luck, as this was already our last day. Nevertheless, good to see the classical rowing boats and teams on the water.

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