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Indonesia - Raja Ampat and Sulawesi

Part 1 - Five weeks through Raja Ampat, Sulawesi, Flores and Bali - April/Mai 2023

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

February 4^th, 2024

Motivation

Indonesia is a vast country, with over 17,000 islands, a population of 255 million people, and 300 spoken languages. It stretches over 5,000 km from the western tip of Sumatra to the eastern tip of Papua. After visiting Java, Bali, and Lombok, it became clear that there is still much more to explore in this country. Flores, with its Komodo Dragons, and Sulawesi, with the unique burial culture of the Toraja, have been on my bucket list for decades. I added Raja Ampat just a few years ago. I stumbled upon a fascinating travel blog promoting it as one of the last diving paradises with hugely intact reefs and the highest biodiversity worldwide. Although Bali is facing severe overtourism, I still wanted to visit it again, at least for a few days. Especially the green, lush Ubud area, which I loved so much during my first visit.

It was evident that this could not be accommodated in a two or three week itinerary, so I opted for a more comfortable five weeks.

Facts and Figures

Size: 1,904,600 sq. km
Population: 255 million
Capital and biggest city: Jakarta, with 10.5 million inhabitants
Language: Bahia Indonesia, English works mostly in touristic places
Currency: Indonesian Rupie, 100.000 IDR = 6,15€ (04/2023)

Itinerary

With such a large country, it was clear that I would have to include some flights to visit the places I had in mind. It took me a while to work out the best sequence with the smartest flight connections, but in the end I had an itinerary that worked well and I would do the same again. As local flights can be unreliable, it's good to include some buffer days in the itinerary to catch up. In my case, I had to leave out two relax days in Maumere, but still managed to do all the highlights of the trip. Accommodation I booked in advance to get the high ratings once and none of them were a disappointment, all highly recommended for their price range. Turtles Homestay, Ne Pakku Homestay and Raditya Villa were the most atmospheric and my personal favourites.

Raja Ampat (14 days)

8d - Kri Island - Turtles Homestay
2d - Rufas Island - Lagoon Homestay
3d - Wasai - PapuaArts Alternative Stay

Sulawesi (6 days)

2d - RammangRammang - Nasrul House Homestay
4d - Toraja Land - Ne Pakku Homestay

Flores (9 days)

2d - Maumere - Coconut Garden Beach Resort - I had to skip due to a flight cancelation
1d - Kelimutu Vulcano - Santiago Bed and Breakfast
3d - Bajawa - Bajawa-Roo Hotel
1d - Labuan Bajo - G-Rima Home Stay
2.5d - Komodo Boad Tour

Bali (7 days)

6d - Ubud - Raditya Villa Ubud
1d - Sekunpul - Sugin Gede Homestay

36 hours travel time to paradise

There might be faster ways to paradise but at least to Raja Ampat, the divers heaven, that was the shortest I could organise. The trip to paradise starts with a surprise. A queue of people, more than 150 meter long, is waiting for entrance. What the f….. hell is going on here. The security control for paradise seems to be very serious nowadays or is the staff maybe on strike? However - "Welcome at Frankfurt Airport - paradise even feels better, when you have gone through hell first" comes to my mind for a new airport mission statement. I’m lucky enough that for my departure gate another security area seems to be responsible. Waiting time is just 40 minutes, a no brainer on the way to paradise and……aehmmm…. the only option anyway for me.

The flight to paradise takes off on time, but my seat mates seem to have a different paradise in mind from mine, at least judging by their serious walking boots. In fact, they are on their way to Nepal - trekking paradise. We part ways in Doha, where I have to catch my flight to Jakarta. The huge indoor rainforest area at Doha airport, complete with birdsong, catches my attention. Paradise already? After a closer look I decide, no FAKE, but well done.

The flight to Jakarta is only 20% full, with entire rows empty. Great, very comfortable, paradise is definitely getting closer. My neighbour in the row catches my attention when she appears with two huge flippers. Soon we are chatting and are surprised to find out that we are both on our way to Raja Ampat. She is from South Africa and her paradise is a free diver live aboard trip. Not bad. Immigration in Jakarta is smooth as butter and takes only two minutes with my visa. My luggage also appears after a few minutes. I had already done the customs declaration online at home and received a barcode, which now just needs to be scanned. The airport is modern and well signposted, and I don't even have to queue for check-in or security for my domestic flight. Hey FRANKFURT airport, I hope you are reading this!

