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Caucasus Road Trip - Azerbaijan, Georgia, Armenia

Four weeks in May 2024

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

July 6^th, 2025

Motivation - Why to Go?

One region, three countries, countless stories - that's exactly what motivated me to travel to the South Caucasus. At first glance, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan could not be more different: their own languages, religions, cultures and political realities. And yet they are linked by history, geography and centuries of interdependence. This diversity in such a small area made the region incredibly exciting for me. I wanted to immerse myself in the flavoursome cuisine of Georgia, the ancient monasteries of Armenia and the modern contrasts of Azerbaijan. I was attracted by the alternation between ancient traditions and young societies, between mountain villages and metropolises, between familiar and foreign.

I don't just wanted to see the sights, I wanted to understand them: How do people live in the Caucasus today? How do the past and present characterise everyday life? And what unites the people in this region - despite all the differences?

For me, this trip was an attempt not just to travel through the Caucasus, but to really get to know it a bit deeper. Beside myself and my partner Melanie, this time also our good friends Steffi and Axel joined in.

Climate and Best Travel Time for the Caucasus

The region has a diverse climate due to its varied geography, ranging from subtropical in the lowlands, e.g. the Black Sea coast to alpine in the mountains. Summers (June to August) can be hot, especially in Baku and the Caspian coast, with temperatures reaching 35°C (95°F). Winters (December to February) are mild in coastal areas but cold and snowy in the mountains. The best time to visit the region is during spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October). Spring brings mild temperatures and blooming landscapes while autumn is ideal for exploring cultural sites and enjoying the wine harvest in Georgia and Armenia. For hiking in Svaneti or Tusheti the Summer month June to September are the best, as some passes are not open until late May.

Caucasus Road Trip - Azerbaijan, Georgia, Armenia

ITINERARY

After doing some research, I came across the website of Kaukasus-Reisen. This German-owned travel company is based in Tbilisi and specialises in organising personalised tours of the region. The website provided great inspiration for possible itineraries, and I was particularly pleased to see that exploring the area by rental car was a viable option.

The final itinerary was a combination of my initial proposal and their additional recommendations and suggestions. I particularly liked that they included activities such as wine tasting, half-day guided tours of Tbilisi and Yerevan, cooking classes, and dinner with local families. These are all great ways to get in touch with the local community. For this reason, we also decided to mostly stay in owner-run guesthouses and small hotels. In Georgia and Armenia, we opted for a Toyota Fortuner, which offers ample space and comfort. For our short time in Azerbaijan, we decided to hire a driver and guide, and then fly from Baku to Tbilisi, which was quite reasonable.

After exchanging a few emails, I received one of the most organised and structured itineraries I have ever seen, and we were all very happy with it.

Day 1: Flight Frankfurt - Baku - H: Sapphire Inn
Day 2: Baku - Exporing the City
Day 3: Baku - Halfday tour to Absheron Peninsula
Day 4: Drive to Lahik - H: Evim Otel
Day 5: Drive back to Baku and Flight to Tbilisi - H: Sole Palace
Day6/7: Exploring Tbilisi
Day 8: Take over Rental Car, drive to Sighnaghi - H: History
Day 9: Hiking in Lagodechi NP, driving to Telavi - H: Mosimerie
Day 10: Day tour Kachetien
Day 11: Drive to Dilidschan in Armenia - H: EcoKayan
Day 12: Hiking around Dilidschan
Day 13: Driving to Jehegnadsor - H: Green Stone
Day 14: Exploring the area
Day 15: Driving to Yerevan - H: Silk Road
Day 16: Yerevan
Day 17: Driving to Gyumri - H: Berlin ART
Day 18: Driving to Wars and further to Achalziche - H: Almi
Day 19: Driving to Batumi - H: London
Day 20: Exploring Batumi
Day 21: Driving to Mestia - H: Lamish
Day 22/23: Hiking and Exploring the area
Day 24: Driving to Kuitassi - H: Magnolia
Day 25: Driving to Ateni - H: Nika Vacheishvili
Day 26: Exploring the area
Day 27: Driving to Stepanzminda - H: Geni
Day 28: Exploring the area
Day 29: Driving to Tbilisi, car return - H: Sole Palace
Day 30: Flight Back to Frankfurt

Azerbaijan - FACTS AND FIGURES

Size: 86,600 sq. km
Population: ~10,1 million
Capital and biggest city: Baku, with 2 million inhabitants
Ethnic groups: 95% Azerbaijani, 5% Others
Languages: Azerbaijani
Currency: Azerbaijan-Manat, 1 AZB = 0,55€ (05/2024)
Fun Fact: Baku is with 28m below sea level, the lowest lying capital in the world

Baku

Our Turkish Airlines flight from Frankfurt is delayed and we are worried about making our connecting flight from Istanbul, which fortunately is also delayed. Lucky us! The airport in Baku is quite modern, and the immigration process with the e-visa is surprisingly quick. Even our luggage is waiting for us, as is our driver outside the gate. We are driven in a large luxury Mercedes van for 30 minutes to our hotel, Saphire Inn, where huge rooms with a slight mothball flavour are waiting for us.

