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Central Vietnam - Hidden Wonders

Part 2/3 – 5 Weeks through Thailand, Central Vietnam & Singapore · 03/2026

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

July 26^th, 2026

Welcome

This travel story is separated in three parts, use the links below to the other parts

--> Go to Part 1: Thailand - Pattaya and Koh Chang

--> This is Part 2: Central Vietnam

--> Go to Part 3: Singapore

Motivation - Why to Go?

Vietnam has been drawing me back for years. After exploring the country’s vibrant south and the spectacular landscapes of the north on previous journeys, one piece of the puzzle was still missing: the centre.

Central Vietnam promises a fascinating mix of imperial history, breathtaking cave systems, peaceful countryside, and some of the country’s most atmospheric towns. From the ancient citadel of Hue and the underground wonders of Phong Nha to the lantern-lit streets of Hoi An, this region offers a completely different side of Vietnam.

With a scooter, a camera, and an appetite for Vietnamese food, it feels like the perfect opportunity to complete another chapter of my journey through one of my favourite countries in Asia.

Climate and Best Travel Time

The best time to visit central Vietnam is generally between February and April. During these months, temperatures are warm, rainfall is relatively low, and conditions are ideal for exploring the region’s beaches, historic cities, and spectacular national parks.

From September to December, central Vietnam is more likely to experience heavy rain and occasional typhoons, while May to August often brings very hot and humid weather, especially around Hue and Hoi An.

Spring offers the best balance of pleasant temperatures, green landscapes, and excellent conditions for sightseeing and outdoor adventures.

Facts and Figures

Size: ~331,000 sq. km (≈ slightly larger than Germany is wide, but stretched vertically along the coast)
Population: ~100 million (2025 estimate)
Capital and biggest city: Hanoi – political and cultural capital (~8–9 million in metro area), Largest economic hub: Ho Chi Minh City (~10+ million in metro area)
Ethnic groups: Kinh (Viet) ~85–87 %, Tay, Thai, Muong, Khmer, Hmong, Dao, and over 50 other minority groups ~13–15 % total
Languages: Vietnamese (official national language)
Dozens of minority languages, French and English are increasingly used in tourism and business contexts
Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND)

Vietnam in one Sentence and 5 Fun Facts

A long, narrow country shaped like a stretched “S,” where bustling megacities, ancient imperial towns, and quiet rice field villages all sit surprisingly close together—often connected by roads filled with scooters, endless street life, and an energy that feels constantly in motion.

1. Scooters outnumber everything—including common sense

In Vietnam, scooters are not just transport, they are the national lifestyle. Entire families, live animals, office chairs, and improbable amounts of luggage all share the same two wheels. Crossing the street in cities like Ho Chi Minh City often feels like entering a moving river of scooters and hoping the current likes you.

2. Coffee culture is extremely serious (and extremely strong)

Vietnam is one of the world’s largest coffee producers, and the local style is not for the faint-hearted. From sweet cà phê sữa đá (iced coffee with condensed milk) to the infamous egg coffee, caffeine here is less a beverage and more a controlled substance delivered with ice.

3. The country is shaped like a very long “S”

Vietnam’s geography stretches over 1,600 km from north to south, forming a narrow S-shape along the coast. This means you can experience mountains, beaches, rice terraces, and tropical heatwaves, all in the same trip without ever leaving the country.

4. Street food is basically a national sport

In cities like Hanoi, entire streets transform into open-air restaurants every evening. Tiny plastic stools appear like mushrooms after rain, and meals are served inches from traffic, chaos, and occasionally a scooter exhaust pipe.

5. Traffic rules exist… in theory

Vietnamese traffic is often described as chaotic, but it actually follows its own logic: flow over rules. Honking doesn’t mean anger, it means “I am here, please do not merge into my existence.” Somehow, despite all appearances, it works.

Itinerary

Together with Thailand and Singapore, I booked the flights directly with the airlines and reserved all accommodation in advance through Booking.com and Agoda. For getting around, we kept things flexible. Shorter journeys are easy and inexpensive with Grab, Vietnam’s equivalent of Uber, while longer transfers are booked through 12Go.

Rather than rushing from one highlight to the next, we deliberately chose a slower pace, spending several nights in each destination to explore not only the main sights but also the surrounding countryside.

Our itinerary in Vietnam looked like this:

Da Nang (2 nights) – A first taste of central Vietnam and its modern beach city.
Hue (3 nights) – Exploring Vietnam’s former imperial capital.
Dong Hoi (1 night) – Visiting friends before heading inland.
Phong Nha (4 nights) – Discovering spectacular caves, karst landscapes, and quiet country roads.
Hoi An (8 nights) – Relaxing among rice paddies while exploring one of Vietnam’s most atmospheric towns and its surrounding villages.

Looking back, the slower pace proves to be one of the best decisions of the trip. Instead of constantly packing and unpacking, we have time to discover places beyond the obvious highlights, and those often become the most memorable moments.

Arrival

Arrival in Vietnam? Almost suspiciously easy. No visa drama, no forms, no bureaucratic treasure hunt—just a quick stamp and done. Immigration moves so fast it feels like we’ve accidentally skipped a step.

The airport in Da Nang itself is modern, clean, and actually well organized. Outside, there’s even a dedicated Grabwaiting area that looks more like a chill lounge than a pickup zone: greenery, benches, and helpful staff who seem genuinely interested in making things work. Our Grab arrives in three minutes. Three. I’ve waited longer for coffee.

Fifteen minutes later, our friendly driver drops us at the hotel. Efficient, smooth, no nonsense. Vietnam, you’re making this very easy to like you.

And then: the Sala Danang Beach Hotel.

Big, modern, and surprisingly good value for what we get. Our room? Slightly on the “did we accidentally book something fancier?” side, complete with a great sea view. Upstairs, a pool and bar area that clearly wants to impress—and succeeds—with sweeping views over the city.

Not a bad way to arrive. Not bad at all.

Da Nang

About Da Nang

Da Nang may be Vietnam’s fifth-largest city, but it feels surprisingly relaxed. Once a quiet coastal town, it has transformed into a modern city known for its long sandy beaches, impressive bridges, and vibrant waterfront. At the same time, it’s the perfect base for exploring central Vietnam, with attractions like the Marble Mountains, the Hải Vân Pass, and the historic city of Hue all within easy reach. Whether you’re looking for culture, nature, or simply a few days by the sea, Da Nang has something for everyone.

Where Monkeys Rule

The morning starts with modest expectations and a fantastic breakfast buffet that’s doing most of the motivational work. Plan: a half-day trip to Monkey Mountain and the Marble Mountains. Reality: it turns out to be far more interesting than anticipated.

Our first stop is Monkey Mountain, also known as the Son Tra Peninsula, but let’s be honest, the monkeys clearly won the naming contest. The road winds through lush jungle with occasional views of the ocean. At the top stands the impressive Linh Ung Pagoda, where the towering Lady Buddha gazes serenely out over the sea.

Caves, Temples & Marble

Next stop: something completely different—a marble sculpture shop near the Marble Mountains. And this is where things get unexpectedly fascinating.

The shop is filled with thousands of statues. Big ones, small ones, Buddhas, dragons, abstract shapes, you name it. It’s like someone took an entire art gallery and multiplied it by ten.