The flight to Sorong is surprisingly full with westerners, damn paradise is no secret anymore. The spectacular sunrise I experience while approaching the airport shows why.

Raja Ampat

My comment that taxi transfers must be free in paradise doesn't work with my driver. He wants 150k IDR, but we settle for 100k IDR, the usual fare to the port. The two hour ferry to Wasai is 125k IDR economy, VIP is much more and comes with freezing air conditioning and karaoke. So VIP go to hell, but I go to economy.

The entrance fee to paradise is 300k IDR + 700k IDR for the conservation of the marine park and is collected in a small, rather hidden booth, which I find following some other more experienced paradise seekers. Come on guys, even paradise could use some signs. From there, a pre-arranged boat from my host family on Kri Island is already waiting for another 700k IDR. Getting to paradise is not cheap, but at least I can share the trip with a couple. 30 minutes later, a long journey finally ends at Turtle Homestay in a simple but cosy wooden bungalow right by the sea. Yeahhh, this feels like paradise, unfortunately the weather is overcast, hot and humid and feels more like hell at the moment. Well, maybe even paradise needs a bit of acclimatisation. Hm, the new mission statement of Frankfurt Airport comes to mind again.

Kri Island

Kri is a small, narrow, jungle-covered island and one of the most popular places in Raja Ampat, probably due to the many excellent dive sites around it and its proximity to the main town and hub of Wasai on Waigeo.

There are several homestays and dive resorts around Kri. After some research, I decided to stay at Turtles Homestay because of all the positive reviews. I am not disappointed. The bungalows are simple but very clean and have their own bathroom, which is rather unusual. The mattress is comfortable and a mosquito net ensures a good night's sleep with the sound of the waves just a few metres away. My favourite place is the veranda with the comfortable hammock and deck chair. The food is also delicious and shared with the other guests in the main hut. Rufus runs the place when the owner Nelly is away and is always available for a chat or if help is needed. The other staff are rarely seen and tend to stay in the background.

My daily routine for the next few days, apart from diving, is to hang around, snorkel at the beautiful house reef or have a chat with the other guests. As most of the guests stay for several days, it almost feels like a small family.

Walking along the beautiful beach is only possible at low or mid tide. At high tide the water covers the beach almost completely. There is a path to the other side of the island where Soul Scuba and a few more homestays are located on a sandbank. A bit too many bungalows for my taste. The crossing is short but steep. All in all about 15 minutes. Nevertheless, I'm glad about the free pick-up and return service by boat offered by Soul Scuba.

At high tide, the water comes right up to the huts.

Kayaking, snorkelling on the house reef and walking along the beach are my typical day activities, along with relaxing on the veranda, diving or joining an excursion with other guests.

As well as being a great viewpoint, the jetty is an excellent snorkelling spot with plenty of fish seeking shelter underneath.

The western tip of Kri, where Soul Scuba is located is the busiest place on the Island.

Kri - Day trips to Manta Rays and Aborek Island

I share a boat trip with some guests. Aborek is a small island with a friendly and charming village. Guesthouses are also available. The highlight is snorkelling right from the jetty with crystal clear waters teeming with life. I love this place. There is a manta ray cleaning station near the island and as we arrive we can actually see their wings flapping out of the water so close to the surface. What a fantastic experience to snorkel with these huge creatures. I've done it many times in my life but it never gets boring. They come quite close and we don't seem to disturb them at all. There is some current, so we get off the boat, drift over the cleaning station, get picked up and brought back to start again.

Colourful village and church on Pulau Mansuar, the big Island next to Kri.

Nyande Raja Ampat Homestay on Pulau Mansuar is simply stunning. A French couple I met while diving stays here and loves it. Unfortunately, it's a bit remote and they have to pay quite a bit for the daily transfer to the dive centre.

On of the few colourful sunsets during my stay. Unfortunately the cloud cover was mostly too thick.

Kri - Diving with Soul Scuba Divers

Raja Ampat is known for having the highest underwater biodiversity on earth. There are various options for diving, including liveaboard, which is the most expensive but also the best option for ultimate diving. Dive resorts combine accommodation with a dive base on site and are generally more upmarket. Independent dive bases offer the freedom to choose accommodation. After some research my decision fell on Soul Scuba, which seemed to be the perfect mix of professionalism, reasonable dive prices and the flexibility to choose a homestay on the island.

