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Ghana, Togo, Benin - The Voodoo Trail

Twelve days of exploring in January 2019

By Beyond All Maps - Portraits of our Planet by Thorsten Mehret

December 8^th, 2019

Motivation

Every four to five years it’s time for a men’s tour with my friend Marcus. In general, we choose destinations our ladies are not so interested in, in order to avoid trouble at home ;-) Our last trip had been to Ethiopia, and as we both hadn’t been to West Africa, it was a solid idea that came up right after that last trip. Of course, there are a bunch of countries in the region, however considering the security situation and as extra goody an interesting voodoo culture, Ghana, Togo and Benin seemed to be a natural choice for us.

January seems to be the perfect choice for the region: dry, not too hot and on top a famous voodoo festival in Benin. Unfortunately, Marcus can only manage two weeks, so a twelve-day tour from Diamir combining the three countries and the voodoo festival catches our attention, and we finally book it as private tour with driver and guide. As I have some holiday left I, decide after some research of potential flight connections to combine our tour with a trip to Sao Tome (highly recommended) before.

Ghana

Ghana has almost 29m inhabitants. They live in a country roughly the size of Britain, from which they got independent in 1957. Accra, the capital, and Kumasi are the biggest cities. The official language is English, but additional around eighty local languages and idioms are spoken. It’s a tropical country without typical seasons but a rain and dry period instead.

Cape Coast

I start with bad luck. Already checked in and waiting for my flight with TAP from Sao Tome to Accra, the flight is delayed, information is rare and after hours of waiting, we get the information that there was an incident with birds, that the engine needs to be checked and that technicians have to fly in from Angola. The next regular flight is in two days, and it’s unclear if the plane can be repaired by tomorrow. "Shit, shit, shit", I think as I should meet Marcus today In Accra to start our trip by a drive to Cape Coast the next morning. After a chaotic hotel and transfer organisation by TAP and many hours of annoying waiting for news the next day, I finally get the relieving message that the plane will go in the afternoon. I manage to arrive late afternoon in Accra and an organised transport brings me in four hours to the Cape Coast where I finally meet Marcus and our guide. So I've lost only one day, could have been worse. Of course, as it’s tradition for us since our first trip to Central and South America back in 1996, we celebrate with a shot of Tequila, lemon and salt. A bottle of it always finds its way into our travel luggage and generally becomes handy in many occasions to break the ice with locals.

HoTel - Biriwa Beach Resort

Kakum Nationalpark

In the morning we start our trip to the Kakum Nationalpark, especially famous for it’s canopy walkway, which leads in 45 min through the dense jungle. With around 15 people in the group, we follow a ranger, who explains in an interesting way the use of some plants from soap to diverse medicine. Of course there is wildlife but don’t expect to see some in such big groups. The best chance might be early in the morning, before the crowds arrive. Our wildlife encounter is limited to some funny yellow lizards and a curious squirrel-like animal at the entrance gate.

Kinda sad to see the many trucks on the way, fully loaded with cutdown mighty old rainforest trees.

Elmina Castle

Elmina castle is one of around 40 castles built between 1482 and 1786 along the 500 km Gold Coast. Intended as fortified tradingposts for gold, ivory and other goods, they started to play an important role in slave trade to cover the growing demand in human labour from the New World. With unbelievable cruelty, around 6 m people were captured, imprisoned in the castles, sold and transferred on slavery ships to their new lives as slaves overseas. 15% didn’t survive the transfer. The castles frequently changed owners, depending which European regional power was in the lead. The Portuguese, Danish, Swedish, French, British, ... they all played a roll.

We take part in a tour with a local guide who describes with brutal soberness the situation of the slaves in the castle. Listening to his stories while standing in the dungeons or following the slaves' path to the Door of no Return gives us the creeps.

Elmina - city

A walk through the village brings us to a tug of war contest. Great to watch.

We walk along the beach, picturing the big slavery vessels outside the castle a couple of hundred years ago.

Elmina Harbour

Palm Oil

On the way to Kumasi we stop at a small palm oil cooperative. In general, palm oil is produced in huge plants on an industrial scale, but here it’s much easier to follow the processing steps. It’s interesting to learn that all parts of the palm are good for something, nothing is wasted. Palm oil has a bad reputation, as it’s often cultivated in huge pure plantations chopping down original forests to get the required space. However it gives by far the most output per sq.m compared to alternatives such as soya or canola.

Cacao

Another stop brings us to a cacao plantation. Along the road we frequently see mats in front of houses covered with cacao beans. This way, the beans are being dried before they are getting sold.