We watch craftsmen turning solid blocks of marble into remarkably detailed figures, covered in marble dust like bakers of a very niche, very heavy kind of cake. The scale is what really gets us, row after row after row. We start wondering who is buying all these statues… and whether one might accidentally fit in our suitcase (answer: absolutely not).

Then on to the Marble Mountains themselves. A cluster of limestone hills filled with caves, temples, and viewpoints. There’s a bit of climbing involved, but the reward is worth it: hidden shrines inside caves, shafts of light cutting through the rock, and panoramic views over the coastline.

It’s one of those places where every corner feels slightly different—part nature, part spirituality, part “how did they even build this here?”

By the time we head back, we both agree: this tour was significantly better than expected. Always a nice surprise.

A Relaxed Afternoon in Da Nang

The afternoon then shifts gears completely: rooftop pool at the hotel, zero ambition, maximum relaxation. Floating above the city, drink in hand, looking out over Da Nang, not a bad way to process a morning full of monkeys, mountains, and an overwhelming number of marble statues.

Checking out the local coffee scene in the late afternoon...

...then enjoying a walk on the beach promenade...

...which is lined by countless fish restaurants.

Over the Clous Pass to Hue

For today we’ve organized a transfer to Hue. The drive takes us over the famous Hải Vân Pass, better known as the Cloud Pass. With a name like that, it’s easy to imagine dramatic peaks disappearing into the mist, hairpin bends around towering cliffs, and one jaw-dropping view after another.

The reality is… a little more modest.

Yes, the road winds along the mountains, and there are a few beautiful viewpoints overlooking the South China Sea. But compared to some of the world’s truly spectacular mountain passes, the Cloud Pass is surprisingly tame. Perhaps the weather plays a role—on a misty day, the clouds create a magical atmosphere, but under clear skies, it feels more like a pleasant coastal drive than an epic alpine adventure.

Still, it’s well worth taking the scenic route. The combination of lush green hills, glimpses of the ocean, and the knowledge that this was once the main road between North and South Vietnam makes the journey enjoyable, even if its legendary reputation sets expectations a little too high.

The City of Ghosts

Just outside Hue lies one of the most unusual and surreal places we have seen in Vietnam: the so-called City of Ghosts, officially known as the An Bang Cemetery.

From the moment we arrive, we are completely stunned by the sheer size of the place. What stretches out in front of us looks less like a cemetery and more like an entire city made of tombs. Thousands of brightly colored mausoleums rise from the sand, some small and simple, others enormous, almost like miniature palaces with pillars, dragons, tiled roofs, and ornate gates. The area is so vast that it feels like a labyrinth. You could easily spend days wandering through the maze of graves and still discover new corners.

The reason for these extravagant tombs lies in local tradition and history. Many families from this coastal region migrated decades ago, especially to the United States, and became relatively wealthy abroad. Back home, honoring one’s ancestors is extremely important, so families invest large sums of money into elaborate graves for their relatives. In Vietnamese culture, a beautiful and impressive tomb is a way of showing respect, gratitude, and family pride, even long after someone has passed away.

Walking through the cemetery feels strangely surreal. The tombs stand close together, forming streets and avenues like a silent city. And yet, despite its enormous size, we hardly see any people at all. Occasionally a distant figure appears between the mausoleums, but most of the time it is just us, wandering through this quiet and slightly mysterious landscape.

It’s one of those places that is difficult to describe, part cultural monument, part architectural curiosity, and part ghostly maze. But one thing is certain: the City of Ghosts near Hue is unlike any cemetery we have ever seen.

An Bang Cemetery City of Ghosts, Vietnam

Hue - The Imperial City

About Hue

Few cities in Vietnam are as steeped in history as Hue. For more than 140 years, it served as the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty, leaving behind magnificent palaces, royal tombs, and ancient temples that earned the city a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. But Hue is more than its imperial past. It’s also Vietnam’s culinary capital, famous for its refined cuisine, vibrant street food, and relaxed atmosphere along the Perfume River. A visit here is a journey through the country’s history, culture, and flavors, all in one remarkably charming city.

Our hotel, La Perle, is located in a quiet side road, not far from the famous Walking Street. The rooms are small but perfectly clean and comfortable, and the staff are extremely helpful and always smiling. It is one of the best value-for-money places we stay in on our trip.

A Deep Dive into Hue’s Street Food

In the evening, we join a street food tour led by our guide, Thanh, who introduces us to the rich culinary traditions of Hue. As we wander through lively streets and hidden local eateries, we sample a variety of regional specialties while learning about the stories and customs behind each dish. Every stop offers something new, and by the end of the evening, I’m reminded why Vietnamese cuisine remains one of my absolute favourites, fresh, incredibly diverse, and full of flavour.

What we tried during the tour:

🥢 Bánh bèo – Steamed rice cakes topped with dried shrimp, crispy pork skin, scallion oil, and fish sauce. Soft, delicate, and eaten in one bite.

🥢 Bánh nậm – Banana leaf-wrapped rice dumplings with a silky texture and savory shrimp-pork filling.

🥢 Bánh lọc – Chewy tapioca dumplings filled with shrimp and pork, packed with more bite and bolder seasoning.

🥢 Bánh ram ít – A crispy sticky rice base topped with a soft shrimp dumpling—Hue’s perfect texture combination.

These small dishes reflect Hue’s imperial cuisine, where beautifully crafted bite-sized creations were once served to emperors.

🍜 Bún bò Huế – Hue’s famous spicy beef noodle soup with rich lemongrass broth, thick noodles, and tender beef. Many locals consider it Vietnam’s best soup.

🍚 Cơm hến – Rice with tiny river clams, herbs, peanuts, crispy pork skin, chili, and clam broth. A humble local specialty bursting with contrasting flavors.

🥞 Bánh khoái & Nem lụi – Crispy savory pancake and grilled pork skewers wrapped in rice paper with fresh herbs and dipped in a rich peanut-sesame sauce.

🍧 Chè Huế – A colorful selection of sweet soups and puddings made with beans, fruit, jelly, coconut milk, and other surprising ingredients.

From refined imperial delicacies to bold street food, Hue’s cuisine is all about variety, contrasting textures, and unforgettable flavors.

Vietnam’s Most Famous Sandwich

No visit to Vietnam feels complete without trying a bánh mì. At first glance, it looks like an ordinary sandwich, but one bite quickly proves otherwise. The light, crispy baguette, a legacy of the French colonial period, is filled with an irresistible mix of pâté, grilled meat, fresh herbs, pickled vegetables, cucumber, and chilli. The combination is simple yet perfectly balanced: crunchy, fresh, savoury, and just spicy enough to keep you coming back for another bite.

What makes bánh mì even more special is its everyday role in Vietnamese life. Street vendors prepare them from early morning until late at night, serving office workers, students, and travellers alike. Whether enjoyed as a quick breakfast, a convenient lunch, or a late-night snack, it is one of Vietnam’s most iconic street foods—and one of the tastiest.

Banh Mi Chu Van An was our favourite in Hue run by a wonderful lady.

Mobile Kitchens, Big Flavours

One of the first things you notice in Vietnam is that restaurants aren’t always buildings—sometimes they’re scooters.