We have a nightcap at Arzami 1, Texas Pub. With the help of Google Translate and a one-eyed guest who speaks three words of English, we manage to order. Beer is not a problem, but the ladies want tea and coffee, which proves more challenging. Somehow, though, it works, and we are also magically offered a bar of chocolate. All this takes place amid a disco ball atmosphere and techno music. It's a quirky but fun introduction to local pub culture.

Baku is the capital and largest city of Azerbaijan, located on the shores of the Caspian Sea. It's known for its rich history and blends modern architecture with historic landmarks. The Flame Towers, a trio of skyscrapers, dominate the skyline and symbolise the city's modernity and energy industry. Baku's Old City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with narrow alleyways and ancient mosques. The city is also famous for its vibrant nightlife, bustling bazaars and Azerbaijani cuisine. Baku is a fascinating blend of East and West, where tradition meets innovation.

Together with Shura, our guide, we explore the city.

Baku offers an interesting mix of tradition and modernity.

In the old town, we notice the large, beautiful carpets lying in the middle of the pedestrian zone's paths. Several carpet-themed stations have been set up in one square. We find the cleaning process, which involves using a flame burner and brush, particularly exciting. Shura explains that even the dirtiest carpets can be restored to their former glory. This only works with real wool, of course, and not with any plastic fibres.

Azerbaijani carpets are a vital expression of the country's cultural identity and artistic heritage, recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Each carpet tells a story through regional patterns, colors, and symbolic motifs, often passed down through generations. Carpet weaving has long been a source of economic and spiritual value, especially among women in rural communities. Today, Azerbaijani carpets are admired worldwide as both art and cultural legacy. The city even has a Carpet Museum designed to look like a rolled-up carpet.

We stop for lunch at an Imbiss in the city. For dinner, we follow Shura's recommendation and end up at the Dolma Restaurant. Countless waiters dressed in traditional costumes take care of the guests. The food is really tasty, and there's plenty of it. Completely stuffed, we drag ourselves back to the hotel.

Baku at night.

At 10 am, Shura picks us up and we head out to explore the Absheron peninsula with a driver.

On the way, we pass huge oil fields, which are protected from curious eyes by fences and walls. Nevertheless, from time to time we can see hundreds of oil pumps, monotoniously moving upward and downward, stretching all the way to the horizon. Azerbaijan ranks 24th among the world's largest oil-producing countries.

Yanardag, also known as the Burning Mountain, is a naturally occurring gas fire that erupts from a thin, porous layer of sandstone. It has been burning for decades, possibly centuries, and is now a protected historical and cultural site. It's not particularly spectacular, but it's OK for a stop.

The Atashga Zoroastrian Fire Temple is an ancient religious site historically used by Zoroastrians, followers of one of the world's oldest monotheistic religions. Built in the 17th and 18th centuries over a natural gas vent, the temple has a central altar where a sacred flame once burned continuously and since 1969 with a little artificial help.

Zoroastrianism originated in ancient Persia (now Iran) some 3,000 years ago and was founded by the prophet Zarathustra (Zoroaster). The religion centres on the eternal struggle between good and evil. Fire is considered a sacred element, often kept burning in temples as a representation of truth and the divine presence. Today, the religion has only a few followers. Plenty of Indian tourists, roam the place to my surprise.

Back in Baku we visit the spectacular Heydar Aliyev (Ex-dictator, ahem, president) Center, a landmark of contemporary architecture, renowned for its flowing, futuristic design that breaks away from traditional forms. Pretty cool place to take some pictures.

We spend the afternoon exploring the town.

The flaming towers are spectacular at night, especially from a distance. The displayed motifs are frequently changing. Much more interesting than up close.

On the way to Lahic

Shura and the driver pick us up at 8.30am. It's raining cats and dogs. We drive to Gobustan. A visit to the large mud volcanoes is not possible due to the bad weather. The Gobustan petroglyphs are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is a circular route, a very modern, dark-coloured museum and lots of Chinese tourists.

The varied onward journey demonstrates why AZ is said to have nine out of eleven climate types. From fart-dry arid to lush green, there is something for everyone.

Thanks to a hint from our driver, we still get to enjoy the famous mud volcanoes. Some not well known exemplars are located in the middle of nowhere, just a few hundred metres from the road. As we walk closer to the volcanoes, the way becomes increasingly challenging — very slippery and muddy, surprise, surprise. The mud sticks to our shoes like glue and it feels like each shoe weighs an extra 2 or 3 kilos. No matter how hard we try, there is no chance to get the shoes acceptable clean, without water and a brush. So we decide to wrap plastic bags around, to keep at least the bus clean.

The number of supermarket staff in Azerbaijan is certainly ten times higher than in Germany, and this army of employees watches our special shoe fashion with particular suspicion when we enter. We are finally asked to wrap extra plastic bags around our shoes to prevent us from spreading dirt on the floor.

On our way to Lahic, we cross a mountain pass over 2,000 metres high before finally reaching our destination, which is located amidst beautiful green scenery. What a difference to the coastal region.

Lahic

After checking into the Evim Hotel, we thoroughly clean our shoes and then take a tour through the picturesque town centre. It's rather empty. Shura explains that later in the year and at weekends it's bustling with local tourists. The weather today is rather changeable but mostly wet.