Luckily, I had made prior arrangements with them as they are fully booked upon my arrival and have to turn away divers who try to book on site.

The team is highly professional, and although the equipment is not brand new, it is in good condition. The two specialised dive boats are comfortable enough, and all the staff make a concerted effort to ensure that the diving experience is as enjoyable as possible. I particularly appreciate that the bottles and BCDs are always prepared on the boat with name tags, and that the staff takes care of all the equipment after diving.

Overall, I complete 11 dives, one refresher and 2 morning dives over the next 5 days. The afternoons are for relaxing, I decide.

During my time here we visit several dive sites, including a full day trip to Piaynemo with some extra sightseeing around the lagoon. I enjoy all the dive sites with lots of colourful fish, huge schools of fish, nudibranches, occasional black and white tip sharks and some strange creatures like the Wobeggong shark or the pygmy seahorse, which is only about 1cm long. Additionally, I saw many mantas during a snorkelling trip organised by the homestay. The corals appeared healthy, colourful, and diverse. My favourite dive sites are Blue Magic, Sardine Reef and Melissa’s Garden.

It is hard to say if Raja Ampat lives up to its reputation as one of the ultimate dive places in the world. I equally enjoyed diving in Sipadan in Borneo and Palau. The often cloudy and partly rainy weather did not help to bring out the wonderful colours of the corals. However, it is still a very cool place for diving.

It is not always sunny. The warmest place is definitely underwater in these conditions.

Organising an affordable boat transfer to Rufas Island is proving more complicated than expected. Unfortunately, my hope of joining a two-tank dive trip to Piaynemo with Soul Scuba on Monday, including a drop-off at nearby Rufas Island, is not possible as they do not have a trip on that day. Turtle is offering me a transfer for 1.4 million, Lagoon Homestay is asking for 1.7 million, and Valerie, who I met the day before, is organising a sightseeing day trip that I could join for 1.5 million. I decide to take the latter option, at least it includes some additional sightseeing and boy will I be glad I did.

In the early morning, I bid farewell to Turtle Homestay. Rufus takes me to the Jetty from Soul Scuba, where the tour is scheduled to begin.

We start at 07:00 and plan to visit Manta Sandy, Aborek Island, Piaynemo, Rufas, Hidden Bay, the Passage, Kabuy Bay and Five Rocks. Our tour guide changes direction due to clouds over Piaynemo, allowing me to see all the spots I haven't visited yet before the drop off at Rufas Island. At Five Rocks, we snorkel, which is nice but not more. Kabui Bay, the Passage, and Hidden Bay are the highlights for me. They are spectacular, especially from the drone's perspective. Piaynemo is also impressive, and the drone reveals some additional cool perspectives. Finally, we snorkel at Rufas Island before I get dropped off. What a great tour today.

Piaynemo is one of the highlight sights in Raja Ampat

Rufas Island

The Lagoon is stunning, particularly when viewed from a drone. The wooden open water bungalows are rustic, with a clean and comfortable mattress on the floor. The veranda offers a gorgeous view. A local family takes care of the tourists, and they own both homestays on the island: Rufas and Lagoon, which are owned by the father and son, respectively. Anderson, whose relation to the family is unclear to me, speaks some English and takes care of the tourists' needs. The food is cooked together, and the bungalows are quite similar, although Lagoon appears slightly newer. Generally, lunch and dinner are good and sufficient, with rice, vegetables, and fish. However, breakfast is limited, with only banana fritters or chocolate cake available.

Although the location is elusive, I am surprised that half of the bungalows are unoccupied. I am sharing this little paradise with two French couples, two German couples, and a Dutch girl who arrives on the day the French leave.

Additionally, there is a new dive base on the premises with relatively new equipment. However, the owner speaks little English and only has a PADI Rescue Diver level. Having done 11 dives with Soul Scuba the previous days, I feel confident enough to give him a try as he seems to know the area well. He recommends a dive site called Galaxy, which turns out to be quite nice. We see a small barracuda tornado, nudibranchs, a lobster, a wobbeggong shark, a moray eel and much more. The cost of 550k IDR, including equipment, boat ride and private guide, is an extremely fair deal.