As soon as the sun goes down, the streets come alive with countless mobile food stalls. A scooter pulls up, a charcoal fire is lit, and within minutes it’s serving anything from noodle soup and grilled corn to eggs, seafood, or sweet desserts. Every cart is a tiny kitchen on wheels, often specializing in just one dish perfected over years.

Some vendors still cook over glowing charcoal, filling the evening air with the irresistible smell of smoke and sizzling food. Others have been serving the same neighborhood for decades, earning loyal customers who know exactly where to find their favorite late-night snack.

These humble street kitchens are far more than convenient fast food, they’re an essential part of Vietnamese culture. Affordable, authentic, and full of character, they prove that some of the country’s best meals don’t come with a dining room, just two wheels and a passion for good food.

Hue after Dark

As the sun sets, Hue’s Walking Street comes to life. Sidewalks fill with tiny plastic stools, the aroma of grilled meat and fresh herbs drifts through the air, and scootersweave effortlessly between locals and visitors. Cafés, bars, and street food stalls buzz with conversation, creating the perfect place to end a day of sightseeing. Grab an ice-cold beer, watch the city unfold around you, and simply enjoy the lively atmosphere—this is Hue at its most relaxed.

Where Emperors Once Ruled

We set the alarm painfully early with one clear mission: reach the Imperial City before the tour buses. Nothing ruins the illusion of ancient imperial serenity quite like following a guide waving a flag in front of a group wearing identical hats.

Technically, the plan works. There are hardly any foreign tourists.

Instead, we arrive in what seems to be the annual school outing of Hue. Hundreds of students fill the vast courtyards, posing for class photos, laughing with friends, and enthusiastically greeting us with cheerful “Hello!” calls. So much for a quiet morning, but somehow their energy brings the Imperial City to life in a way empty courtyards never could.

The Imperial City is far larger than it appears on a map. Magnificent gates lead to elegant palaces, peaceful temples, ceremonial courtyards, and endless corridors. Built in the early 19th century as the seat of the Nguyen emperors, it was designed to mirror Beijing’s Forbidden City while expressing Vietnam’s imperial identity. Every building carries symbolic meaning, from the colours of the roofs to the carefully aligned gates and gardens.

As we wander through the complex, I unexpectedly become our tour guide, armed with nothing more than ChatGPT on my phone. Somehow, I find myself explaining emperors, royal ceremonies, and architectural symbolism with surprising confidence. Axel and Mel get a private history tour, while I briefly enjoy the illusion of being an expert on Vietnamese imperial history. Everybody wins.

Four hours later, we’ve covered what feels like a small marathon and still haven’t seen everything. The sheer scale of the complex is impressive, and it’s easy to understand why Hue remains one of Vietnam’s most important historical sites.

By early afternoon, we retreat, culturally enriched, slightly overheated, and very ready for a break. The rest of the day unfolds at a slower pace with a visit to our food tour guide’s favourite coffee shop, which doesn’t even show up on Google, followed later by cocktails, a few rounds of games, and absolutely no discussions about emperors or dynasties.

By the time we head out for dinner, the morning already feels like a different day. Ancient imperial grandeur followed by relaxed rooftop vibes. Hue has a remarkably effortless way of balancing both.

Perfect Symmetry

At 7:45 a.m., our driver, arranged by the hotel for the very reasonable price of 800,000 dong, picks us up for a half-day tour around Hue. It turns out to be one of the most varied mornings of the trip.

Our first stop is the Mausoleum of Emperor Minh Mang. If emperors had LinkedIn profiles, his would probably read: “Passionate about symmetry and meticulous planning.” The entire complex follows a perfectly balanced axis of gates, courtyards, temples, lakes, and gardens. Everything feels calm, orderly, and harmonious, almost encouraging visitors to slow down and lower their voices. Minh Mang ruled according to strict Confucian principles, although history records one rather less disciplined achievement—he reportedly fathered more than one hundred children.

Mausoleum of Emperor Minh Mang, Hue, Vietnam

The Emperor Who Built in Stone

The mood changes completely at the Mausoleum of Emperor Khai Dinh. Perched high on a hillside, it demands a long climb before revealing its extravagant interior. While Minh Mang’s tomb blends elegantly into the landscape, Khai Dinh embraced grandeur at every opportunity. Dark stone, European architectural influences, and dazzling mosaicsmade from thousands of pieces of porcelain and coloured glass create an interior unlike anything else in Hue. If Minh Mang’s tomb whispers, Khai Dinh’s certainly prefers to make a dramatic entrance.

Mausoleum of Emperor Khai Dinh, Hue, Vietnam

The Poet Emperor’s Retreat

The Mausoleum of Emperor Tu Duc strikes a very different note again. Surrounded by pine trees, lakes, and quiet pavilions, it feels less like a mausoleum and more like a peaceful retreat. Tu Duc often escaped the pressures of court life here, spending his time writing poetry, hunting, and reflecting by the water. Despite having many wives, he never had children, lending a quiet melancholy to an otherwise tranquil setting.

By now, the personalities of the three emperors almost seem tangible: Minh Mang the perfectionist, Khai Dinh the showman, and Tu Duc the thoughtful poet. Their tombs reveal as much about the rulers themselves as they do about Vietnam’s imperial history.

Mausoleum of Emperor Tu Duc, Hue, Vietnam

The Scent of Tradition

Just outside Hue, one of Vietnam’s most photogenic villages is dedicated to a surprisingly ordinary product: incense. Here, bundles of brightly dyed incense sticks are carefully arranged in colorful fan-shaped displays to dry in the sun, creating a sea of red, yellow, green, and pink.

For generations, local families have handcrafted incense using bamboo, fragrant herbs, and natural resins. While the vibrant displays are a magnet for photographers, they also reflect an important part of Vietnamese culture, where incense is burned daily in homes, temples, and on family altars to honor ancestors and bring good fortune. It’s a beautiful reminder that even the simplest everyday objects can become works of art.

Nature Takes It Back

Our final stop couldn’t be more different. We leave behind imperial grandeur and head to the Ho Thuy Tien Water Park, abandoned, although no longer entirely abandoned.

Once a favourite destination for urban explorers, the former water park has become an attraction in its own right. Walking paths have been cleared, rubbish bins installed, and visitors can even borrow bicycles in exchange for a small donation to the local community. The atmosphere remains wonderfully surreal, dominated by the enormous dragon sculpture rising above the lake. It feels somewhere between a forgotten film set, an oversized art installation, and a place nature is slowly reclaiming. Whatever it is, it’s impossible to forget, and remarkably, admission is still free.

By two o’clock, we’re back at the hotel. In just a few hours we’ve explored three remarkably different visions of imperial Vietnam before ending the morning at one of the country’s strangest modern landmarks. It’s an unexpectedly diverse combination, and one of the most enjoyable excursions of our stay in Hue.

Há» Thuá»· TiÃªn Waterpark, Hue, Vietnam

Two Wheels Rule

Watching the traffic in Hue is almost an attraction in itself. Scooters dominate the streets, carrying everything from entire families and towering stacks of boxes to fresh flowers and, occasionally, what seems like half a furniture store. They are the city’s lifeline, cheap, practical, and perfectly suited to Vietnam’s bustling streets.