On the way back to Baku

As it raining cats and dogs in the morning, the planned visit to a scenic suspension bridge in the area is not possible due to the risk of landslides.

In Shamakhi, we visit the Jummah Mosque from the 8th century. It is the oldest mosque in AZ. Most of the Muslims in AZ are Shiites, which is why they often combine the official 5 prayers into 3 prayer times. But most of the inhabitants are not very devout and often only go to prayer on Fridays or not at all, Shura explains.

Back in Backu we stop at the very impressive Bibi - Heybat Mosque, before....

Good-Bye Azerbaijan

...we finally make our way to the airport for the short flight to Tbilisi, after saying farewell to Shura, who brought us closer to Azerbaijan in a way by making us feel more like travelling with a local friend than an official guide. We loved it.

Welcome to Georgia

Georgia - FACTS AND FIGURES

Size: 69,700 sq. km
Population: ~3,7 million
Capital and biggest city: Tbilisi, with 1.3 million inhabitants
Religion: 87% Christianity, 11% Islam, 2% Others
Ethnic groups: 87% Georgians, 6% Azerbaijanis, 5% Armeniens, 2% Others
Languages: Georgian
Currency: Georgian Lari, 1GEL = 0,35€ (05/2024)
Fun Fact: Georgia was the birthplace of wine (>8000 years ago)

Tbilisi

Our Hotel Sole Palace offers a stunning view over Tbilisi and is conveniently located to explore the city.

Nestled along the banks of the Kura River and surrounded by hills, Tbilisi has a long and complex history stretching back to the 5th century. Historically a crossroads between Europe and Asia, Tbilisi has been influenced by Persian, Byzantine, Arab, Mongol, Ottoman, and Russian empires, which is reflected in its diverse architecture, religions, and culture. The city's old town features winding streets, colorful balconies, Orthodox churches, mosques, synagogues, and even a Zoroastrian fire temple. Today, Tbilisi is known for its vibrant cultural life including underground szene, welcoming atmosphere, excellent cuisine, and as a center for art, music, and politics in the South Caucasus. Some people say, Tbilisi is the new Berlin.

Time to find out. By 10:00am we are picked up by Eka for a city tour.

With Eka we start visiting the extremely scenic historic Spa district, which is not far from the hotel. Tbilisi’s famous sulfur baths (known as Abanotubani) are a defining part of the city's identity, dating back over 1,000 years. Located in the historic Abanotubani district, these domed brick bathhouses tap into natural hot sulfur springs, believed to have healing properties for skin and joints. You can choose between public baths or private rooms, often decorated with traditional tiles and marble. Some of the most popular spas include Orbeliani Baths (with striking blue mosaic façade) and Chreli Abano. A soak here is more than relaxation — it’s a step into the cultural soul of Tbilisi. But not for us, we decide, at least not this time. There are so much more things to explore.

We take the cable car up to Mtatsminda, the holy mountain. At the summit is Kartlis Deba, the Mother of Georgia statue. From here, we can enjoy a fantastic view of the surprisingly green city.

Down in the city we walk with Eka through the small athomspheric streets in the old city. There are seating areas everywhere, streets shaded by trees, vines climbing up balconies and the charm of dilapidated houses. Eka gives us a first insight into a fascinating city.

Without Eka we further explore the city in the afternoon. The Tbilisi Metro first opened on 11 January 1966. It was the fourth metro system in the former Soviet Union, after the ones in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv. We're amazed at how quickly it goes down on a seriously fast elevator. The trains are pretty old, and during the journey it feels like they're moving next to the tracks rather than on them. Quite an experience.

The Sameba Cathedral is huge and impressive, but even more from the outside than inside.

Tbilisi has lot`s of restaurants, pubs and wine bars to enjoy a relaxed evening.

Some typical dishes of Georgian cuisine. We all tried and loved them.

Adjarian Khachapuri: a boat-shaped bread with melted cheese, a raw egg and butter in the centre. Delicious and enough to feed two.

Khinkali, large, juicy dumplings filled with meat (usually beef or pork), rarely also with cheese, mushrooms or potatoes. Important: They are eaten with the hands and the broth in the inside is sucked out first!

Shkmeruli, chicken in a milk and garlic sauce, is a traditional dish from the Racha region in north-west Georgia. It is popular for its garlic flavour and simple but hearty preparation.

Our favourite is the typical Georgian tomato and cucumber salad with a kind of walnut pesto - simple, fresh and full of flavour.

Even in restaurants it`s not uncommon to order compote as beverage

The city is also full of interesting, funny and sometimes bizarre paintings and graffiti.

Given all the anti-Russian graffiti on the streets, the country next door is not really popular. No surprise as Georgia could be one of the next targets of the Russian territorial ambitions in the area. The last conflict is only dating back to 2008 when Georgia wanted to reconquer South Ossetia, which was striving, supported by Russia, for independence. Russia responded with a massive military counter-offensive, invading South Ossetia and later the Georgian heartland. After five days, a ceasefire was reached under EU mediation.