Overall, I enjoy the Robinson Crusoe feeling of the island. During day and night, I can snorkel inside and outside the lagoon, watch the sunset from the viewpoint, swim in the lagoon, chat with Anderson or other guests, or simply relax in the hammock. Additionally, the weather is great. The only downside is the absence of a cooling sea breeze inside the protected lagoon. However, at least I can cool off by jumping from the bungalow veranda.

Views from the drone outside and inside the lagoon. The black spot inside the lagoon is a huge dense group of fish.

View from the look out point, which can be reached by a short steep climb. Perfect to enjoy a fresh breeze and for the sunset.

Faces of Raja Ampat

After two nights, I unfortunately have to say goodbye to the little paradise and take a longboat for the two-hour ride to PapuArts Alternative Stay on Waigeo. The price of two million IDR is steep, but I don’t have a choice. Luckily, the weather is good, and the sea is calm. I cover myself against the sun, as the sea breeze is pleasant and makes it easy to forget the powerful equatorial sun.

Timon, the Belgian owner of PapuArts Alternative Stay, welcomes me at his jetty. He arrived here seven years ago with his Papuan wife, Helga.

Compared to other homestays I've stayed in, this one has a unique twist. The garden is beautiful, lush, diverse, and well-maintained, as is the entire property. Although the rooms are on the smaller side, they are nicely decorated both inside and outside. The common area is comfortable, and the shared bathrooms and toilets are spotless. The food is the best I had so far in Raja Ampat, very tasty. Snorkelling at the house reef is great, too. However, the single occupancy price is almost double that of the other guesthouses I stayed in, which I believe is too high even considering the additional amenities compared to Turtles and Lagoon Homestay. Despite this, I thoroughly enjoyed my stay for the three nights.

There is only one other guest and I get the open water room I was hoping for. Graham, who is originally from England but now lives in Bali, operates liveaboard dive cruises. He appears to be an experienced diver who is always seeking out new dive sites.

We decide to combine the Bird of Paradise and Kalibiru Blue River Tour offered by the homestay. The cost of 140€ per person is not cheap, but it is the main reason why I wanted to come here.

A short hefty rain shower in the tropics.

Saporkren Village, a short stroll away from the homestay, is clean, colourful, and astonishingly tidy. The government spent a lot of money during Covid to improve it. It's good fun to watch the kids playing at the jetty and catching surprisingly big fish.

At 4:30, our driver is already waiting for us, and we set off in the dark to the Warkesi Forest Park, which is located near the airport. Upon arrival, a guide escorts us on a hike that takes about 20 minutes to reach a three-level hide in the jungle. The hike is mostly uphill, and in this warm, highly humid climate, sweat starts dripping from my forehead soon after we start.

Upon reaching the hide, we wait on the upper level for the sunrise and some bird activity. In the meantime, a lady joins us. According to the guide, a group of 42 people once filled up all levels of the hide. As there are only three of us, we have the luxury of choosing the best views. In front of us lies a clearing, and in two trees, the branches have been pruned for a better view. It is precisely in these spots that three Red Birds of Paradise appear. Although they are about 30m away, I manage to capture some halfway decent shots of these beautiful birds using my 300mm lens and an extender. The Wilson's Bird of Paradise is even more beautiful than the Red BoP. Unlike the Red BoP, the Wilson's BoP is best observed on the ground where the male prepares and clears the area for his dance to impress the females. Unfortunately for the little beauty, no females appeare today to witness his efforts. Despite this, we still appreciate his preparation.

Next, we drive for 45 minutes through lush green vegetation on a well-maintained road to Wasambin. From there, a longboat with two guides takes us to the other side of the lagoon. A 15-minute hike through the jungle leads to the Blue River, which appears as stunning as it does in the pictures. The clear blue colour of the river, running through the lush green jungle vegetation, looks almost surreal. I have never seen anything like it before. No one else is present, and fortunately, the area is completely clean. After taking a few pictures, I can't wait to dive into the fresh water. How amazing is that? After a long and refreshing swim, I take some more pictures before two smaller groups finally arrive. We then slowly leave the area and head back to the boat.

Before we return, we take a leisurely walk around the charming village. Especially the kids seem to have a lot of fun.

On the way back to the guesthouse, our driver stops at a dragonfruit farm. The plant resembles a cactus. We try some of the freshly picked and ripe fruits, which taste much better than the ones we can buy in Europe. Although I was never a fan of dragonfruit, these taste great.

The turtle church in Wasai is another short stop on the way back. Quite an unique building.