Cashews

Almost everyone knows the tasty white cashew nuts, but not many know how these nuts grow. Here we go, a single nut grows in a shell which is attached to a kind of fruit which is part of a 12-14 meter high tree. The fruit even can be eaten and I find it quite tasty. Also looks beautiful, but I guess it's hard work harvesting it.

Children we meet on our way to Kumasi.

Kejetia Market in Kumasi

A wrong road turn we immediately regret. The roads around the biggest market in West Africa are as chaotic and bustling as the market itself. We are stuck, nothing moves on, neither forward nor backward. After a while, we decide to walk to the market, which is not that far away, and hope that our driver will make his way out after some time.

We place ourselves on higher ground to get an overview and to watch the busy crowd from opposite the marked, then we dive into it and are immediately absorbed. Everything is sold here: food, clothes, tech-items, hardware and of course local medicine and fetish as well. We even find a somewhat 5 meter long snake skin. After a timeless while and just a fraction of the market, we have to return, and our guide manages to identify a good pick up point with our driver.

Ashanti Funeral

On our way to Tamale we have a chance to witness an Ashanti funeral. We are curious but also a bit hesitant. But our guide convince us, that everyone can take part and that often hundreds of people gather. The more the better. The participants dress according to tradition in red (relatives) and black. They celebrate the transition of the soul into the ancestral world, where it becomes a protective spirit for the clan.

Our guide brings us to the family where we condole. I can feel hundreds of eyes on us in that moment, but the reaction of the family shows us that our attendance is perfectly ok.

funeral billboards

It’s not uncommon to see this kind of funeral billboards in the cities and villages. This one was at a big busy roundabout, so everyone has enough time to study it thoroughly.

Fantasy coffins

The Ga people in southern Ghana belief that life continues in the next world and that ancestors are much more powerful and can influence their relatives who are still alive. Who does not want the dead person being sympathetic towards oneself in this circumstance? Fantasy coffins therefore are a way to specially show affection. Often, they symbolise the dead person’s profession. I like the camera, but wonder who is choosing the coke bottle in the background.

Kintampo Waterfalls

If you prefer to enjoy natural beauty in silence, this is definitely not your place, but fun to watch how locals enjoy their day.

Rural Village

We stop at a small village to have a look around and to learn how people store food here. In front of a hut lies a small girl under a blanket. Her face is hot but she shivers and looks seriously ill. Most probably malaria, we learn. We feel very sorry for the poor girl. We leave some money for medicine and transport to the hospital, which is two hours away. The mother gives us a smile and promises she will take her daughter to the hospital the next morning. Here, just a few dollars might make the difference between life and death, and now writing this passage I instantly hope everything worked out well for her.

On the Road

On our way we pass the black and the white Volta river. It seems to be washing day.

Togo

Togo is one of the smallest countries in Africa, 550 km long and between 50 km to 140 km wide. From 1884 to 1916, it was a German colony, from 1916 to 1960 under French control. The official language is French. Roughly 7.6m people live in the country, thereof 1.7m. in the capital Lomé.

Border Control

The main border traffic between Ghana and Togo runs on the coast. Here in the north it’s quite a relaxed procedure. Nothing reminds of a checkpoint at all.

Fire Dance

On our way to Kara we stop at a village to see a traditional fire dance, which is common in the northern parts of the country. It’s part of the local culture and typically initiated by the chief of the community for different purposes such as seeing the future of the community, when community members are sick or before the yam harvest. I always feel strange if something like this local performances are organised for tourists. Fortunately, here tourism has not yet overrun the local culture and it still feels that although it’s an additional income source for the village, they do not rely on it, are still proud to show local customs and also enjoy their own performance. That made it enjoyable for us as well.

Village of the Blacksmiths

After a while, we stop at another village. Bassar people are known as the first iron producers in the sub-Saharan region. We learn that there are still around hundred blacksmiths in the village. Every piece is made to order, mostly for building or agricultural purposes.

During the next 45 minutes, we witness how a steel bar is transformed into a blade by pure muscle power and the skill of the blacksmith. The heating up procedure, the red glowing steel and the constant hammering create an almost spiritual atmosphere.

Forming the plate, with a stone and pure muscle power.

Heating up the iron.

This lovely old woman is the grandmother of the household and very proud to still make her own pots and even selling them on the market.

On the Road Again

Koutammakou - Pays Des Batammariba

In the remote north-eastern part, close to the Benin boarder, lies Koutammakou. The scenic, mountainous area is famous for it fortress-like mud houses (called Tata Sombas), founded in the 17th century by people fleeing the slave grabbing forays of Benin’s Dahomeyan kings. It has been a World Heritage Site since 2004.