Surprisingly the current government of Georgia — led by the Georgian Dream party — is widely seen as leaning pro-Russian due to a combination of political survival tactics, economic pragmatism, and personal ties to Russia. Deep frustration with the government’s authoritarian drift and a perceived betrayal of the country's pro-European aspirations led too many sometimes severe demonstrations in the last years. We will also experience a small but peaceful demonstration in Kutaisi later.

The dry bridge flee marked is definitely worth a visit, with its many weird and wonderful things to explore.

An interesting sight are the many street dogs in Tbilisi. They are lounging in parks, sidewalks and near metro stations. Most street dogs are docile and used to humans. Aggression is rare and we notice how calm and integrated they are into urban life. Residents often feed them and some dogs have even become local mascots. Some neighbourhoods have "community dogs" that are cared for collectively. The city runs a trap-neuter-return program. Dogs that have been sterilised and vaccinated are tagged with a yellow plastic tag on their ear and allowed to remain free.

Damaged cars, especially without bumpers are a common sight in Tbilisi. Georgia is a major hub for used car imports, especially from the U.S., Japan, and Europe. Many of these cars arrive already damaged because they are much cheaper to buy and repair locally. After minimal repairs, they are resold or driven as-is. Until recently, technical inspections were lax or even non-existent. Aggressive driving culture and heavy traffic also lead to frequent minor collisions. Sometimes we wonder how some cars can still be driven at all, given their condition.

Graffiti in all its forms is a common sight in Tbilisi.

Linville is one of our favourite coffee places due to its cozy unique atmosphere.

In the “Drunk Owl Bar”, two guys with electric bass and electric guitar make good live music. It's not particularly crowded but the guests sing along, especially when Georgian hits are played, pose and film themselves with their smartphones and have fun. Two dogs come to sleep in the pub and choose our corner as their sleeping place. The wifi passort is “Fuckputin”. Our cocktails are great. We like the place.

Good-Bye Tbilisi, we will be back in 3 weeks.

On the way to Sighnaghi

After the three nights in Tbilisi it's time to explore the rest of Georgia. Our Toyota Fortuner is brought right to our hotel and after some easy paperwork and explanations we are on the road.

We drive to the hermit monastery of David Garedji. As we take the wrong road in Tbilisi, we end up on a bad track in the middle of nowhere. After driving three times between restricted military areas (“Stop! Firing Zone! Do not enter!) and border areas (”Attention! Boarder Zone! No ENTRY without special permit!"), we finally follow a local who simply ignores the above signs with the excuse “No problem”. The girls are still hesitating, but Axel and I are "relatively" confident after meeting the local and are trying to convince them. The alternative of driving for more than two hours around is also not very appealing to them. So, off we go again, always along the dirt road, hoping not to be stopped suddenly by the Azerbaijani or Georgian military. Thankfully, nothing happens, but we are relieved when we finally get back onto a normal road. Phew!

The David Gareji Monastery is a unique complex of Georgian Orthodox monasteries carved into the rock, located about 60 - 70 km southeast of Tbilisi, right on the border with Azerbaijan. It was founded in the 6th century by the monk St. David and developed into an important religious and cultural center within a few centuries. A nice place to explore. Outside we can observe a photoshoot of three colourful dressed ladies. Insta Time!!!!

Sighnaghi

Our base for tonight is Sighnaghi a charming hilltop town in Georgia’s eastern Kakheti region, best known for its wine culture, colorful Italian-style architecture, and stunning views over the Alazani Valley and the Caucasus Mountains. Often called the “City of Love”, it’s famous for its romantic atmosphere — couples can even get married there 24/7!

Founded in the 18th century, Sighnaghi was fortified with a massive defensive wall featuring 23 towers, many of which still stand today and can be explored. The cobblestone streets, pastel houses with wooden balconies, and the nearby Bodbe Monastery (resting place of St. Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia) make it a must-visit destination. We really enjoy our time here.

Today's program in Sighnaghi includes a wine tasting and dinner at "OKRO's". There's super tasty food, seven wines and a 75% chacha to digest. Everything served on a balcony with spectacular view. After the tasting we are also allowed into the wine cellar and are told how the Quevri (=amphora) wines are made. I have no idea where our exceptionally good mood this evening comes from ;-)

On the way to Telavi

After breakfast we drive to the Lagodechi Nature Reserve, which is very close to the AZ border. The park offers some great hiking opportunities.

We walk through an incredibly lush forest, which is overwhelmingly green with lots of moss and ivy. At a T-junction, we encounter two border guards carrying machine guns. They just wave us on, so we continue. However, at a registration station, we have to deal with Georgian bureaucracy or rather, a border guard who doesn't have the correct form in his folder of numerous plastic sleeves. It takes a while for a colleague to be summoned and bring the correct form. We also have to fill in our personal data in a thick white logbook.

The destination of the hike (approx. 12 km) is 'Machi Castle', which is extremely unspectacular — just a weathered wall. But the journey is the reward.

On the onward journey, we visit the Nekresi Monastery, which can be reached by a shuttle bus that struggles up the mountain.

It's one of the country’s oldest and most atmospheric religious sites. Founded in the 4th century, it grew into a major spiritual and cultural center, with surviving buildings from the 6th to 9th centuries, including a basilica, bell tower, and bishop’s palace. Its hilltop location offers stunning views over vineyards and mountains.