But look a little closer, and you’ll spot an incredible variety of vehicles sharing the road. Traditional cycle rickshaws still pedal through the city, electric scooters quietly weave between the traffic, while bicycles, cars, and countless motorbikes all somehow move together in what looks like complete chaos, but works surprisingly well.

Crossing the street may require a leap of faith, but after a while you realize there’s an unwritten rhythm to it all. In Hue, the traffic isn’t just a way to get around, it’s part of the city’s everyday charm.

An Evening Along the Perfume River

After a day of exploring emperors’ tombs and ancient temples, a walk along the Perfume River is the perfect way to slow down. Palm-lined promenades invite locals and visitors alike for an evening stroll, while colorful dragon boats wait patiently to take passengers on leisurely cruises. As dusk settles, bridges and riverside walkways light up in vibrant colors, reflecting across the calm water and giving the city a completely different atmosphere.

There’s nothing you have to do here. Just wander, watch the boats drift by, find a bench, and enjoy the gentle rhythm of Hue. Sometimes the simplest moments become the ones you remember most.

On the Way to Dong Hoi

Our destination today is Dong Hoi, where we’re meeting some friends. Rather than rushing straight there, we’ve arranged a private transfer through the hotel for 2,300,000 dong, giving us the freedom to make a few interesting stops along the way.

Our first stop is the Pilgrimage Center of Our Lady of La Vang, Vietnam’s most important Catholic pilgrimage site. Standing in front of one of the country’s holiest places, it’s the perfect moment to ask ChatGPT for a quick crash course on religion in Vietnam, and, as it turns out, the answer is far more interesting than we expected.

Religion in Vietnam

Coming from Thailand, where Buddhism dominates daily life, Vietnam feels surprisingly diverse. While 70–80% of Vietnamese have no official religion, spirituality remains deeply woven into everyday life.

☸️ Buddhism

Buddhism (mainly Mahayana) shapes Vietnamese values and traditions. Pagodas, incense, and offerings are common sights, especially during festivals and family celebrations.

🕯️ Ancestor Worship

The true spiritual heart of Vietnam is ancestor worship. Almost every home has an altar where families honor their ancestors with regular offerings, regardless of their formal religion.

⛪ Christianity

Catholicism, introduced during French colonial rule, is Vietnam’s second-largest religion. Large churches and pilgrimage sites, particularly in central Vietnam, reflect its lasting influence.

🌏 Other Religions

Vietnam is also home to uniquely Vietnamese faiths such as Cao Dai and Hoa Hao, alongside smaller Muslim, Protestant, and Hindu communities.

🏛️ Religion Today

Although Vietnam is officially governed by the Communist Party and religious institutions are regulated, people are generally free to practice their beliefs.

🌿 What You’ll Notice

As a traveler, religion in Vietnam feels quiet but ever-present. Temples stand beside churches, incense burns everywhere, and many people blend different traditions. It’s less about belonging to one religion and more about living a deeply spiritual life.

At the 17th Parallel

A short stop at the Hiền Lương Bridge is a powerful reminder that Vietnam was once divided. From 1954 to 1975, this modest bridge marked the 17th Parallel, separating North and South Vietnam. Families found themselves on opposite sides overnight, and crossing was impossible for many years.

Hiá»n LÆ°Æ¡ng Bridge â 17th Parallel, Vietnam

Life Beneath the Battlefield

Further north, close to the former DMZ, we visit one of the most haunting places of the Vietnam War: the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

From the outside, it looks like just another historical site. But once we descend into the narrow passages, it quickly becomes clear that this was far more than a tunnel system, it was an entire underground village.

Built during the war, the tunnels stretch for nearly two kilometers and reach depths of up to 30 meters. Entire familieslived here for years to escape relentless bombing. There were homes, kitchens, wells, a meeting hall, and even a maternity room. Remarkably, 17 children were born underground.

Walking through the dimly lit corridors is an intense experience. The ceilings are low, the air feels heavy, and the cramped space offers a sobering glimpse of what daily life must have been like while war raged just a few meters above.

Unlike the famous Cu Chi Tunnels, which were primarily built for guerrilla warfare, Vinh Moc was created for survival. Its purpose was to protect an entire community, not to wage war.

Our guide grew up in the nearby village, and as she speaks about her grandparents’ experiences, her voice begins to crack. Whether every emotion is spontaneous or partly shaped by years of telling this story doesn’t really matter. The effect is the same: history suddenly becomes deeply personal.

Stepping back into the sunshine, it’s hard to reconcile the peaceful countryside with the suffering that unfolded beneath our feet. If there’s one place to better understand the human cost of the Vietnam War, this is it.

🇻🇳 The Vietnam War – A Country Shaped by Conflict

Traveling through central Vietnam, it’s impossible to escape the legacy of the Vietnam War. From the Vinh Moc Tunnels to the former DMZ, reminders of this defining chapter are everywhere.

🌏 Why the War Started

After World War II, Vietnam sought independence from French colonial rule. Following France’s defeat in 1954, the country was divided into communist North Vietnam and anti-communist South Vietnam. Supported by opposing Cold War powers, the conflict soon became one of the era’s most significant proxy wars.

💣 The War

The fighting intensified during the 1960s as the United States deployed more than 500,000 troops. Heavy bombing, guerrilla warfare, and battles across the country devastated both soldiers and civilians. Sites like the Vinh Moc Tunnelsshow how entire communities survived by living underground.

📊 Key Facts

Duration: 1955–1975
U.S. fatalities: ~58,000
Vietnamese deaths: 2–3 million+
Bombs dropped: More than during all of World War II
Agent Orange: Its environmental and health effects are still felt today.

🏁 The End

In 1975, North Vietnamese forces captured Saigon, ending the war and reunifying the country under communist rule. The city was later renamed Ho Chi Minh City.

🕊️ Vietnam Today

Modern Vietnam looks firmly to the future. Bustling cities, a young population, and a fast-growing economy have replaced the scars of war. The conflict is remembered, but it no longer defines the country’s identity.

A Vietnames Family Reunion

One of the most memorable moments of our trip isn’t a famous attraction at all. Back home, Thi Lang owns our favorite Asian restaurant, and when she heard about our travel plans, she immediately invited us to visit her family in Dong Hoi.

Her home is impressive, almost like a small Greek palace, complete with a beautiful koi pond. But it’s the atmosphere inside that makes the visit so special. Alongside Thi Lang and her eldest daughter, her two other daughters have flown in from Germany with their families, turning the house into a lively family reunion.

Within minutes, we’re no longer just visitors but part of the cheerful hustle and bustle. Children are playing, conversations fill every corner, and delicious food keeps appearing on the table…aehh…floor. It’s a wonderful glimpse into Vietnamese family life, warm, generous, and completely off the tourist trail. Sometimes, these unexpected personal encounters become the highlights of a journey.

Phong Nha
Into Vietnams Underground World

About Phong Nha

Nestled among dramatic limestone mountains, Phong Nha is Vietnam’s adventure capital. The region is home to Phong Nha–Kẻ Bàng National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its spectacular cave systems, lush jungle, and underground rivers. It even boasts Sơn Đoòng, the world’s largest cave. Whether you’re exploring caves, hiking through the rainforest, or simply enjoying the peaceful countryside, Phong Nha is one of Vietnam’s greatest natural treasures.