To visit the area, we have to take a local guide. Our first stop brings us to a couple of specially nice houses. Here, people do still live according to their old customs. We are informed not to give any money, as the community is supported by the entrance fees. Shortly after, we understand why. While our local guide explains the structure and use of the houses, we are constantly asked for money by the local women around. First by a faint hand signal placing themselves and their children in front of photogenic backgrounds, later very directly by following us every step. Especially one women is extremely persistent. It’s a very awkward situation and we don’t feel comfortable at all. Hesitating, we watch a dance performance, but the whole thing feels artificial in this atmosphere, not at all like the fire dance the day before.

Here, it’s very obvious that tourism is changing habits, and not to the better. We are told that even young children sometimes rather stay at home, helping making money with the tourists, instead of going to school. We wonder how much money from the entrance fee and UNESCO support really finds its way to the community.

The next stop brings us to an old holy tree. It’s hollow inside and very impressive. In less than five minutes and we are surrounded by locals trying to sell souvenirs. This happens in such a pushy atmosphere that we don’t even want to have a closer look.

During the next stop we walk along some fields, passing by some more mud houses. Here, we are greeted by some children. They are as curious about us as we are about them. The older ones are wearing school uniform. We make some fun with them and earn a lot of laughter. There seems to be a lot of wheat around in the area, but their bellies show clear signs of malnutrition. We assume, due to the very biased food mix. Poor guys.

This proud old lady shows a typical decoration, especially common in the past. In a cut whole below the mouth, a piece of white bone is placed. Just with her tongue she manages to put it in and out. Modern piercing is not that far away.

Benin

Benin, until 1975 named Dahomey and from 1975 to 1990 the People’s Republic of Benin, has a population of around 11m people. The capital is Porto Novo, but the seat of government is Cotonou, which is also the largest city. The official language is French.

Like the whole area, Dahomey played a big role in the slave trade. The coast was called the slave coast, and by 1750 the King of Dahomey was earning an estimated fortune of 250,000 pound sterling a year by selling African captives to European slave traders.

Benin is one of the few countries where Voodoo is an official religion, and Ouidah on the central coast is the spiritual center.

Tequila ceremony at the Border

Yes - this is the border checkpoint, and it’s easy to miss. No sign, no flag, no barrier, no official looking building and no officers in uniform. Instead a bench, two plastic chairs, two wooden blocks to sit on and a friendly and smiling "I assume"official who brings out a stamp and a paper notebook from a normal looking house. We decide this is the perfect situation for a Tequila ceremony together and as our invitation is accepted with another big smile, it becomes our most relaxed and funny border control ever.

Tata Sombas in Benin

The Tata Sombas stretches all the way into Benin, but here the area is no UNESCO site. Visits are organised directly by the community and a guide is obligatory. Although the Tatas are less impressive than the ones at the Togo side, the whole experience is much more relaxed, villagers not taking notice of us at all. It is equally informative and for us more enjoyable. We wonder if the UNESCO status is a good or bad idea in this case.

From our local guide, we learn about the body scarring rituals of the Somba people. They begin already when a child is two years old. The cuts to the face, stomach and back are like an identity card. The scars show which tribe a person originates from, as well as coded personal information. More marks are added over time.

Overnight in Natitingou

Said to be one of the better hotels in Natitingou, the Hotel Tata Somba is a good example that travelling here can sometimes be a nuisance. The surrounding area as well as the courtjard is beautiful, the idea of the Tata style is appealing and the staff is friendly. Then you look into the room. Air-con not working, no bulbs in the table lamps, the door to the bathroom is completely rotten and impossible to close, the toilet seat is broken and leaning beside the toilet, touching the shower appliances is resulting in an electric shock, obviously due to missing earthing. What makes us shaking the head here is not the missing comfort, but the obviously missing attitude of the management. Most of this things could be repaired without problems, they are no big issues nor would cost fortunes. But too often we have the feeling that people just don’t care.

Visiting A King

On the way to Abomey we visit another traditional village. It's quite big, with hundred of huts around and many in disrepair, obviously not used anymore. The village feels not very busy, as many people are working on the fields, we are told.

With the aid of an American NGO, a couple of nice looking guest huts were erected, but they are rarely used.

We meet the king, at least that's how he is announced. I guess in my country we would rather say mayor. He seems to be a gentle and proud man, trying to take care of his people. We asked him what he considers as the biggest challenge for him, in his role. To provide a good environment for the younger folks, he replies. Tourism he sees as a chance in this respect, but only few people come here, yet. More and more young people seek their future in the cities, but once a year the all come back to join the most important village festival. Actually the preparation for it has just started. We regret not being able to attend.