Kakheti Wine Region

In the afternoon we arrive at the Mosmieri winery, where we will stay for two nights. We are the only guests. The pool looks inviting, but is not heated and it is quite chilly outside. No pool time.

Today we visit several places around the Kakheti wine region, starting with the Alawerdi Monastery, which produces and sells its own wines.

Next up is the Ikalto Monastery from the 6th century. The place has an enchanted aura: old walls, meadows with colorful flowers, weathered tombs and amphorae.

The market in Telawi is a classic farmers' market. The market halls sell fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices, oils, brooms, socks, hats, ..... Just what you need.

In the evening we have another wine tasting. The white Qvevri wines are yellow, called “amber” and taste....let's say interesting. We are also shown the production at Mosmieri. They make classical Qvevri wines but also European style wines in steel tanks.

Georgian Qvevri wines are among the oldest styles of winemaking in the world, with a history going back over 8,000 years. These wines are made in Qvevri — large, egg-shaped clay vessels buried underground, used for fermenting and aging wine in a natural, stable environment. This treatment makes them taste quite special, compared to classical European wines.

What Makes Qvevri Wine Unique?

Natural fermentation: Grapes (including skins, seeds, and sometimes stems) are placed into the Qvevri, where they ferment for months without additives.
Skin contact: Especially for white grapes, the extended contact with skins creates amber or “orange” wines with rich tannins and earthy flavors.
Clay aging: The porous clay allows micro-oxygenation, giving the wines a smooth, complex character — often dry, bold, and aromatic.

Qvevri wines are made from indigenous Georgian grapes, such as:

Rkatsiteli (white/amber) – crisp, structured
Mtsvane – floral and fruity
Saperavi (red) – deeply colored, full-bodied, age-worthy

In 2013, Qvevri winemaking was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list, acknowledging its cultural and historical value to humanity.

Border Crossing to Armenia

Armenia - FACTS AND FIGURES

Size: 29,743 sq. km
Population: ~3,1 million
Capital and biggest city: Yerevan, with 1.1 million inhabitants
Religion: 97% Christianity, 3% Others
Ethnic groups: 98% Armenians, 2% Others
Languages: Armenian
Currency: Dram, 1000 AMD = 2,41€ (05/2024)
Fun Fact: Armenia was the first country to adopt Christianity and Echmiadzin Cathedral it the first official church in the world

We have a long drive ahead of us today. It's raining cats and dogs all day. The cold creeps into our bones, the wetness through our shoes. The border procedure to Armenia goes smoothly but, as expected, takes some time. Our rental car has to get a certificate from customs and be fitted with additional Armenian insurance. The Armenian border official asks us lots of questions, for example about our stay in Azerbaijan, but then ends the questioning with “Welcome to Armenia!”.

Armenia makes a poorer impression than Georgia. There are many empty houses and stores and some of the streets are very battered.

We visit the UNESCO Hagphat Monastery in the pouring rain. There are also many US tourists here (perhaps to follow their Armenian roots?)

Next, we visit the Sanahin Monastery. It feels like something straight out of an Indiana Jones film.

Rainy weather but beautiful scenery on our way to Dilijan.

Dilijan

We arrive at our Hotel Ecokayan in Dilijan in the late afternoon and are immediately greeted by three dogs. The baby dog is as cute as a teddy bear. The hotel is in the middle of the forest by a babbling brook.

Today's program includes a 7.5 km hike from Lake Parz to Gosh. We park our car in Gosh and then take a cab to the starting point. We walk through sparse beech forests and beautiful flower meadows. However, some of the paths are muddy and slippery due to all the rain. Almost feels like in a military boot camp.

On the way to Yeghegnadzor

En route to Yeghegnadzor, we first stop at Lake Sevan, the largest freshwater lake in the Caucasus and the second largest mountain lake in the world, situated at an altitude of 1,900 metres. There is also a monastery here: the Sevanavank Monastery. It used to be on an island, but now it is just a peninsula. The monastery's location with the snow-capped mountains in the background is truly spectacular. A large group of Chinese tourists are busy taking selfies and taking their time. It's almost impossible to take a picture of the monastery without at least three Chinese tourists in it.

The road up to Selim Pass (2,410 m) is relatively flat, so we miss the pass and drive past it before realising our mistake and turning around.

A little later, we reach 'Orbelian's Caravanserai', which looks more like an old cowshed. The view from here is beautiful. An elderly couple are selling various items from an old car that they have set up as a stall. They are very welcoming. The man was stationed in Dresden for two years as a Soviet soldier in the early '80s and speaks some German. We buy pomegranate wine, a fridge magnet, a 'Sharon sausage' and some sweets.

Yeghegnadzor

In the afternoon, we arrive at the Green Stone Boutique Hotel, our accommodation for the next two nights. After enjoying an extensive and mouth-watering dinner, we set off again for a wine tasting session. At the Momik Wine Cube, we sample white, rosé and red Armenian wines. Not bad! Jako, the not well-behaved baby dog, also lives here.