In the morning, we take a Grab to Phong Nha, which only takes about one hour.

For our stay in Phong Nha, we choose the Nguyen Shack Retreat, a peaceful hideaway with comfortable bungalows overlooking a quiet lake and surrounded by lush greenery. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring the caves.

The real stars of the property, however, aren’t the guests. Friendly pigs, dogs, and cats roam freely around the grounds and seem to have mastered the art of winning everyone’s attention. Judging by the number of photos being taken, they’re at least as popular as the scenery.

The restaurant serves good Vietnamese food, making it easy to stay in for dinner. That said, you’ll find even better dining options in Phong Nha town, if you don’t mind the short ride. With its beautiful setting and relaxed atmosphere, though, it’s tempting to simply stay put and enjoy this little slice of countryside.

Nguyen Shack Retreat, Phong Nha, Vietnam

A first exploration tour in the afternoon

Vietnam’s Underground World

The morning begins with a familiar travel dilemma: adventure or dry clothes. Rain falls steadily outside, and even we—by now seasoned scooter riders—decide that setting off straight into a downpour isn’t the brightest idea. Instead, we order another coffee, watch the rain, and pretend that waiting two hours was part of the plan all along.

Eventually, the weather relents just enough for us to head towards Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, home to some of Vietnam’s most spectacular caves and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our destination is Tien Son Cave and Phong Nha Cave, both reached by a scenic thirty-minute boat ride along the Son River. Although the boat can accommodate up to twelve passengers, we decide not to wait for others to join us. It is an expensive luxury, but one that proves worthwhile later.

The cruise itself is wonderfully peaceful. Dense jungle lines the riverbanks, fishing boats drift past, and small villages appear between the trees. Their surprisingly large churches immediately catch my attention. With their tall steeples rising above the rooftops, they look strangely familiar, reminding me more of a village in southern Germany than rural Vietnam.

Our first stop is Tien Son Cave, also known as the Dry Cave. Reaching it requires climbing around 500 steps to the entrance, perched high above the river. At the bottom, that sounds perfectly manageable. Halfway up, it suddenly feels like a terrible decision. By the time we reach the top, we’re questioning both our fitness and our optimism.

Back at the river, our boat glides only a few hundred metres farther to the entrance of Phong Nha Cave. Unlike Tien Son Cave, this cave can only be explored by boat. Here, however, the peaceful atmosphere briefly disappears. Dozens of boats queue outside the entrance, transforming the river into something resembling rush-hour traffic.

Then our unexpected advantage becomes apparent.

With only the two of us on board, our boat is lighter than the others. As soon as the engine is switched off inside the cave, our rower digs her paddle into the water with remarkable determination. Within minutes, we’ve overtaken every other boat and suddenly find ourselves alone in the darkness.

The transformation is immediate. Silence replaces the noise outside as we drift through one of the world’s longest river caves. For around one and a half kilometres, the boat glides beneath enormous vaulted ceilings, past illuminated limestone formations reflected in the still water.

Eventually, we turn around, and the difference couldn’t be greater. On the way back, we pass the long procession of boats we had left behind, making us even more grateful for our unexpected head start.

Before leaving the cave, we step ashore onto a small underground beach and continue on foot through another section of spectacular rock formations. It’s a welcome opportunity to explore the cave from a different perspective, and to remind our legs that the morning’s staircase wasn’t quite enough exercise.

After roughly three hours, we return to town convinced that the excursion is well worth the effort. If there’s one lesson, though, it’s this: arrive early. The first boats leave at seven in the morning, and beating the crowds makes all the difference.

Of course, the weather hasn’t finished with us yet. Halfway back, the rain returns with renewed enthusiasm. By the time we reach the Friendly Garden Restaurant, just a couple of kilometres from the pier, we’re completely soaked. Fortunately, a steaming bowl of pho is exactly what the moment calls for. As we watch the rain fall over the lush green landscape, it becomes one of those simple meals that tastes even better because of the circumstances.

The rest of the afternoon requires no discussion. We return to the hotel, hang up our dripping clothes, and embrace a well-earned afternoon of doing absolutely nothing. After a day of caves, staircases, boats, and an unexpectedly competitive rowing performance, it feels like the perfect ending.

Into Paradise

We set the alarm offensively early, one of those “this better be worth it” mornings. Before sunrise, we are already on our scooters while Phong Nha is still half asleep. The road to Paradise Cave winds through lush jungle, dramatic limestone mountains, and postcard-perfect countryside. After about 45 minutes of riding, interrupted only by a few inevitable photo stops, we arrive just before the first tour buses. Timing couldn’t have been better.

Paradise Cave, Thiên Đường Cave in Vietnamese, more than lives up to its name. Discovered only in 2005, it stretches for over 31 kilometres, making it one of the longest dry caves in Asia. Visitors can explore the first kilometre along elevated wooden walkways, but even that is enough to leave a lasting impression.

The cave feels enormous. Vast chambers disappear into the darkness, with ceilings soaring up to 70 metres high. Delicate stalactites hang like crystal chandeliers, while massive stalagmites rise from the cave floor in shapes that seem almost sculpted by hand. The cool air, the silence, and the soft lighting create an atmosphere that feels almost sacred.

For a few precious minutes, we have the cave almost entirely to ourselves. No guides with loudspeakers, no queues for photographs, just silence and the immense scale of nature. Moments like these are exactly why getting up before dawn is sometimes worth every minute of lost sleep.

By the time we head back, the atmosphere has changed completely. Tour groups stream through the entrance one after another, filling the walkways with voices and camera clicks. The cave remains just as spectacular, but the sense of discovery quickly fades. If there’s one lesson from Paradise Cave, it’s simple: arrive early.

Back on our scooters, we swap the underground world for one of Vietnam’s most scenic roads. The Ho Chi Minh Highway follows parts of the legendary Ho Chi Minh Trail, winding through dense jungle and towering karst mountains with remarkably little traffic. Smooth tarmac, sweeping bends, and breathtaking scenery make it one of the most enjoyable rides of the entire trip.

Yet these peaceful roads carry a remarkable history. During the Vietnam War, the Ho Chi Minh Trail formed an immense supply network stretching through Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. Hidden beneath the jungle canopy, it became the logistical lifeline of North Vietnam despite years of relentless bombing. Riding through this tranquil landscape today, it’s difficult to imagine the conflict that once unfolded here.

Our final stop is Commander Cave, where military operations along the Ho Chi Minh Trail were once coordinated. The cave itself is modest, but its historical significance is immense. Standing inside, surrounded by silence and dense forest, it’s almost impossible to picture this as one of the nerve centres of a war that shaped modern Vietnam.

We ride back into town dusty, slightly sunburned, and very pleased with ourselves. Verdict of the day: early alarms are painful, scooters are freedom, and Paradise Cave is best enjoyed before the buses arrive.

Ducks, Pizza and the Road to Laos

Not every memorable travel day needs a famous landmark. Sometimes, all it takes is a few thousand ducks.