Abomey - Kings Palaces

Abomey was the capital of the Dahomey kingdom. Is was founded in the early 17th century. The last independent king was defeated by french troops in 1892. The kings palaces are a group of mud buildings. Two of them nowadays host museums. They have been UNESCO world heritage since 1985.

Abomey is also famous for its traditional handicraft.

Abomey - City

Beside the palaces, the city has not much to offer, but the bustling and colourful life in the streets is always interesting to follow.

Cotton

Cotton is one of the top three export goods of Benin.

Ganvié

Ganvié is said to be the biggest lake city in Africa, with around 20,000 inhabitants. It dates back to the 16th or 17th century. We explore the area for two hours by boat. It’s interesting to watch the lake life and the village, but here most locals don’t like to have their pictures taken and I can understand. Life is hard here, living conditions are poor and then you see daily hordes of tourists on boats taking pictures of you like on a safari. There is no interaction, and - beside the boat owners - people do not benefit from tourism.

Grand Popo - Hotel Avale Plage

Grand Popo - Vodoo Festival

We arrive early at the festival site. Slowly, more and more people arrive, including an important looking guy who is dressed like a dignitary. He enjoys his celebrity status and being asked for pictures, but as we learn the....

...really important people arrive at the end.

In the meantime, the podium and seats around have filled up, we and the crowd now waiting excitedly for the start. We have no clue what to expect.

From everywhere around, different groups arrive and gather, coming by truck, by boat from the opposite side of the lagoon, or ... .

... by foot.

Then the whole festival finally seems to start: the various voodoo priests with their entourage and loud and rhythmic drum music process in front of the podium.

In every corner, some some kind of performance is going on. As much as I understand it's all about dancing yourself into a kind of trance connecting with the spirits.

Those who need a break gather at the beach.

The dancing gets wilder and wilder, following the rhythm of the drums. We are in the middle of the crowd, feeling infected and carried away by the whole atmosphere.

A special highlight are the Zangbetos, traditional voodoo guardians of the night. When in trance, they are said to have magical abilities.

It's amazing to watch the colourful cheering and energetic crowd. Everyone has dressed up, but what amazes me the most are the different hairstyles of the women and girls.

Around four o'clock, slowly the crowd seems to make its way back home. What a fantastic day, and without doubt the highlight of the trip.

Ouidah - Sacred Forest

The next day we drive to Ouidah. It's the Voodoo capital of Benin and originally it was planned to visit the Voodoo Festival here instead of Grand Popo. But we were told that in recent years more and more tourists had been disappointed, as politicians more and more use the festival as own platform and hold endless speeches. So Grand Popo is the better choice nowadays.

We first visit the Sacred Forest. It's a highly spiritual place and the rest place of the King of Kpasse, the first King of Ouidah. The forest is dominated by huge ancient trees, accompanied by sculptures and woodcarvings, representing Voodoo deities, some with, er.... let's say protruding attributes.

Ouidah - Temple of the Python

The serpent diety Dangbé has been revered in Quidah area for centuries. The diety's ancestors, the pythons, are protected and honoured in the Temple.

Ouidah - Festival

By chance, we stumble over another festival in the city. This one is reminding us more of carnival and is fun to watch.

Musee D'Historire d'OUIdah

Ouidah was a famous and important slave trade hub. From the museum, a 4 km long road leads to the beach. This is probably the same road thousands of slaves traveled on their way to board the slaving ships. At the Tree of Forgetting, the slaves were branded according to the mark of the purchaser. The name comes from the ritual to walk slaves 9 times (women 7 times) around the tree to reinforce forgetfulness of their homes.

At the Beach

Zangbeto de GbECon

We have the chance to visit another Zangbeto performance, again very impressive. Several times, the dancing Zangbetos are turned around in order to prove that nobody is inside. What a miracle ;-)

Back in Togo - German Cemetery

Togoville - Visiting a voodoo Priest

Knife Dance

We drive ages to a small village to finally witness a knife dance. As part of, it a rooster is sacrificed and killed without touching, just by spiritual power. The drumming is very energetic, and a group is constantly dancing during the ceremony.

At the end we are asked to join the dance. We do, no pictures, but I can tell you that we and the local dancers had lots of fun.

Fetish Market in Lome

It feels like there is no dead African animal you can't buy here. Some of them look very eerie. Voodoo priest are just around the market to make a real fetish out of your purchase. For tourists, there is an entrance fee, as they are general more interested in taking pictures than buying something, as the customs at home would probably give them a hard time anyway. Fair enough, as you are free to roam around and take pictures.

Final Verdict

All in all, a fascinating but also tiring trip. Next time I would rather spend a couple of days more to include also wildlife viewing in the different parks in the area. This would not only add an extra interesting facet to the trip but also split the long driving times to a more digestible level.