After a siesta until 2 pm, we drive to the Areni-1 cave excavation site, where only 4–5% of the area has been investigated archaeologically. This is also the site of the Armenian cradle of wine, where the entire wine production process was discovered for the first time, in contrast to similar finds in other countries. The production site is about 6,000 years old. Our guide talks non-stop — does she even need air?

Next, we're heading to the Norawank Monastery, which is located at the end of the Amaghu Valley. The monastery complex is situated in a stunning location on the mountainside. It's particularly stunning in the late afternoon sun. It's a popular tourist destination, so it's no secret anymore.

On the way to Yerevan

Today, we drive to Yerevan, stopping several times en route. Once again, Axel is out of the ordinary. This time, it's with Mt. Ararat in the background.

The Chor Virap Monastery is a popular place to take photos. It is the cradle of Christianity in Armenia. It is much more photogenic from the outside than the inside, partly due to the spectacular backdrop of Ararat, which towers at 5,137 metres. This is the highest mountain in Turkey, and it is said that Noah's Ark was stranded here.

The lifelike pictures of the deceased in the adjoining cemetery are particularly striking although kinda weird . Some of them look quite martial.

The Garni Temple, which features 24 Ionic columns, is located near Yerevan. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1679 and was not rebuilt until 1969–75. Some of the original stones could not be allocated and can now be seen lying on the access road.

The Geghard Monastery, with rooms partly carved into the rock, is located not far away in the Azat gorge. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000.

Yerevan

After yesterday's long day with many stops, Axel and I were too tired to join the ladies on a city tour after checking in at our charming Hotel Silk Road.

Our three-hour city tour of Yerevan starts at 9.30am today, with our guide. Veronika impresses us with her in-depth knowledge of the country, its people, history, buildings and places. – simply everything. She also criticises the Bolsheviks, the Armenian government and Azerbaijan for the fact that the 'actually' great Armenia has shrunk so much. Nagorno-Karabakh and Mount Ararat naturally belong to Armenia. It's interesting to listen to her view. Of course there are also different views. Our young Armenian hotel receptionist just hopes that, now the latest territorial disputes over Nagorno-Karabakh seem to be coming to an end, a more prosperous and peaceful period with open borders and trade to Turkey and Azerbaijan will be possible.

We then spend the rest of the day visiting more places and strolling around the city at our own pace. Founded in 782 BCE, Yerevan is one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities, at over 2,800 years old. While interesting, Yerevan pales in comparison to Baku, and especially to Tbilisi. The fusion of neoclassical architecture with Soviet modernism and brutalism doesn't look very appealing to me, and the city somehow doesn't feel very historic either. In my opinion, one day is enough here.

In the morning we visit Tsitszernakaberd, the memorial complex commemorating the victims of the Armenian genocide in 1915.

Gyumri

Our destination for today is Gyumri, the second largest, but much smaller - almost village-like town in Armenia.

A severe earthquake hit the city in 1988, which is now being developed as a tourist destination. At the Berlin Art Hotel, our accommodation, there is even a Berlin Buddy Bear.

At 5 p.m., we are invited to a 'Culinary Evening' hosted by Tatev and her mother, organised by Kaukasus Reisen. The food is laid out as though an extra ten people are coming to visit, and it is all absolutely delicious. It's a fabulous evening full of fun and laughter.

From Gyumri to Achalziche

We leave Gyumri and reach the border with Georgia after about one hour. The procedure goes quite smoothly. The Georgian border guard proudly tries out his German on us.

We drive through really beautiful, green countryside to the hilltop town of Vardzia. It was built in the 12th century under Queen Tamar, one of Georgia's most important rulers, as a monastery and fortress carved into the rock of Erusheti Mountain. Over 600 rooms, including churches, living quarters, wine cellars and libraries, were carved directly into the rock. The main church is famous for its medieval frescoes, including a rare portrait of Queen Tamar.

Originally, the complex consisted of up to 13 levels with an ingenious water and tunnel system. A severe earthquake in the 13th century destroyed large parts - many of the caves are now open. Quite a fascinating place to explore.

Achalziche

When we arrive in Achalziche, we find that the door to the Hotel Almi is locked. Fortunately, the situation is resolved quickly with a call to Kaukasus Travel. The owner has forgotten about our booking because we made it so early. After few minutes he shows up. All rooms are free and ready.

Before dinner, we visit the impressive 9th-century Rabati fortress. The view of the city and the surrounding area from the top is beautiful.

On the way to Batumi

In the morning, we will leave Achalziche for the long drive to Batumi. Although there are fancy ski resorts in the mountains, there are only bad dirt roads for miles around them. At least the roads are under construction.

There is still snow piled up to a height of almost two metres next to the road at the Goderdzi ski resort.

Batumi

The traffic in Batumiis absolutely crazy, so I'm glad when we finally arrive at the Hotel London. After a long search, I find a parking space — not an easy feat in the city centre. The receptionist helps me pay for parking online, as I would have completely missed it, due to missing signs on the road.

Batumi, Georgia’s vibrant port city on the Black Sea coast, is known for its eclectic and experimental architecture that sets it apart from other cities in the Caucasus. A blend of old-world charm and ultramodern flair, Batumi is where Belle Époque buildings meet futuristic skyscrapers.