Our morning takes us to the Duck Tang Farm, where we find ourselves surrounded by an astonishing sea of quacking residents. Watching the farmer guide the flock is both impressive and unintentionally hilarious. The ducks seem to move with complete chaos, yet somehow in perfect formation—a feathery traffic jam that works far better than it has any right to.

After all that excitement, lunch calls for something completely different. We head back into Phong Nha for a surprisingly excellent pizza at the Villas Restaurant, proving once again that even in Vietnam, it’s occasionally acceptable to take a brief holiday from Vietnamese cuisine.

The afternoon belongs to the open road. I jump back on the scooter and follow the spectacular M20 towards the Laotian border. The route winds through dense jungle, dramatic limestone mountains, and quiet valleys, with hardly another vehicle in sight. Every bend reveals another excuse to stop for a photo, another reminder that sometimes the journey really is the destination.

By the time I return to Phong Nha, the odometer has gained a few more kilometres, my camera another collection of landscapes, and my appreciation for Vietnam’s incredible roads has grown yet again. Some days don’t need a packed itinerary, they simply need a scooter, an empty road, and the freedom to see where it leads.

On the Way to Hoi An

Today is mostly a transit day as we leave Phong Nha for the eight-hour journey south to Hoi An. Armed with low expectations, and the collective internet wisdom that “Vietnamese buses are chaos on wheels”, we brace ourselves for an interesting experience.

To our surprise, the journey is… actually rather pleasant.

The sleeper bus is comfortable, reasonably punctual, and far less dramatic than its reputation suggests. No mysterious breakdowns, no chickens wandering down the aisle, no suicidal overtaking manoeuvres, and no existential crisis somewhere along the highway. Just a long but surprisingly relaxing ride through the ever-changing landscapes of Central Vietnam.

Hoi An - The Imperial City

About Hoi An

Few places in Vietnam are as atmospheric as Hoi An. Once one of Southeast Asia’s most important trading ports, the town flourished between the 15th and 19th centuries as merchants from China, Japan, Europe, and beyond exchanged goods and ideas here. This rich cultural heritage is still visible today in its beautifully preserved Old Town, where Chinese assembly halls, Japanese merchant houses, colourful temples, and French colonial buildings stand side by side.

Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hoi An is famous for its lantern-lit streets, riverside cafés, tailor shops, and outstanding cuisine. While the historic centre can become busy, especially after sunset, it remains one of Vietnam’s most photogenic and rewarding places to explore, whether wandering its narrow lanes, enjoying the local food, or simply watching life unfold along the Thu Bon River.

As an added bonus, the bus company even includes a free shuttle directly to our accommodation: Four Seasons Villa. For one glorious second, my travel-weary brain processes this as Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai. You know, the place with private villas, infinity pools, discreet luxury, and staff who probably fold your towels into works of modern art before you’ve even left the bathroom.

Reality, however, gently clears its throat. Not Four Seasons. Four Seasons Villa. Slightly different price category.

Fortunately, it’s a pleasant surprise. The small, family-run hotel is beautifully maintained and sits right in the middle of lush rice paddies. Endless shades of green stretch out behind the property, creating a wonderfully peaceful setting that immediately makes us slow down.

My only tiny disappointment is being allocated a ground-floor room. I had already imagined myself standing dramatically on a balcony, coffee in hand, gazing thoughtfully across the rice fields like the author of a bestselling travel memoir.

That fantasy lasts approximately three minutes. Then I notice that our terrace opens almost directly onto the swimming pool. Suddenly, sacrificing the elevated view feels like an outstanding strategic decision.

Hoi An is noticeably hotter than Phong Nha. The heat doesn’t simply welcome you—it wraps itself around you like an overly affectionate blanket that refuses to let go. Within minutes, it becomes obvious that the pool is going to play a starring role over the next few days.

Hoi An Four Seasons Villa, Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An – Vietnam’s Most Beautiful Old Town

Some places impress with grand monuments or spectacular landscapes. Hoi An does something much simpler, it slows you down.

The best way to experience Hoi An is simply to wander. Narrow lanes reveal cosy cafés, family-run restaurants, tailor shops, and hidden courtyards, while life unfolds at a refreshingly unhurried pace. With much of the Old Town closed to traffic during the day, exploring on foot or by bicycle is a pleasure.

As evening falls, thousands of lanterns illuminate the streets and the Thu Bon River, creating the iconic scene Hoi An is famous for. It can become busy, but stepping just a few streets away quickly brings back the town’s quieter charm.

Hoi An is often called Vietnam’s most beautiful town. Whether that’s true is a matter of taste, but few places invite you to slow down, get pleasantly lost, and simply enjoy the atmosphere quite like this one.

Tucked away just beyond Hoi An’s Old Town, the Hoi An Prison Relic offers a sobering contrast to the town’s otherwise relaxed atmosphere. Built by the French colonial administration in the early 20th century, the prison later held political prisoners during both the colonial period and the Vietnam War.

Today, reconstructed prison cells, historical photographs, and personal accounts provide a glimpse into the harsh conditions endured by many inmates. It is not a large museum, but it serves as a quiet reminder that behind Hoi An’s colourful lanterns and historic architecture lies a more complex and often painful history.

A short visit adds valuable historical context to any stay in Hoi An and offers a moment to reflect before returning to the town’s vibrant streets...

...or markets

Sunburn, Sandbags and Second Chances

After breakfast at the Slow Café, we ride our scooter to Tân Thành Beach. Expectations are reasonably high, but reality has other plans. The midday heat is relentless, the sea is almost windless, and the beach still bears the scars of recent typhoons. Large sandbags line the shore in an effort to stop the sea from claiming even more of the coastline. Practical? Absolutely. Photogenic? Not so much.

Fortunately, second chances exist.

A couple of kilometres farther north, A Bang Beach tells a completely different story. For just 80,000 dong, we rent two loungers beneath an umbrella and settle into a surprisingly relaxing afternoon. A gentle sea breeze replaces the oppressive heat, the beach is clean, and attentive staff keep us supplied with cold drinks and excellent food. As someone who usually isn’t much of a beach person, I have to admit, this is actually rather nice.

Back at the hotel, however, the day delivers one final surprise. Despite spending almost the entire afternoon in the shade, my stomach has somehow turned a magnificent shade of red. Apparently, white sand reflects sunlight with the enthusiasm of a giant mirror. Lesson learned. When it comes to tropical beaches, there is no such thing as too much sunscreen.

My Son – The Lost Kingdom of the Cham

Our alarm goes off at 5:00 a.m., a time usually reserved for monks, fishermen, and people making highly questionable life decisions. Today, we proudly join that exclusive club. The mission is simple: reach My Son Sanctuary before the tour buses.

We leave Hoi An while it’s still dark, riding our scooters through sleepy villages and endless rice fields. As the first light of dawn spreads across the landscape, a thin layer of mist hangs over the paddies, and water buffalo emerge like prehistoric creatures. It’s a magical scene… until reality flies straight into our faces.

Apparently, we are not just travelling through nature, we’re actively eating it. At 50 km/h.

An hour later, we arrive at My Son among the first visitors. Nestled in a lush valley, the ancient red-brick temples slowly emerge from the morning mist, creating an atmosphere that feels almost mystical.