My final sunset in Raja Ampat.

A long transfer day awaits me. I leave at 08:00 in order to catch the ferry back to Sorong at 09:00, which almost departs on time. The prearranged taxi is already waiting at the pier. Although there is a flight at my scheduled time to Makassar, it has a different flight number, so I need to confirm with the airline office. I'm informed that the flights have been changed, but I can take the new one. Unfortunately, others on their way to Bali are not as fortunate, as their flight has been cancelled. One couple decides to fly to Bali via Makassar and Jakarta. However, they are likely to miss their flight to Jakarta as our flight to Makassar is an hour late. I had heard that Lion Group flights can be quite unpredictable. Unfortunately, for most connections, they are the only option.

Sulawesi

Ramang Ramang

I take a taxi from the airport to Ramang Ramang for 250k IDR. Although the driver initially asks for 350k, Nasrul, my host, has prepared me to pay no more than 250k. It is always a good idea to check prices beforehand. It's already dark when I arrive. Nasrul welcomes me with a big grin on his face. The homestay is quite simple, but with a comfortable bed and even a fan, hurrahhh. The bathroom facilities consist of a traditional squat toilet and large buckets of water for showering. The floor is always wet due to the dual use of the water for cleaning. Although simple, these facilities are sufficient and hygienic.

RammangRammang is one of the largest karst areas in the world, reminiscent of Krabi in Thailand and Ninh Bin in Vietnam, also known as the 'dry Halong Bay'. It's not exactly a secret, but despite its beauty and easy access from Makassar, tourism development in the area has been surprisingly slow.

Nasrul also works as a guide, so I book him to show me around the area. We start early this morning, hoping to catch the sunrise at Kampoeng Village. To reach there, we have to take a boat. Although the sky stays grey, the location of the small village, surrounded by karst mountains, is spectacular. Throughout the day Nasrul shows me around the area and we visit various sites including a stone garden, a stone labyrinth and in the evening a pretty cool café overlooking the sunset. A really enjoyable day with him even despite a hefty rain shower between.

In the night Nasrul brings me perfectly timed to the bus stop where the night bus coming from Makassar picks me up at 22:00. The organised sleeper beds are real flat beds, only the design of the bedsheet is…..aehhhh….. kinda questionable. Although the bus ride is a bit bumpy I can sleep surprisingly well and even are informed in time to get ready for my drop off in Toraja, where the taxi to Ne Pakku Homestay is already waiting. It’s only 05:00 when I arrive and Meyske the owner opens still drowsy.

Toraja

What makes Toraja special is the fascinating burial sites and the unique funeral ceremonies. It is no secret that the people of Toraja bury their deceased in one of the probably most unique ways in the world. Unlike most cultures, the dead are not buried deep in the ground but are instead placed high inside rocky cliffs, in caves or even inside carved holes in huge boulders. These burial sites are also decorated with grave doors enhanced by beautiful traditional carvings, their traditional wooden coffins called ‘erong’s and life-sized wooden puppets called ‘Tau-tau’ which are the effigies of the deceased.

The tradition to place the dead on rocks follows the ancient teaching of the Torajan people, living in the highlands of South Sulawesi, who simply call this “Alok ta’ dolo” or the “belief of the ancient people”. The fact that this s still practiced today in modern times proves that ancient traditions are still pretty much kept alive. This tradition of the “Alok” community believes that the sky represents their father while the earth is their mother. Thus, as symbol of preserving the earth’s purity as “the mother”, the people of Toraja do not bury their dead in the ground.

Occasionally, an accommodation feels exceptional, creating a home away from home atmosphere. Ne Pakku is one of these places, not only due to its cozy interior, which is perfect for socialising with other travellers, but also because of the warm and welcoming feeling that Meyske and her family provide. I truly enjoyed my stay at this wonderful place.

Meyske also works as a guide. Over the next two days, I explore the area and the Torajan culture with her and two Dutch couples. Not only do we see many sites and gain a lot of information, but Meyske also follows a captivating storyline. She delivers the information with passion, and we have a lot of fun together.

We begin with Pala Tokke, a hanging coffin burial site that belongs to Meyske's family. Here we learn about the five different burial methods, which were primarily designed to protect the deceased from theft and animal predation.

In a cliff hanging coffin
In a stone grave
In a modern looking house
In a tree (only toothless babies, but not practised anymore)

Beside the last one all ways are still common.