We love strolling around the city. There is so much to see and explore. The weather and temperature are also just perfect. Batumi is definitely an unexpected delight.

On the way to Mestia

After spending two nights in Batumi, we are now heading out of the city and up into the mountains. The road is mostly fine, but very winding.

Mestia

The Hotel Lamish in Mestia is one of over 500 hotels, we learn from our German host. It's hard to believe for such a small village, but over 3,000 tourists come here every day in summer, so the place is no longer a secret.

Blood feuds still exist in Svaneti, which is why some houses fall into disrepair as the owners are 'banished' and only later generations are permitted to return.

The impressive medieval fortified towers, known as the Svan Towers (or "Koshki" in Georgien), were built in Svaneti between the 9th and 13th centuries. Today, they are among the most striking symbols of Georgian highland architecture and are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site encompassing the villages of Mestia and Ushguli.

There seems to be a festival in the village today. Numerous dance groups are performing. Especially the Khorumi is really spectacular. It's a traditional Georgian war dance that originated in the western regions of Adjara and Svaneti. Performed exclusively by men, it tells the story of scouting, battle preparation, and heroic combat through powerful, synchronized movements. Dancers wear traditional outfits and often don black sheepskin hats, symbolizing strength and bravery. The choreography shifts from stealthy, slow steps to explosive, dramatic motions, reflecting the rhythm of war. Khorumi is one of Georgia’s most iconic dances, celebrating courage, discipline, and unity.

The modern and well-equipped Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography is well worth a visit.

Today, we are going out on a day trip to Ushguli. We are travelling the 46 kilometres along a surprisingly good road, which is often blocked in winter. In the past, it was not uncommon to spend 2–3 hours travelling, but the road seems to have been significantly improved.

Ushguli is a remote mountain village, nestled at an altitude of around 2,200 meters – making it one of the highest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe. Surrounded by dramatic peaks, including the towering Mount Shkhara (5,193 m), Ushguli is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its authentic medieval architecture and timeless atmosphere.

The weather is very mixed today. The clouds are low and it's mostly raining, with hail occasionally mixed in. Just as we set off on our way back, the sun comes out and bathes the landscape in wonderful light for a few moments.

Today we hike to the “Chalaadi Glacier”. We walk through birch and fir forests, past ferns and cowslips. A nice half day hike. The Russian border is only few kilometres away.

Before setting off for Kutaisi, we visit one of the Svan towers. The first floor is full of stuffed animals and old objects. The owner gives us a brief overview of the museum with one-word English explanations. Quite amusing.

"warm" - stone slab as heating"
"Baby" - cradle
"Original" - the old wooden door
"Boom" - embrasures

Despite the early hour, we are offered some high-proof chacha. We climb five steep ladders to the top until we can look out of the skylight next to the waving Georgian flag and take in the surroundings.

On the way to Kutaisi

En route to Kutaisi, we share the road with cows, horses, pigs, goats and dogs. We stop at a stream surrounded by beautiful ferns. The only thing missing is a dinosaur coming around the corner.

Not far from Kutaisi, we hear wailing sirens and an announcement accompanied by a blue light, like a US police car. We pull over, and the policeman explains the problem to us in Georgian. Needless to say, we don't understand a word. He introduces himself and his bodycam again, then draws on the dirty rear window to show us that we have run a stop sign at a level crossing. There is also video evidence, of course. There's nothing to argue about. We want to pay the reasonable fine of 100 GEL straight away, but the polite and professional police officer refuses, explaining with further drawings and a few words of broken English that we have to pay at a special bank terminal. We are given a long slip with a barcode and are then released.

Kutaisi

Kutaisi, one of Georgia’s oldest cities, blends ancient history with relaxed charm. The majestic Bagrati Cathedral reminds us why this city once rivaled Tbilisi. At night, the Rioni River glows beneath softly lit bridges. Our Hotel Magnolia is next to the river.

In the morning, we visit the Prometheus Cave, which was discovered in 1984. Six of its 22 halls can be explored with a guide (and numerous other tourists). You can get married in the 'Hall of Love' for 100 GEL. There is also the option of a one-hour lung therapy session in the special cave air, which is always 14 degrees Celsius.

After a lunch break back in Kutaisi, we visit the Gelati Monastery in the afternoon.

The Monastery, is one of the country’s most important spiritual and cultural landmarks, founded in 1106 by King David IV "the Builder". It*s famous for its Bzyantine-style mosaics, richly decorated frescos and impressive medieval architecture. It also serves as a burial site of some important saints.

Last stop for today is the Motsameta Monastery, dramatically perched on a cliff above the Rioni River, just a few kilometres from Kutaisi. Surrounded by forested hills and steep gorges, it offers a beautiful serene and scenic settings in Georgia.

Having just paid the fine for the railroad tracks we crossed without stopping, we are stopped again by the police. This time they tell us, that we drove over a solid street marking, which is forbidden.

Well, this time it's only a few euros and we already know the payment machine. Axel is angry, the rest of us takes it in good humor.

We make our way to Gori, the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, over good roads that the Chinese (“Chinese State Construction”) are hard at work building. We visit the local museum dedicated to him.