Built between the 4th and 13th centuries, My Son was the spiritual heart of the Cham Kingdom. Influenced by Hinduism, the Cham dedicated these temples primarily to Shiva. Although many structures were damaged by time, war, and American bombing during the Vietnam War, the remaining towers still hint at the importance of this once-powerful civilization.

One of the site’s enduring mysteries is its construction. Even today, archaeologists are still debating how the Cham managed to join their bricks so seamlessly, with almost no visible mortar. Whether it was remarkable engineering or ancient magic remains open to discussion. Personally, I’m not ruling out the magic.

We spend the next two hours wandering between the temples as the rising sun slowly burns away the mist, revealing intricate carvings of gods, dancers, and mythical creatures.

A traditional Cham dance performance adds another layer of atmosphere, making it easy to imagine this valley as a thriving religious centre centuries ago.

By the time we return towards the entrance, the spell is beginning to fade. Large tour groups stream in, armed with matching hats, selfie sticks, and the unstoppable confidence of people who enjoyed a perfectly reasonable breakfast and a full night’s sleep. We exchange a brief glance as we pass. They have their comfortable morning. We had the temples almost to ourselves. Getting up at five suddenly feels like one of the better decisions of the trip.

Learning to Trust Vietnamese Traffic

At first glance, Vietnamese traffic looks like complete chaos. Scooters come from every direction, intersections resemble abstract art, and the constant chorus of horns makes every junction feel like it could become your final travel anecdote.

Then something unexpected happens. You begin to understand the rhythm.

Vietnamese traffic isn’t really chaotic, it’s fluid. Instead of rigid rules, it relies on thousands of tiny adjustments. Everyone watches everyone else, anticipates their next move, and somehow keeps the whole system flowing. It shouldn’t work. Yet it does.

The first rides are a mixture of excitement and mild panic, but with every kilometre, confidence grows. Without noticing, we begin riding more like the locals, moving with the flow instead of fighting it.

Around Hoi An, the scooter proves to be the perfect way to explore. Quiet roads wind through emerald-green rice paddies, sleepy villages, hidden cafés, and stretches of coastline, with another photo stop waiting around almost every corner. While the Old Town is best explored on foot or by bicycle, the scooter offers unmatched freedom beyond its historic streets.

By the end of our stay, we’ve stopped seeing Vietnamese traffic as something to survive and started embracing it. It still looks like complete chaos.

We’re simply part of it now.

Tailor Made in Hoi An

Few places are as closely associated with custom-made clothing as Hoi An. Stroll through the Old Town and you’ll pass hundreds of tailor shops, all promising custom-made garments within a day or two. Finding a tailor is easy; finding the right one is another matter.

Before arriving, I spent hours researching recommendations. My goal was to have two linen shirts and three pairs of linen travel trousers made, based on my favourite trousers from Germany, but with one important upgrade: hidden zippered pockets for my passport, wallet, and phone, and a bit more durable linen.

Simple in theory. Less so in practice.

Finding someone who understood different linen qualities and my rather unusual request proved surprisingly difficult. Eventually, I found exactly what I was looking for at Mien’s Tailor, where the manager immediately inspired confidence.

Even then, perfection didn’t happen overnight. Five visits, several adjustments, and a few misunderstandings later, the shirts and trousers were finally exactly as I had imagined them.

The experience taught me that many tailor shops focus on fast turnaround rather than meticulous craftsmanship. If you’re looking for something straightforward, you’ll probably be delighted. If you have specific requirements, patience is essential.

In the end, I paid about half of what comparable clothing would have cost at home while getting exactly the features I wanted. Would I do it again? Absolutely, but only if I had several days to spare. Good tailoring, like good travel, simply can’t be rushed.

Beyond the Lanterns – Hoi An’s Living Traditions

Hoi An’s lantern-lit streets attract most visitors, but the countryside surrounding the town tells a very different story. Curious to discover what lies beyond the Old Town, I join a small scooter tour through the nearby villages. It is led by a local photography enthusiast whose goal isn’t to show the classic postcard sights, but the authentic everyday life of Hoi An and the traditional crafts that are slowly disappearing.

It quickly becomes clear that this is no ordinary sightseeing tour. Instead of rushing from one attraction to the next, we meet local families, learn about centuries-old traditions, and gain a rare glimpse into a side of Hoi An that most visitors never experience. Without a doubt, it becomes one of the highlights of my entire journey through Vietnam.

Our day begins at the rather uncivilised hour of 4:00 a.m. The early start has a good reason: we want to witness one of the last remaining traditional noodle workshops in the Hoi An area before the day’s production is finished.

Like many traditional crafts, handmade noodle making is slowly disappearing as small family businesses are replaced by industrial factories. Watching the process is a reminder that something as ordinary as a bowl of noodles begins long before it reaches a restaurant. Every step, from preparing the rice batter to steaming, drying, and cutting the delicate noodles, is still done entirely by hand using techniques that have changed little for generations.

The reward comes at the end. We are invited to taste the freshly made noodles. It sounds almost too simple, yet the flavour is out of this world. The noodles are incredibly soft and fresh, perfectly harmonising with the drizzle of spiced fish sauce. It’s one of the simplest dishes I try in Vietnam, yet also one of the most memorable, a reminder that exceptional ingredients often need very little to shine.

The next family business has been producing fish sauce for generations. The unmistakable smell announces our arrival well before we reach the workshop. It may not be everyone’s favourite perfume, but fish sauce is one of the foundations of Vietnamese cuisine, and seeing the traditional fermentation process offers a new appreciation for an ingredient that appears in almost every local meal.

Like a wine tasting, we’re invited to sample fish sauces aged between three and nine months. Even to my untrained palate, the differences are surprisingly noticeable. The younger sauces taste lighter and saltier, while the oldest develops a much deeper, more complex umami flavour. It’s a fascinating reminder that one of Vietnam’s most essential ingredients deserves the same craftsmanship and patience that wine lovers happily celebrate elsewhere.

Breakfast follows at a small coffee roastery, where the rich aroma of freshly roasted beans fills the air. Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee producer, and enjoying a cup just metres from the roasting drums somehow makes the morning coffee taste even better. The infused coconut coffee is outstanding.

A short roadside stop to try local peanuts.

Equally fascinating is our visit to an elderly couple who have been making traditional futons by hand for decades. With remarkable speed and precision, they transform loose fibres into perfectly shaped carpets using little more than experience and well-practised movements. Watching them work feels like stepping back into a time before machines quietly replaced skilled craftsmanship.

Sadly, they tell us that each year it becomes more difficult to make a living from their craft. Younger generations have largely traded the traditional hard fibre futons for modern spring and foam mattresses, and demand continues to decline. Like so many traditional skills, their knowledge risks disappearing with the people who have spent a lifetime mastering it.

Meeting them is a privilege, but also a poignant reminder that preserving cultural heritage isn’t just about protecting historic buildings. Sometimes, it’s the quiet, everyday traditions that are most at risk of being lost.

Our final stop is perhaps the most unusual. At a small family-run rice wine producer, shelves are lined with an astonishing variety of infused spirits. Snakes, seahorses, chameleons, birds, lizards, ginseng, and countless herbs all promise different medicinal benefits according to traditional Vietnamese beliefs.