Lempang Tonga Riu is an impressive round boulder with stone graves. It is still actively used, as evidenced by a team digging a new cavern by hand.

Around Batuumonga we stop for the beautiful rice terraces and lunch.

This is a stone arena used in burial ceremonies for the high class. Only they can afford to sacrifice the minimum of 24 water buffaloes for a stone.

Lombok Parinding is a mystical burial site located on a cliff that could easily be used as a setting for an Indiana Jones or Tomb Raider movie scene. It's will become my favourite burial site in Toraja.

In an original Tongian House, we can observe three mummies and learn that mummification is used until the official burial takes place. The waiting period before the burial can be due to various reasons, such as a lack of sufficient funds to organize the funeral or waiting for all family members to gather. During this time, the deceased are considered to be in a state of illness and are believed to still be living among the family.

In the past, preservation was achieved using herbs. Later, bodies were tightly wrapped in fabric. Nowadays, formaldehyde is the most common method, involving the injection of four to five litres using needles. Unlike in ancient Egypt, all organs are left in the body.

The following day, we learn more about water buffalo when we visit a place that is specialized in albino buffalo. According to Alok, the deceased are accompanied by seven types of buffalo with different useful characteristics on the way back to heaven. Thus, sacrificing buffalo during a funeral is a very important part of the funeral ceremony, even more so if they represent one of the characteristics.

A typical buffalo costs around €3,000, but those with special characteristics can be more expensive. An albino buffalo, for example, can cost up to €70,000. It is not uncommon to sacrifice dozens of buffalo and multiple pigs, especially for high-class funerals, making Torajan funerals quite expensive. At least pigs are often presented by relatives and friends.

With all the pre-information from Meykse, we are now prepared to attend a funeral, which typically lasts for four days.

Preparing - the coffin is carried around the village and put on display, guests arrive
More guests arrive, handing over of presents
Sacrificing of the water buffalo and pigs
The burial itself

We officially attend the first day of the funeral, but apart from the funeral itself, everything seems to be a bit of a mixed bag. However, this allowed us to gain a better overview. Additionally, one buffalo and many pigs are sacrificed. To be honest, not easy to watch for the faint-hearted. Overall, it's quite an intense experience. The crowd, including us, is seated on huge bamboo platforms. We get coffee, tea, cake, and later palm wine offered. We also try the typical bamboo steamed pork, which is ..... aehhhhh.... shall we say challenging. I tasted it, but in the end I passed.

After the funeral we visit Suaya, a rock burial site, to see the effigies of the deceased, known as tau tau puppets.

The next site we visit is a tree that was used as a grave for toothless babies. They were buried in this way to watch over the people as pure angels until they were old enough to enter heaven. This practice is now abandoned.

Finally, Meyske invites us to visit her grandmother who passed away a few weeks ago and is now being well-preserved with formaldehyde just below my sleeping room for the funeral. I am surprised by the good preservation, and there is not even a faint smell.

Overall, the tour provides excellent and practical insights into Toraja culture. I highly recommend taking a tour, especially with Meyske.

Over the next few days, I explore the area by scooter, taking a day off as my stomach dictates. The northern mountain area is home to charming villages and stunning rice terraces. However, the roads - or, more accurately, the steep stone and mud paths - proved to be quite challenging on a scooter.

Objek Wisata Palawa another scenic village.

Rantepao Market

A house inauguration is the second most important ceremony in Toraja and I'm invited to join one from Meyskes relatives. A priest leads the ceremony and many pigs are slaughtered afterwards but no buffalo. Again an intense experience.

Dramatic blue rainclouds are gathering over the rice fields.

I also visit the more touristy sites that Meyske skipped, as they are easy to reach and explore. Londa offers a beautiful cave burial site…

…Kete Kesu has the most photogenic cliff hanging coffins…

…and Lemo the most photogenic tau taus.

A night bus with sleeper beds takes me comfortably to the airport in Makassar. Upon arrival at 4:00, it is too early to check in for my 11:30 flight. After two days of cancellations by WingAir, which caused me to cancel my stay in Maumere on Flores, I am nervous today. Fortunately, everything is working well. The small plane is punctual, and Udin from Santiago Homestay in Moni is already waiting for me at the airport in Maumere when I arrive.

Proceed with Indonesia (Part2) - Flores & Bali

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