Very little is translated into English, almost all the information is only available in Georgian and Russian. Filming is prohibited, photography is permitted. We find the museum very interesting, but are also a little shocked by the glorification of one of the greatest despots of the 20th century. Only a very small, inconspicuous room downstairs addresses some of his many atrocities.

Arteni

Today, we are staying in Arteni at the guest house of Nika Vacheishvili, which is located in an idyllic setting surrounded by fruit trees, mountains, and vineyards. We enjoy a delicious meal accompanied by homemade wine. The matriarch of the household ensures that our table never runs out of schnaps.

It's a shame that we have to leave tomorrow — we would have liked to stay for another two or three days.

On the way to Stepantsminda

Today, we take the motorway east almost to Tbilisi, before heading north on the Georgian Military Highway through the Greater Caucasus to Stepantsminda, which sits at an altitude of 1,700 metres.

En route, we stop at the historic Ananuri fortress, which has two churches and offers beautiful views of a reservoir.

Another stop is the quite weird looking Orbeliani Sulkhan-Saba Monument (1658 – 1725). He was a Georgian writer, scientist and politician and fought for the liberation of Georgia from foreign enslavement.

Final stop on the way is the Gudauri Monument (officially the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument). Built in 1983, its vibrant mural mosaic tells a surreal story of unity between two nations, even as the winds of history swirl. The views alone made it worth the stop. Snow-capped peaks, wild horses, and rolling dramatic clouds — it feels like standing on the edge of the world. It’s not just a monument, it’s a moment. What a stunning location.

Stepantsminda

Stepantsminda, nestled at the foot of Mount Kazbek (5.047m), is a breathtaking mountain town where the Georgian wilderness feels truly raw and alive. The iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, perched high above the valley, is a must-see — especially at sunrise, when golden light bathes the peaks. It's a perfect base for adventure or quiet reflection in the Caucasus.

From Stepantsminda, we take the popular day trip to Juta. En route, we visit the impressive 'Gigantic Sculptures of Merab Phiranishvili', which are embedded in the mountain scenery and remind me of the famous Nemrut Dagi UNESCO site in Turkey, which has been on my bucket list for a long time.

The gravel road to Juta (2,200 m) is closed a few kilometres beforehand due to roadworks. We park the car behind some construction machinery and walk the remaining 2.5 kilometres to the small, idyllic village. It is only later that we realise the locals don't care about the closure and simply drive through. There is still plenty of road left. Damn! We should have known that beforehand!

While Melanie and Axel want to relax in the village, Steffi and I, full of energy, decide to take the popular hiking trail up to Chaukhi Lake. However, after the first steep incline, we decide that the hammocks, stunning views and iced coffees at the Fifth Season hut are too tempting to ignore and warrant a longer stop. So we skip the rest of the hike.

Our “Khinkali cooking course” starts at 15:00 with Maja at the “Kargo Arabuli B&B", which is difficult to find without signs. Many of the rather dilapidated buildings in the village can only be reached on foot. In the end, we “only” learn how to fold the dumplings (today only with meat, but they are also available with mushrooms, cheese and potatoes) to give them their typical shape. You eat them with your hand and should first drink the juice from the pocket before eating the rest. Of course there is not only “Khinkali”, Maja also serves 2 salads, bread, khachapuri, chacha and Turkish coffee.

Maja is an English and Russian teacher (but no longer works at the school). Her husband is a German teacher. In the summer they “manage” their guest house with 4 rooms. The house is her husband's parents' house and her parents now live with Maja and her husband in Tbilisi for the rest of the year. Maja believes that Georgia belongs in the EU, especially as protection against Russia, which is “very, very close here!”. We enjoy our afternoon stay with Maja.

The weather is very changeable today, as we experience on our way back to the car.

Stopover in Mtskheta

From our last vacation stop, Stepantsminda, we head back to Tblisi. Once again, truck convoys roll in and out of Russia.

Shortly before Tbilisi, we make a stop in Mtskheta, the old capital. However, it is anything but beautiful and full of tourists. You can't see the old buildings due to all the souvenir stalls and carpet & scarf sellers.

Back in Tbilisi

In Tbilisi, we check back into the Sole Palace Hotel. When we return the rental car at the hotel (great service), a digital check is made to see if there are any traffic offences against us. Fortunately not! The fact that we have paid our two parking tickets is immediately visible. Germany can take a leaf out of their book when it comes to digitalisation.

We walk around the beautiful city one last time, enjoying a final glass of wine in a wine bar before strolling back to our hotel and taking in the night-time atmosphere. Goodbye, Tbilisi!

Flight home

We are picked up from the hotel in the morning and taken to the airport for our flight home. We leave with fabulous memories of the last four weeks.

Travel Movie - Azerbaijan

Want more impression, then have a look at the videos from trip, done by Melanie A.

Travel Movie from Georgia

Travel Movie from Armenia

Final verdict

What a fabulous trip and what a fabulous region! There's so much to see and explore, including friendly people and delicious food. And all at quite a reasonable price and without over tourism yet. In my opinion, it's one of the hottest travel destinations in the world, right now.

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