Naturally, we’re invited to sample a few. Rather than choosing familiar ingredients, we simply point at random bottles, somewhere between curiosity and mild concern about what might end up in our glasses. The owner, thoroughly enjoying the game, waits until everyone has tasted before revealing the contents. Watching the expressions on our faces as the mystery ingredients are announced turns out to be almost as entertaining as the tasting itself.

To my admittedly untrained palate, most of the samples taste remarkably similar: strong rice liquor with only subtle differences, although a few stand out with distinctly herbal or earthy flavours. Our hosts explain that each infusion is traditionally believed to serve a different purpose, from boosting vitality to treating specific ailments. Whether science agrees is another question entirely, but the pride and enthusiasm with which these remedies are presented leave little doubt about their cultural significance.

By the end of the tour, one thing becomes clear. Hoi An isn’t just a beautifully preserved historic town. Beyond the lanterns and souvenir shops, families are still preserving traditions that have shaped everyday life for generations. They may not attract the same crowds as the Old Town, but they offer something just as valuable, a glimpse into the living culture that continues to define this remarkable corner of Vietnam.

Rice Fields, Cafés and Slow Mornings

One of the biggest surprises in Hoi An isn’t found in the Old Town at all. Leave the lantern-lined streets behind for just a few minutes, and the scenery changes completely. Narrow lanes wind through emerald-green rice paddies, water buffalo graze in the fields, and the pace of life slows to match the gentle rhythm of the countryside.

Staying just outside the historic centre turns out to be one of the best decisions of the trip. Our small hotel is surrounded by rice fields, and every morning begins with a view of endless shades of green rather than busy streets. It feels wonderfully peaceful, yet the Old Town is only a short scooter ride away.

Breakfast quickly becomes part of the experience rather than just the first meal of the day. One of our favourite spots is Slow Café in nearby Tra Que Vegetable Village. The name couldn’t be more fitting. From the shaded veranda, we watch local gardeners tending their plots while the first visitors slowly make their way through the village. Nobody seems to be in a hurry, and after a few days in Hoi An, neither are we.

Tra Que itself has supplied Hoi An with fresh herbs and vegetables for centuries. Thanks to fertile soil and traditional farming methods, the village is renowned for producing many of the fragrant ingredients that give central Vietnamese cuisine its distinctive flavour. Seeing neat rows of coriander, basil, mint, and other herbs growing just a few kilometres from the restaurants where they are served adds another layer to every bowl of pho or plate of fresh spring rolls.

Exploring the countryside by scooter only reinforces that feeling. Every quiet back road reveals another small café, a family home, or a field where farmers are already at work. It’s the kind of landscape that constantly tempts us to stop for yet another photograph, even when we promised ourselves we’d keep riding for a while longer.

Hoi An’s Old Town may be the reason most people come here, but its surrounding countryside is what makes us stay a little longer. Between the rice fields, sleepy villages, and unhurried mornings, we discover a side of Vietnam that asks for nothing more than a slow pace, an open mind, and perhaps one more Vietnamese coffee before setting off again.

Hoi An’s Lanterns – More Than Just a Pretty Picture

Today, the colourful lanterns have become the unmistakable symbol of Hoi An, but they are more than just a beautiful photo opportunity. The tradition dates back several centuries, when Chinese and Japanese merchants settled in the prosperous trading port. Lanterns were hung outside homes and businesses to bring good fortune, prosperity, and happiness, a custom that continues to shape Hoi An’s unique atmosphere today.

Rather than simply admiring them, we decide to make our own. During a 90-minute lantern-making workshop, we carefully assemble bamboo frames, stretch colourful silk over them, and discover that creating the perfect lantern requires considerably more patience than it appears. By the end, our fingers are generously decorated with glue, but we’re also the proud owners of three handmade lanterns, and a much greater appreciation for the craftsmanship behind one of Vietnam’s most iconic symbols.

Vietnamese Coffee – Small Filter, Big Flavour

No drink accompanies my travels through Vietnam more faithfully than a cup of traditional Vietnamese coffee. Prepared with a simple metal phin filter, the coffee slowly drips into the cup below, a process that rewards patience rather than speed.

The result is a remarkably strong, rich coffee with an intense aroma. Many locals enjoy it with sweetened condensed milk, creating the famous cà phê sữa đá, but I prefer it black, allowing its bold flavour to take centre stage. After my first cup in 2017, I briefly felt like a squirrel on speed, but I was instantly hooked.

Returning almost a decade later, I discover that some travel traditions are simply too good to change. While trendy cafés now offer countless creative blends and Instagram-friendly creations, I still find myself coming back to the classic phin-brewed coffee from time to time. Sometimes, the original really is hard to beat.

Hoi An After Dark

As the afternoon heat fades, Hoi An begins its daily transformation.

The streets of the Old Town fill with visitors, cafés come alive, and hundreds of colourful lanterns illuminate the historic buildings. Along the Thu Bon River, wooden boats drift past as people release floating lanterns onto the water, each carrying a wish for good fortune. It is easy to see why this has become one of Vietnam’s most iconic scenes. It is also one of the busiest.

The riverside quickly fills with photographers, couples posing for pictures, and visitors exploring the lively night market. Yet Hoi An has a wonderful secret. Walk just a few streets away from the river, and the atmosphere changes almost instantly. The crowds disappear, lanterns still glow softly above the narrow alleys, and locals gather outside their homes as bicycles quietly roll past.

These quieter corners become my favourite places to explore with a camera. Without the crowds, the warm lantern light and centuries-old merchant houses create the timeless atmosphere that has made Hoi An a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hoi An after dark is more than its famous lanterns. It’s a place that effortlessly balances lively streets with peaceful back alleys, rewarding anyone willing to wander just a little farther.

Final Thoughts – Completing the Picture of Vietnam

This isn’t my first journey through Vietnam. A previous trip had already taken me to the country’s vibrant south and the spectacular landscapes of the north. This time, it is central Vietnam’s turn, and once again, the country manages to surprise me.

Hue, Phong Nha, and Hoi An each have their own distinct character. Hue offers a fascinating glimpse into Vietnam’s imperial past, Phong Nha reveals an extraordinary underground world hidden beneath its limestone mountains, and Hoi An slows life down with its lantern-lit streets, surrounding rice fields, and relaxed atmosphere. Together, they complete my picture of a country whose diversity is remarkable.

Beyond the famous sights, it is once again the small moments that stay with me the longest: drifting silently through Phong Nha Cave, riding a scooter along the Ho Chi Minh Highway, having dinner at local friends’ home, discovering family-run workshops in the countryside, or ending the day with a bowl of pho and an iced Vietnamese coffee.

Vietnam also remains one of my favourite countries to explore. The food is among the best in Asia, travelling is remarkably easy, and hiring a scooter opens the door to places that are impossible to appreciate from the window of a tour bus. Add welcoming people, dramatic landscapes, and a rich cultural heritage, and it becomes easy to understand why returning here never feels repetitive.

After three journeys covering the north, south, and now the centre, I feel I finally have a much more complete picture of Vietnam. And yet, it still doesn’t feel complete. There are countless roads left to ride, hidden valleys to discover, and bowls of pho waiting somewhere around the next corner.